We notice a flat tire or a “sick” starter immediately and take urgent measures to eliminate the problem. And a tired hood lock, according to most car enthusiasts, “does not affect speed.” Indeed, it does not affect, but many are terribly annoyed by repeated clapping, nervously tugging at the handle in the hope that Sesame will finally open. And all this happens, as a rule, at the most inopportune moments. It seems like a small thing, but an irritated driver is a threat on the road, and for absolutely all road users.
Or a hood that opens of its own accord while driving... Even at low speed this can create serious problems.
Let’s not put off such a “trifle” as adjustment. Moreover, all operations can be performed independently, without resorting to the help of service station workers, and most importantly, completely free of charge!
And this happens sometimes!
In what cases will adjustment help?
Let's list the main malfunctions that you can fix yourself by just adjusting the car hood lock:
- The hood has become difficult to close; it requires repeated slamming and significant force to close it
- It has become problematic to open it (we pull and pull, but the reaction is zero)
- Doesn’t “bounce” when the cable is pulled; when closing, an extraneous knock of metal on metal is heard
- Rattling when the engine is running, in the pits.
Since it is almost impossible to describe all the models in one article, let’s take as an example a masterpiece of the domestic automobile industry - the VAZ car. Whatever they say, Lada cars roam the expanses of the former CIS more often than any foreign car. And, given their survivability, I think this will last for a long time... And based on the principle that this procedure, on almost all cars, comes down to similar actions (if you do not take into account the design features of the locks), you can derive a general adjustment formula. Let's start adjusting the locks, for example, for VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099.
Tools
To adjust we need:
19mm wrench.
Open-end or spanner wrench
Screwdriver, I usually use a "magic" set.
Screwdriver with replaceable bits
Oil for lubricating the lock (only liquid oil is suitable; “solidol”, “litol” and other similar lubricants are not suitable, since they harden at low temperatures, which makes the mechanism difficult to operate).
Machine oil
Desire, some free time, a head and two arms (preferably straight).
That's all we need to work
The adjustment process on the selected car model
The device of the hood lock VAZ 2108/2109/21099
To begin, open and secure the hood. Let's pay attention to the lock and try to understand the principle of its operation.
Hood lock device
The photo shows the main elements of the castle:
- Lock latch spring
- Lock-nut
- Latch
- Safety hook
- Safety hook handle.
From what we saw, it follows that after we pulled the opening handle in the cabin, the cable opens the latch, which releases the lock latch. Thanks to the latch spring, the hood “jumps” up, but it is still held half-open by the safety hook. And only by pressing the handle of the safety hook, we can fully open it and gain access to the engine compartment. Quite a reliable system. At first sight…
Adjustment, although not a very difficult operation, requires patience and accuracy. Sometimes you have to repeat the same jewelry movement many times until everything starts working as it should!
Vertical adjustment of the lock
If the hood does not want to close normally (you slam it, put pressure on it, but it still closes with difficulty, or does not lock in the closed position at all), or a rattling noise appears when driving on our perfectly smooth roads (sometimes it is noticeable even just when the engine), then adjustment in the vertical direction is necessary. Namely, adjusting the length of the lock latch.
To do this, use a 19 mm wrench to loosen the lock nut on the latch, holding the latch itself from turning with a flat-head screwdriver.
Latch length adjustment
If the hood is poorly or not at all fixed in the closed position, then you need to slightly increase the length of the latch, which we will achieve by unscrewing it with a screwdriver.
If the hood rattles, on the contrary, you need to shorten the latch by tightening it several turns inward. The required latch length is determined experimentally.
Got rid of the problem? Then tighten the locknut (don’t forget to hold the latch with a screwdriver), check it again and rejoice!
Horizontal adjustment of the lock
If there are problems with opening, or if there is a metallic knock when closing, the lock requires horizontal adjustment.
Adjusting the latch position
To do this, we also loosen the lock nut and slightly move (not twist, but move) the latch in the desired direction.
When adjusted correctly, everything should close and open well. Without any effort. Ideally, the hood should slam shut completely when released from a height of 20-30 cm and snap open when pulled by the drive handle in the cabin, only being secured by a safety hook.
Cost and equipment
The pricing policy is quite pleasant, but that's not all. So that you can get into a car that has a large number of additional options and functions, the manufacturer offers a variety of packages. When the configurations have undergone drastic changes, with a 1.4 engine, the buyer can only get a 5-speed manual or a four-speed automatic transmission. When purchasing an iron horse with a 1.6 liter engine, you will receive a six-speed automatic transmission.
More on the topic: Test drive Solaris sedan video
Actually, we can put an end to this. As you can see from the photographs of the Hyundai Solaris, white cars are very popular today. This is not surprising, because the color is very relevant and practical.
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Why doesn't the hood of the VAZ 2114 close? Full list of reasons
The search for possible reasons why the hood of the VAZ 2114 (and other siblings in the model range) does not close is not uncommon for Lada owners. A seemingly insignificant breakdown can lead to quite unpleasant consequences. Opening the hood while driving is not the most fun and certainly undesirable event. A temporary solution, inherited from our grandfathers, can be a wire that secures the lid.
However, it’s constantly inconvenient to drive like this, and it’s scary to leave a partially closed car under houses: you can be almost 100% sure that cunning people will at least remove the battery. And then, unresolved problems can cause the opposite situation: the hood will jam tightly, and in order to get into the car, you will have to take radical measures, which usually lead to expensive repairs.
Why doesn't the hood of the VAZ 2114 close? In fact, there are not many reasons for this. And most of them are eliminated on their own, although sometimes outside participation may be necessary.
What are the dimensions of Bulldors entrance doors?
Bulldors metal structures have a clear geometry. Therefore, if the dimensions are observed, they will definitely “fit” into the opening.
The size of the opening space free of charge by a measurer from the World of Steel Doors store.
According to configuration, the plant offers the following models:
The standard door sizes of this domestic brand are 860×1900 mm, 880×2000 mm, 960×2050 mm, 1000×2100 mm, 960×2100 mm, 880×2050 mm. The largest representative of the model range is a design with a size of 1200×2050 mm.
The plant also offers customers models of non-standard dimensions.
Steel block weight
The weight of the door depends on many factors, including the size and thickness of the frame and leaf, filling, finishing and decorative elements. Simple metal products weigh 55-65 kg. Models that are distinguished by a high level of reliability and burglary resistance and excellent performance characteristics weigh 110-120 kg. This must be taken into account when choosing a metal structure, since installing a heavy entrance block will require strengthening the walls.
Order doors from in with suitable characteristics at an affordable cost.
Just an adjustment
Often the hood begins to close poorly or refuses to close at all due to a violation of the position of the lid or its latch. Moreover, the latter can move both in the vertical and horizontal directions. The solution to the problem is simple, and for all manipulations you only need a screwdriver and a 13mm wrench.
If the height adjustment is broken, you have to apply significant force to close the hood. And even if you managed to slam the lid, it still moves: a noticeable play remains, and while moving the hood bounces and rattles. To fix the problem, you need to loosen the locknut on the latch, holding it with a screwdriver so that it does not turn along with the fastener.
If the latch has moved horizontally, a hard blow is felt when closing the lid, and opening becomes problematic. Again, the locknut is loosened, after which the latch moves to the desired position. Before pinching the fastener, you need to check the ease of closure and its tightness; if the desired result is not achieved, the manipulations are repeated.
If the lid simply does not fit into its allotted space or the latch does not engage when closed, the hood will need to be adjusted in relation to the fenders and latch. The lid hinges; the mounting bolts are loosened. Just don’t unscrew them too much so that the hood doesn’t dangle, but sits quite firmly in place. The lid is carefully lowered; The main thing here is not to latch the lock. There are equal gaps along the edges. To do this, just move the hood slightly in the desired direction.
To be sure that the cracks are even, you can make 4 measuring pegs of the required thickness. It is very convenient to use wine corks for this (not plastic ones): they are easy to cut and do not scratch the body. When you are sure that the gaps are the same, carefully lift the hood and fix the bolts on the hinges.
The end of all such work should be lubrication of the adjusted parts and checking the functionality of the cover with the degree of tightening of the fasteners. Do not overdo it with the latter: an overtightened locknut can prevent the hood from opening freely.
Body 2115 from all sides
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The 15th model sedan looks much more modern compared to its competitors. Plastic, lightweight but durable parts reliably protect the body from damage and corrosion.
Among the changes that affected the sedan and its body design, the following points can be highlighted:
- Additional brake signal. It is built quite successfully into the spoiler;
- Innovative rear lighting technology, characterized by the presence of dual brake signals and “dimensions”;
- A more advanced security system, as indicated by the body shape and the availability of additional options.
Thus, the modified shape of the sedan's trunk lid made it possible to reduce the loading height, which the car owners were very happy about. Loading things into the 99th model is much more inconvenient than in the 2115.
In addition, the VAZ 2115 differs from the 99th in the rounded shape of the hood. The front fenders also received a more oval shape on the 15th than on the 99th. The bumpers are painted in body color, there is a spoiler, side skirts, moldings and much more. The new interior and electrical equipment turned out especially good.
In a word, in general the design turned out to be significantly better than on the 99th. It fully complies with the style requirements of the time, as well as the main trends in the automotive industry. While the body of the 15th model has changed as a whole, the doors and roof remain the same as those of its progenitor.
The 15th model can also boast of a difference in terms of interior comfort. A console has appeared between the front seats, and the steering column is better adjustable. The heating and on-board control systems also look more efficient than before.
The trunk of the sedan is also very roomy. In a word, everything was done by the manufacturer at the highest level, and the car is ready for long journeys.
The 15th model received some similarities in details from the hatchback of the fourteenth model. In particular, this is a dashboard with a stylish and more modern design. But from the G8, the 15th model inherited various components and assemblies, including elements of the chassis.
The car is equipped with a supporting structure body. This is a 5-door sedan equipped with a 1.5 liter gasoline unit. The main geometric dimensions of the 15th model are shown in the table below.
It will be interesting to know that the sedan of the 15th model is the founder of a new VAZ direction called Samara-2. The cars that came out after the VAZ 2115 turned out to be somewhat similar. All are united by an attractive exterior design, extensive technical capabilities, and high sales compared to competitors.
The 15th model was restyled more than once. It was possible to improve the technical equipment and functionality of the car.
It is noteworthy that the manufacturer initially intended to change not only the exterior of the body and its trim on the Samara-2 models, but also to improve the suspension, transmission and braking system. The body dimensions of the VAZ 2115 were changed without fail, which is what you expect from a sedan.
Ultimately, such a full-fledged restyling failed. Only the body has undergone changes. But it gave a greater effect than expected. Streamlined body shapes eliminated all the shortcomings of the angular shapes and outlines of the former exterior.
If on the same 14th model the body was more quickly subjected to corrosion and damage precisely because of the unsuccessful body shape, then on the 15th model the shape already acts as an advantage. In some way, the body dimensions of the VAZ 2115, which turned out to be quite successful, also play a role in this.
As mentioned above, it has become much more convenient to load things into the trunk of a sedan, which was facilitated by a decrease in the landing height. On the 15th model it is on the same level as the bumper.
| Body type | sedan |
| Modifications | 2113, 2114 |
| Body structure | carrier |
| Body frame composition | base, sidewalls, roof, parts of a non-separable structure, mounted body components and interior parts |
| Composition of hinged units | doors, hood, trunk lid, fenders, front and rear bumpers, radiator trim |
| Length | Equal to 4330 mm. In this case, 860 mm falls on the distance from the front to the middle of the front wheel, 2460 mm from the middle of the front wheel to the middle of the rear wheel, and 1010 mm from the middle of the rear wheel to the rear. |
| Height | 1420 mm |
| Width between front rear view mirrors | 1979 mm |
| Width between front wheels | 1400 mm |
| Width between the extreme points of the rear bumper | 1650 mm |
| Width between rear wheels | 1370 mm |
Other Possible Causes
If the problem is not a violation of debugging, it means that one of the parts of the locking system has broken. Let's not consider the option of the integrity of the lock: I think you checked it first.
One of the most likely failures is fatigue of the metal from which the spring inserted into the radiator “TV” is made. As a result, it weakens and stops working as it should. Its weakening can often be easily detected by simply pulling on it: the resistance will be quite weak. The spring is changed, the hood fixation is restored.
The next element that quite often breaks or becomes loose is the support tins under the spring. In this case, you can close the hood, but this requires 2 people: one pulls the handle that opens the lid, the second slams the hood, and only after that it closes. The fact is that when installed, the spring should not close the entrance to the lock guide in the center; it should be shifted to the side and cover this sector by 30 percent, no more.
If the condition is not met, the support washer bends and there is no engagement. You need to straighten the tin and place a washer under it while tightening the cable.
A way to eliminate the last defect may be to shorten the cable. However, it is better for a non-professional not to do this: there is a high risk of damaging the cable itself. If you decide to go this route, it is better to go to a service station. We have listed the main reasons why the hood on a VAZ 2114 does not close; Let's hope that our advice will help you improve the situation. And it’s even better if they are not useful to you at all due to the absence of such a problem.
Using an open door as a support
A car door can act as a support in several cases:
- A driver or passenger gets out of the car, talking with someone, he wants to lean on his elbow to make it more comfortable to stand. And an open door is a support.
- Often people lean on the handle of the car when getting in or out of it.
No matter how much weight a person has, relying on a door or handle will soon cause it to sag. Many drivers even leave the car doors open when it is parked in the garage. The argument is that rubber seals do not deteriorate this way. But every time someone passes by, someone will certainly lean on her. The result is sagging doors.
