Organ transplantation: how LuAZs are tuned at home

Hello! There is an old engine from Golf-2, 1986, 1.6D, 54 hp, we will install it in LuAZ. We encountered a problem: the golf flywheel (which has 125 teeth) and the clutch does not mate with the ZAZ gearbox. We looked through the Internet and advice from local craftsmen, and it turned out that the flywheel with a basket from VW can be replaced with a flywheel with a basket from Audi. After which we found a flywheel with a basket for an Audi 1.8 petrol (132 teeth), the real question is: will it fit on a Golf without any jambs? (I'll post a photo

We present a photo report on the work done:

The stock engine has been removed.

I went through the final drives.

This is the state the checkpoint was in.

I decided to install these tires from an ATV.

Comparison with the original wheel.

I bought this 1.6 diesel engine from a Volkswagen Golf 2, 1986. .

This is what the original Golf flywheel looks like.

As it turned out, the original flywheel is not suitable for installation on the LUAZ. Requires a 132 tooth flywheel from a WV Passat B2. I ordered a flywheel.

I bought an adapter plate, but as it turned out, the manufacturer of the plates made a mistake with the dimensions and the flywheel did not want to go into place. The plate has a side against which the flywheel rests with a toothed rim.

I had to work with a grinder and remove this collar.

Then things went faster, having two starters from an Audi 80 and an Audi 100 in hand, I began to mount them to the stove.

The starter can be installed in place and the flywheel can be installed. But it was not there. the starter from the Audi 80 did not want to turn the flywheel. We quickly change it to an Audi 100 and the bendix also doesn’t reach the flywheel. The output of the starter from Audi is not suitable. I had to look for a WV Passat B5.

First of all, I took up the glow plugs and, of course, it turned out that one of the most “available” ones turned out to be dead.

Replaced the generator.

Connected additional light.

The May holidays arrived, the weather was sunny and...digging, wood sawing and stone moving began. Somehow I got too lazy to drag it around with a wheelbarrow, so I made a truck.

The truck's super cross-country ability allows you to directly climb into the pit.

I went through the wiring.

Video: LuAZ's first drive with a diesel engine:

The result is a decent SUV that can handle a variety of tasks. This car also performs well off-road and helps with housework. Homemade author: Evgeniy. Nizhny Novgorod.

About installing a 1N diesel engine on LuAZ

First, let's talk about the reasons - why diesel and not something else?

1. A diesel engine does not stall if water gets on it. I had a lot of the saddest consequences when crossing water obstacles on gasoline engines that stalled at the most inopportune moment. The most striking example of this kind of trouble is a gasoline Land-Cruiser-80 that stalled on the beach. We rented this jeep when we were on vacation in the UAE. We drove along the edge of the sea on a picturesque beach. The Cruiser was revived only after half a liter of water was poured out of the distributor.

2. Diesel is very suitable for tractors, with which I strongly associate LuAZ.

3. Why 1N? Because it was already installed on LuAZ before me. It's easier to rely on someone else's positive experience, although I liked the CD-17 more.

Here's what I had then: a 1990 LuAZ 969M, which was frozen to a temperature of -47 degrees outside, and a 1N diesel, not turbocharged, removed from a car with an automatic transmission.

Probably, at that time it seemed to me a happy accident, because it was the only non-turbocharged 1N sold in the city at that time. I was happy like a child, because in those days I shied away from turbo engines like the plague, considering them very unreliable. Now I look at it differently, but more on that next time.

So, on a frosty January Sunday morning, using a blowtorch, I managed to warm up and start the 969th LuAZ, drive into a warm workshop and prepare it for execution. Finding the right parts for this task is not an easy job. I ordered the basket and flywheel for the 1N manual transmission from Vladivostok, at the same time I was searching for the necessary release lever, and ordered parts for it. The hardest part was finding the right adapter plate. I started searching for specialists who could make it back in January, but the stove itself was only made in April! Now you can just call, order and pay, but then we had to sweat!

Prepared for the installation of the basket and flywheel and stripped of all unnecessary parts, the 1N then looked like this:

When the flywheel arrived from Vladik, it turned out that the diameter of the bolts for the automatic and manual ones was different. In order for the flywheel to fit in the center, I had to order special bushings. No one in our city knew anything about the LUK clutch, so they recommended a disc from a Chevrolet Niva as “reinforced.” Bought. I also purchased a Moskvich release, with a roller bearing. This is what the 1N looked like with the flywheel installed. The clutch disc was centered with a roller:

All this time, work on dismantling the original engine from the LuAZ 969M did not stop.

The seats were removed to remove rust. To install the plastic roof, the awning was removed. Then we cut the panel between the interior and the engine bay. This could not be avoided, because on a 1N diesel engine the return pipes of the power supply system and the heater radiator are located in such a way that they just abut this panel in the LuAZ, because on the “native” cars the 1N is positioned across.

In addition, even short-term operation of the LuAZ 969M (namely, driving into a yard, driving from one place to another, driving into a garage) showed that the reverse gear was knocked out. In order to correct this deficiency, we opened the gearbox and replaced the rear gear.

In April, the long-awaited adapter plate “arrived”, I immediately began trying it on the engine. I assembled the power unit and checked the operation of the clutch fork.

So, I missed something, and I want to cover this point now before it’s too late. The adapter plate is made in such a way that standard studs from the 969 are used to mount the engine to it. I didn't know about this at first, so I cut the thread on it. Then I had to order new hairpins! It’s not for nothing that people say that a bad head gives no rest to your feet.

In addition, our starter turned out to be of the wrong design, so the adapter plate had to be “finished” with a file in the literal sense of the word, although I won’t say that there were many difficulties with this. I removed about 5mm and the starter fit. By the way, the box bell also had to be modified to install the 1N starter.

After we adjusted everything to size, the gearbox was installed in its rightful place.

To connect the wiring of LuAZ and 1N, I invited an experienced auto electrician. Understanding this pile of wires yourself is too tedious, and it would take too much time. And I couldn’t bear to take a ride in my new car. Maybe this is unsportsmanlike behavior, but I confess and repent... Although, in my defense, I will note that all the twists that the electrician made, I patiently soldered them myself, treated them with sealant, and just in case (in case I had to go swimming) I packed them in heat shrink. Bunches of wires were collected into bundles, and Japanese corrugation was put on top. To heat the spark plugs, a new button has appeared on the instrument panel.

The extreme degree of deterioration of the original battery wires forced me to buy new copper wires, replace the terminals, solder the joints, seal them and also heat-shrink them. I also installed a new block of “foreign” fuses.

At that time there was a big problem - the steering rod coming from the gearbox rested on the starter and the oil filter. Due to lack of supplies (no scrap tie rods), I put off solving this problem until later. I just turned it 180 degrees and then it fell into place.

We installed Luaz's original throttle cable in about 15 minutes. We installed an air filter from the 41st Moskvich. I liked it because you can easily attach a snorkel to it.

Then the original gas pipeline was dismantled. Instead, a fuel line from a Toyota Land Cruiser Prado was passed through the cabin. And in place of the switch, a manual pump with a water sensor and a fuel filter was installed.

From the pump, mostly for reinsurance, we installed 2 more small mesh filters. I don’t consider such reinsurance unnecessary, because low-quality filters are so common. From these, parts of the filter element can get into the fuel equipment, tightly clogging the mesh at the inlet. As a result, the engine will not be able to develop maximum power.

We used a radiator from model 8 Lada. Special mounts were made to it, with the help of which the fan was attached.

The radiator was placed on the right in the direction of travel of the car, it stood at an angle of 45 degrees. But this is not all the work - now it was necessary to connect the pipes to the radiator:

A Chinese stove, purchased in advance, was placed in the cabin. The glove compartment was dismantled, the radiator pipe was unfolded:

Having checked the thermostat, we immediately discovered its defect - it did not close completely. Therefore, they replaced it with a new one, according to the seller, Japanese. Then we selected a faucet for the stove from what was at hand.

As connectors between the radiator and the pipes, we used a pipe from an old vacuum cleaner, which fit well in diameter. One of the connectors is made as a tee for a tube with a diameter of 20 mm to connect the expansion tank, which also had to be taken from the Lada 8th model.

Next we installed the air filter. Since the seat of the 1N diesel air collector was much wider than the original flexible corrugation of the air collector, we had to tinker with it a lot. To do this, they took the original plastic corrugation, inserted it from 41 Moskvich on top, and sealed it all with sealant. It turned out very well. Apart from the fact that when you press sharply on the accelerator pedal, the soft corrugation from the 41 filter easily flattens and blocks the access of air. Because of this, the LuAZ could “freeze” at full speed with a shameful squeak :) Therefore, I had to insert a piece of hard plastic inside the soft corrugation. After that, you could press on the gas with any force without fear.

After all these manipulations, we got this engine compartment:

The muffler was picked up from a UAZ-Patriot, it was customized and welded in place. They installed it in the same place where the regular one was located.

And finally a test drive was made. The feelings were indescribable. In my opinion, I experienced such a feeling only once, when, after 6 months of hard work, I drove a UAZ-469, decommissioned from one large enterprise. On my first trip, I drove a LuAZ with 1N for 2 km, did not find any defects, and then drove the car into the garage for modifications.

And there were a lot of improvements to be made:

— the steering rod needs to be modified,

— it is necessary to replace the muffler, since the UAZ muffler from the Patriot did not live up to my expectations.

— the engine sump needs to be modified and its protection installed.

Due to various reasons and family circumstances, I returned to modifying this car only after a year and a half. With little use, the oil seal began to leak, I had to replace it, and at the same time I dropped the pan. Digested it. I didn’t add extra space in the back, as those who installed 1N on LuAZ before me advised. I found another pallet and a spare block for it, over time I will completely redo everything. After welding, there is a 10mm gap between the protection and the pallet, although this is not very clearly visible in the photo.

This is what the installed pallet looks like:

and this is what the installed protection looks like:

I had to tinker a little with the oil receiver. I didn’t cut it, I just reduced the fastening tabs a little and bent it so that it didn’t rest against the pallet. The bubble plate was also trimmed a bit.

How long will all this work take? - you ask. The answer is quite simple and logical: if you don’t have children, or have children who you can take with you to the garage or leave at home alone, then the work can be done in a couple of weeks. If, in addition to all this, you have a welder in your garage, and a lathe across the road, then you can get it done in a week. (With one caveat - that you have the stove in stock). It took me much longer, because I can’t visit my favorite garage more than once a week for 3-5 hours.

For advertising purposes:

• Pawnshop address and telephone number in SochiNext Entry -> Find: Loans secured by jewelry.

Source

Patency

To improve the suspension, the suspension was reconstructed, it rose by 4 cm

.
The body, namely its front part, was reduced by 10 cm
.
For such a reduction, I had to raise the radiator up. As a result, a huge and incongruous air intake was placed on the hood. the Mercedes-Benz Sprinter
moved here .

5.6 ton winch

can be placed in a homemade power bumper. There is no rear bumper on this SUV, since the spare wheels and tow bar are located on the rear wall.

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The SUV is equipped with unusual equipment, among which you can find:

• branch cutters;
• a vertical stainless steel exhaust pipe is installed immediately behind the driver's door;
• stove from Volkswagen Golf
  ;
• seat from Lanos
  ;
• stairs leading to the roof;
• stainless steel snorkel;
• additional light placed in a circle;
• hydraulic handbrake;
• 14-
  off-road wheels ;
• rear differential lock.

Without a good tool, the master would hardly have been able to achieve such an interesting result.

Power unit

Despite the fact that domestic cars are difficult to classify as the elite category of the automotive industry, minor modifications to the LuAZ will allow you to get a completely decent vehicle both in terms of driving parameters and in terms of comfort. The main changes concern the power plant, chassis and interior equipment.

The standard SUV engine has a good “appetite”. It consumes about 14 liters of fuel per hundred kilometers. Moreover, the engine capacity is only 1.2 liters. Other features of the power plant of the car in question are given below:

• Atmospheric cooling, which causes high noise and unstable operation at high speeds, maintained when overcoming difficult obstacles. If handled carelessly, the unit may overheat.
• Low power rating. For such a volume and fuel consumption, 40 horsepower is clearly not enough.
• Imperfect carburetor design, which often floods the cylinders with fuel. This negatively affects the operation and starting of the engine, especially when cold.
• The resource of the unit before major repairs does not exceed 80 thousand kilometers.

Making a car out of LuAZ

In this article we will talk about a car like the LuAZ-969m. This is a light SUV, the production of which began back in 1975. Then it was a really good purchase, especially for a rural resident, because, despite its awkward appearance, the car copes well with all the bumps and obstacles. In addition, the car is unpretentious to fuel or oil, absolutely nothing. At the moment, it is almost impossible to see this “jeep” on the roads, however, tuning the LuAZ 969m, like any other SUV, has become very widespread. First, let's look at what the owners are not satisfied with with the standard equipment.

LuAZ: engine modifications

As a rule, the power unit is improved in two ways: by modifying the standard engine and by installing a model from VAZ. Let's consider both options.

Modernization of the car's power unit is aimed at increasing engine reliability and reducing fuel consumption. A certain list of manipulations will help optimize the operation of not only this power unit, but also many other analogues.

Stages of work:

1. Installation of another carburetor. Using an adapter, install the DAAZ-2105 model, which will increase the reliability of starting at idle and reduce fuel consumption. Spare parts for this unit are not in short supply.
2. Replacing the air filter with a more modern version.
3. Grinding the cylinder head. Since the motor is V-shaped, manipulation must be performed on both elements. To do this, the seat plate is ground down a couple of millimeters, which will reduce the volume of the combustion chambers and increase compression. This will affect the decrease in the “appetite” of the car.

Smoke from the exhaust

But it happens that even when the engine is warm, black smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe. This is the most dangerous sign. The reason for this phenomenon may be the destruction of oil scraper rings or valve stem seals. The first ones are installed on all pistons, and the second ones are installed on the valves. When the rings are destroyed, the engine begins to consume a lot of oil. The breather also produces black smoke, or white smoke with a bluish tint, which clogs the air filter. Replacing oil rings and caps will help get rid of black smoke. But before replacing the rings, be sure to check whether the cylinders require boring. This can be determined by measuring the circumference of the sleeves. If they have an ellipse shape, then the cylinders should be bored and the piston group replaced. Even if you simply change the rings, break in the engine, and do not subject it to excessive loads for a while. But white smoke on a warm engine is also not a very good sign. The cause of white smoke is the ingress of coolant into the lubrication system. This is not difficult to determine, because the level of the coolant will decrease, and the oil in the lubrication system, diluted with antifreeze, will become more transparent and lighter, and foam will form on its surface. The main reason for antifreeze leakage into the lubrication system is the destruction of the cylinder head gasket. A loose fit of the head to the block is a little less common.

LuAZ, which diesel should I install?

Dear forum users. Recently, I’ve been obsessed with the idea of ​​buying a LuAZ and starting to modify it. No special problems are expected with the purchase, since according to advertisements there are still plenty of “lunar rovers” for sale and for reasonable money. The first thing I’m thinking of doing is changing the wheels to 14-inch ones, installing disc brakes (for example, from a VAZ-2108), installing a front differential lock (there is a description on the internet) and replacing its original Melitopol engine with some kind of diesel engine. So about diesel. In this case, the diesel engine should be approximately in the same weight category as the native Melitopol engine, have at least no less power and greater torque, developed at lower speeds. In connection with this idea, I was interested in the diesel engine from the WolksVagen Transporter-3 minibus (this is the one with the engine at the back). Its working volume, EMNIP, is 1.6 and 1.9 liters. Who can say anything about these engines (especially 1.6)? How much heavier are they than the Melitopol engine? Does anyone have experience installing WV diesel engines on LuAZs? Thank you in advance for any thoughts and refraining from flooding.

It was a general vehicle, it didn’t work on 14 wheels at all, they gave it to the craftsmen, installed the engine and gearbox from Moskvich, and the drives began to fly off just like that. there was a lot of hemorrhage, zero cross-country ability, we burned it, not by accident, but on purpose, doused it with gasoline and burned it, and I advise you to do the same, and preferably before alterations, so as not to waste money, a used UAZ will be cheaper, and do nothing No need. Yes, I almost forgot - the Luaz has no cross-country ability.

It is better to look at the engine according to the criterion of being as light as possible with the same power.

Spinning player34

Yes, I almost forgot - the Luaz has no cross-country ability.

theorist

Do we mean the same car?

The fact is that a couple of times I rode it as a passenger to places that would be awkward to mention in polite society, and I had the exact opposite opinion about its cross-country ability.

theorist

The fact is that a couple of times I rode it as a passenger to places that would be awkward to mention in polite society, and I had the exact opposite opinion about its cross-country ability.

It is better to look at the engine according to the criterion of being as light as possible with the same power.

koldun

But there’s no need to tell fairy tales! Good? Otherwise, it seems that you have simply never seen LuAZ work in the mud.

Dear Spinningist34, Your warnings are, of course, a noble cause (jokes aside!), but I repeat, I have a POSITIVE experience with LuAZ. As a topic starter, I would ask you not to provoke a comparative discussion of the pros and cons of the LuAZ in comparison with other SUVs. There is a separate topic in the thread about this, and, in my opinion, more than one. In addition, there are a bunch of auto forums where these comparisons have already been chewed and chewed. So explain

what determines its supposedly “high cross-country ability”?

But essentially. Can anyone else comment on diesel engines?

From the second golf roofing felt 1.4, roofing felt 1.6, a very compact and simple engine. Probably installed on the polo too. Of the modern ones, Smart has a three-cylinder 0.8 54 hp, but not on a budget.

It is a four-cylinder, which means it is long. In addition, it is for transverse mounting, that is, the starter sticks out towards the box, which can create obstacles.

koldun

Everything would be fine, but it is “torque, that is, it reaches maximum torque at high speeds.

A torque converter is tempting, but, firstly, it is difficult to implement (by the way, what is a “kei car”), and secondly, it is another element that reduces reliability and complicates the design. But from the second “Golf” - this is already quite interesting! Can you give me a link where I can see its weight and dimensions characteristics.

And remove the 0.66 gasoline along with the box from some Japanese keicar.

koldun

A torque converter is tempting, but, firstly, it is difficult to implement (by the way, what is a “kei car”), and secondly, it is another element that reduces reliability and complicates the design.

SSunny

By the way, yes. With the Pajero Mini 660 cm3 supercharged, that’s it. And very compact.

Recently, I’ve been obsessed with the idea of ​​buying a LuAZ and starting to modify it. No special problems are expected with the purchase, since according to advertisements there are still plenty of “lunar rovers” for sale and for reasonable money. The first thing I’m thinking of doing is changing the wheels to 14-inch ones, installing disc brakes (for example, from a VAZ-2108), installing a front differential lock (there is a description on the internet) and replacing its original Melitopol engine with some kind of diesel engine. So about diesel. In this case, the diesel engine should be approximately in the same weight category as the native Melitopol engine, have at least no less power and greater torque, developed at lower speeds. In connection with this idea, I was interested in the diesel engine from the WolksVagen Transporter-3 minibus (this is the one with the engine at the back). Its working volume, EMNIP, is 1.6 and 1.9 liters. Who can say anything about these engines (especially 1.6)? How much heavier are they than the Melitopol engine? Does anyone have experience installing WV diesel engines on LuAZs? Thank you in advance for any thoughts and refraining from flooding.

Money down the drain. I had a LuAZ for 8 years, there were constant breakdowns and repairs, the car is small, the cross-country ability is like that of a standard UAZ, but the speed is lower than the power reserve. Tuning is much more difficult than the UAZ. I sold it a year ago and bought a UAZ loaf, lifted it slightly, cut off the fenders, installed mud tires and the cross-country ability is much better than on the Luaze and the size is larger. The only + of the Luaze is its nimbleness in the forest and driving on steep slopes. And - a lot.

By the way, if my memory serves me right, the LUAZ has a very “funny” control system - the steering rack goes through the engine. So replacing the engine will also lead to replacing the steering wheel (actually, it’s not a pity, because no one I know has been able to get rid of the backlash on the ore LUAZ).

Passerby posted 28-3-2011 10:07 Click Here to See the Profile for Passerby Click Here to Email Passerby complain to moderator Edit/Delete Message Reply w/Quote By the way, if my memory serves me right, LUAZ has a very “funny” system control - the steering rack goes through the engine. So replacing the engine will also lead to replacing the steering wheel (actually, it’s not a pity, because no one I know has been able to get rid of the backlash on the ore LUAZ).

arjan

Nothing works there, it takes 20 minutes to pull the engine out. There is no steering rack; there is a steering gear like on a Moskvich or UAZ.

Maybe they changed something in the latest models. I'm so sorry if I'm wrong - I haven't dealt with LUAZ for a long time, I remembered what the owner said a long time ago.

Luddit

I wonder if it’s the other way around – Luazov’s bridges under the Padzherik? What is the track width of the Luazik?

Why is this? Minik has beautiful bridges of its own. I just bought a contract soldier for 3.5 thousand. But you still need to look for LuAZ, and how can you get ABS there?

The Russians' desire to put their hands to work is ineradicable))) The Japanese smoke nervously.

Source

LuAZ with a Zhiguli engine

It’s not just the racing “Constipation” that can be a wolf in sheep’s clothing.
Friends, I see that our posts about wild “Zaporozhets” with non-native engines have aroused quite a lot of interest, so today we will tell you about another little car, which is a close relative of the Zaziks and has also been converted to a more powerful engine. And yes, these are also matters of very long ago: the events described date back to 13.15 years ago, and the photographs presented were taken between April 2004 and January 2005.

One day, the Baberdin brothers decided that they absolutely lacked thrills in life. They thought, and bought themselves an old LuAZ-969M - a small all-terrain vehicle on Zaporozhets units. And in search of adventure, one day we went on a trophy raid on it - of course, in the standard test class. But they were not destined to reach the finish line of the first day - the small wheels of the LuAZ sank into the field completely washed out by the autumn rains. Attempts to get out of this trap on my own led to the rear-wheel drive breaking down. It was here that the Baberdins met Albert Danilov, who was a judge at this special stage, and then until late in the evening he was engaged in the evacuation of all the crews completely mired in mud. In general, LuAZ seemed to Albert an interesting object for serious tuning and was registered in his garage for some time.

Theoretically, the 969 has serious off-road potential: low curb weight, independent torsion bar suspension, forced differential locking of the rear axle and ground clearance reaching 280 mm thanks to wheel gearboxes. But all these advantages are negated by a weak (only 39 hp) and unreliable air-cooled engine. It was this “shortcoming” that Albert decided to correct. Under the hood of the LuAZ, he introduced a 1.6-liter VAZ-2106-70 engine, equipped with a 73rd Solex. The gearbox remains original. It was possible to install a locking differential into the front axle - the same as the one at the rear. The exhaust tract received a muffler from Honda, placed transversely behind the front bumper - so the risk of tearing it off or damaging it is reduced to almost zero.

At least a two-fold increase in the vehicle's power supply required modernization of the brake system: LuAZ received the main brake cylinder and vacuum booster from the Zhiguli. The standard 34-liter gas tank hanging under the bottom was mercilessly thrown out: firstly, it limits geometric cross-country ability, and secondly, it is easily deformed by stones flying from under the wheels, losing its already modest usable volume. Now the fuel supply is stored in two welded tanks with a total capacity of about 50 liters - they are compactly located in the cabin along the sides directly above the rear wheels. True, we had to sacrifice both rear folding seats.

The interior has also changed somewhat. The first thing that catches your eye is the instrument panel: six instruments from the VAZ “six” are embedded in the standard frame. Now the driver only has no control over the engine oil temperature. And the central place in the combination is given to the tachometer - this is a “racing” car! The “original” front seats left the cabin - they were replaced by more comfortable ones and also equipped with headrests: the comfort of the crew largely contributes to the achievement of good sporting results!

Almost on its first “combat sortie,” the reborn 969 won the Jeeper “Obstacle Course” in the “Tourism” class. But it was a dynamic event with light off-roading, where the powerful little LuAZ was at ease. But on really difficult trophy-raid off-road conditions, it was unable to compete with UAZs due to its small wheels. As far as I remember, then the owners began trying to install larger wheels on the car: for some time LuAZ drove on wide ATV tires, then on Volgov 15-inch tires. But large wheels brought with them problems with the strength of the chassis and transmission. Apparently, it was best to leave the car in its original configuration - with a powerful engine and standard wheels: then it was as harmonious as possible! Well, for a snack - a few photos from the competitions in which this “Luazi” took part.

Source

VAZ engine

The installation of the power unit from the “classic” must be done strictly horizontally, otherwise the gearbox will not fit into its seat, and the input shaft will be subject to snagging. Experts advise installing a 1.7-liter engine (from a Niva). The power reaches 80 horses, but the weight increases to 150 kg.

As an option, you can install a motor from model 21083 (1.5 l). This version is more compact and lighter. When operating the unit, you must pay attention to the timing belt, as it will be subject to additional load. The Zhiguli engine is paired perfectly with the G8 transmission, which combines well with the LuAZ transfer case. An additional plus is the small engine crankcase, which improves cross-country ability.

Modifications of LuAZ 969

LuAZ 969M 1.2 MT

Maximum speed, km/h	90
Acceleration time to 100 km/h, sec	–
Engine	Petrol
Working volume, cm 3	1200
Power, hp / rpm	40/4200
Torque, Nm/rpm	74/2700-2900
Combi consumption, l per 100 km	12.0
Gearbox type	Mechanical, 4 gears
Drive unit	Full
Show all characteristics

Composition of the air conditioning system

The basis of the air conditioner is the compressor, the one driven by the timing belt or generator. The drive method depends on the specific vehicle model. The radiator (condenser), installed in the front of the car, is designed to cool the refrigerant. And a radiator is installed in the cabin, in which the coolant is in a cold state. To be more precise, this radiator takes heat from the surrounding air. The copper tubes that connect the air conditioner components are needed for the circulation of refrigerant. A four-way valve must be installed if you are going to use the air conditioner as a heater in winter. It changes the direction of movement of the refrigerant. And, finally, fans on radiators. In the cabin, an electric fan distributes cooled air, and in the condenser, the refrigerant is cooled more efficiently due to the fan installed on it. The compressor has an electromagnetic clutch. The pulley rotates continuously, and the compressor rotor is connected to the support of this clutch when the air conditioner is turned on.

( 2 ratings, average 4 out of 5 )

What needs to be done to install air conditioning on a VAZ?

First, you should change the power supply system a little. The generator, the one installed by default, will now be too weak. It is necessary that it produces 10 Amperes more. That's the minimum. On the contrary, the battery will not have enough charge, and the operation of the motor will be unstable. Secondly, the generator drive should also be changed. A particularly suitable option would be to use a VAZ-2110 generator on nines and classics. Accordingly, the belt drive is also from this car. You just need to use a belt with a slightly longer length. And it is advisable to use a special tension roller. In VAZ-2108, as well as VAZ-2114, there will be no problems with installing a radiator in the cabin. The beard (middle part of the panel) allows you to install a radiator and fans under the tape recorder panel. Classics don't have much space, so the best place to install the radiator is the shelf under the glove compartment. During operation, however, the passenger in the front seat will be very cold. But don’t forget about condensation, which can cause the body to rot. It must be drained strictly.

The exhaust pipe may emit both steam and smoke. If the steam is not terrible, then if smoke occurs, a diagnosis should be made. The smoke can be pure white, white with a tint, or completely black. And the color indicates a malfunction in the motor.

Smoke from the exhaust pipe can alert the average driver. Just don’t immediately grab your head and sound the alarm. It is absolutely acceptable that the smoke from the exhaust system is not dangerous and will not affect the operation of the engine in any way. First of all, you need to pay attention to the color of this smoke, and only then draw conclusions about what exactly is wrong with the engine, whether it requires repair and maintenance. The color of the exhaust gases can be used to determine engine malfunction.

Reworking the LuAZ steering rack

An analogue from Volkswagen can be used as this unit. Before installing the rail, spacers are installed under the front beam with a height of 4 centimeters, which are shifted forward by 50 mm. This is necessary in order to be able to use R15 size wheels.

The steering rack on the LuAZ 969M, the modification of which is carried out by replacing it with an analogue of the Volkswagen Golf 2, is welded to the front suspension beam. This operation is carried out through a bracket made of a 40*60 mm square profile and a corner. A three-millimeter bracket is welded directly to the frame, which serves as a mount for the bevel gear. On the reverse side, a similar element is bolted to the body. After finishing the work, all that remains is to remove the play in the rear beam. As a result, the steering wheel turns easily, there are no gaps or rattling.

Technical characteristics of LuAZ 969

Year of issue	1979
Body type	SUV
Length, mm	3390
Width, mm	1610
Height, mm	1780
Number of doors	3
Number of seats	4
Trunk volume, l	–
Country of assembly	USSR

Interior improvement

The inner lining must be completely removed, new insulation must be laid, and the joints must be treated with mastic. Uncomfortable seats can be replaced with any analogues by first welding suitable fasteners. It doesn’t hurt to raise the seats by 100-150 millimeters, which will optimize entry into the car.

When remaking a LuAZ with your own hands, it is imperative to strengthen the roof guide elements, otherwise there is a risk of body deformation when driving over potholes. In addition, it is advisable to install a new steering wheel, since the standard version has a thin rim that slips between your fingers. If a VAZ engine is installed, the situation with the stove will radically change. This is due to the fact that the new engine is water-cooled, which means the heater can be moved into the cabin and a fan can be installed nearby.

It is possible to update the panel by installing parts from the “classics”. This solution will make it possible to install a tachometer and temperature sensor.

Steam from the exhaust pipe

Novice drivers, who are not well versed in cars, but have already heard from “experienced” motorists about smoke from the exhaust pipe, often confuse steam with smoke. As soon as the ambient temperature drops, you can monitor the white smoke from the chimney for some time. But this is actually light steam. Exhale the air from your lungs. You will see the same true pair. Now imagine that all parts of the engine and exhaust system have cooled overnight. And in the morning you start the engine and intense heating processes begin to occur in it. According to every law of physics, condensation will begin to form, which, under the influence of the force of exhaust gases, will gravitate towards the outlet - to the muffler and exhaust pipe.

Suspension unit

The existing suspension of the car in question is an independent type with limited travel. This problem can be radically solved by installing continuous bridges. You will have to work hard, but the result will be quite noticeable after improvement. Alterations of the LuAZ in this part should not be carried out by moving the main drive backwards, since the cross-country ability is significantly higher with a driven front axle. Some craftsmen make a suspension lift, but this is unnecessary, since the ground clearance is already quite impressive - 280 millimeters, and with the 21083 engine - even more.