Ball joint viburnum which one to choose

Replacing ball joints on Kalina

The most important component of a modern car is ball joints. This is a component of the suspension that secures the wheel hub and suspension arms, which, by limiting the mobility of the arms, determines the fixed movement of the vehicle.

Today it is difficult to imagine a car without this component, but forty years ago there was no trace of ball joints.

Then, instead of them, a root mechanism was used, less reliable, more complex, limiting the technical capabilities of the car.

The first ball joints were created by Italian designers and installed on the legendary Fiat model. Now supports are installed on all cars, including those from the domestic manufacturer, VAZ.

Next, we will talk about what ball joints are, what malfunctions occur, and how to replace components, using the Lada Kalina as an example. Let's get to work.

Spherical bearing

A ball joint is a connecting unit that secures the steering wheel hub and suspension arms. The unit fixes the position of the wheel, which allows the hub to rotate, which in turn determines the stable movement of the car.

The support is represented by a cone-shaped part with a movable spherical tip. Over the years, the supports have changed their design. At first these were stamped parts welded together.

Stamping was replaced by cast and then collapsible supports. In addition, the units come with grease nipples, serviceable and maintenance-free. Each type has its own design features and is suitable for a specific model.

A modern support of any type, including that installed on the Lada Kalina we are considering, has the following design:

• frame;
• a cone-shaped element, popularly called a “finger”;
• Anther protects the body from dust and moisture.

All these parts are usually made of steel, since they are in constant motion, friction and overheating. And only the recess of the support body is covered with a polymer material, most often plastic.

Helpful information:

You can get professional advice when selecting a product by calling (calls within Russia are free).

The ball joint is one of the most important components of the front suspension of front-wheel drive cars, including the Lada Kalina. The main purpose of the ball joint is to be the connecting link between the steering wheel hub and the suspension arms. That is, during vertical movement, the hub rotates, but the horizontal position of the wheel remains unchanged. The condition of the ball joint should be carefully monitored. Otherwise, there is a high probability of serious consequences, especially if the breakdown occurs while driving. If the ball joint fails, the wheel will turn outward and the car is guaranteed to fall onto the wing. If you imagine such a situation at high speed, there is a high probability that its development will lead to a serious accident.

Malfunctions

Despite the fact that the support parts of the Lada Kalina are made of durable steel, the unit, which experiences the most powerful loads, fails from time to time, because it is the suspension that experiences the vibrations that come from driving on a bad, bumpy road, and the suspension also absorbs a significant part of the weight of the machine, which leads to wear of parts.

Replacing a ball joint on a VAZ 2110 2112, Kalina, Granta, Priora, 2108 2109, 2114 2115

Video instructions for replacing balls

for VAZ 2110-2112,
Kalina
and Granta, Priora and other front-wheel drive...

Replacing the ball joint of a vase and how to determine wear

The Auto_Repair channel will help you troubleshoot your car with your own hands...

1. Most often, the contacting surfaces in the supports wear out, which are in constant friction. Mechanical damage and overheating lead to deformation: the formation of a gap from the pin to the body, chips, cracks. For this reason, parts malfunction, rotate, even hang out in the body, and as a result, have the most negative impact on the operation of the suspension. And since the stability of the car depends on the suspension, we can say for sure: faults in the ball joints lead to loss of controllability, and, therefore, to an accident.
2. In addition to deformation of the contacting surfaces, damage also occurs in the boot; rupture of the boot also has a bad effect on the operation of the entire system, because in this case, all the dirt, dust and water that falls on the suspension while driving gets inside, which causes corrosion processes and rapid wear. components.
3. Lack of lubrication also leads to the formation of mechanical deformations. Therefore, you must always monitor the lubrication level in all systems, without losing sight of the suspension.

Changing the ball joint on a Lada Kalina with your own hands

In the design of a car, the ball joint plays a very important role, since it bears all the load that the vehicle experiences. Also an important function is the level of inclination of the wheels. On the Lada Kalina, the factory ball joint is not very reliable, so many car enthusiasts replace the standard part with an analogue one.

Video on replacing a ball joint

The video material talks about replacing the ball joint of the Lada Kalina and the features of the process.

How to choose the right one

Professionals say that it is better to give preference to original spare parts, since only they can guarantee impeccable quality, reliability and durability. But this option is expensive, which is why a significant part of motorists pay attention to analogues of original spare parts.

But here you need to be very careful: do not trust unknown manufacturing companies and do not buy components from unverified points on the market.

Before buying a product, it is necessary to conduct a thorough visual inspection: there should be no traces of welding on the body. Also, the parts should not undergo heat treatment, as can be seen from the dirty gray color of the surface.

But that’s not all: manufacturers of fakes sell products with a perfectly smooth surface, but! There is no emblem or quality mark here.

Quality can be determined by the hologram on the case and packaging in steel or red shades, with a mandatory set of fasteners.

The optimal price for VAZ supports is 500 rubles. True, not so expensive, but if you want to purchase tuning parts, then the price will be two zeros more - in the region of 20,000 to 48,000 rubles, from Pasker.

Replacement

1. The first step is to soak the fasteners in WD-40 engine oil for a day to make the boiled parts easier to remove. It is advisable to do the impregnation twice, one and a half to two hours apart, and leave until the next day.
2. Now we begin the most difficult dismantling work. Raise the front of the car and remove the wheel.
3. Unscrew the fasteners holding the supports. There are only two bolts that can be removed with a 12mm wrench.

• We dismantle the stabilizer strut.
• To remove the supports, you must first bend the lever down a little.
• We arm ourselves with a puller and press the part out of the lever. An analogue of a puller can be an ordinary crowbar, which is likely to be found in every home of the real owner.
• But when pressing out the support, you need to be extremely careful: you can damage the boot, which is quite fragile, especially on the Lada Kalina.
• After dismantling, we install a new support and reassemble in the reverse order.

Now we do the same with the rear supports.

Of course, repair work on the suspension is not as simple as, for example, replacing a steering rack or muffler, but if you use competent instructions and patience, everything will work out. We wish you good luck and good roads!

The most important component of a modern car is ball joints. This is a component of the suspension that secures the wheel hub and suspension arms, which, by limiting the mobility of the arms, determines the fixed movement of the car.

Today it is difficult to imagine a car without this component, but forty years ago there was no trace of ball joints.

Then, instead of them, a root mechanism was used, less reliable, more complex, limiting the technical capabilities of the car.

Read also:  Comparison of Lada Vesta SV and SV Cross - main differences

The first ball joints were created by Italian designers and installed on the legendary Fiat model. Now supports are installed on all cars, including those from the domestic manufacturer, VAZ.

Next, we will talk about what ball joints are, what malfunctions occur, and how to replace components, using the Lada Kalina as an example. Let's get to work.

Ball joint for Lada Kalina: selection and replacement - AutoExpert

In the design of a car, the ball joint plays a very important role, since it bears all the load that the vehicle experiences. Also an important function is the level of inclination of the wheels. On the Lada Kalina, the factory ball joint is not very reliable, so many car enthusiasts replace the standard part with an analogue one.

to replace the ball joint

The material talks about replacing the ball joint of the Lada Kalina and the features of the process.

Replacing ball joints yourself

Today I decided to write an article on replacing ball joints, although mine were still in good condition, I still made a small material for the article. Just in case, I bought a new support, if suddenly upon removal it turns out that there are problems with it. To perform this Kalina repair, I needed the following tools and accessories:

The procedure for removing the old and installing a new ball joint on the Lada Kalina

So, first of all, we tighten the handbrake and tear off the bolts of the front wheel on the side where the replacement is planned. Then we lift the front part of the car with a jack and finally unscrew the wheel mounting bolts and remove it:

After this, unscrew the ball pin nut using a regular 19-socket wrench:

Now you can insert the puller, as shown in the photo below, and twist the bolt until the support pin pops out of its place:

Now you can unscrew the two support mounting bolts, which are located at the bottom edges, using a TORX E12 socket for this:

Now you can press the lever down with a pry bar to remove the support from its place. Or you can do it a little differently: place a brick under the brake disc, and carefully lowering the jack, thereby unloading the suspension arm, and the rack rises slightly up:

Now the ball becomes free and can be removed without any problems:

We put the ball pin in its place:

Then tighten the nut to a torque of 66-82 Nm. Then you need to fit the holes in the support to the holes on the steering knuckle and tighten the bolts.

I’ll say right away that I suffered a lot with this procedure, since I didn’t have a powerful pry bar at hand to pull the lever down.

I had to use a light mounting spatula to manipulate the lever and change the position of the stand while raising or lowering the car with a jack.

As a result, after some effort, we managed to align the holes, but then, even with complete alignment, it can be problematic to tighten the bolts, so you should be patient if problems arise in this matter.

Perhaps in your case it will be possible to make everything simpler without putting in extra effort.

As they say, it doesn’t happen every time, yesterday I changed it on the nine (on my experimental one), and everything happened there in 5 minutes without pry bars or other manipulations with the jack.

By the way, I forgot to mention the price of new supports; in our city you can buy one for from 250 to 400 rubles, depending on the manufacturer: AvtoVAZ, Lemforder, Fenox, etc.

Recommendations for replacing ball joints and tie rod ends on Lada Kalina

How to replace ball and tie rod ends on Kalina

This page will discuss the reasons for the failure of ball and tie rod ends on Lada Kalina cars , and show step by step the progress of their replacement. Information on how to diagnose the problem can be found here and here. Below we will consider in detail the procedure for replacing old spare parts with new ones.

Set of necessary tools:

Replacement of ball joints for Lada Kalina. Instructions

Replacing ball and steering ends on Kalina

Also check out

Replacing ball joints and tie rod ends on Lada Kalina

Step-by-step replacement of tie rod ends for Lada Kalina

Unscrew the tip clockwise

Now that the ball is installed and the ends have been replaced, you can begin assembly.

Provided that everything is done correctly, the backlash and knocks that indicate a malfunction of the chassis should disappear.

Removing and replacing a ball joint on a Lada Kalina (photo + video)

Hello, in this article you will learn how to change ball joints on a Lada Kalina with your own hands. As a rule, when the ball joint wears out, a knock appears in the suspension, this is especially evident on frequent and small irregularities; it is also possible that the car will begin to wobble a little when driving in a straight line or in turns.

First, we drive the car into the pit, loosen the wheel bolts and jack up the side of the car from which the ball joint on Kalina will be replaced. Next, remove the wheel and clean the ball and its 3 attachment points from dirt.

Spherical bearing

A ball joint is a connecting unit that secures the steering wheel hub and suspension arms. The unit fixes the position of the wheel, which allows the hub to rotate, which in turn determines the stable movement of the car.

The support is represented by a cone-shaped part with a movable spherical tip. Over the years, the supports have changed their design. At first these were stamped parts welded together.

Stamping was replaced by cast and then collapsible supports. In addition, the units come with grease nipples, serviceable and maintenance-free. Each type has its own design features and is suitable for a specific model.

A modern support of any type, including that installed on the Lada Kalina we are considering, has the following design:

All these parts are usually made of steel, since they are in constant motion, friction and overheating. And only the recess of the support body is covered with a polymer material, most often plastic.

Major breakdowns

This item is made of durable materials. However, it is under heavy load and therefore becomes unusable over time. The most common breakdowns that occur with ball joints are:

1. Mechanical damage in contacting surfaces. As a result of the work, an increased gap is formed between the finger and the body itself, as well as cracks and chips. Because of this, scrolling occurs, and subsequently free movement of parts inside the case. With such a malfunction, further movement is highly not recommended, since controllability deteriorates significantly, which can lead to dire consequences;
2. Cuts and tears in the boot. This problem can damage even a fully functional ball joint. The fact is that the boot is necessary to protect against dirt, dust and moisture. If it is torn, then all this will penetrate into the mechanism and, over time, disrupt its operation;
3. Lack of lubricants. Because of this, there is not enough friction, so the parts hit each other, creating cracks and chips.

If even one of the above failures is detected, then the ball joint needs to be replaced. First of all, the safety of movement depends on this.

If the boot ruptures, you need to carefully examine the ball itself to understand what condition it is in. If it is good, then you only need to replace the clip, but if not, then you will need to change the entire mechanism.

If there is a lack of lubrication, it is also necessary to inspect the internal condition of the ball. If its parts are intact, then you just need to add more lubricant. This must be done as quickly as possible, since without lubrication the parts will wear out a lot. When installing a new ball joint, you also need to check for lubrication.

Malfunctions

Despite the fact that the support parts of the Lada Kalina are made of durable steel, the unit, which experiences the most powerful loads, fails from time to time, because it is the suspension that experiences the vibrations that come from driving on a bad, bumpy road, and the suspension also absorbs a significant part of the weight of the machine, which leads to wear of parts.

1. Most often, the contacting surfaces in the supports wear out, which are in constant friction. Mechanical damage and overheating lead to deformation: the formation of a gap from the pin to the body, chips, cracks. For this reason, parts malfunction, rotate, even hang out in the body, and as a result, have the most negative impact on the operation of the suspension. And since the stability of the car depends on the suspension, we can say for sure: faults in the ball joints lead to loss of controllability, and, therefore, to an accident.
2. In addition to deformation of the contacting surfaces, damage also occurs in the boot; rupture of the boot also has a bad effect on the operation of the entire system, because in this case, all the dirt, dust and water that falls on the suspension while driving gets inside, which causes corrosion processes and rapid wear. components.
3. Lack of lubrication also leads to the formation of mechanical deformations. Therefore, you must always monitor the lubrication level in all systems, without losing sight of the suspension.

What can cause ball joints to become unusable?

There are only two factors that worsen the condition of ball joints, but both of them can be attributed to mechanical stress.

First

– this is dust and dirt that penetrates through a torn boot. When driving over uneven surfaces, the rubber boot that protects the unit's lubrication can easily be damaged. When dirt or moisture gets in, the lubrication properties deteriorate and sand gets into the smooth part of the hinge. After that, it gets scratched and starts to play.

Second factor

- These are shock loads. Although the product can withstand a wide range of impacts, it still has its limits. With frequent impacts and horizontal displacements, the product may break off or gaps may appear in the smooth part of the hinge. This also leads to backlash and subsequent destruction of the support.

How to choose the right one

Professionals say that it is better to give preference to original spare parts, since only they can guarantee impeccable quality, reliability and durability. But this option is expensive, which is why a significant part of motorists pay attention to analogues of original spare parts.

But here you need to be very careful: do not trust unknown manufacturing companies and do not buy components from unverified points on the market.

Before buying a product, it is necessary to conduct a thorough visual inspection: there should be no traces of welding on the body. Also, the parts should not undergo heat treatment, as can be seen from the dirty gray color of the surface.

But that’s not all: manufacturers of fakes sell products with a perfectly smooth surface, but! There is no emblem or quality mark here.

Replacement

1. The first step is to soak the fasteners in WD-40 engine oil for a day to make the boiled parts easier to remove. It is advisable to do the impregnation twice, one and a half to two hours apart, and leave until the next day.
2. Now we begin the most difficult dismantling work. Raise the front of the car and remove the wheel.
3. Unscrew the fasteners holding the supports. There are two bolts in total, which can be removed with a 12 key.

Now we do the same with the rear supports.

Of course, repair work on the suspension is not as simple as, for example, replacing a steering rack or muffler, but if you use competent instructions and patience, everything will work out. We wish you good luck and good roads!

Somewhere at the end of 18 thousand, I began to notice a knocking sound from the right front wheel when driving over bumps. An inspection from below on the lift revealed a malfunction of the right ball joint. And this is for 19,000 km! Our roads, like everywhere else in Russia, are a hole on a hole, and the quality of the ball joint has probably let us down.

I made the replacement myself (I have experience from the previous car).

I won’t describe the process, because... You can find many articles about replacement on the Internet. I'll tell you some of the nuances.

That's all, good roads and quality spare parts to everyone.

Price tag: 330 ₽ Mileage 19000 km

Comments 21

bullshit, I changed it to 42,000:

1. Both ball joints (the left one was knocking hard, I changed both at once);

2. Lever bushings (dried out and cracked. There was play on the levers);

3. Both crabs have arrived (the end of silent blocks has come);

4. Both strut supports with bearings have arrived. Moreover, after replacement, two days later they started knocking again (an autopsy showed that the new bearing had shattered). The supports are Grant-made, but you need to take into account the specifics of the car (with or without an amplifier);

5. At the same time I changed the clutch (I installed Valeo. Let's see, maybe it lasts longer). With a squeeze ass, he is on grants and K2 is his own, special (I barely found it, no one really knows anything either on the market or in services). I bought a clutch kit, the release one didn’t fit, I had to buy it separately.

Well, the rear hubs hum as long as I don’t touch them.

In general, the car is not bad, passable. But such a scope of work for 42,000 is overkill! And this is in St. Petersburg with more or less smooth roads))

In terms of money, everything cost about 25 thousand

Good luck, bro. But it’s really sad that everything is somehow with you (((Let’s say it has fallen apart globally.

I replaced both ball joints at 18 t.km, the roads take their toll (One is completely dead, the other is still ok, but I’m used to it. If we change it, then change both

I'll see how long the second one lasts, for comparison.

Father has a grant. Drives carefully. We also changed 1 left ball joint at 29 thousand km. The car is 3.5 years old. The other right ball joint is normal. And this one is dangling broken. Such quality of details.

Yes, the quality is let down. That's why they don't take our cars.

79,500 relatives left.

Also, when I screwed the ball to the knuckle for the first time, I fiddled with it for a very long time, constantly breaking it... The next time I ground off the thread a little so that the bolt would first get into the holes and only then go along the thread, it almost turned out to be a magazine bolt, as in the photo) Advice for future ))

A good suggestion, I'll take note for the future. Thank you.

Strangely strange. On viburnums the balls seem to be a reliable unit.

I'm surprised myself. It seems to be a reliable unit, but it flew out unexpectedly quickly.

Strangely strange. On viburnums the balls seem to be a reliable unit.

I have 24000 for both replacements

Brachin apparently. I’m 65, while my relatives are still standing. There are no backlashes or knocks yet. The brother has over 70 miles, his relatives are still standing (((

Strangely strange. On viburnums the balls seem to be a reliable unit.

No, lately they've been going around so much.

A-fi-get, well, how sad it is (((After the classics, I was really glad there was such a resource...

On the classic, it’s been 2 months since I changed the top one (one) and less than a year ago the second one - that’s it, both are already knocking(

The last Kalina lasted 1 year or 20,000. Changed it.

Have you tried the track? After a bunch of tried shit, it took me two years. Well, the Belebey ones were also quite good.

I tried, but back when I had an A, and that was 15 years ago. Super. I can't find it now. Or didn't try :-)

Lada Kalina Station Wagon 2008, 81 l. With. - spare parts

Cars for sale

Lada Kalina, 2012

Lada Kalina, 2009

Lada Kalina, 2011

Lada Kalina, 2012

Comments 30

which ball joints did you choose and how were they diagnosed, thank you

So far I’ve been driving the Samarazapchast ball joints, they rattle at low speeds on uneven surfaces. I’ll probably install a Lemferder - the reviews about them are more positive.

I installed cedar, the lemferder had to be ordered, the price was the same, I bought the ones that were in the store

factory ones passed 62tk removed in excellent condition. replaced it with a bzak factory.

I installed lemforder balls on my last Kalinka, they performed excellently)

Try to remember where they were made? Nowadays only China makes it, but before it was made in Germany.

Yes, I didn’t look too closely) there were all sorts of German words on the box) I didn’t even buy them myself) they were in the store from the craftsmen) they said they were good) they didn’t deceive me)

Try to remember where they were made? Nowadays only China makes it, but before it was made in Germany.

So why is China confusing?

Same garbage, enough for 20,000 miles! I installed it, I don’t remember which ones. All front-wheel drive vehicles had at least 100,000 miles on them before. Although I sold two viburnums for 65,000.

what they put on the conveyor belt is not at all what they sell and they walk normally

At my last viburnum, there were conveyor belts. Result: 20,000 km and the bells have become like bells. I'm surprised myself.

So, just like me, I was unlucky.

I drove the car 35t after purchase, I haven’t changed the ball joints yet. Mileage is only 123t. The mechanic I sometimes get serviced by says it’s still relatives.

Relatives go for a long time, if you're lucky. But I was unlucky - the mileage is 127, and the ball joints have already been changed 5 times.

I had no luck with the tie rod ends; I changed them twice in 35 tons of mileage.

Kedr, Belmag run fine. If imported, then lymphedore so that the catalog number ends in 01, they are fine if other numbers are better not to take and TRW is good

They also advised me to use lymphders, they say there are no problems with them.

Kedr, Belmag run fine. If imported, then lymphedore so that the catalog number ends in 01, they are fine if other numbers are better not to take and TRW is good

I just looked through the catalogs and didn’t find a limper with 01 at the end, only 02 is there

I don’t have them since 01, now I installed them in 02 that summer, now they say they need to change them (I also don’t know what to install... apparently a consumable)

Hello!

Somehow, almost immediately after purchasing Kalina 2, my left (driver’s) ball joint creaked.
It was NOT replaced under warranty
.
We installed a ball joint from AvtoVAZ. At almost 60,000 km, the right ball joint began to knock (especially after a long period of inactivity). Self-diagnosis revealed play in the right (passenger) ball joint. After choosing for a long time, I decided to install TRACK ball joints of the “TRS” 2108 series on the Lada Kalina 2 (2194)
.

From the manufacturer of TRS series ball joints:

“The TRS series ball joints are intended for those who are interested in motorsports, for professional racers, as well as for those whose car is used in professional activities. The developed new design of the liner has greater rigidity and has grooves for lubrication and removal of wear products, which significantly increases the service life of the product.

The use of a solid forged body eliminates the possibility of its deformation and the appearance of fatigue cracks, unlike a body made of thin-sheet stamped parts. The ball joint is assembled by plastically deforming the upper part of the housing. As a result, high values ​​of force to pull the ball pin out of the body are achieved (2.5 times higher than the standard), and high safety during operation is ensured. The original design of the liner is more rigid (compared to serial products); it is equipped with grooves for lubrication and removal of wear products. Lubricating molybdenum disulfide on the ball pin sphere also helps reduce wear on the assembly. The sealing rings of the protective cover ensure complete sealing of the unit. The material of the protective cover made of polyurethane provides strength 3-4 times higher than that of rubber, while fully maintaining elasticity. Operable at temperatures from -65°C to +110°C. The housing coating protects the product from corrosion during operation. The actual mileage reaches 100,000 km.

Ball joint replacement process

When you have decided on a spare part, you can carry out the replacement operation. So, let's look at the step-by-step process of changing the ball joint on Kalina:

The ball mount is marked with an arrow.

We unscrew the stabilizer mount for easy replacement of the Kalina ball joint

Peculiarities

Consequences of untimely replacement of the ball joint

Harsh operating conditions, poor road surfaces, loads and passengers place a lot of stress and responsibility on the ball joint. Therefore, the condition of this node must be monitored regularly.

The entire load does not go to the ball joint itself, but to a small ball, which can fall out if worn out and worn out. If you remember, not so long ago you could see a Lada car on the road with a fallen ball joint.

How to check a ball joint Several ways - useful information

• Drive the car onto an inspection hole or overpass. A flat surface is possible, but access to the bottom of the car is desirable;
• Squeeze the handbrake, turn on neutral speed, jam the rear wheels with special shoes;
• Jack up the left and right front wheels alternately, holding one hand at the top of the tire and the other at the bottom. With some effort, try to shake the wheel up and down. If you hear a slight knock and play, then it is necessary to urgently replace the ball joint. Otherwise, driving onto the highway is extremely dangerous. If there is no play, then you can proceed further.

• Natural wear and tear of vehicle chassis components;
• Exceeding the maximum permissible loads;
• Exposure to the negative effects of water, cold, dust, dirt due to damage to the protective boot on the ball joint;
• The actual absence of lubrication inside the product, which leads to a wedge.

• A characteristic and distinct knocking sound when driving over uneven surfaces and potholes;
• When turning the steering wheel, a grinding noise is heard and the force with which the turn is performed is increased;
• The car doesn't handle the road well. It feels like it's fluttering rather than moving;
• Uneven and rapid wear of car tires.

• Drive the car into the inspection pit of the garage;
• Putting on the handbrake, securing the rear wheels with shoes, you can turn on the first speed for reliability. Jack up the wheel;
• Some take off the wheels, some don't, depending on who you like. In principle they do not interfere;
• Armed with two keys on “17”, we unscrew the fastening of the ball joint to the spar. Just two bolts;
• For convenience, it is better to turn the steering wheel left or right. Using keys “14” we unscrew the support mount directly on the hub itself. Using a hammer and a wooden insert, carefully knock out the support itself from the saddle without damaging the brake hoses;
• Before installing a new one, you should walk a little with WD-40 liquid to remove rust. After wiping the socket with a dry cloth, lubricate it a little with Litol-24M graphite lubricant;
• Install the support and tighten the bolt. We do the same with the fastening;
• Then we move on to the second wheel or test the car on the track.

AutoFlit.ru

Reasons for failure

There are several reasons why a ball joint may fall out. Let's consider the main ones:

Wear . The most common malfunction that occurs on cars.

Inspecting the ball for wear

To avoid consequences, it is necessary to regularly diagnose and maintain ball joints.

Diagnostic operations

How can you diagnose the condition of ball joints on a Lada Kalina:

• The first thing you need to pay attention to is the condition of the boot. If it has cracks or is torn, then it must be removed and the ball should be inspected.
• We hang the wheel a little and swing it up and down with our hands. If there is play, then it’s time to replace the ball.
• The presence of a squeak, as well as heavy turning of the steering wheel, can also be signs that the ball joints are in critical condition.
• Instability in control, namely departure from the trajectory of movement to the left or right, with the steering wheel in a level position, indicates that the ball joint has failed.

It is almost impossible to determine the exact condition of the ball joint, but the above facts indirectly indicate the condition of the supports.

Worn support bearing

These sounds appear in the same way as with an inelastic damper, but they are sharper and much louder. In order to make an accurate diagnosis in this case, it is necessary to remove the stand. It is recommended to take into account one rather interesting feature that is inherent in such breakdowns: bearing wear is always uneven. So, maximum wear is where it is constantly located when the car is driving straight. If after turning the steering wheel the knocking noise disappears for a while, then it is definitely a support bearing.

There is also another diagnostic method. It is quite old, but effective. You will need an assistant again. The second person should rock the machine up and down. At this time, the driver should feel the shock absorber rod with his hand. The knock will be transmitted to this rod.

Another possible reason is that the nut on the upper support is loosely tightened, sometimes this happens.

Ball selection, articles

The choice of ball joints for the Lada Kalina should be treated carefully, since it determines what loads the car can withstand:

Original

If you believe the spare parts catalog, then the original catalog number of the Lada Kalina ball joint is 2108-2904185 . The average cost is 1000 rubles per piece.

Original Kalina ball joint produced by AvtoVAZ

Analogs

Belmag ball joint is an excellent option for replacing original spare parts

Let's consider possible options for replacing the original spare part:

As you can see from the table, you can buy an analogue cheaper than the original. But don’t go to extremes and buy the cheapest.

TRW ball joint recommended for installation on Kalina