PRIMARY SHAFT BEARING LADA GRANTA 2190 2190 SEDAN

I don’t even remember at what mileage this knocking sound appeared in the box; it was especially audible when the car was tilted transversely to the right. Everything pointed to a known disease associated with a loose fit of the rear bearings of both shafts. I decided to carry out the repair by removing the box, since I also wanted to resolve the issue of the dry splined primary shaft, and at the same time look at the condition of the clutch and release bearing.

JANUARY 22, 2021. I ran about a thousand km, the knocking returned, not so loud, but still the same. Bottom line: all in vain, time and money!

Price tag: 746 ₽ Mileage: 103800 km

Gearbox (Gearbox) for Lada Granta 2190

(the starter is attached to 3 studs)

Order by phone

To avoid bank commissions or cash on delivery fees, pay for your order with a bank card, using Yandex.Money, QIWI wallet or WebMoney. Your savings will be from 3% to 5%.

• Description
• Reviews (0)
• Payment and delivery

Buy the auto spare part “Gearbox (Gearbox) for LADA Granta 2190 (the starter is attached to 3 studs) with delivery throughout Russia and the CIS countries.”

Standard 5-speed gearbox.

.

Gearbox warranty is 180 days.

After assembly, all gearboxes are tested at a specialized stand to check for defects and acceptable noise levels.

Weight: 32.7 kg

Diagnosis of wheel bearing failure Grants

The front wheel bearing on the Grant is not the most vulnerable part in the suspension, but its failure is possible after a mileage of 80,000 km or due to external and internal factors.

A front hub malfunction is determined by the following symptoms:

1. Noise from the wheel while driving (damaged ball bearing parts: rolling elements, raceways or cage);
2. Vibration, wheel beating, grinding noise (typical of a broken ball bearing);
3. Front wheel play (the ball bearing has failed or the wheel nut is not tightened with sufficient torque).

The same signs of malfunction are characteristic of the rear wheel bearing on the Grant.

Watch the video with the characteristic noise when a hub unit breaks:

Bad bearing humming

Diagnostics of the front hub bearings proceeds as follows:

1. The front of the car is raised with a jack;
2. Spin the wheel by hand and check for noise;
3. Check the axial play (clearance) according to the instructions.
4. If you hear a noise or notice other signs, then replacing the front wheel bearing on Granta is inevitable.
5. Be sure to watch the diagnostic video.

Diagnostics of the VAZ front wheel bearing

How to check the release bearing on Kalina and how malfunctions manifest themselves (noisy or buzzing)

To understand whether your Kalina needs to replace the clutch, you must first respond in time to signs of failure and diagnose the unit. Signs of a malfunctioning Kalina release bearing:

• Noise or hum when pressing the pedal (damaged, insufficient lubrication or jammed);
• Difficulty pressing the pedal occurs when the coupling ear is broken, as well as the spring is deformed;
• These videos clearly show when the Kalina release bearing is faulty (noise, buzzing, knocking, creaking), as well as how to check the release bearing.

Example of noise during a fault:

Clutch noise when pressed:

The VP fell apart - sounds:

How to check the release lever without removing the gearbox:

What happens if the VP jams:

Clutch problems and solutions:

Which transmission is suitable for the Lada Granta?

For decades, all front-wheel drive Ladas were equipped with approximately the same boxes with only minor changes. The Granta is suitable for gearboxes from 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115, Priora, Kalina. If your transmission has broken down because you like to “push your shoe to the floor,” then it is recommended to install a “nine” box. It is more tenacious, but noisy.

There were still certain differences. From the very beginning until 2010, Sputnik and Samara had the same transmission. On 2110, 2111 and 2112 there was a modified gearbox. The differences were in the gear selection mechanism, clutch fork and brackets.

The transmission from the “ten” ends up in the Priora in a modified form under the index 2170. Then this gearbox is modified, and in 2013 it debuts under the index 2180 and is installed on the Kalina, Priora and Granta. Therefore, the checkpoint from “Priora” to “Grant” will also easily fit. The gearbox from the Kalina will also fit on the Grant without question, just like the slightly different gearbox from the Lada Granta Sport.

Compatibility Criteria

The new gearbox from the "ten" will fit on the rocker "Grant" without any problems, since the first "Grants" had a modified gearbox from 2110. Therefore, the gearbox from the VAZ 2110 will fit on the "Grant". In the case of a cable box, some difficulties will arise. Since a larger diameter clutch is used, the clutch basket will also have to be changed.

How to remove

To dismantle the box on the Grant, you will need access to the bottom of the car. You need a lift, pit or overpass. After the car is hung, you need to secure it. You need to remove the battery, engine mudguards and air filter. The transmission oil will need to be drained - for this you will need a container of at least 3 liters. Prepare all the tools and place them within walking distance.

Removing the gearbox

To remove the gearbox, follow these steps:

1. The clutch housing cover is secured with 3 bolts. Remove it by unscrewing these bolts.
2. Then unscrew the two bolts securing the crankcase to the box and remove the torque rod from the transmission.
3. Disconnect the front wheel drives.
4. Loosen the two bolts that secure the transmission to the cylinder block. Do the same with the ignition coil nut.
5. Loosen the nut that secures the transmission to the block from below. Then secure the box with bars.
6. Remove the bracket. To do this, you need to unscrew the 5 screws of the left engine mount to the transmission.
7. Unscrew all the bolts and nut securing the box. Then carefully move the gearbox away from the engine. Be careful not to rest the input shaft on the diaphragm blades. There is a risk of their deformation.

Removal is not an easy process for a novice repairman and requires certain knowledge and skills of a car mechanic. It is advisable to take an assistant.

Installation of a new gearbox

Since the transmission is heavy, it is best to have an assistant perform installation work. The installation for the rocker box is completely similar, and it will fit like it was originally.

During assembly, all moving parts must be lubricated with a thin layer of grease. The retaining rings on the drives must be replaced to prevent the drives from falling off while driving. When the box is assembled, fill in good oil.

Replacing Grant cable gearbox bearings without removal — search on DRIVE2

Replacement of rear bearings of gearbox 2181 - Lada Granta.

Review from the owner of Lada Grant

- with your own hands.

I decided to carry out the repair by removing
the box
because I wanted...

I decided to carry out the repair by removing
the box
, since I also wanted to solve the issue of the dry splined primary shaft, and at the same time look at the condition.

Replacing the Grant clutch. — Lada Granta, 1.6 l., 2013.

Granta

normal, engine 186,
gearbox
2181, mileage 31t. with kopecks, 3 years like from the assembly line.

10 We unscrew the lower flywheel screen (three bolts with a key *10*) last, before removing
the box
, since this bolt (see below in the photo) is not convenient to unscrew and the screen itself.

Seller's comment

Special conditions: • Discount for purchases on credit up to RUB 15,000. • Discount for CASCO insurance up to 20,000 rubles. • Discount for trade-in up to 15,000 rubles. • Maximum discount of 50,000 rubles.

ID-1594/№44 The car is in excellent condition. Timely service. Careful operation. The salon is clean, well-groomed, and smoke-free. Pre-sale preparation and technical diagnostics have been carried out, no additional investments are required!

Call, or better yet, come right now! We are glad to see you! Become part of our large family of regular customers! UNIQUE OFFER FOR ALL CARS. When you return your car under the Trade-in program, an additional discount of up to 50 thousand rubles * According to our expert assessment, the mileage of this car is not confirmed.

The AUTO-FULL car dealership invites you to pick up your new used car!

Opening hours: Every day from 9-20.

Advantages of our car dealership: - Convenient free parking for our clients. — There are always more than 100 used cars on sale — Cozy customer area. Children's corner with photo studio. — Upon receipt of the warehouse, all cars undergo a thorough check and pre-sale preparation at 103 points. — Guarantee of legal purity for each car. — Applying for a loan within an hour using 2 documents. More than 10 partner banks. — Free test drive before purchase. — At your request, our manager will send you additional photos and videos in any convenient way. — Profitable exchange of your car using the TRADE-IN system. — Purchase of any cars, incl. pledged by any bank in the Russian Federation.

Unlike the front, it has undergone virtually no changes. Here, just like on the first Soviet G8s, a semi-independent beam is used. It is attached to the body on hinges (fortunately, there are no “crabs” in the design). A helical spring with constant stiffness is used as an elastic element. To dampen vibrations and prevent swinging, two shock absorbers are used.

• High reliability. The design does not have additional levers, which, in addition, can bend when falling into a large hole.
• Energy intensity. The Lada Granta absorbs all bumps perfectly, especially if oil shock absorbers are installed at the rear.
• Cheap maintenance. Due to its simple design, this pendant can be rebuilt even with your own hands. And the cost of new rubber-metal elements is unlikely to empty the pockets of even the most stingy car owner.

The main difference between the “Grant” suspension is the wheel alignment angles.

Lada Granta with automatic and robot

After the appearance of the Granta version with an automatic transmission in 2012, which was installed on this model until 2015, many experts agreed that AvtoVAZ really brought to the market a high-quality budget model with an automatic transmission.

In fact, the experience of ordinary car enthusiasts confirms that this is indeed the case. The reason is quite obvious, since VAZ did not experiment and went along the proven path, equipping the Grant with a “classic” 4-speed hydromechanical Japanese automatic transmission.

If you follow all the rules and recommendations for maintenance and operation, such an automatic machine can easily cover 200 thousand km. and more without repair. The main thing is to change the transmission fluid every 40-50 thousand kilometers. As a last resort, replacement is allowed at 60 thousand km. It is also strongly recommended to fill with original ATF EJ-1 or Matic-S oil.

Putting aside the significant increase in price of the Lada Grant with an automatic transmission, the increased fuel consumption, the need for more expensive and frequent maintenance, as well as a slight decrease in acceleration dynamics, otherwise there are no complaints about the automatic transmission on the Grant.

It is important to understand that any torque converter boxes are sensitive to slipping (clutches burn), overheating and large “shock” loads (sharp starts, towing a trailer, etc.).

Also, in some cases, leakage of oil seals and gaskets, damage to the automatic transmission pan due to its low location, as well as contamination of the oil in the machine as a result of active wear of the torque converter locking friction linings were noted.

• Taking into account the disadvantages of the automatic transmission and the high cost of the unit, which led to an increase in the price of the car as a whole, VAZ decided to replace the classic Jatco automatic transmission with the AMT 2182 robotic gearbox.

The specified manual transmission began to be installed on Grant at the beginning of 2015. It is based on a 2180 mechanical transmission, where instead of cables and a clutch pedal, an electromechanical gearbox drive developed by the Germans from the ZF company is used.

As a result, the Lada Granta with the AMT robot has become more economical compared to an automatic transmission, acceleration dynamics have improved, and transmission maintenance costs have decreased. However, such a robot is a cheap solution, which also has disadvantages.

For example, if you drive calmly at first speed and sharply press the gas pedal to accelerate, the transmission “thinks” for quite a long time, is in no hurry to engage second, immediately switching to third gear, etc. In other words, a robot in automatic mode can behave unpredictably, which excludes the possibility of actively using the car and practicing aggressive driving.

At the same time, during a quiet ride, jerks during switching, as well as delays and dips, are kept to a minimum. For lovers of active drive, it is recommended to use the manual shift mode (similar to the Tiptronic automatic transmission).

This mode is semi-automatic, that is, the driver does not fully control the box, as is the case with a manual transmission, but when independently controlled, the manual transmission behaves more predictably in manual mode.

Some owners in this situation are helped by changing the oil in the robotic box, while others still note the presence of extraneous noise to a greater or lesser extent even after this procedure.

Replacing the bearing of the input shaft of the Lada Granta

Yes, yes, the recording is usual for the off-season.
But something else interesting happened. I contacted Phobos, they say, the noise in neutral is bothering me, chzh, this shouldn’t happen! They resisted for a long time, but I insisted. We ordered the input shaft bearings and replaced them for me. The fact that they did it well, but damn, sometimes it seems that the mechanics there don’t care about everything... Pressing a bearing on a dusty floor with a hammer? What is the hydraulic press nearby for? Oh well... The noise disappeared. In addition, they found play in the clutch disc, and also prescribed new silent blocks... Hmm...

So now to the second one. Tires for summer - the asphalt is already warm. And Cosmonautics Day seems to hint at a replacement. At the same time I changed the windshield wipers to Bosch frame ones. Let's see how they behave. LYNX has been great all winter.

Starting today I am opening a new section. Oh, how I didn’t want to, but this cannot be avoided when tuning. Even the word “something disgusting” fully characterizes what is being described.

But I’m just a little scared. You could say it was a baptism of fire. For the hundred hundredth time...

I remember how I was very alarmed by the first launch on the new box: there was a noise reminiscent of walking on rubble or twisting metal balls in a meat grinder. The Dealer's master said: the input shaft bearing... XZ-XZ... The tuners said that the Main Pair should make noise at first...

In the morning I approach my growing turbo-pelvis, and he has...

Or maybe it's not ours? But no... the defense is also covered in oil...

I immediately called my loved ones and family, who screwed the box to the engine for me, in response: “We are waiting for you with open arms!”

Again there was a change of the stern, mustachioed guy, a great guy! and his guys are understanding!

This means this: the oil is running out of the box (at the level in the engine), they removed the clutch boot - oil was smeared on it and the flywheel. This means there is oil on the clutch (any breakdown requires tuning...). The verdict is the input shaft oil seal. To make sure of this, we carried out an experiment: we poured oil into the box to the level, wiped and blew everything dry, lifted it and “rolled”

By the way, the data absolutely corresponds to the calculations. I take this plate with me for verification.

To completely ruin the day, the front underbody lighting module fell off. Happy New Year, fuck you...

A small opus: according to the sensations of acceleration, there was some slight misunderstanding “why O_o

?.
The funny thing was that when you pressed the gas pedal with the clutch released and the gear engaged, attention: the revolutions grew, but the car did not accelerate!
I didn't look at the speedometer. After 4,000 rpm, the rpm dropped to 2,500 and the acceleration continued. Then, after diagnosing the oil seal and the presence of oil on the clutch, everything fell into place: the clutch slipped up to a certain point, the oil burned and a snag occurred, accompanied by sharp jerking/acceleration.

Everything is clear, but nothing is clear. We're going to the tuners. I don’t just trust these guys to assemble a box, I trust them to sort through the entire Snowball®! I haven’t captured the certificates and awards yet...

Lada Granta: wiring diagram for rear wiring harness devices

The rear part of the car wiring is responsible for the equipment of the stern and sides of the car. all additional equipment is connected exclusively through this part of the highways:

• 1/2 – contact group for the dashboard;
• 3/4 – direction indicators;
• 5 – handbrake indicator;
• 6 – rear window heating contact;
• 7 – interior lamp;
• 8 – indicator of the driver’s seat belt position;
• 9 – cargo compartment illumination lamp;
• 10 – fuel pump drive;
• 11/15 – aft dimensions for the left and right sides;
• 12 – trunk lid lock drive;
• 13 – button for turning on the interior lamp;
• 14 – additional stop chain;
• 16-19 – door terminal blocks for the rear left, rear right, front left and front right doors;
• 20 – airbag control drive;
• 21 – contact group of license plate lights;
• 22 – on the dashboard;
• 23/24 – rear speed indicator sensors;
• 25/26 – seat belt pretensioners;
• 27 – group of dashboard contacts.

Specifications

The body of the Grant is sedan, hatchback, liftback, curb weight = 1160 kg, maximum permitted weight = 1560 kg.

The LADA Granta in-line petrol engine has 8 valves with a volume of 1.6 liters, in the full configuration - Luxury - possibly 16 valves, model 11186 or 21116. The power system is distributed fuel injection. The “Norma” package has 8 valves with a lightweight ShPG (connecting rod and piston group), which gives higher power. And more torque, due to this 87 hp are achieved.

The engine complies with the EURO 4 environmental standard.

Engine control system with electric throttle and electronic gas pedal. The ignition system is electronic non-contact with microprocessor control. The fuel used for normal engine operation must be at least AI-95.

Vehicle transmission

It was decided to use a cable drive for the clutch. The transmission can be either manual with five steps or automatic. The car has front-wheel drive, a dual-circuit brake system with a hydraulic drive and a vacuum booster. The front wheel brakes are disc, the rear wheels are drum. Front suspension is MacPherson strut, i.e. independent. Rear suspension on 2 trailing arms. Which are connected by an elastic cross beam with coil springs and a hydraulic pipe shock absorber. The “luxury” equipment has an ABS system (anti-lock braking system).

The steering wheel rim is injury-proof with tilt adjustment. The steering rack has an electric booster.

The exhaust system has a catalytic converter.

How to check the oil level in a cable gearbox on a Liftback

Dear. I had this problem. The 2nd gear crunched on the Grant Liftback. The car is out of warranty. Please advise what can be done?

Cable gearbox.

Another question - if you change the oil, is there a difference compared to the factory one?

Outlander has reached Russia

Official sales of Mitsubishi Outlander will begin on the Russian market at the end of May - beginning of June. The European debut of this newest SUV took place on March 4 at the 76th Geneva Motor Show. The prototype for it was the ASX “concept” and the serial Mitsubishi Airtrek, sold exclusively in the Land of the Rising Sun.

The Mitsubishi Outlander transmission provides permanent all-wheel drive to all wheels, and torque is distributed between the axles using a viscous coupling. The independent suspension of all wheels (McPherson type at the front, multi-link at the rear), despite the significant ground clearance, made it possible to achieve a truly car-like handling of the SUV and high stability in behavior on the road during high-speed driving.

In Russia, at first, only the model equipped with a 2-liter four-cylinder gasoline engine with an output of 136 hp/6000 rpm1, which is currently equipped with the Galant and Space Wagon, will be sold. This engine is mated to a five-speed manual gearbox. There are two versions of Outlander 2.0 to choose from. The price of the first, called Comfort, is $27,990. The second, richer version, called Sport, is priced at $29,790. The list of its equipment includes, among other things, climate control and side airbags. driver's seat with lumbar support. roof rails and 16-inch alloy wheels.

After some time, two more modifications of Outlander will appear in Europe, and then, perhaps, here too. The first, equipped with a 159-horsepower 2.4-liter M1VEC engine. has a top speed of 204 km/h. and acceleration to a standard hundred takes 9.9 seconds. The second modification, which will go on sale no earlier than a year, will also be capable of turning up the heat: it will be equipped with a 2-liter turbocharged engine. borrowed (albeit in a deformed form) from the “combat” Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII. This model will go into production this year.

P O P U L A R N O E:

• Diagram of a car radar detector.

Antiradar circuit.

Converting the valve from a washing machine to 12 volt DC power supply

Electric valves are required to automatically control various hydraulic systems. Finished products are quite expensive. Let's look for a cheaper solution.

Recently, amendments to the traffic rules were introduced in Russia, one of which is: driving during the day with low beam headlights, fog lights or
daytime running lights . Now you need to drive with lights on during the day. Driving with low beams or fog lights on additionally creates a load on the generator, reduces the service life of the lamps, and also increases fuel consumption (more than 0.5 liters per 100 km). Therefore, it is better to drive during the day with the running lights turned on, the light-emitting element of which is LEDs , which consume much less power than incandescent lamps. You can buy DRLs, or you can make them yourself from scrap materials.