Possible malfunctions of lighting, light signaling and ways to eliminate them GAZ 2705

Tips for motorists

A significant milestone in the development of electrical equipment for Gazelle cars was the year 2003. If you look at the electrical circuits of head lighting, it is easy to notice that on Gazelles until 2003, the headlight lamps were connected directly to the switch, and then the circuit was changed by including two relays in it, one of which works for low beam lamps, and the second for high beam lamps. Relays are installed to reduce the current at the switch contacts.

The simplest reason why a headlight stops turning on on low or high beam is a burnt-out lamp filament. Every driver can fix this problem, as long as he has a new lamp in stock that matches the power. But some drivers, wanting to improve the brightness of the light flux, install lamps of higher power instead of the standard low beam lamp of 55 watts or high beam of 60 watts.

This leads to an increase in the current in the circuit, as a result of which, on Gazelle cars produced before 2003, the plug connectors that are in the high or low beam circuit and the light switches begin to melt. And on Gazelle cars produced after 2003, the relay cannot withstand such a load.

The Gazelle's headlights will not turn on even if the fuse blows. True, it is worth noting that the 30-amp fuse on Gazelles before 2003 burned out very rarely. And after 2003, four 15-amp fuses began to be installed in the electrical circuit of the head lighting of Gazelles, each of which protected: low beam of the left headlight, low beam of the right headlight, high beam of the left headlight, high beam of the right headlight. They were located in the mounting block, which stood in the front panel in the car cabin. Two relays were also installed there: low and high beam. They begin to check them, making sure that the lamps and fuses have not blown.

On old (manufactured before 2003) Gazelles, the two-position central light switch was not a keyboard type, but with a handle that extended from it. Inside it there was a moving contact, which, if it became very hot, could open, thereby turning off the head lighting. But, in this case, there was no point in looking for a fault, since after it cools down, its contacts will close again and the electrical circuit will be restored. On new Gazelles (manufactured after 2003), a low current flows through the contacts of the light switches, and failure to operate occurs due to either contamination or corrosion.

The front lights do not light up.

Loss of contact of the front dimensions most often occurs in the connectors of the headlight unit. This mainly happens on Gazelles of the first editions. Loss of contacts is possible not only from the outside, but from the inside of the connector. To eliminate the malfunction, it is enough to unscrew one or two self-tapping screws, depending on the design, carefully remove the socket and clean the contacts from the inside. On Gazelles, restyling and business problems in the headlight unit are extremely rare.

The last option is when the Gazelle’s dimensions are not fully activated. You should start checking the Gazelle circuit with the fuses near the battery. On the first models, this practically does not happen unless the contact on the central switch or connected wires loosens. Most often, such a malfunction appears in restyling Gazelles. This is due to the use of a relay in the headlight circuit, through the contacts of which the current also passes to the headlight lamps. In this case, not only the relay fails, but also the socket where it is inserted, especially when the contacts are loosened. The relay is located on a bracket under the panel, on the steering column.

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Possible causes and diagnostics of the malfunction

1. First of all, if the headlight does not light, we check the light bulb itself; it even happens that by the time you discovered a malfunction of the head light, both low-beam lamps had already burned out. This almost never happens with high beam lamps, since they are used very little.
2. One of the most common reasons for headlights not working is a melted fuse thread. However, on most modern cars the power supply circuits of the right and left headlights are not interconnected and are protected by separate fuses. Therefore, the failure of one fuse element leads to the failure of one headlight. This headlight malfunction can be diagnosed visually by opening the mounting block and inspecting the fuses responsible for the operation of the failed lighting element. In cases where access to the mounting block is difficult, you should find out which other circuits are protected by this fuse and check the operation of devices receiving power from these circuits. If these devices also do not work, in 99% of cases the assumption about a failed fuse turns out to be correct.
3. If the assumption that the protective element has melted is not confirmed, it is necessary to check the head light relay. Typically, a relay failure will cause only one of the lighting systems to stop working. Either the low or high beam disappears. You can verify the functionality of the light switch relay by carefully listening to the sounds that occur when you try to turn on the headlights. If short, loud clicks are heard from under the instrument panel when turned on, this indicates that the relay is working properly. The absence of a click confirms the assumption that the relay is faulty.
4. It is also necessary to check all the connectors of the electrical wires going to the headlight; perhaps, after the last repair, they simply forgot to put a connector on the headlight terminal and, accordingly, it will not burn as a result. This happens if not a single light bulb is on in the headlights.
5. If the headlights still do not light up, then further search is carried out under the hood of the car. You should carefully inspect the existing wires and connections, move the terminals suitable for the headlights, and check the lighting lamps. Sometimes, due to a power surge in the on-board network, it happens that both lamps burn out at the same time. Also, due to water entering the engine compartment, they can oxidize and cease to perform the conductive function of the “chips” at the junctions of the wires.

The dimensions on one side do not light up.

When the rear lights on a Gazelle don’t work, we figured it out. If the lights on one side do not light up, then you need to check the fuses and replace the blown ones. If the fuse blows again during installation, there is a short circuit in the circuit. To find it, you need to disconnect the connector of the rear and front harness. This will allow you to determine which harness contains the short circuit. You should do the same in order to eliminate short circuits in headlights and rear lights. The specific location can be determined by examining the corresponding harness.

Methods for repairing headlights in the field

The above-described malfunctions are quite easily eliminated right on the road. No complex diagnostic or repair equipment is required. So, instead of a blown fuse, you can insert several cores from a stranded wire. In this case, one core is approximately capable of withstanding 1 ampere. The veins can be inserted directly into the socket or wrapped around the fuse. It is important that the contact surface is pressed tightly against the homemade fusible element.

A faulty relay can be replaced with a similar one used to switch on other high-voltage circuits. You can dismantle and use to replace a faulty headlight switch relay the element for switching on the power window circuit, heated seats, and additional equipment. In addition, many cars have a special backup socket with an unused relay. The connectors of almost all the elements in question in the car are similar to each other.

To turn on the headlights bypassing any faulty elements of the power circuit, you should use wires of sufficient cross-section and length. In this case, the ends of the wires are stripped of insulation and connected to a car socket designed for a portable lamp. The “cigarette lighter” can be used in a similar way. In this case, it is better to connect from the reverse side of the power point, connecting the wires directly to the terminals. The second ends of the wires are connected directly to the low beam lamp. It is important that only one headlight should be connected in this way. This is enough to get to your home or repair site while taking the necessary precautions. Connecting two powerful electrical consumers at once can lead to an overload of the power supply circuit of the cigarette lighter or socket, which often causes a fire in the car! You can read how to improve the headlights of your car here.

the light and the stove went out

#1 Serega_A

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Post edited by Serega_A: 22 January 2013 — 19:22 PM

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#2 kandalf

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#3 Serega_A

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Well, it’s like in a contact group and that’s it. Apparently defective.

Post edited by Serega_A: 22 January 2013 — 23:46 PM

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#4 kandalf

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#5 Serega_A

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Post edited by Serega_A: 23 January 2013 — 00:23 AM

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#6 Serega_A

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#7 kandalf

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#8 Serega_A

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#9 scream4eg

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To avoid creating similar topics, I’m writing here.

Today, while driving on the road at night, after 100 km the lights, heater, fog lights and windshield wipers disappeared, while the turn signals and high beams worked if I pulled the lever towards myself (without letting go).

It was decided to stop the train and go to the service station.

The guys looked at everything, thought about it, and said there was no power to the unloading relay. I say, well, get busy.

In the end, I came to pick up the car and off we went.

At first glance, everything worked, the engine started, the heater and wipers turned on - everything worked.

The only thing that confused me after the check was that previously the headlights were on when the ignition was on, but when the key was turned on, the whole thing went out while the starter was turning, then it came on again, now this is not the case. The electrician says that's how it should be. I do not know. I doubt that this is how it should be.

Well, in general, I left, and literally after the first stop my starter stopped turning, there were simply no signs of life. And at the same time, when I return the key back to the off position with the heater on, my tachometer needle twitches, if the heater is not on, then it’s normal.

Is it a contact group issue? Or did they do something tricky with the load-shedding relay? Maybe they took the plus from the wrong place?

Thank you all in advance for your answers.

Post edited by scream4eg: 12 December 2015 — 21:28 PM

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#10 kandalf

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Why the light on the gazelle does not work

Yesterday, most importantly, everything worked, today, as luck would have it, when needed, it doesn’t! high beam even when pulling the lever on the steering wheel, as if “blinking” does not work,

The fuses are all intact, I changed the low beam and high beam switches. And most importantly, when you turn on the headlights or low beams, the low beam symbol on the instrument panel does not light up! It turns out it doesn’t turn on at all! what to do, learn...

Which one is this, where is the hood handle? small black box? For some reason I thought it was from the signaling.

Added after 3 minutes 57 seconds, by the way, the fog lights don't light up either.

Yes, it seems they were on fire with the dimensions before, as far as I remember, although I could be wrong.

There is a light on the dashboard indicating that the fog lights are working, although they are not working. but the low beams on the panel don’t light up, and they don’t work... that’s it.

Did! Long time ago, I forgot to say thank you. It was TsPS, THANK YOU!

Added after 2 minutes 3 seconds

The same thing happened to me today, I blinked distantly and everything went blank.

Does not work - dimensions, low beam, high beam, fog lights, instrument and interior lighting.

It works - emergency lights, turns, reverse, stops, rear fog lights and everything else.

I checked the fuses in the cabin and under the hood, visually all are intact.

We’ve already written about relays here, can you look at which ones in more detail, what are they responsible for? I think the DSP is not to blame, it turns on the rear fogs, which means electricity is passing through it.

Maybe there is a power wire in nature that is responsible only for lighting?

So weak currents flow through the DSP (the wiring there is thin), and then to the relays.

And I just put forward a theory about the wire.

Basic recommendations for replacing lamps

In order for the light to be of high quality, you need not only to carry out the work correctly, but also to use high-quality products, let's start with this.

How to choose a quality option

To avoid making mistakes when purchasing, remember a few simple but useful recommendations:

• It is important that the product meets the required parameters. The model we are considering uses lamps with an H7 base; the power required is 55 Watt, voltage 12 Volts.

Hella products have earned a good reputation among car enthusiasts

• It is very important to choose a high-quality option, so low price should in no case be the determining factor; most often, cheap products do not last long and do not work at all as stated. Give preference to well-known brands that have been on the market for a long time.
• You should not purchase products that do not meet factory requirements. For example, the use of xenon is contrary to traffic regulations, or if you purchase halogen lamps of too high power, the quality of light is unlikely to improve, but the load on the wiring will increase, which can lead to accelerated wear. (See also the article Gazelle wiring diagram: features.)

The low beam is always located closer to the bumper, the high beam is closer to the radiator