VAZ-2114 starts and immediately stalls: reason, how to fix?


When cold, the VAZ 2114 engine starts and immediately stalls

The operation of the injection system has always been a weak point of VAZ cars. Low-quality gasoline, counterfeit consumables, inept repairs done by yourself or unprofessional service - the car stalls for any of these reasons.

On older cars of the Samara-1 generation, a similar problem was solved by adjusting the carburetor and ignition. Less commonly, replacing the fuel pump. The electronic injector of the VAZ 2114 is many times more reliable than a carburetor; it starts and works in any weather without causing any trouble.

But if the injection machine still stalls, there can be many reasons for this.

"Women's" reasons

This conditional category includes reasons that sometimes arise for people who are inattentive or do not service their car in a timely manner.

These include:

  1. Buying fuel at “left-handed” gas stations – this category also includes the purchase of cheap “grades” with various additives disguised under the names “E”, “ER” and others. It is not profitable for large chain gas stations to deceive customers, because selling normal fuel is cheaper than giving bribes to everyone, especially when it comes to the scale of the country, but the legislator does not prohibit selling some 95Er, with the alcohol content honestly indicated in the specifications. All drivers know about this, but greed takes over and such fuel kills the engine over time. The same situation has developed around “cheap underground” gas stations selling fuel siphoned off from truckers or military personnel.
  2. Dirty fuel and air filters - a symptom of this problem is when the VAZ 2114 stalls while driving or when you press the fuel pedal. Both filters are involved in the process of forming the fuel mixture, therefore, when the fuel one breaks, the gasoline supply is unstable, and if the air filter is used, the mixture becomes over-enriched, which in both cases leads to flooding of the spark plugs.
  3. Spark plugs - this car part can fail not only due to the reasons described above, but also due to age and improper care. Experienced car enthusiasts check spark plugs in VAZ cars at least once a month. To do this, you need to unscrew it with a spark plug wrench and evaluate the carbon deposits - the working spark plug has a light gray electrode and a light brownish carbon deposit. If the color is different, it's time to purchase a new set.
  4. Lack of fuel - everyone knows that it is better to drive on a full tank, but domestic motorists, due to the constant lack of money, the eternal crisis in the country and other similar reasons, prefer to drive on an almost empty tank and refuel only when absolutely necessary. At the same time, the accuracy of FLS on domestic cars is far from ideal and VAZ is no exception. Therefore, stopping at an angle, driving until the car stalls, topping up the tank on the road from a canister have a very negative effect on the fuel system, debris gets into it, and fuel is constantly supplied along with air.
  5. “Left” service stations - the saying “the miser pays twice” is most relevant when it comes to cars. Garage services, repairs from friends and other attempts to save money often turn into the fact that your VAZ 2114 injector does not idle, there are engine problems, and repairs need to be carried out at an official service center.

Hello, the problem is this: the car sat all winter without driving, in the spring I installed a new starter, started to start it - it starts in half a second, it stalls, when you help, give gas, it choke and also stalls, sometimes a slight sneezing appears, the spark plugs are dry, the fuel pump, the mesh was changed, the spark plugs I changed it, changed the filter under the tank. before wintering I arrived on it, everything was fine, HELP GOOD PEOPLE, FUCK KNOWS :)

Maybe splash some fresh gasoline? With normal refueling.

The fuel pump changed the gasoline to my satisfaction, and I also bought 5 liters just in case - I topped it up, no use

Is the fuel pump pumping? Is there pressure in the fuel rail?

I bought a new nose, I thought it was the problem, I didn’t check the pressure, but what was the point of eating a new nose!?

So it seems that there was an old worker too. And you learned how to change it.

So it seems that there was an old worker too. And you learned how to change it.

Otherwise, maybe from standing in the timing belt for a long time, something has rusted/jammed, and the belt has jumped.

Unfortunately, I don’t really know the Ladovsk motor. In Japan, I would start with the pressure relief valve in the fuel rail.

The sunrise stood for about ten years. They rolled it out, pumped up the wheels, started it, and drove off. There was a Benz USSR. Everything happened in 1988)))

What are the causes of car malfunctions?

If your car starts to have such a problem that it stalls as soon as it starts, then it’s time to take the car in for a technical inspection. In fact, there may be several reasons, and before identifying the true one, you will have to go through almost half of your car. Let's look at what you should pay attention to first.

  1. The car alarm system is not working properly. Modern alarm systems that are connected to the central control unit have many additional gadgets that can negatively affect engine starting. Sometimes even electronics can malfunction and not work correctly. The auto program does not identify the start and stops the supply of electricity to the injectors, which, accordingly, deprives the spark (no ignition).
  2. The idle speed control is inoperative. There can be two reasons for its incapacity - either it is too clogged, or it is not working and will need to be replaced. Poor quality fuel causes blockage and valve failure. Blockages clog the channels through which car mixtures along with oxygen must flow to the parts, this disrupts the ignition process.

To fix this problem, you will need the help of experienced specialists who will carry out ultrasonic cleaning.

Poor quality lubricants may also be the cause. Oil can remain on the cylinder walls and interfere with the normal stroke of the piston. To eliminate this problem, you need to change the oil after thoroughly flushing the engine. The fuel pump is unstable. The device will not have the necessary pressure for the system to operate smoothly, so the fuel supply will be intermittent.

  1. Low quality fuel. This problem leads to engine detonation. The integrity of the heat pipes is compromised, and this leads to air leaks and dilution of the combustible mixture.
  2. The gas exhaust system is clogged. Failure to remove excess gases will block the engine. This problem can only be fixed at a service station.
  3. The fuel or air filter is clogged. If the filters are not kept clean, the system may also fail. It is necessary to monitor the filter parts and periodically clean or change them.
  4. The oxygen sensor may fail and become one of the reasons that the car stalls. Correct operation of the sensor depends on the composition of the combustible mixture. If the composition is incorrect, the device will block further operation of the machine.

How can you tell if the engine is leaking?

Signs that the VAZ 2114 engine is malfunctioning:

  • jerks when driving or accelerating a car - the car does not develop the necessary power;
  • increase in fuel consumption - due to malfunction of the injection system;
  • uneven exhaust - you can hear popping noises and smell unburnt gasoline;
  • vibrating, uneven sound of the engine - due to malfunction of the valves and all rotating parts of the engine;
  • feeling of vibration and “shaking” at idle.

The origin of the phrase dates back to the days of four-cylinder engines. If one of the cylinders failed, three remained operational. Now the engine design has changed, but the common expression remains.

VAZ 2114 starts and immediately stalls reason

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VAZ 2114 starts and stalls after 30 seconds

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Messages: 211 Registered: May 24, 2011, 00:00 Experience: since 2007 Car: 2114

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VAZ 2114 starts and stalls after 30 seconds

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Post by LAR1989 » Jun 25, 2012, 5:13 pm

here are 10 tips on the path to happiness.

1. the ignition switch contact gets hot - it turns off (replace the lock) 2. the ECU or fuel pump relay is faulty - replace all relays 3. the fuel pump is faulty - replace the fuel pump 4. the ECU is “glitchy”, replace the ECU 5. the ignition coil is faulty - replace the ignition coil 6 .maybe RHH is not listening! — replace 7. The temperature sensor may also be to blame. — replace 8. maybe the mass air flow sensor is lying a lot!! — for replacement 9. maybe there is not enough gasoline in the tank?? — top up with gasoline 10. If the wiring has started up, put a glass of water and a crust of bread and salt under the hood!

Why do carburetor cars start and stall?

If the car starts and immediately stalls, the problem may be due to a lack of fuel in the float chamber. You can try manually pumping up the fuel pump. It must be checked for functionality and, if necessary, replaced.

Another reason why the engine stalls is that the mesh filter in the carburetor in front of its inlet is clogged. If the car starts and stalls after a few seconds because of this filter, then it needs to be cleaned and washed. To do this, use a toothbrush and a solvent (gasoline or acetone). After this, immediately, together with the filter, clean the slot into which it is inserted.

It happens that in VAZ cars, a few seconds after starting, the speed drops due to a malfunction of the solenoid valve. The test is carried out as follows: the valve is unscrewed, power is supplied to the positive contact, and the housing is shorted to engine ground. If the valve is working properly, a distinct sound will be heard and the needle will enter the body.

You can simply connect a wire to the valve and put it in place. If you do not hear a click, the valve is faulty. We unscrew the valve and remove the jet from it. If it is bent, it needs to be replaced. Make sure that the valve shut-off needle moves freely, that the valve gasket is not torn and that it is sealed tightly against the body.

If the valve clicks, then you need to diagnose the EPH system. The idle fuel jet may need cleaning. If the car engine speed drops, its clogging can affect the stability of operation. To clean the nozzle, it is necessary to create increased vacuum in the system channels.

To do this, start the car and raise the speed to 3000. Turn out the jet holder (solenoid valve) a few turns. This allows you to create the required vacuum in the channels. We repeat the procedure several times.

What's the result?

As you can see, there are quite a few reasons why the engine starts running and stalls after starting. However, most of them are usually associated with the fuel system, ignition system and electronic control system.

In this case, it is appropriate to talk about low compression in the cylinders due to the fact that the engine has exhausted its service life (the cylinder walls, rings, etc. are worn out), that is, the unit needs major repairs. Compression can be measured at a service station or yourself using a compression meter.

The engine stalls at idle: what to check. Possible causes of malfunction on engines with a carburetor, injector, and diesel power plants.

At idle the speed “floats”: why does this happen? The main malfunctions associated with idle speed on gasoline and diesel engines.

The main reasons why the engine starts to stall after warming up. Frequent problems of carburetor and injection engines, fault diagnosis.

Why the engine may not pick up speed: gasoline engine, diesel unit, car with LPG. Fault diagnosis, useful tips.

The reasons why, after pressing the gas pedal, dips occur and the engine begins to choke. Gas engine failures when switching from gasoline to gas.

Reasons why the engine may stall when you press the brake. The power unit stalls during sudden braking, when the clutch and brake are depressed, etc.

Source: krutimotor.ru

Main reasons

The following reasons can lead to such a breakdown:

  • low level of compression in the cylinders (for example, due to poor valve fit);
  • injector contamination - the injection system is disrupted as a result of poor flow or fuel overflow;
  • lack of spark supply to the spark plug - due to a malfunction of the spark plug or high-voltage wire;
  • air filter contamination;
  • control unit failure;
  • malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor;
  • change in position, or initial incorrect installation of the timing belt.

Failure of one cylinder can lead to breakdown of the entire engine. The gasoline that enters the idle cylinder does not burn out and mixes with the oil. As a result, the oil loses its properties and engine parts begin to wear out.

Fuel pump

If then, of course, the car stalls. The carburetor will work perfectly, but no one gives it gas. On fuel-injected cars, the fuel pump is located under the rear seat. On carburetor engines - near the camshaft (since it is driven from it). If it stops working, the engine may idle normally, but when the speed increases, it will definitely stall. However, if the gasoline pump is completely worn out, the engine will not start at all. To get rid of this malfunction, it is necessary to either repair the pump or replace it completely, which is the most effective. As for carburetor engines, the pump diaphragm drive rod can wear out greatly.

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Floating speed on the carburetor

On carburetor versions of the VAZ 2114 there is no electronic control unit as such. But this does not mean at all that the problem of floating speed is not alien to him.


Tachometer with high speed

Floating speeds do not occur as often as in the case of an injector, but still. The reasons, as well as troubleshooting methods, vary.

  1. The idle speed is set incorrectly, or it got lost during operation. In such a situation, the setting shifts to combining the fuel-air mixture. Here you will need to adjust the speed to the range of 800-900 units.
  2. The solenoid valve is faulty. The engine will only run if the choke is pulled out. If you remove it, the engine will immediately stall.
  3. The idle jet or channels are dirty. In such a situation, the fuel lacks air. Clean the jet and the problem will go away.
  4. Excessive air is sucked in. The mixture becomes leaner, so the engine sputters and stalls.
  5. The level of gasoline in the float chamber increases or decreases.
  6. The air filter is clogged. The problem is solved by simply replacing the element.

If engine vibration occurs at idle speed of the VAZ 2114, there is no need to worry. It's all about the design of the engine. A similar phenomenon is typical for carburetor engines during cold starts. The engine just needs to warm up to the optimal temperature, after which the vibrations disappear.

The reason for the vibrations is the air-fuel mixture , which is prepared by the carburetor before being fed into the combustion chamber. Low temperatures lead to inefficient combustion of the mixture. Hence the “shaking”.

List of reasons for a lean mixture on the injector. What needs to be checked and how to do it?

Before studying the reasons for a lean mixture on an injector, it is probably worth understanding what a lean mixture means (in the very concept), and how this, in principle, threatens the car. However, it is worth knowing the signs of excessive impoverishment, identifying the reasons (unless this was not intended) and being able to deal with them, if in your immediate plans the first item is not a serious repair of the car or even replacing it. The reasons, by the way, are not so varied, and eliminating them is often quite simple. The main thing is to understand what is happening to your car and take action before it gets offended by you and completely refuses to drive, and your nerves become completely unusable. Why is it poor? The reasons for the poor mixture on the injector, as already mentioned, are quite are trivial. Anyone who has an engine with an injector in their car knows that it can regulate the ratio of gasoline vapors to air. However, not everyone thinks about the correct balance. For people who are not inclined to go into technical details, we explain: the norm is the proportion of a kilogram of those same vapors per 15 kilograms of air. It maintains parity between economical consumption and engine power. If the weight of air is reduced to 13 kg, there will be correspondingly more gasoline, the engine will gain more power, but fuel consumption will also increase significantly. In the opposite situation (often admitted with full awareness of what is being done), when air is introduced in an amount of 16 kg, power drops by 10 percent compared to an enriched mixture, but the savings increase by 15-20%. However, further dilution of gasoline leads not only to a decrease in engine thrust, but also to an increase in consumption: trying to crawl up some hill, you press on the gas, burning more fuel, and efficiency is zero. Therefore, no one sets the injector to 20 kilos of air per 1 gasoline. That is, there is something wrong with the unit itself. Signs of leanness The main and main symptom of a lean mixture is a stalling engine. A very weak mixture leads to the fact that the engine does not start at all, and if it starts, then when you try to move, it immediately runs out of steam. It’s just that the mixture is not rich enough and the car jumps and moves jerkily when driving. However, this driving style is not only characteristic of a lean mixture. A car can behave this way even if it has problems with any part of the ignition - coils, spark plugs, distributor cap, cables, coal or slider. Therefore, we need to look at other, indirect or less noticeable signs. Experienced drivers recommend the following: Turn out the spark plugs and look at their color. If they are light brown, the injector is working properly; dark - not enough air; light – its excess. However, carbon deposits cannot serve as an accurate indicator - its shade does not correspond to the norm both when the ignition is set incorrectly and when there are errors in the selection of the spark plugs themselves. For more details, read the article “How to check spark plugs.” Shooting or popping noises in the muffler. If the mixture is lean, the muffler emits an automatic burst without strong recoil; if it is too rich, it produces separate, noticeable explosions. Individual symptoms may indicate various flaws, but collectively, they may indicate problems with the injector. Ideally, of course, it would be worth picking up a gas analyzer, but few people have one lying around on a shelf in the garage. Factors causing depletion There are only 3 of them, and we will look at each in detail.

  • The most common is dirt. It clogs the injectors and filters, resulting in insufficient fuel supply to the engine;
  • Extraneous air leak. Either a crack has appeared in one of the hoses and pipes connected to the manifold, or it itself has become depressurized, or some connections are poorly tightened;
  • The fuel pump died quietly. Or it’s still alive, but works at a quarter of its strength, which means it will have to be changed anyway.

By the way, about dirt. If your injector has mechanical injection, then it may also clog the pressure regulator. As a result, the backlash on the dosing plunger increases. Dust and debris also clog dosing channels and filter screens (this is also true for injectors with electronic-mechanical injection). Whatever the reasons for the poor mixture on the injector, they must be eliminated immediately - if you want to drive your car and not wander around him when he stops, stalling a long way.

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After starting, the engine stalls immediately: why does this happen?

During the operation of a car, a common situation is that after turning the ignition key, the car starts, the engine starts to work and stalls after a few seconds. As a rule, 3-5 seconds pass from the moment of starting to stopping the internal combustion engine. Before the engine stops completely, engine vibrations are also noticeable, the power unit shakes and operates very unstable.

This happens as a result of a decrease in speed, the resonance effect of a rotating crankshaft, etc. When you try to start the engine again, the engine may no longer start, or the situation described above may repeat again.

The reasons for this problem vary. The main thing is that if the car starts and stalls, this indicates that in-depth diagnostics are needed. Next we will talk about what to do in such a situation, as well as how to find the reason why the engine stalls after starting.

What do drivers recommend?

In addition to the basic rules for operating a car, while driving and repairing their car, each driver gains additional knowledge and experience.
Such nuances are learned as a result of mistakes made by the owner of the vehicle. Drivers share their experiences with each other, so you should also listen to the recommendations of car enthusiasts. All drivers claim that it is prohibited to disconnect the terminals from the battery, especially from the injectors. A low charge level has a bad effect on starting the engine. You should not disconnect the mass for a long time in modern cars. The electrical unit that controls the engine may delete all data due to a lack of power.

It is not recommended to use the charging-starting device frequently, since it produces too strong current fluctuations, which sometimes leads to the unit burning out.

From the above, it becomes clear that there are many reasons why a car may not start. Even an experienced car mechanic is unable to determine the breakdown immediately. Therefore, if you feel that you cannot cope on your own, feel free to contact a service station. If you still decide to figure it out on your own, then inspect every centimeter of your car. Step by step you will discover the true source of the problem.

The timing marks on the VAZ are not set correctly

Another reason why the VAZ 2114 does not start may be a mismatch of the timing marks. The reason for the mismatch of the marks may be weak timing belt tension, cut teeth, or the crooked hands of a mechanic at a service station.

A discrepancy of more than two teeth will noticeably affect the operation of the engine of the fourteenth. With a slight deviation, the engine starts up a little worse, does not hold idle, and stalls when switching to neutral gear. If the deviation exceeds 4-5 teeth, the sound of the engine changes, air escaping under pressure through the valves that are not opened in time becomes audible, thrust noticeably disappears, and starting the engine is extremely problematic.

  1. To check, we need a “10” key; use it to unscrew the three bolts securing the timing case.
  2. Next, put the car in 5th gear and push it until the mark on the camshaft pulley and the rear cover match, you can also turn the pulley with the key to “17”
  3. We remove the protective plug from the clutch housing and see if the mark on the flywheel matches the mark; if not, then you need to loosen the tension roller and align the belt according to the marks.

Checking the crankshaft sensor VAZ 2114

Perhaps this is the only sensor without which a VAZ car will not be able to start at all. If, when the engine is cranked with the starter and the ignition and fuel supply are working properly, there is no seizure or ignition of the fuel, then the problem is in the DPKV. The cost of the sensor does not exceed 300 rubles; it is better to replace it. However, there is a way to check: checking the crankshaft sensor video

If after the performed operations it was not possible to determine the breakdown, please write your problem in the comments, I will be happy to answer your question!

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