Many admirers of domestic cars are familiar with replacing the rear axle bearing on VAZ 2106 and 2107. The frequency of this work directly depends on your driving style. Many car enthusiasts can easily go without replacing this part for several years, while others can change it every six months. Therefore, there is no definite replacement time here, everything is very individual, you should rely on the condition of the car, otherwise you will not end up with problems. It should be noted that, like any bearing, it loudly announces its malfunction, it is impossible to miss the moment of failure. The need for regular replacement is due to the low quality of parts.
Replacing the rear axle bearing on a VAZ 2106 and 2107 requires quite a lot of steps. This is due to the location of the part. The axle shaft is located in the drive axle of the vehicle. In the case of the “classic”, this is the rear axle. It is the axle shaft that transmits the force from the gearbox to the wheel. Since the part is located inside the bridge, to replace the bearing you will have to remove the brake mechanism, and only after that the axle shaft is removed.
Diagnostics
It should be noted that identifying the problem is quite easy. First of all, when driving, an increased howl begins, emanating from the rear axle. If you do not pay attention to this point, then after a while grinding and cracking may begin. As the speed increases, the sound increases significantly.
A fairly strong backlash appears. You can identify it by jacking up and shaking the wheel. It is recommended to check both wheels. After all, it is very problematic to determine by ear whether 1 wheel is howling or 2. In some cases, balls may fall out of the bearing. The most serious problem may be a wheel jam. This happens when the bearing is completely destroyed. If this happens while driving, an accident may occur. Monitor the condition of the bearings in the axle shafts carefully.
How bridge malfunctions manifest themselves
The rear axle of the VAZ “six” is endowed with its own characteristic problems, which manifest themselves in one way or another.
Excessive noise from rear wheels
There may not be many reasons for the appearance of large noise from the wheels of the rear axle:
- The wheel has become loose. In this case, it is necessary to check and tighten the fasteners;
- semi-axial bearing failure. The axle bearing wears out over time, resulting in a characteristic noise. The axle shaft needs to be inspected and the faulty element replaced.
Constant noise from the rear axle while driving
Sounds unusual for the normal operation of the device in most cases indicate problems. The main causes of malfunctions include:
- stocking deformation. If the case is deformed, you can try to restore it, but it is better to replace it with a serviceable one;
- bent axle shafts and excessive runout. In this case, the part must be replaced;
- increased wear on splines. It is necessary to inspect the gears and splines of the axle shafts, and then replace the damaged elements;
- the gearbox is incorrectly adjusted, gears or bearings are worn or broken. Complete disassembly, defect detection and repair of the mechanism is required;
If the bearing rollers are damaged, extraneous noise may appear in the operation of the rear axle.
- low oil level. You need to check the level, bring it to normal and make sure that there are no leaks through the lip seals and gaskets.
- Worn or incorrectly adjusted differential bearings. The gearbox needs to be dismantled, inspected and repaired;
- The gearing between the teeth of the bevel and planetary gears is incorrectly set. The problem is solved by proper adjustment;
- wear of semi-axial bearings. It is necessary to remove the faulty axle shaft and replace the bearing;
- little lubrication. The problem is resolved in the same way as with constant noise.
Noise when accelerating the car
The appearance of noise when accelerating a vehicle may be associated with the following reasons:
Lack of lubrication in the gearbox leads to increased production and jamming of the mechanism
Noise when accelerating and braking the engine
If noise from the motor side is present when the motor accelerates and decelerates, then the reason is possible in the following:
- Excessive wear or damage to the shank bearings. Requires disassembly and diagnostics of the gearbox;
- Incorrect alignment of the teeth of the bevel and planetary gears. Eliminated by checking the integrity of the parts and setting the correct gap.
Video: identifying the cause of noise in the rear axle
Noises when cornering
Extraneous noise can appear not only when driving straight, but also when cornering. This may be due to the following reasons:
- Difficulty turning the satellites on the axis. Requires disassembly, inspection of serviceability and replacement of elements whose condition does not allow them to be used further;
- jamming of side gears. If the gears and the surfaces with which they come into contact have minor damage, then they are cleaned with sandpaper. Otherwise, failed elements must be replaced;
- Incorrect alignment of the differential gears. Diagnostics and correct adjustment of the gap are required;
- failure of semi-axial bearings. Defective elements must be replaced.
Replacement
Before carrying out work, carefully secure the vehicle in place. In particular, it is necessary to install wheel chocks under the front wheels. This will prevent the machine from moving spontaneously and will reduce the risk of it falling off the jack. Also, just in case, you need to turn off the power supply. The work is carried out in the following order:
- After jacking up the car from the side of the damaged bearing, place additional support under it. You can use stacked wheels for this. The bridge is also raised separately on a jack. As a result, the side that needs to be moved will look slightly upward. This will avoid transmission oil leakage;
- Remove the wheel;
- Remove the brake drum. To do this, it is necessary to pour penetrating lubricant into the gap between the support disk and the drum itself. After which you should apply several gentle blows through the block to the part. According to the manufacturer, the drum should be easily removed. In practice, you have to knock it down by striking its trailing edge. Be sure to use a block. The drum is made of cast iron, so it is not recommended to hit it with a hammer;
- Remove all parts of the brake mechanism;
- The screws securing the axle shaft are unscrewed. To do this you will need a “17” socket. Please note that screws often stick, so it is advisable to moisten them with liquid key and wait a little;
- There is a special puller to remove the axle shaft, but our car enthusiasts often use another method. To remove the axle shaft, a wheel is placed on it, but only 2 or 3 wheel studs are tightened. It is important that they do not curl completely. Due to the resulting play, blows are applied to the axle shaft, and it jumps out without much difficulty. After removal, inspect the part. There should be no deformation or damage on it;
- Bearing dismantling begins with the retaining ring. This action is carried out using a hammer and chisel. The ring is simply cut off. If you have an angle grinder, you can simplify the task and simply cut off the retaining ring. Just don’t cut the axle shaft at the same time;
- The same goes for the bearing itself;
- Before installing the new bearing in place, it should be lubricated. The manufacturer saves a lot on lubrication, so fill the spare part with lithol or other suitable lubricant;
- To press in the bearing, a pipe with the same diameter is used. While striking the pipe, install the part into the seat;
- Before installing the retaining ring, it should be heated with a blowtorch. In this case, it will fall into place without any problems;
- The remaining parts are installed in the reverse order. The manufacturer recommends tightening the axle shaft mounting screws with a certain torque during assembly.
Sequencing
- The car is jacked up, and the wheel is removed using socket wrenches, behind which there is a worn bearing.
- The brake disc and pads are removed.
- Now you need to unscrew the axle shaft itself with a 17 socket wrench.
The axle shaft is unscrewed with a 17 socket wrench - To remove it from its seat, you can use a crank.
It should be inserted between the brake cylinder and the rear of the axle and used as a lever to push the axle out. Pushing out the axle shaft using a crank - Now you need to remove the bearing from the axle shaft.
Often it turns out to be tightly welded to it, so you have to literally cut it off with a grinder. This must be done by first clamping the axle shaft in a vice. The old bearing is cut off with a grinder - Once the old bearing is removed, the axle must be thoroughly wiped with a rag.
And then a new part and a retaining ring are put on the axle shaft. Installing a new axle bearing - Now, using a medium-sized flat-head screwdriver, you need to remove the worn oil seal from the seat.
The old oil seal is removed with a screwdriver - As soon as it is removed, a new oil seal is installed in its place (it is most convenient to drive it into the seat with a 32 socket head).
- The axle shaft with a new bearing is installed back into the seat and the entire assembly is reassembled.
Video: How to change it yourself
Replacing the axle shaft and its seal VAZ 2106
To replace the axle shaft seal on a VAZ 2106, you need to remove the axle shaft from the rear axle housing; to do this, lift the car onto a lift, remove the wheels and brake drums
Using a 17mm socket, unscrew the four nuts through the holes in the axle shaft flange.
Remove the elastic washers with tweezers
We attach an impact puller to the axle shaft flange and knock the axle shaft out of the beam. Instead of this device, you can use the removed wheel. We install it with the reverse side on two bolts and with a sharp movement pull out the axle shaft
The axle shaft is removed along with the oil seal, mounting plate, bearing and locking ring
A rubber O-ring is installed between the beam flange and the brake shield.
Using sliding pliers, remove the axle shaft seal from its socket in the rear axle beam
With light blows of a hammer on the socket head, we press the new oil seal into the stocking of the rear axle of the VAZ 2106. If the axle shaft is deformed, there are large radial and axial clearances in the bearing, the locking ring is displaced, or the splines are worn, the axle shaft must be replaced with a new assembly. Independent replacement of the VAZ 2106 axle bearing and locking ring is not recommended. Installation of the axle shaft on a VAZ 2106 is performed in the reverse order of removal. Before installation, lubricate the working surfaces of the oil seal with Litol-24 lubricant.
Repair work to replace the axle shaft on a VAZ 2106 should be carried out in cases where, when driving a car, there is increased noise from the rear wheels, which will be felt not only when the car moves in a straight line, but also when turning, as a rule, when increased noise occurs, the backlashes increase accordingly , both axial and radial.
Bridge installation
Install the axle shaft in the reverse order of removal.
Before installation, lubricate the working surfaces of the cuff with Litol-24 lubricant.
Source
Dear friends, today we will tell you how to remove and replace axle shafts with a classic one. This procedure may be required if the axle bearing fails or worse. Its seat is worn out (in the first case you may be limited to replacing the bearing and ring), if you have a shaft drip seal or the shaft itself is too large, this also happens. Remember to take precautions, insure your car, don't just rely on a jack, just protect your shoes from rolling around with them. To begin with, we recommend loosening the tension on the parking brake cable, this will make the work easier later, we will have time to stretch after assembly. So, we hang up the jack of the required wheel, remove the wheel and begin disassembling the brake drum. You need to unscrew two guide pins:
There are cases when it is problematic to remove, close or get stuck, problematic. Read here. Problems with removing the brake drum on a classic . For convenience, we hung it on the rear axle “stocking” connector itself like this:
Remove the drum, remove the gaskets themselves, first disconnect the springs from the gaskets by pulling out something like a strong screwdriver
Then clamp the locking pins holding the block and rotate the cup to release them from each other
Remove the parking brake cable that we previously loosened and set the pads aside:
Now we need to unscrew the four nuts that are attached directly to the axle shaft, there are two holes in the seat on the axle shaft for this, unscrew the nuts one by one. If the head does not fit into the hole, remove it from the wrench and place the head on the nut first, then insert the wrench into the hole and secure it with the head.
Then carefully pull the axle shaft out of its seat and you will see the following image:
If we need to replace the shaft seal itself, we will remove it using the following tool:
Then we take a new oil seal, lubricate the working edges with lithol and hammer in place with a suitable frame or head:
Then we select a new or repaired bridge
And put everything back together in reverse order:
We put the drum in its original place, first lubricating the surface of the ring that it touches and centering the axis.
That's all, so we learned how to remove and change the rear axle shafts on our classic VAZ. If you have questions. Ask them at our VAZ Classic Club on the forum .
Source
↑ How to remove a VAZ 2106 axle shaft?
We hang the rear of the car on tripods, remove the rear wheel and brake drum.
Using a jack, we lift the disassembled edge of the rear axle beam so that after removing the axle shaft, oil does not spill out.
Using a “17” socket, unscrew the four nuts through the holes in the axle shaft flange.
Remove the elastic washers with tweezers.
We attach an impact puller to the axle shaft flange (see Appendix) and knock the axle shaft out of the beam.
Instead of this device, you can use the removed wheel. We install it with the reverse side on two bolts and with a sharp movement pull out the axle shaft.
The axle shaft is removed along with the oil deflector, mounting plate, bearing and locking ring.
A rubber O-ring is installed between the beam flange and the brake shield.
Using sliding pliers, remove the axle shaft cuff from its socket in the rear axle beam.
Using light blows of a hammer on the socket head (a piece of pipe of suitable diameter), we press in a new cuff.
In case of deformation of the axle shaft, large radial and axial clearances in the bearing, displacement of the locking ring, wear of the splines, the axle shaft must be replaced with a new assembly.