Every motorist understands how important the role that the heating system plays in a car is. If it works properly, then operating the machine in winter brings a lot of pleasure. But when the VAZ-2112 stove does not blow into your feet, this becomes a real problem that needs to be solved as quickly as possible. It is not at all necessary to contact a service station, this is extra money and wasted time, because with the onset of cold weather there are a lot of such would-be drivers and it is not a fact that your car will be serviced first.
Salon VAZ-2112
Causes of poor foot airflow
Heater malfunction
Air through the cabin filter is taken from the street by the rotating blades of the electric heater motor. Through a damper system, air is distributed through air ducts and supplied into the cabin through deflectors and non-adjustable grilles.
Air, like any gaseous medium, tends to follow the path of least resistance. Therefore, it is logical that the air flows first come out of the central and side deflectors. The feet of the driver and passengers are blown last. Structurally, the air ducts to the central deflector and the upper side airflow points have a larger cross-section, and it is much easier for air to pass through them.
Initially, you need to make sure that nothing interferes with the intake of air from the atmosphere. After all, if the air is supplied in insufficient volume, then it will not be enough to supply all airflow points with the intensity that was calculated at the design stage of the car.
Check the condition of the cabin filter. To do this, remove the wipers and frill. The cabin filter is located on the right side of the vehicle under the windshield. It is covered with a plastic casing, which is secured with four self-tapping screws. Unscrew the screws and remove the cabin filter. We start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature and check the operation of the stove. If the situation has improved, change the cabin filter and close the issue.
The second common cause is a clogged heater core. In this case, the heating of the interior will be weak, because warm air does not come out of all the deflectors well, and not just into the legs. But the fact is that when driving for a long time, your feet begin to freeze first, so it seems that the problem is in this part of the airflow.
Video: Why the stove does not blow at the feet of VAZ 2111,2110
This malfunction is easily diagnosed. We find two pipes for supplying antifreeze to the heater radiator (rubber hoses on the left side in the direction of travel of the car). With the engine warm, carefully touch the two pipes one at a time with the heater running at full power. The difference in temperature between the pipes should be minimal. If one pipe is hot and the second is cold or barely warm, we wash or replace the heater radiator.
Checking the operation of the dampers
There are nine exit points for air flows from the heater on the VAZ-2110:
- central deflector;
- two side deflectors and two windshield air vents;
- heated feet of the driver and front passenger;
- two outputs for heating the feet of rear passengers.
In an ideally operating system, the pressure generated by the heater motor is sufficient to create an effective flow to warm the feet. However, over time, gaps form in the joints of the air ducts, and the dampers of the VAZ-2110 heater begin to fit loosely to the body. This leads to atomization of the air flow. As a result, a minimum amount of air reaches the distant exit points.
First, dismantle the panel with the central deflector. It is held in place by four plastic clips. To remove it, simply pry it off one of the sides with a suitable object, such as a flat-head screwdriver. Be careful: the clips are fragile.
Evaluate the operation of the damper. In older cars with a manual damper drive, pay attention to the play in the linkage of the rods. A broken rod system will not allow the damper to fit tightly to the body in the extreme position, which will cause air to leak from the cold circuit. The problem is corrected by adjusting the damper. In a mechanical drive, it is possible to shorten the rod due to a movable lock on a gear rod or a threaded tip. During the adjustment process, check that the position of the switch on the panel corresponds to the actual position of the damper.
Let's sum it up
Minor factory deficiencies of the VAZ-2110 stove can be eliminated by almost every car owner without significant effort and serious investment. If the stove does not heat with the intensity required for complete comfort in the car interior, it is enough to carry out a high-quality modernization of the heater elements responsible for supplying warm air.
The problem when the heater in the area of the driver’s feet does not heat well can be eliminated by eliminating cracks in the air ducts, the heater valve, and the dashboard. Minor modifications to the heater air distribution unit and air ducts will significantly improve the quality of heat supply to the cabin. Thus, not only the problem of heating the driver’s feet is solved, but also complete, high-quality heating of the car interior is ensured, and the level of comfort will increase.
Improvement of the VAZ-2110 foot airflow
If all of the above procedures did not help, then most likely you are simply not comfortable enough with the operation of the standard heater. Many motorists note: in severe frosts, even with a fully functional heater, the airflow of the feet is not enough to feel comfortable behind the wheel. While scalding streams of air emerge from the central and side deflectors. This is a design feature of the car.
There are several ways to increase the efficiency of foot airflow on a VAZ-2110 car.
- Disabling the rear footwell air circuit. It is advisable to carry out this procedure if you rarely carry passengers in the rear seats. To turn off the rear foot airflow on the VAZ-2110, you will need to remove the gear shift lever cover. The rear heater circuit air duct window is located in the front part of the rocker housing. A piece of foam rubber tightly placed in this area will close the passage channel and cut off the rear contour. Now, when the foot blower mode is turned on, air will flow only from the front of the cabin.
- Increasing the area of the outlet openings. The grilles on the plastic foot airflow panel are small. You can increase them yourself. This will slightly increase the flow of air coming out of them. Removing the panel on the driver's side is simple: it is held on with self-tapping screws. Unscrew the screws and remove the panel. We are looking for a suitable material that will serve as a lattice. We cut holes in the plastic and secure the prepared grid with glue or self-tapping screws. As practice has shown, this method increases the flow of warm air into the leg area.
- We eliminate the loose fit of the dampers. To do this, we prepare foam rubber strips 3-5 mm thick and glue them to the surfaces of the dampers adjacent to the body. This will allow the dampers to completely block the cold air supply channel in the interior heating mode, which will increase the efficiency of the heater.
An integrated approach to modifying the heater will significantly increase the efficiency of heating the feet.
Who has encountered the modification of air ducts in the legs of a VAZ 21124, produced in 2007, new panel. The problem is that there is bad air in your legs, you need to ride for an hour or an hour and a half for your legs to start warming up. I saw on the Internet that the “Yolka” was remade with corrugations. What other options are there for remaking the “Christmas tree”? I saw somewhere a guy made flaps in the tree itself, maybe someone can send me a link to this modification?
If the heater in a VAZ car blows poorly on the sides or the warm flow does not reach the feet, then this is not always a sign of a malfunction. The stove in domestic cars most often already comes with defects. Other examples are constant fogging of windows during rain or lack of heat for rear passengers. We can solve these problems with the help of modifications to the VAZ 2110 heater. But to understand why the heater does not work well, you need to familiarize yourself with its design.
Basic faults
The driver's legs often suffer in domestic cars. Because of this defect, not only does the driver freeze, but the windows also fog up, which is also not very pleasant. This directly affects the control of the car. Why does the heater blow badly into your feet? It's all about the plastic block for distributing warm air, which among motorists is called a “herringbone”. Initially, this block has small gaps. To upgrade, we need to make sure that the stove is in full working order, that is, it is blowing warm air.
The repair is carried out as follows:
- We dismantle the torpedo and disassemble it.
- We get to the blower pipes. You can already solve the poor airflow of the side windows: seal all the cracks that are present on the panel, or install a new corrugated hose.
- It will be great if you install a corrugated hose and seal the panel.
- It is best to cover the cracks with Anti-creak. You need to go through all the holes with fasteners.
Now you can upgrade the stove damper. When assembling a VAZ 2110, the damper is unreliably pressed against the panel body, as a result, some of the heat is lost and remains in the dashboard, and the stove does not heat 100%.
- To solve the problem when the stove does not blow well into your feet, you need to completely dismantle the damper and remove the standard seal. All cracks and the valve itself should be treated with Madeleine. This operation will create an ideal "path" for the heated air. On the body of the VAZ 2110 we need to install bitoplast-10, which will replace the standard sponge. It needs to be glued in several layers.
- After this, your feet should receive more warmth. Another problem is the loss of heat on the way to the glass from the driver's seat. This gap is removed with polyurethane foam; as a bonus, there is no creaking.
- Feet can freeze not only for the driver, but also for his passengers. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to modernize the air ducts. Heat is distributed throughout the cabin by a block that usually has a large gap. You can seal it using a corrugated tube. After this, the stove heats and blows more intensely.
Options for improving the heating of the area around the driver's feet
To solve the problem of poor-quality heating of the driver’s feet, you need to start by improving the plastic air distribution unit. To do this, you need to completely dismantle and disassemble the car dashboard. After that, you can begin to seal the cracks. At the same time, sealing the holes will solve another important problem of the VAZ-2110 stove - poor-quality blowing of the side windows.
Most often, drivers use two methods to seal the elements of the heating system of a car: the first involves replacing the corrugated hose for air supply with a new product, the second involves gluing all elements of the heating system where there are holes.
It is best to use both methods in parallel. Anti-creak product is very suitable for eliminating holes. With its help, you need to glue all the existing holes around the perimeter of the parts for supplying air to the car interior. And at the same time it is necessary to seal and seal the cracks in the vehicle panel.
The next stage of work is the modernization of the heater damper. To do this, the valve is dismantled and the factory seal is removed, which copes very poorly with the assigned tasks. The heater damper and the places where it is attached to the car body must be treated with modelin or silicone to eliminate cracks. Next, instead of the standard sponge, you need to glue the bitoplast in several layers. This will help reduce the loss of warm air as much as possible and will accompany the supply of heat along the right path.
If all manipulations are carried out correctly and efficiently, the heat supply towards the driver’s feet will increase significantly. At the same time, experts advise using polyurethane foam to close the gap at the beginning of the air path to the driver’s side window. This will ensure high-quality heating of the side window, eliminate the problem of fogging or freezing, and increase the level of visibility for the driver.
Alternative options for upgrading the stove
The first method is to dismantle standard air ducts. They go from the main tunnel under the back row. Due to the hard plastic, the warm flow does not reach the rear passengers. By installing more modern air ducts, we will get a more pleasant result. Some drivers prefer to dismantle them altogether so that hot air flows directly - this is also a good option, but the temperature may be too high.
The third option is suitable for those VAZ 2110 owners who very rarely carry rear passengers. It consists of completely blocking the flow to the rear of the car. This can be done with suitable material. For example, polystyrene foam. The main thing is that the material can withstand high temperatures. The hole can be closed at the outlet of the distribution block. The result is a powerful flow to the feet of the driver and front passenger.
An excellent option for solving a heating problem is to replace the standard 5-hole thermostat with a 6-hole one. The effect will be noticeable: after turning the knob one and a half turns, the cabin thermometer on the on-board computer will not show less than 90 degrees. The temperature remains stable, and the stove heats better.
Useful information on using the heater
The above methods help improve interior heating. But it wouldn’t hurt for motorists to familiarize themselves with the operating rules of the stove and adjacent systems. This will help keep the heater in working condition:
Cold air from the stove
Throttle lever cable
In addition to a leaky design, there may be other problems with the stove. For example, the heater is not working at full capacity, cold or barely warm air is blowing from the blowers. The stove works this way due to the weak tension of the damper control cable. We need to solve this problem by making several turns of the cable on the control lever, which is located on the heater body. The housing is located near the gas pedal.
Why does the stove work poorly and blow cold air because of this cable? The fact is that each joint of the air ducts and the damper is covered with foam rubber. Because of this material, the control lever requires a lot of force to compress the flaps. As a result, a gap of 2-4 mm appears. The damper that takes in “fresh air” through the radiator or from the street does not close well. After a few millimeters, the outside air flows directly into the side and top blowers. At speed and with the fan running, the air does not have time to heat up, so the stove operates in “summer” mode and does not heat the interior well.
Formation of air jams
If, when the antifreeze is at operating temperature and the tap is open, cold air is blowing from the deflectors, then most likely the radiator is not working properly - there are air pockets in it. The problem is solved quite simply: the VAZ 2110 is installed so that the front wheels are higher than the rear ones. That is, to a suitable height where the engine operates normally. Next, we need to fully open the tap and press the gas pedal. The engine runs for about 5 minutes - during this time we sometimes need to press the gas pedal. After this, everything needs to be returned to its original position.
Faucet
Malfunctions may be due to the faucet, which often leaks. You can check how it works manually. This element is located under the hood next to the heating element. To eliminate malfunctions when a faucet leak is detected, you just need to replace it. Some motorists decide to simply remove the tap from the VAZ 2110 system, since the stove works and blows without it. But by removing it, we will not be able to control the temperature of the antifreeze.
Problem solving
Now let's talk about how to solve emerging issues, troubleshoot problems and return the heater to normal operation.
Each breakdown requires separate consideration.
Broken motor
Temperature not regulated
If the temperature of the air flows cannot be adjusted, the problem is hidden in the control unit or damper, or the temperature sensor on the ceiling inside the cabin does not work.
Be sure to check that the damper is not stuck. It can be accessed through the engine compartment. If replacement is necessary, replace the standard plastic damper with an aluminum product. It is more durable.
Blowing cold
If the heater on your VAZ 2110 starts blowing cold air, you need to look for the reasons. The cause of the failure lies in the gear motor. A similar situation occurs in 9 out of 10 cases, so it is unlikely that you will have to look for alternative culprits.
Air flows with a broken damper
The gearmotor needs to be replaced. This is done as follows:
- Wipers are removed;
- The frill is dismantled;
- Unscrew the three screws that hold the gearmotor;
- The wiring is disconnected;
- A new one is installed in place of the failed device. Ask your assistant to switch the position modes of the regulator, and at this moment you will mount the gearmotor;
- The frill and wipers are returned to their place. Work is done.
But there is 1 case out of 10 that will force you to change the heater due to wear and tear of the old one. As the practice of VAZ 2110 owners shows, the heater from 2112 is best suited for replacement. Moreover, you can choose between two stove options - 2112-01 or 2112-02. The first one does not have an air filter, while the second option has one.
The windows fog up, the feet are not heated
It is not uncommon for VAZ models to have a problem when air flows normally from the stove, but it does not heat the feet and does not flow onto the windows.
Modification of air ducts
It would not be superfluous to install a pre-start heater. Due to it, the interior warms up faster.
Coolant leaks
The stove may not heat up due to the fact that the level of coolant, that is, coolant, decreases. Do not rush to add antifreeze to the tank. First, be sure to check for signs of leakage in the pipes and connections.
Problems with the stove on a VAZ 2110
The heater is very noisy
Many owners of the domestic “ten” are faced with a situation where a working stove makes a lot of noise. In this case, everything works fine, air flows spread throughout the cabin in the same way as the regulators are set.
The noise does not affect efficiency, but it becomes seriously annoying over time. Sometimes it seems that the stove will be covered with a copper basin, although it can make noise for a long time without consequences for the integrity of the device.
Let's try to figure out why it makes noise.
- If the noise is similar to a squeal, or the sounds are sharp, check the fastening of the lower part of the stove. The fact is that fastening is carried out using hooks that can come off. This is what makes the noise.
- The heater body sometimes gets damaged by the protrusions holding the retainer. In this case, the housing simply needs to be replaced with a new one.
- If the fan itself is noisy, remove it, clean it, and check the condition of the electric motor.
- The textolite washers, which are designed to prevent axial play of the fan, may also hum. Any low friction washers will be suitable as a replacement. For example, elements made of fluoroplastic. Be sure to lubricate the washer. Some people use regular machine oil, but it really only gives a temporary effect. The best lubricant in this case would be thick graphite grease or lithol.
