How to open the trunk of a Lada Kalina hatchback

Lada Kalina hatchback › Logbook › Opening the trunk using the original key fob and a separate button

Good afternoon everyone!
The time has come for the first entry in my BZ. I have been thinking about the idea of opening the trunk using a button on the key and a button in the cabin for quite some time. Either there was no time for implementation, then my hands were out of w... ahem... in general, I was finally mature enough to realize my idea both morally and financially.

1. Actuator selection

I originally bought this actuator:

But, unfortunately, his efforts were negligible to open my trunk.

The option of installing such an actuator was considered:

but, after rummaging around in the garage, a wild thought came to me...why not put this?

YES YES! It's exactly what you're thinking. This is a pull-in relay. Preventing throwing tomatoes and rotten eggs, I want to say that this option suits me quite well. The effort is just awesome. In my case, this is what the doctor ordered.

2. Connection diagram

In my Kalinka, the control unit for the electrical package is “NORM”, and it has an old operating algorithm. You mean, if you press the button to open all the doors, or arm the car using the original key fob, then contact 19 will work and the trunk door will open. I found the diagram on the Internet and modified it a little. Initially, the scheme solved the problem of the button for opening all doors, but when arming, the tailgate still opened. This is, in fact, what happened in the end, after a lot of three-story matting and destroyed nerve cells.

I would like to note that this circuit is only suitable for low-current activators. In my case, the power supply of the retractor must be turned on through an additional relay, due to the high current consumption. Yes, and the standard wiring will not be enough; you will have to pull a wire of a larger cross-section.

3. Additional button

I put the button here

4. Trunk lock

Regarding whether to file down a tooth or not to file it down. There are a lot of articles on the Internet about how a lock from a Priora station wagon is suitable for Kalina, with the top tooth cut off already from the factory. I started looking for this unit. In our car markets we have never heard of such a thing, but on Tyrnet this miracle costs 360 Khokhlobaks. The toad inside me took over and I went for the grinder. This is what happened in the end

I advise you not to overdo it with sawing... you can ruin the lock.

5. Summary

The trunk door opens with the original key fob. When you press the button to open all doors and when arming, the relay opens the contact to the activator and the door does not open.

I'm glad it's an elephant. This is my first blog post, so don't judge too harshly. If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer!

Good luck to everyone in your endeavors.

Price tag: 300 UAH

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Comments 20

I also want to do this for myself, maybe one of these days I’ll do it

great post. A question from a teapot, so to speak. I don't know much about electrics. But still not enough to pull out the right one from the pile of wires. The question is exactly this. I have a viburnum with an alarm. Moreover, when the electrician installed it, he said that the trunk would be opened with the alarm key fob and with the standard key fob, and said to buy an additional regular four-pin relay. I installed the activator - but it’s not convenient to open it from the key fob - I want to embed a button into the interior. Maybe someone can tell me where and where to get what.

Here you can do everything elementary. The button is placed in the gap of the positive wire. It takes a long time to draw a picture, I’ll try to explain it with my fingers. Take a two-contact button that works to close. Connect one contact to 12V, the other to the plus of the activator. It is advisable to place a diode in the gap in the power wire that goes from the signaling to the activator. Everything will work.

Well, thank you. Almost understandable. I can most likely figure this out.

Hello! Please tell me if it's not difficult. I installed the activator, now the trunk can be opened with the factory key fob. When the car is started, the key fob won't open it. But it opens if you press the unlock button on all doors. Everything would be fine, but I close the doors with a button in the cabin when I drive or stand in remote places. Then I open it in the city, and naturally, the trunk opens with them, I have to get out and slam it. How to prevent the trunk from opening with this button. And also, I want to make a separate button to open the trunk from inside, where should I connect it?

Lada Granta >Gr@nt@hoD

The car is 2 years old, the trunk was not connected, although there was business there... - why didn’t the installer complete the connection - a mystery?! All this time I managed to get by with the key, but in winter the lock would freeze after washing - an inconvenience. I had to buy a defroster. Now everything is in the past. Recently in B\W one person came across a connection for opening the trunk from a key fob, it turns out - “seeds”! I read a little more on the drive on this topic in order to take into account all the nuances. I was very pleased with this connection diagram (without causing harm to the wiring): www.drive2.ru/l/3160494/ Second connection method: www.drive2.ru/l/4899916394579274051/ Choose! We look at the pictures with explanations: We find our whitefish in the car, we also find the yellow-black wire (negative OH! / Additional channel No. 1 (200mA) (-) (trunk opening) on the diagram. We connect (extend), pull it to the location of the block fuse. (I probably had it cut, only 10cm long)

= = Making a small new connection from wires

= = Connect according to the diagram

= = My example: I won’t say about the money, it was almost all there. I only bought a 5A fuse (20 rubles) and a chip (block) with fixation to the fuse block (15 rubles). That's all for me. Bye bye. Share the positive!

ZY, when opening the trunk, you no longer need to disarm the key fob and re-set it. convenient in practice

Installing the trunk lock activator Lada Kalina

For a long time I wanted to open the trunk with a button, everyone knows that on a Lada Kalina it’s very difficult to do this, for example, you got into the car, started the engine and you need to throw something into the trunk, to do this you need to turn off the engine and get out, insert the key, open the trunk, in general it’s very not convenient.

The question, as always, began with studying the topic, there are 2 types of lock buttons, the old and the new (since 2010) model.

I can say I was lucky, the old-style lock button and the trunk operation algorithm I need looks like this (if yours is different, then the new-style button).

What is most interesting in any Kalina is almost everything to unlock the trunk with a button, everyone saw a third button on the key fob just for opening the trunk (the button needs to be pressed and held for 3 seconds), wires are laid in the trunk for the activator and the standard place for its installation is in trunk, you need to add a little!

General view under the trunk trim:

Connector for connecting the activator:

In general, you will need to buy an activator, absolutely any one, I took this one:

I modified the ends of the wires a little so that they fit into the standard connector:

You will need to make the following part, it is called a rotary washer:

Then you can remove the trunk trim (attached to the pistons), take out the retaining ring and the plastic pusher and try on the parts, they should look like this:

In these 2 photos below the principle of operation, the activator pushes the rotary washer:

You will also need a regular washer with an internal diameter = the internal diameter of the plastic pusher. The thickness of the washer must be very small so that the entire system can be assembled, here is a photo:

After that, we put everything back together, first insert the plastic pusher, then the rotary washer, then the nut. We fix everything with a locking ring (if it doesn’t fit, then you need to make the washer even thinner).

We insert the activator into a place specially prepared for this:

We connect the wires (I wrapped them with electrical tape just in case so that they would hold better).

Installing and adjusting rods:

Video. How the mechanism works

Firstly, the door does not open on its own, you still need to press the open button, but the key is no longer needed! (if desired, you can also use the key if the battery is suddenly disconnected).

Installation of the activator: preparatory work

Since there is space for a trunk lock activator in Kalina, it makes sense to use it. Absolutely any activator will do. Of course, for those who are interested in the quality and long service life of the entire device, it is better not to stop at extremely cheap options. Experienced car owners still advise choosing domestic Kalina electric lock drives, regardless of body type. They are somewhat more expensive than similar products made in China or Taiwan, but still more reliable. Main parameters of the activator:

12 volts;
two-pin;
lock-unlock functions.

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In order for the door opening system to work fully by pressing a button, one activator will not be enough. You will also need such a thing as a rotary washer. According to many car owners, the easiest way is to grind it yourself. You will need a steel plate and a machine. There are quite enough drawings with dimensions that will show what kind of rotary washer for the Kalina activator should be on various auto forums.

It is possible that after the washer is manufactured, it will have to be modified when installing the activator. The activator installation technique itself will require some tricks. For example, the first step is to remove the trunk trim. It is secured with pistons, which immediately became unusable for most car owners. Conclusion: pre-purchase of “hedgehogs” for subsequent installation of the trunk trim in place is mandatory.

Another nuance lies in the types of locks on the Lada Kalina. Firstly, locks on cars manufactured before 2020 and after differ in their design. Accordingly, the types of activators will differ slightly. This issue is resolved upon purchase. Secondly, most of those who independently installed the lock activator for Kalina station wagon either modified the lock itself or replaced it with another one. It remains to figure out why this is needed and how it is done.

The bottom line is that the trunk lock is equipped with two “tongues”. After modifying the lock to open it with a button on the key, the existing problems were partially solved, but a new one arose. If, when opening the trunk with the key button, someone did not support the trunk lid in time, it would lower, as a result the trunk would close again.

Repair of the trunk lock of Lada Kalina Hatchback

A reliable way to repair the Kalina trunk lock

Hatchback and Station Wagon.

The trunk door lock of the Lada Kalina Hatchback and Station Wagon is a rather capricious unit that can seriously spoil the blood of its owners.

As soon as you put a large load in the trunk that puts pressure on the lid, for example a couple of bags of potatoes, and drive a dozen kilometers on a bumpy road, it stops opening.

If, after pressing the button, the mechanism does not return back, then you will have to open it from the interior by pressing the latch with a screwdriver. The plate on the lock body has disengaged and the thrust stroke has sharply decreased, which does not allow the force to be transferred to the latch.

The design of the drive is puzzling. Even if the developers were faced with the task of minimizing the cost and high manufacturability of the assembly, this is not an excuse.

Any component of the car must work out its service life without failures. The plastic insert in the pressure unit is fixed by bending the latch on the lock body.

The lug is a few millimeters in size and easily breaks after several disassemblies necessary to clean the rotating mechanism.

The new case is sold only assembled; you most likely will not be able to buy the sleeve separately. Moreover, such a solution to the problem will not ensure durability. There are descriptions online of repairing a unit using a self-tapping screw screwed into a hole drilled in the eye.

That's exactly what I did, after having to open it from the inside with a screwdriver a couple of times. As it turned out, this method is too short-lived. The ear broke very quickly.

Luggage compartment lock

You can, if desired, modify the trunk lock of the Kalina hatchback in exactly the same way as was considered in the case of the Kalina station wagon.
One of the main nuances, oddly enough, is not in the electrics or body design features, but in the fastening of the trunk trim. The point is that the Kalina hatchback is supported not only by pistons, but also by plastic corners. That is why, when removing the trunk trim of a Kalina hatchback, you must pull the trim from the top: while the “hedgehogs” are easy to replace, the stationary plastic holders are only easy to break. And more about plastic. The bottom line is that the Kalina hatchback has a plastic trim on the trunk lid. According to the observations of many car owners, these are two problems at once. The first is that plastic is not entirely suitable for this part.

Constant efforts to open the fifth door, combined with a small number of stiffeners, gradually lead to the appearance of cracks in the plastic. Then everything follows domino rules. Perhaps the plastic will soon “fly”, and then you will have to think about repairs. Or, which is no easier, the plastic cover may remain in place, but will begin to “walk” along the metal part. And these are scratches on the coating and subsequent corrosion.

There are also aesthetes among Kalina hatchback owners who simply do not like the look of the trunk lid opening button. In general, all of the above reasons often lead hatchback owners to the same decision: an opening button on the fifth door is not needed. To solve all the problems at once, you can not only modify the Kalina trunk lock, but also remove the button from the fifth door, and, on the contrary, install a button in the car interior.

DIY lock repair step by step

I had to implement it in my own way, so that I could forget about the problem forever.

To work, you will need a minimum of tools - a set of 8, 10 wrenches, a drill, a screwdriver, a vice and a file.

The materials you need are a piece of metal perforated profile or DIN - 35 rails, approximately 350 mm long, a pair of M5-M6 screws, with nuts and spring washers, several “hedgehog” fastening inserts, well known to all owners of VAZ cars.

First of all, remove the plastic cover. To do this, you need to unscrew the 2 screws securing the pocket handle and remove the cover plate by slightly prying it up with a powerful screwdriver from below. The force should be applied in the downward direction (open upward) to avoid breaking the guides.

The fastening latches may break, but there is nothing to worry about - they are considered disposable items, are inexpensive and are sold at any automotive store. Then we measure the required length of the profile so that the existing perforated holes coincide with those located on the body.

Cut to size and file the sharp edges. You can use a steel strip 20-40 mm, 2-4 mm thick. This bus is used for grounding loops. It will require drilling 3 holes of 9-10 mm. The third hole in the middle is for attaching the pressure plate.

The best option is to make a strip from a DIN rail, which is sold at any electrical goods store. I found a perforated steel profile in the garage, so I made a strip from it. The second design detail is the aforementioned pressure plate.

Its purpose is to provide a rigid connection between the bar and the lock plate.

The pressure plate can be made from any suitable piece of metal 2-4 mm thick, for example from a piece of the same profile. The main thing is to choose it so that the bent part of the eye rests against the lock plate with little effort when assembled. There is nothing complicated, look at the photo and everything will become clear.

Next, we attach the pressure plate to the rail with an M5 screw and nut. By attaching the bar to the surface of the door, we make sure that the bent ear rests on the surface of the lock plate. The bar needs to be slightly bent in a vice so that it follows the shape of the door surface. If necessary, the ear is bent in a vice with light blows of a hammer.

We fasten the rail with screws to the trunk door and check the functionality of the lock.

At the same time, we adjust the force of locking the trunk by rotating two rubber bushings located at the edges of the door. The trunk should close smoothly the first time.

Removing the lock, drive and latch of the trunk lid

To remove the lock, remove the four pistons by prying them off with a screwdriver.

. and remove the lock drive trim.

. disconnect the rod from the lock drive.

Squeezing the clamps, disconnect the lock wire block from the rear wiring harness block. We use a marker to mark the position of the lock relative to the trunk lid.

Using a socket or a 10mm wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the lock.

Remove the trunk lock with rod and wires. We install the trunk lock in the reverse order according to the previously marked marks. To remove the lock drive, disconnect the lock rod from the drive (see above).

We use a marker to mark the position of the lock drive relative to the trunk lid.

Using the “8” socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the lock drive to the trunk lid.

Remove the lock drive.

Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring.

Remove the pressure lever.

. and remove the lock.

Remove the pusher with the washer and spring.

We take out the cylinder lock mechanism. We assemble and install the lock drive in the reverse order according to the previously applied marks. To remove the lock retainer.

. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the clamp.

Remove the lock. We install the clamp in its place and tighten the fastening screws without tightening them completely. Close the trunk lid and then open it. The latch must take the correct position, therefore, without moving the latch, tighten the screws that secure it.

Source: wiki.zr.ru