What is the reason for no spark on injector 2107

VAZ 2107 injector does not start

With an injection engine, everything is a little simpler and more complicated at the same time.
In principle, there are again two directions: gasoline and spark. Well, compression, respectively. For starters, there is a “check engine” light that will light up if the ignition system is faulty. The error code in this case will begin with P03XX. That is, misfires in the cylinders. Of course, you must first check whether there is a spark. There are several diagnostic methods that are worth paying attention to:

• Diagnostic scanner. There is nothing complicated here. If there is an error, then everything is much simpler than when there are no errors at all. In this case, we check the part itself, and then the reasons, if it is working.

Ignition module. There are several methods worth trying to check, but the most reliable is to go to the store and take it with a receipt for verification. You can immediately talk about returning it if your own is in working order. Of course, not all stores will do this, but most will agree. The VAZ engine does not start for one reason. This is quite common among car enthusiasts. The control unit contains two transistors, each of which is responsible for a pair of cylinders. Most often they burn out at the same time, and the spark disappears completely.

If everything is fine with the spark, you need to check the power supply to the engine. Again, unscrew the spark plugs and see if they are wet.

• If the spark plugs are dry, then you need to see if voltage is supplied to the injectors, first. To do this, remove the connector from one, connect the tester probes to the connector and ground.

After you are convinced of this, you need to measure the pressure in the fuel rail.

Most likely this is the problem. Therefore, you need to check the fuel pump, first of all, the fuse that is responsible for it.

It is easier to check the fuel pump by replacing it with a known good one, as with the ignition module.

Why does the VAZ 2107 engine not start?

I must say, there are not so many reasons why a VAZ does not start: 2107, 2106, the model is not that important. Let's look at the main reasons why the engine won't start in this article.

In general, this problem has two directions: lack of gasoline and lack of spark. That is, fuel must enter the cylinder and it must ignite. This is a simple truth from which we must build. In addition, there are two more directions - injection and carburetor engines. We will focus on them.

VAZ 2107 carburetor does not start

You should definitely understand that these are not all possible reasons why gasoline does not enter the cylinders. Each case of malfunction is purely individual, so there is simply no solution to the problem for all occasions.

Now let's see why a carburetor-type VAZ engine does not start if everything is in order with the fuel system and the spark plugs are flooded. In this case, you need to pay attention to the ignition system.

This is where we’ll probably finish with the carburetor engine. Certainly. If the VAZ engine does not start, gasoline is supplied, there is a spark, the ignition is set correctly, then it would be necessary to check the compression. In a Zhiguli engine it should not be less than 11.

VAZ 2107 injector does not start

With an injection engine, everything is a little simpler and more complicated at the same time. In principle, there are again two directions: gasoline and spark. Well, compression, respectively. For starters, there is a “check engine” light that will light up if the ignition system is faulty. The error code in this case will begin with P03XX. That is, misfires in the cylinders. Of course, you must first check if there is a spark. There are several diagnostic methods that are worth paying attention to:

If everything is fine with the spark, you need to check the power supply to the engine. Again, unscrew the spark plugs and see if they are wet.

The VAZ 2107 engine does not pick up speed and does not pull

It happens that the VAZ engine does not pull. This is most often due to low pressure in the rail. The engine starts normally, also idles stable, but does not pick up speed. The thing is that in such modes the fuel pump requires increased performance, which it cannot provide.

If the VAZ engine does not run hot, then it is worth checking the air flow meter, as well as the spark plugs. The article already mentioned a red spark, but when cold, they can be normal, but under the influence of temperature they become “broken.”

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Checking the crankshaft sensor

Misfire causes VAZ 2107 injector
On most cars, a faulty DPKV usually causes a fault code, so use a diagnostic scanner. Or check the crankshaft sensor itself.

Magnetic DPKV

Crankshaft magnetic sensors can be tested by disconnecting the electrical connector and measuring the resistance between the corresponding terminals. If the resistance is not within specifications, the sensor is faulty and must be replaced.

Magnetic crankshaft position sensors produce alternating current when the engine is started, so checking the output voltage is another test that can be performed.

With the sensor connected, measure the output voltage at the sensor terminals when the engine starts. If you see at least 20 mV on AC, the sensor is good and there is probably a problem with the module.

If the output voltage is low, remove the sensor and inspect the end for rust or debris (magnetic sensors will attract metal particles). Clean the sensor, reinstall it and test again.

Make sure it has the proper air gap (if adjustable) as the distance between the end of the sensor and the ring gear or notches in the crankshaft will affect the sensor's voltage output. If the air gap is correct and the output voltage is still low, replace the sensor.

DPKV on the Hall effect

Hall effect crankshaft position sensors typically have three terminals. One is for current supply, one is for grounding and one is for output signal. The sensor must have voltage and ground to produce a signal, so check these terminals first with a multimeter.

The sensor output can be checked by disconnecting the DIS module and cranking the engine to ensure that the sensor is producing a voltage signal. The voltmeter voltage should change each time a prong passes in front of the sensor. When observed on an oscilloscope, you should see a square wave shape. The absence of a signal indicates that the sensor is faulty.

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Why does the VAZ 2107 carburetor or injection engine not start?

Carburetor engine does not start

The list of possible reasons why the VAZ 2107 carburetor does not start looks like this:

The fuel pump does not pump fuel to the carburetor. The easiest way to check its operation is when a transparent fine fuel filter is installed. When manually pumping the pump, gasoline must circulate in the filter. If it’s dry there, then it’s worth checking the fuel pump or fuel line (it could be clogged or sucking in air).

Of course, there may be other reasons why gasoline does not get into the engine cylinders. In this case, an individual approach to solving the problem is necessary.

If gasoline enters the cylinders, but the VAZ 2107 does not start, then it is worth checking the ignition system.

If the ignition is set correctly, the spark is normal and gasoline flows into the cylinders, all that remains is to check the compression. In VAZ 2107 it should be 11 or higher.

Injection engine does not start

An illuminated Check Engine light indicates an ignition fault. To clarify the cause of the malfunction, read the error code. For the ignition system, the error code begins with P03XX, which indicates that the cylinders are missing spark. Of course, the test should begin by making sure that there is a spark at all. The stages of checking an injection engine look like this:

This is a non-exhaustive list of causes of problems with starting an injection engine. There may be damage to the wires going to the ignition module or from the crankshaft position sensor and other malfunctions, for example, a catalyst clogged with combustion products.

Removal and installation of distributor VAZ-2107, 2104, 2105, 2106

Preparation

Throttle sensor for car VAZ 2107 injector

Before installing a new VAZ-2107 distributor for a contact ignition system, you need to adjust the gap between the contacts of the breaker. It is more convenient to do this with the device removed from the car. We check the gap with a flat feeler gauge. The value is set from 0.35 to 0.45 mm. In this case, the protrusion of the cam should move the moving contact away from the stationary contact as much as possible. We adjust by slightly loosening the screws, and then tighten them more firmly and check the gap again. Contacts that have worked hard may have a protrusion on one and a depression on the other, which interferes with adjustment. You can get around this problem by grinding off the protrusion with a needle file. It is better not to use sandpaper, because... small particles of abrasive will definitely “eat” into the surface and interfere with the operation of the contacts.

Before removing the old distributor, mark its position relative to the cylinder block with a marker. You also need to accurately mark the position of the moving contact (slider) relative to the body. If all this is not done, the settings will be violated and the engine will not start.

Installation

Having established exactly the same position of the roller in the body on the new distributor, carefully insert it into the hole in the block, slightly turning the roller to align the splines. Having “planted” the device in place by rotating the body relative to the block, we set the approximate advance angle, as on the old distributor. Secure with a washer and nut, but not too tight. Now you need to plug in the high voltage wires. This is easy to do - each contact on the distributor cover has the number of the cylinder to which it needs to be connected. We connect the wire from the ignition coil to the central terminal. The wires should fit tightly, with a slight tension, the protective caps should be pushed all the way down. Don’t get carried away, don’t bend the petals of the wire tips too much, otherwise later, when you try to remove them, you’ll tear off the wires “with their roots”! A wire goes from the contact wire to the “K” terminal of the ignition coil, usually it is green. If your VAZ-2107 is equipped with a contactless ignition system, then you need to connect a connector with three wires. Having plugged it into the socket, check the fit of the wires; it happens that they “crawl out” from their places and the device does not work. Everything is done, the new distributor is installed and ready to go. Let's try to start the engine. Started up? Great, that means everything was done correctly, all that remains is to check and slightly adjust the ignition timing.

VAZ 2107 won't start! What to do?

Many owners of VAZ cars, having arrived at a car service center, often ask the mechanics the question: “Why won’t my VAZ 2107 start?” But there is no definite answer to it, because each situation has its own specific reasons: breakdown of irreplaceable parts or failure of any systems. We will now look at the possible problems in detail.

We start the car ourselves

If your VAZ car has failed you for the first time, and this has never happened before, do not rush to contact a car service center. It doesn’t matter whether you have an injection engine or a carburetor, the check is carried out according to the same scheme. With a couple of hours of free time, you can easily try to troubleshoot the problem yourself.

To do this, simply follow these steps:

If everything turns out to be in order, but the car still does not start, you will have to proceed with a more thorough check.

What could be the reason?

When a VAZ 2107 car starts too poorly (that is, not the first time) or does not start at all, this greatly limits your capabilities.

Having your own personal car, you cannot go anywhere, because even if the engine starts, there is no guarantee that it will not fail at the first stop.

That is why it is so important to always change consumables during all technical inspections. Let's look at possible faults.

What you shouldn't forget

Of course, the most common reason is the usual breakdown of the starter on a VAZ 2107. There is nothing terrible or special about this. This often happens even on modern foreign cars.

Dismantle this part and examine it to ensure its integrity. Thoroughly clean off accumulated deposits and apply new lubricant.

It was the accumulated dirt and lack of lubrication that could prevent it from starting.

It is also impossible not to take into account the possible overheating of the engine, which has a very bad effect on it. This can happen not only in the hot season, but also on a cold winter day.

The cooling system could have leaked, which can be seen by traces of coolant (antifreeze) in the cabin.

If you do not find them, we recommend disassembling the “stove” and carefully inspecting all pipes for leaks.

Oddly enough, due to ordinary dirt, your radiator could become clogged, which is why its cooling was impaired. Be sure to clean it thoroughly. Now move on to inspect the detail, which, for some unknown reason, is usually not given much importance. This spare part is the inlet valve.

He could easily burn out and thereby stop performing his functions. Thus, the exhaust gases will have a high temperature and overheat the car, which is bad for it.

In the cold winter season

It's no secret that in winter the VAZ 2107 is especially difficult to start. This is due to the fact that the oil in the engine and gearbox thickens, so it becomes more difficult for the starter to “crank” it.

This is why the car does not start the first time, and sometimes even refuses to work. Experienced drivers know a little secret.

When starting the engine, always depress the clutch all the way so that the car tries to turn the transmission shafts, thereby preparing the car for movement.

VAZ 2107 cars with high mileage are especially bad at handling cold weather. Why is this happening? Most often, compression problems in the cylinders, which manifest themselves in winter, are to blame. To start an engine with poor compression in the cold, first remove the spark plugs.

Pour some oil into the cylinders by eye. Try again to start the engine. Now replace the spark plugs and turn the ignition key again. This method almost always works.

Frost has a bad effect on wiring. This can affect the strength of the spark produced by the plugs. She may weaken. Make sure that none of the wires are coming off the ignition coil, and that the connectors are not oxidized (oxidation will prevent them from conducting electricity). WD-40 liquid, popularly called “Vedeshka”, will help get rid of the oxide.

Remember that you cannot save money on your VAZ car. Rare repairs will shorten its service life. Consumables also, it’s clear why, must be of high quality. Cheap antifreeze can not only damage the cooling system, but also cause harm to health.

We check the ignition module of the 16-valve VAZ-2112 with a multimeter

Timing marks on a VAZ 2107 injector car

The situation is as follows: for no apparent reason the engine began to “trouble”, the thrust was lost, and the idle now does not even reach 500. I removed the high-voltage wires one by one, and so, there was no spark at all in cylinders 2 and 3. The engine is 16-valve, but without “individual coils”. The question is how to check the ignition module on a VAZ-2112 engine, and it is advisable not to remove it. Inside the module, in addition to the coils, electronics are installed. How can I check if it's working properly?

Checking the VAZ-2112 ignition module with your own hands

Inside the ignition module there is such a board

It is clear that we are talking about the 21120 engine and the ignition module 2112-3705010. By the way, there will be two more numbers in the article numbers - they indicate the manufacturer.

All elements of the ignition system

Four wires are connected to the module connector:

• Blue-red – nutrition +12;
• Brown – “mass”;
• White-blue – signal for candles 1 and 4;
• Gray-red – candles 2 and 3.

First check that all voltages are supplied to the module:

1. Turn off the ignition, disconnect the connector;
2. Turn the key to position I;
3. We connect the probe voltmeter probe to the battery negative;
4. Using the second probe (positive) we find the “+12V” contact in the connector;
5. At each control contact the arrow will show “almost 0”;
6. With the starter running, the values ​​should increase while remaining less than 0.7 V.

The voltage on both control contacts must be the same.

Let's say that checking the connector did not reveal any errors. Next we will look for the reason in the module itself.

Tester CNT-SPMZ

According to the recommendation of the plant, on VAZ-2112 cars the ignition module should be checked for the need for repair with a tester called TsNT-SPMZ. The kit consists of a generator and a arrester module.

CNT-SPMZ, version 3

If we don’t have a tester at hand, we’ll try to make one ourselves. Only the ignition module will still have to be removed by unscrewing three nuts “10”. First, disconnect the battery, then the spark plug wires and connector. By the way, the wires have numbers corresponding to the numbers on the module (see video).

Repair of VAZ 2108 distributor (replacement of the vacuum regulator)

In distributors of VAZ 2108-09-099 cars, the VROZH quite often fails. Its performance can be checked without removing the PR from the engine - we suck in air through the hose, and if a vacuum is not created, the regulator should be changed.

The ignition timing regulator can be replaced on site without removing the distributor:

• unscrew the two screws of the distributor cover, and together with the high-voltage wires, move the cover to the side, disconnecting only the central wire;
• we pull out the slider, it can be removed by hand;
• Using a thin screwdriver, pull out the latch that secures the VROZH rod; you need to remove the fastening element carefully so as not to lose it;
• unscrew the 2 screws securing the “vacuum unit” and remove the device;
• We install the new part in place and put everything back together.

Replacing the VROZH can also be done by removing the distributor, which will even be more convenient. Remove the distributor as follows:

• disconnect the high-voltage wires from the PR cover;
• use a thin screwdriver to hook the retaining springy wire on the connector and remove the plug going to the distributor from the bottom left;
• we pull off the hose from the VROZH, make a mark on the PR body or notice how it stood;
• unscrew the three nuts that secure the distributor itself, and then remove the breaker - distributor.

It’s easy to install the distributor back - the camshaft spline has a groove shifted to one side, and therefore the PR is installed in only one position, it’s impossible to make a mistake here

During installation, you need to pay attention to the rubber O-ring - if the rubber has hardened, the part must be replaced. And in any case, the seal should be coated with an oil-resistant sealant, in which case oil leakage will be almost 100% avoided

Checking the contactless distributor

If the “six” is equipped with a contactless ignition system, then checking elements such as spark plugs, coil, and explosive wires is performed in the same way as with a contact one. The differences lie in checking the switch and the Hall sensor installed instead of the contacts.

Hall Sensor

The easiest way to diagnose a Hall sensor is to install a known working element. But since the part may not always be at hand, you have to look for other possible options.

Checking the removed sensor

During the test, the voltage at the sensor output is determined. We determine the serviceability of the element removed from the machine according to the presented diagram by applying a voltage in the range of 8–14 V.

Diagram for checking the removed Hall sensor: 1 - ignition distributor; 2 - 2 kOhm resistor; 3 - voltmeter with a scale limit of at least 15 V and an internal resistance of at least 100 kOhm; 4 - plug connector connected to the ignition distributor sensor

By placing a screwdriver in the gap of the sensor, the voltage should change within 0.3–4 V. If the distributor has been completely removed, then by turning its shaft, we measure the voltage in the same way.

Checking the sensor without removing it

The performance of the Hall sensor can be assessed without removing the part from the car, using the diagram provided.

Diagram for checking the Hall sensor on a car: 1 - ignition distributor; 2 - adapter connector with a voltmeter having a scale limit of at least 15 V and an internal resistance of at least 100 kOhm; 3 — plug connector connected to the ignition distributor sensor; 4 - car wiring harness

The essence of the test comes down to connecting a voltmeter to the corresponding contacts on the sensor connector. After this, turn on the ignition and turn the crankshaft with a special key. The presence of voltage at the output, which corresponds to the above values, will indicate the serviceability of the element.

Video: Hall sensor diagnostics

Switch

Since the formation of a spark also depends on the switch, you need to know how to check this device too.

One of the reasons for the lack of spark on the spark plugs may be a faulty switch

You can purchase a new part or perform the following sequence of actions using a control light:

1. Unscrew the nut and remove the brown wire from contact “K” of the coil.
2. We connect a light bulb to the resulting open circuit.
3. Turn on the ignition and crank the starter several times. If the switch is working properly, the light will light up. Otherwise, the element being diagnosed will need to be replaced.

Video: checking the ignition system switch

The performance of the systems and components of the VAZ “six” must be constantly monitored. The occurrence of problems with sparking will not go unnoticed. Troubleshooting and troubleshooting does not require special tools or skills. A minimal set consisting of keys, a screwdriver and a light bulb will be quite sufficient for diagnostics and repairs. The main thing is to know and understand how a spark is formed, and what elements of the ignition system can affect its absence or poor quality.

Checking high voltage wires

After checking the contact spark plugs, we move further along the circuit and test the performance of the high-voltage wires. The instructions below will help you diagnose if the spark disappears on only one of the cylinders:

• swap the wires connected to the spark plugs;
• check for the presence of a spark;
• if it appears on the cylinder to which you transferred the new wire and disappears on the other, then the problem is in the cable. Therefore, the latter will need to be replaced.

In exactly the same way, the integrity of the central wire through which voltage is supplied to the ignition coil is checked. You can also try to press it harder against the transformer and distributor cap to restore contact.

High voltage wires

After the spark plugs have been checked and it turns out that they are not the problem, you need to test to see if anything has happened to the high-voltage wires. Diagnosis is carried out in four simple steps.

• If there is no spark on only one cylinder, swap the wires
• Let's check if the problem is resolved after this action
• If a spark appears on a cylinder, but it disappears on another cylinder, then the problem is definitely in the wire.
• The faulty wire must be replaced with a new one.

Likewise, it would not hurt to check whether the central wire that supplies current to the ignition coil is working properly. Sometimes a spark appears after this wire is pressed harder against the transformer, which is located on the distributor cover.

Causes of sparking problems

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If there is no spark on the injector, and not, for example, on a carburetor or gear motor, you will have to try to identify the reasons for its loss. This is due to the fact that there are slightly more factors influencing spark formation in injection systems and they look more multifaceted. If we summarize the general list of possible causes of the problem, then it is worth highlighting the following most common ones:

• The spark plug or spark plugs are flooded with fuel - there is either no spark or very weak, the spark plugs themselves are wet;
• The spark plug or spark plugs are faulty - there is no spark at all, deposits on the contacts are usually black or white;
• The crankshaft sensor, ignition module, ignition coil, switch or distributor is faulty - there is no spark at all, the engine shows no signs of “life”, the injector does not work correctly;
• High-voltage wires have broken through or there has been a loss of contacts - one or two spark plugs do not work, the rest are fully operational;
• The injector electronics (ECU or wires) are faulty - the unit does not work correctly, there is no spark at all spark plugs;
• The injector nozzles are clogged - there is no spark at the spark plugs of specific cylinders, the injector is not working correctly.

Please note that for a complete and most accurate diagnosis, it is necessary to carry out several procedures at once:

1. Naturally, check for a spark;
2. Assess for the presence of the symptoms described above;
3. Check for relevant errors on the dashboard or on-board computer screen;
4. Check the potentially faulty unit (disassembly, cleaning, diagnostics with a multimeter, etc.).

Checking the contact distributor

The need to check the distributor-breaker arises if problems arise with sparking, but during the diagnostics of the ignition system elements the problem could not be identified.

Cover and rotor

First of all, we inspect the cover and rotor of the device. The check consists of the following steps:

1. We dismantle the distributor cover and inspect it inside and out. There should be no cracks, chips, or burnt contacts on it. If damage is found, the part must be replaced.
2. We check the carbon contact by pressing with a finger. It should press easily.
3. We check the rotor insulation for breakdown by placing the explosive wire from the coil near the rotor electrode and manually closing the contacts of the distributor, after turning on the ignition. If a spark appears between the cable and the electrode, the rotor is considered faulty.

contact Group

The main malfunctions of the ignition distributor contact group are burnt contacts and incorrect clearance between them. In case of burning, the contacts are cleaned with fine sandpaper. If they are severely damaged, it is better to replace them. As for the gap itself, to check it it is necessary to remove the cover of the distributor-breaker and turn the engine crankshaft so that the cam on the distributor shaft opens the contacts as much as possible. We check the gap with a feeler gauge and if it differs from the norm, then we adjust the contacts by unscrewing the corresponding screws and moving the contact plate.

The contacts are adjusted by unscrewing the corresponding screws and moving the contact plate

Capacitor

If a capacitor is installed on the distributor of your “six”, then sometimes the part can fail as a result of a breakdown. The malfunction appears as follows:

• problems starting the engine;
• sudden engine stop while driving.

If the distributor capacitor fails, engine operation malfunctions

You can check an element in the following ways:

1. Control lamp. Disconnect the wiring coming from the coil and the capacitor wire from the distributor according to the figure. We connect a light bulb to the open circuit and turn on the ignition. If the lamp lights up, it means that the part being tested is broken and requires replacement. If not, then it's OK.
2. Wire from the coil. Disconnect the wires as in the previous method. Then turn on the ignition and touch the tips of the wires to each other. When sparking occurs, the capacitor is considered faulty. If there is no sparking, then the part is working.

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting in the ignition system of the VAZ “Six” should be carried out using the method of elimination, checking element by element sequentially. This is worth dwelling on in more detail.

Battery check

Since when starting a car, the power source is the battery, it is by checking this device that diagnostics should begin. Malfunctions with the battery appear when you try to start the engine. At this moment, the indicator lights on the instrument panel go out. The reason could be either poor contact on the terminals themselves, or simply a weak battery charge. Therefore, the condition of the terminals should be checked and, if you need to clean them, tighten the fastening. To prevent future oxidation, it is recommended to cover the contacts with a graphite coating. If the battery is discharged, it is charged using an appropriate device.

Spark plug wires

The next elements that require mandatory checking in case of problems with sparking are explosive wires. Upon external inspection, the cables should not show any damage (cracks, breaks, etc.). To assess whether a spark passes through the wire or not, you will need to remove the tip from the spark plug and place it near a ground (5–8 mm), for example, near the engine block, and crank the starter for a few seconds.

At this time, a powerful spark should jump. The absence of one will indicate the need to check the high-voltage coil. Since it is impossible to determine by ear which of the cylinders does not spark, the test should be performed one by one with all wires.

Video: diagnostics of explosive wires with a multimeter

Spark plug

Spark plugs, although infrequently, still fail. If a malfunction occurs, it is with one element, and not with all of them at once. If a spark is present on the spark plug wires, then to check the spark plugs themselves, they are unscrewed from the cylinder head of the “six” and an explosive cable is put on. The metal body of the spark plug touches the masses and turns the starter. If the spark plug element is working, then a spark will jump between the electrodes. However, it may also be absent from a working spark plug when the electrodes are filled with fuel.

In this case, the part needs to be dried, for example, on a gas stove or installed another one. In addition, it is recommended to check the gap between the electrodes with a feeler gauge. For a contact ignition system it should be 0.5–0.6 mm, for a contactless ignition system it should be 0.7–08 mm.

Ignition coil

To test the high-voltage coil, you need to remove the central cable from the distributor cover. By cranking the starter, we check for the presence of a spark in the same way as with the explosive wires. If there is a spark, then the coil is working and the problem should be looked for elsewhere. If there is no spark, the problem is possible both with the coil itself and with the low-voltage circuit. To diagnose the device in question, you can use a multimeter. For this:

1. We connect the probes of the device, switched on to the resistance measurement limit, to the primary winding (to threaded contacts). If the coil is working properly, the resistance should be about 3–4 ohms. If the values ​​deviate from the norm, this indicates a faulty part and the need to replace it.

Low voltage circuit

The high potential on the ignition coil is formed as a result of applying a low voltage to its primary winding. To check the functionality of the low voltage circuit, you can use a tester (light bulb). We connect it to the low voltage terminal of the distributor and ground. If the circuit is working, then the lamp, when the ignition is on, should light up when the distributor contacts open and go out when they close. If there is no glow at all, then this indicates a malfunction of the coil or conductors in the primary circuit. When the lamp lights up, regardless of the position of the contacts, the problem may be the following:

• damage to the conductor that goes from the distributor terminal to the lever. Eliminated by restoring damaged wiring;
• break in the conductor running from the movable disk to the housing. The malfunction can be treated as in the previous paragraph;
• oxide formation on contacts. In this case, cleaning and adjustment of the elements is required.

No spark on VAZ 2106

Sparking is an important process that ensures the startup and stable operation of the power unit, for which the ignition system is responsible. The latter can be contact or non-contact, but the essence of its work remains the same - to ensure the formation and distribution of a spark to the desired cylinder at a certain point in time. If this does not happen, the engine may either not start at all or run intermittently. Therefore, it is worth dwelling in more detail on what kind of spark there should be and what the reasons for its absence may be.

Why do you need a spark?

Since the VAZ 2106 and other “classics” are equipped with an internal combustion engine, the operation of which is ensured by the combustion of the fuel-air mixture, a spark is required to ignite the latter. To obtain it, the car is equipped with an ignition system, in which the main elements are spark plugs, high-voltage (HV) wires, a distributor-breaker and an ignition coil. Both spark formation as a whole and the quality of the spark depend on the performance of each of them. The principle of obtaining a spark is quite simple and comes down to the following steps:

1. Contacts located in the distributor provide low voltage supply to the primary winding of the high-voltage coil.
2. When the contacts open, a high voltage is indicated at the coil output.
3. High-voltage voltage is supplied through the central wire to the ignition distributor, through which sparks are distributed to the cylinders.
4. A spark plug is installed in the cylinder head for each cylinder, to which voltage is supplied via explosive wires, as a result of which a spark is formed.
5. When a spark appears, the combustible mixture ignites, ensuring the operation of the engine.

What should be the spark?

Normal engine operation is possible only with a high-quality spark, which is determined by its color, which should be bright white with a blue tint. If the spark is purple, red or yellow, this indicates problems in the ignition system.

Signs of a bad spark

The spark can be either bad or completely absent. Therefore, you need to figure out what the possible symptoms are and what could be the cause of problems with sparking.

No spark

A complete lack of spark is manifested by the inability to start the engine. There can be many reasons for this phenomenon:

• wet or failed spark plugs;
• damaged explosive wires;
• break in the coil;
• problems with the distributor;
• failure of the Hall sensor or switch (on a car with a contactless distributor).

Weak spark

The power of the spark also has a significant impact on the functioning of the power unit. If the spark is weak, the combustible mixture may ignite earlier or later than necessary. As a result, power decreases, fuel consumption increases, failures occur in different modes, and the engine may also misfire.

One of the reasons why the spark may be weak is the incorrect clearance of the ignition distributor contact group. For classic Zhiguli cars this parameter is 0.35–0.45 mm. A gap less than this value results in a weak spark. A higher value, at which the contacts in the distributor do not completely close, can lead to a complete absence of a spark. In addition to the contact group, other components of the ignition system should not be overlooked.

An insufficiently powerful spark is possible, for example, when spark plug wires break down, i.e., when part of the energy goes to ground. The same thing can happen with a spark plug when the insulator is pierced or a significant layer of soot forms on the electrodes, preventing the breakdown of the spark.

Spark to the wrong cylinder

Quite rarely, but it happens that there is a spark, but it is supplied to the wrong cylinder. At the same time, the engine runs unstable, troits, and shoots into the air filter. In this case, there can be no question of any normal operation of the motor. There may not be many reasons for this behavior:

• the explosive wires on the distributor cap are mixed up;
• the cover on the distributor is installed incorrectly;
• The spark plug wires are not connected correctly to the spark plugs.

The last point, although unlikely, since the length of high-voltage cables is different, is still worth considering if problems with ignition occur. The listed reasons arise, as a rule, due to inexperience. Therefore, when repairing the ignition system, you need to be careful and connect the explosive wires in accordance with the numbering on the distributor cover.

Repair of VAZ 2106 distributor

On older VAZ 2106 cars, a contact distributor is installed, but such a system is not very reliable - due to malfunctions in the contact group (CG), various problems often arise:

• due to burnt contacts, the engine may not start;
• too large a gap in the CG affects engine power - the engine stops developing speed;
• If there is a small gap in the contacts, the motor jerks and works unstably.

To repair the VAZ 2106 distributor, it must be removed and troubleshooting carried out. Removing the device on the “Classic” is very simple, but before repairing it, it is recommended to align the crankshaft to the mark - this will make it easier to install the distributor after repair. We remove the distributor as follows:

• rotate the crankshaft until the marks align;
• we pull off the tips of the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs;
• unclip the two latches of the distributor cap and see what position the slider is in. If it is directed to the fourth cylinder, we make another full turn of the crankshaft. Usually, with correctly set marks, it should be located as in the picture below;
• pull off the hose from the vacuum regulator;
• unscrew the nut number 13, which holds the distributor, and dismantle the distributor.

Now the PR should be disassembled, perform the following operations:

• unscrew the fastening screws of the runner, dismantle the rotor;
• unscrew the nut located on the body, hold the screw on the other side of the body with a screwdriver;

• dismantle the fasteners, take out the plastic insulator;
• tighten the screws holding the contact group (KG);
• dismantle the CG;
• knock out the shaft pin;
• remove the oil deflector and washer from the roller, pull the shaft out of the housing;
• to get to the bearing, remove the locking washer of the ignition timing regulator rod from the top of the housing;
• Unscrew the bolts securing the regulator, dismantle the ignition timing mechanism;
• unscrew the screws (2 pcs.) that hold the bearing fixing plates;
• dismantle the bearing, lifting it from different sides;

The disassembly is now complete, all that remains is to troubleshoot and replace worn parts.

Which distributor is suitable for the VAZ-2107

On all carburetor rear-wheel drive VAZ cars, the device has almost identical components and a similar operating principle. Distributors for engines with a volume of 1200-1300 cc differ in that: - the drive rod is 7 mm shorter; — no vacuum ignition timing regulator; — the settings of the weights and springs of the centrifugal regulator are different. For engines with a volume of 1500-1600 cc, all distributors are suitable in terms of mounting dimensions and characteristics. Only “Nivovskie” ones differ. They are tuned for stable traction at low speeds and the VAZ-2107 with such a distributor will accelerate slowly. The brands of “Nivovsky” distributors are: 3810.3706, 038.3706-10. And distributors of brands 0.3706 (contact) and 38.3706 (non-contact) are suitable for the “Seven” and other classic cars.

VAZ 2107 injector does not start

• Diagnostic scanner. There is nothing complicated here. If there is an error, then everything is much simpler than when there are no errors at all. In this case, we check the part itself, and then the reasons, if it is working.
• Ignition module. There are several methods worth trying to check, but the most reliable is to go to the store and take it with a receipt for verification. You can immediately talk about returning it if your own is in working order. Of course, not all stores will do this, but most will agree.
• The VAZ engine does not start for one reason. This is quite common among car enthusiasts. The control unit contains two transistors, each of which is responsible for a pair of cylinders. Most often they burn out at the same time, and the spark disappears completely.

• If the spark plugs are dry, then you need to see if voltage is supplied to the injectors, first. To do this, remove the connector from one, connect the tester probes to the connector and ground.
• After you are convinced of this, you need to measure the pressure in the fuel rail.
• Most likely this is the problem. Therefore, you need to check the fuel pump, first of all, the fuse that is responsible for it.
• It is easier to check the fuel pump by replacing it with a known good one, as with the ignition module.

VAZ 2107 will not start: causes of malfunction and solutions

Over the course of operation, the components and mechanisms of the car wear out and problems with starting the engine increasingly arise.

The reasons why the power unit does not start can be different, and it is sometimes difficult to identify them immediately. But you should know at least the main reasons for problems with starting the VAZ 2107.

This will make it possible to personally detect the breakdown and try to fix it on your own, without visiting a service station.

Problems with starting the engine can be divided into two groups. One is related to the formation of a spark, the second is related to the fuel supply. If the engine does not start, then the problem must be looked for in one of the systems:

When starting is difficult, symptoms appear that help determine where the problem is and perform necessary repairs. Therefore, understanding your “iron horse”, you should know possible problems and be able to fix them.

Ignition system failures

The starter may turn briskly, but the engine will not start. The VAZ-2107 (carburetor or injector) most likely cannot move due to the fuel supply system or its ignition. It is better to start with the latter when diagnosing. This system in the presented model fails more often. This is especially true in wet weather.

The contact system of the “seven” can be very different. There are cars with the simplest device (classic) or with a very complex electronic contactless principle. There are also combined options.

In any case, the ignition system will consist of 4 parts. This is a low-voltage group, step-up transformer (coil). Next comes the high-voltage part and spark plugs. The check is carried out step by step (and better from the end).

Troubleshooting the ignition system

Malfunctions of the car’s ignition system are unpleasant because any of them is always accompanied by serious interruptions in the engine’s operation or its complete stop. The main sign of a malfunctioning ignition system is the complete absence or “weak” spark between the electrodes of the spark plugs. What to do if there is no spark, and where to look for it? Read about this and more in our material.

Most often, the spark disappears precisely at the moment when you need to go somewhere. In order not to push the car to the nearest car service center, it is important to understand what the operation of the ignition system depends on, then finding the missing spark will not cause any particular difficulties.

At the end of this article, watch the video instructions for finding a spark in the ignition system of VAZ cars.

Solving the problem yourself

There are quite a few reasons why the VAZ-2107 starts and stalls or does not move at all. You can easily find the problem yourself. But for this you need to be patient, the necessary tools and enough free time. If trouble catches the owner of a car when he is in a hurry about his business, it is better to take another car. It will be possible to repair this later, when there is enough time to carry out diagnostics.

It does not matter whether the carburetor or injection engine is installed on this model. Diagnostics is carried out in any case according to a single scheme.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the battery, whether it is charged. Also, the battery may fail for some reason.

Next, the spark plugs and fuel filters are inspected. You can also check the throttle valve. There may be a blockage in it. This is the simplest test, which sometimes immediately reveals a malfunction. If the cause cannot be determined, a more in-depth diagnosis will be required.

Why the VAZ-2107 carburetor does not start and what to do

Unfortunately, it is impossible to accurately answer the question of why the VAZ-2107 (carburetor) does not start, since there are many reasons for such a malfunction. This can be either a breakdown of a particular part or a failure of a certain system. If we ignore the possibility of a lack of fuel in the tank, then we can say that the car is faulty.

We start the car ourselves

If your VAZ-2107 does not start for the first time since you have been using it, you should not rush to go to a car service using a tow truck. Moreover, regardless of whether your car is fuel-injected or carburetor-powered, you can check for faults yourself. To do this, follow these steps:

Let's sum it up

Spark plugs play a vital role in the performance of a vehicle. If at least one spark plug fails and does not produce a spark, accordingly, one of the cylinders will not work, the car will have increased fuel consumption and will be less dynamic. Finding the reason for the disappearance of the spark is a very difficult task, since several units may be “to blame” for this. However, for normal functioning this is simply necessary.

What to do if there is no spark on a VAZ-2106 car? As is known, this phenomenon leads to the fact that the air-fuel mixture does not ignite and the engine stops starting. Therefore, you will have to look for the causes of the problem without fail.

On VAZ cars, and on the “six” in particular, the spark can disappear due to a variety of malfunctions. But in this article we will describe only the most common of them, and also give useful tips for identifying and troubleshooting problems.

Weak or no spark

First of all, if there are problems with the spark, you need to check the condition of the spark plugs and their performance. Diagnostics can be performed even while on the road.

To check, we unscrew the spark plugs from their seats one by one, place them on ground and look for a spark as the starter rotates.

If there is no spark, we replace the problematic spark plug with a new one, first checking its performance. We screw the product into the spark plug well. When inspecting the spark plug, you should pay attention to the degree of soot.

If it is significant, it leads to weak sparking. In this case, you can try to remove the carbon deposits.

There may be no spark for another reason. Next we check the high voltage (HV) wires. If there is no sparking on any of the cylinders, replace the problematic wire with the wire on the other cylinder. If a spark appears on a faulty cylinder, but disappears on another, then the reason is in the explosive. The faulty wire should be replaced. Usually spark plug wires are replaced as a set.

Starter spins without flashing

In this situation, we first check the timing belt for breakage. If the belt drive breaks, the starting mechanism rotates, but the engine does not start because the gas distribution mechanism does not work. If the belt is intact and in working condition, check sparking and fuel supply.

The starting mechanism rotates, there is a flash, the motor does not start

On a car with an injector, this situation is possible due to a malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) or Hall sensor.

The main reason for a running engine with a carburetor is the volatility of gasoline. If the power unit is warmed up to operating temperature and then turned off for 10-15 minutes, the fuel begins to evaporate, which is the reason why it does not start.

ICE with injector

The reason for the lack of fuel flow to the injector may be a malfunction of the fuel pump located in the gas tank. Let's check its functionality.

If it is working, we continue to search for the cause of the malfunction. If it fails, we repair it or replace it with a new one. It is not difficult to diagnose the fuel pump on a VAZ 2107.

You need to turn on the ignition and listen to how the mechanism works. If it is faulty, it should be replaced.