Oil pump VAZ 2114: principle of operation and replacement

  • Signs and causes of oil pump failure
  • How to replace the oil pump?
    • Tools
    • Replacement
  • Useful video
  • In conclusion

A device such as the oil pump on the VAZ 2114 performs one main function - it serves to supply oil to the moving elements of the engine and, thus, lubricates them. It is powered by the operation of the motor itself. On some VAZ models, the pump is mounted on the crankshaft, on others it has additional adapter units, including an additional shaft, a drive belt and other parts that serve to transmit rotation from the crankshaft to the pump.

Oil pump VAZ 2114

Due to the fact that the pump itself has a fairly simple design, problems with it are extremely rare. The nominal service life of this unit is at least 120,000 km of vehicle mileage. Maintenance of the pump is also extremely simple - you just need to periodically replace the oil with new one. The recommended replacement period (prescribed by car manufacturers) is every 10,000 km.

In practice, it is recommended to change the oil more often than every 10 thousand km, since used oil contains an increased amount of metal and abrasive particles, which, in turn, can lead to rapid wear of the oil pump.

Operating principle of the oil pump

Signs and causes of oil pump failure

If the VAZ 2114 oil pump starts to malfunction, this immediately affects the oil pressure in the system (it drops sharply), as a result of which the warning light comes on. True, it’s not worth replacing the pump with a new one right away. You should first check whether the sensor itself is working? This is very simple to do - you need to take the wire coming from this device and press it to ground (motor housing).

If the sensor is working properly, the emergency light will go out immediately after pressing. In this case, the pump will still have to be repaired. If the lamp continues to glow, then the sensor itself is not working and will need to be replaced.

Oil pressure light on panel

There can be several reasons for an oil pump failure. Most often, its gears fail (especially often when the oil is changed infrequently, which, as already mentioned, causes abrasive wear). In addition, there may be problems with the filter valve (it may get stuck), as well as with the sealing elements. In the latter case, oil leaks from the system.

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The oil pump circulates pressurized oil through the engine to lubricate all engine parts. If the oil pump is worn out or does not turn, the engine oil pressure will drop, which can cause engine damage or failure.

First signs

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The oil pump circulates pressurized oil through the engine to lubricate all engine parts. If the oil pump is worn out or does not turn, the engine oil pressure will drop, which can cause engine damage or failure.

The first signs of trouble may be low oil pressure or a knocking sound inside your engine.

Typically, for most engines, you only need about 0.7 atm per 1000 engine rpm. Oil pressure will be higher when the engine is cold because the oil is thicker at this point. Oil pressure will gradually decrease as the engine warms up and the oil thins.

So normal oil pressure in a warm engine when driving at cruising speed on a highway is usually from 2.1 atm to 3.1 atm.

The first thing to do if any of these symptoms appear is to stop, turn off the engine (let it sit for a few minutes), then check the oil level on the dipstick. If the oil level is below the minimum mark, add oil and bring the level to the maximum mark. Then start the engine.

If the warning light stays on, or the oil pressure gauge doesn't creep back up to the normal range, or the engine noise doesn't go away, you may have a bad oil pump.

Of course, there may be other reasons such as a pressure sensor, oil filter, pressure indicator, oil receiver.

Diagnosing the oil pressure sensor.

If the engine doesn't make any unusual noises and seems to be running fine, the oil level is fine, but you still get a low oil pressure warning light, then the oil pressure sensor may be the culprit.

The oil pressure sensor is installed on the engine block. Inside the sensor there is a spring-loaded and pressure-sensitive diaphragm with a switch

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This switch completes the low oil pressure warning light circuit if oil pressure drops below a certain threshold.

The device may stop working if the diaphragm inside does not move, if the switch is stuck, if the hole through which oil passes into the sensor is clogged, if there is a poor connection (corrosion, broken connector or faulty wiring).

On vehicles with an electronic pressure gauge, the oil pressure sensor has a small rheostat inside that sends an alternating voltage signal when the diaphragm moves. If oil gets on the rheostat or any of the other problems just described can cause problems.

To test the oil pressure sensor, connect a mechanical gauge directly to the oil pressure port on the engine and check the engine oil pressure

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If the pressure gauge shows normal oil pressure, but the sensor indicates low pressure, the problem is a faulty sensor.

On the other hand, if the pressure gauge shows low pressure, there is a possibility that the oil pump is worn out, or it is not taking in enough oil due to a clogged oil receiver.

Oil receiver.

The oil pickup tube has a screen with a mesh at the end to prevent large pieces of debris from entering. Through the oil receiver, oil from the engine crankcase is sucked into the pump. Normal wear particles, carbon, dust or other microscopic abrasive particles, enter the oil pump and can cause pump wear over time.

The only way to check the oil pickup is to remove the oil pan from the engine. If the oil pickup tube is clogged or broken, replace it. It is very difficult to clean the tube and screen as debris can remain inside and out of sight.

Oil pump wear.

The oil pump is the only engine component that is lubricated with unfiltered oil.

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Remember that the oil filter is installed after the pump, so the oil pump sucks completely unfiltered from the crankcase (except for relatively rough cleaning with an oil pickup strainer)

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Therefore, if the oil has not been changed for a long time, or the vehicle is operating in a dirty, dusty environment, or the pistons and cylinders are worn out and there is increased blow-by of gases into the crankcase, the oil pump will wear out at an accelerated rate.

If the mechanisms inside the oil pump are worn out, or there are excessive gaps between the gears and the pump body, pressure leaks inside the pump and it cannot supply the operating oil pressure to the engine.

Rotating gears inside the oil pump housing suck oil from the crankcase, through the oil receiver, and into the pump. Then the oil, through the pump, enters the oil filter under pressure. If the oil is cold and thick, the bypass valve on the oil filter will open and allow unfiltered oil to bypass the filter.

This is to ensure that a cold engine will still develop normal oil pressure until it warms up and the oil thins.

Oil pump design.

There are three main types of oil pumps:

1) Two gear pumps, where one gear is connected to a shaft that is driven by a camshaft or intermediate shaft

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This type of pump is typically installed inside the oil pan at the bottom of the cylinder block. The pump speed is half the engine speed.

2) Gerotor pumps, which have a rotating small gear inside a larger external gear. This type of pump can be installed at the bottom of the engine in the oil pan.

3) Internal pumps, which are usually installed on the front cover of the engine and are driven by the crankshaft. The design of this pump is like the gerotor pump, but this type of pump replaces the front cover of the engine and the rotation speed is the same as the engine. Thus, more oil flow and pressure can be generated.

Oil pump repair.

All you can do is take the oil pump apart and look for obvious signs of wear or damage. Typically, wear occurs in the oil pump housing, which leads to excessively increased clearances between the gears and the oil pump housing. To remove this gap, you will either need to replace the housing or weld and then adjust the worn area of ​​the housing.

It would be most advisable to replace the oil pump with a new one.

Replacing the oil pump.

When replacing the oil pump with a new one, make sure it is the pump for your engine

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A pump that does not have sufficient flow capacity can lead to oil starvation of the engine. On engines where the pump is bolted against the bottom of the block, there may be gaskets or an O-ring between the pump housing and the engine.

Oil leakage may occur here, so make sure the gasket or o-ring is installed correctly.

Do not reuse an old oil pan gasket, even if it is rubber and not cork. Install a new gasket to seal leaks.

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How to replace the oil pump?

Tools

Before we talk about how to remove the oil pump on a VAZ 2114, we first outline the list of tools necessary for this:

  • open-end wrenches “10” and “13”;
  • set of socket heads;
  • gimbal adapter;
  • extension;
  • crank/ratchet;
  • highly desirable - a torque wrench.

Removing the oil pump

Replacement

Before moving on to the description of replacing the oil pump, it is worth noting that according to the rules, the crankshaft oil seal is also replaced at the same time.

The replacement of the VAZ 2114 oil pump itself is carried out in the following order:

  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the corresponding battery terminal.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove the belt from the generator.
  4. Remove the belt from the camshaft.
  5. Using a pair of screwdrivers, remove the pulley from the crankshaft (after this you should pay attention to the key - if it does not sit tightly on the shaft, you should remove it and set it aside so as not to accidentally lose it).

Crankshaft key

  1. Remove the engine oil sump.
  2. Remove the pair of bolts securing the oil pickup to the main bearing.

Oil receiver mounting bolts

  1. Unscrew the bolt securing the oil pump to the oil receiver and remove the latter.

Bolt securing the oil receiver to the oil pump

  1. Unscrew the six bolts that secure the oil pump (important - there are flat washers under each bolt).

Oil pump mounting

  1. Use a screwdriver to pry up the oil pump, resting it between the main bearing and the pump cover, and then move it.
  2. Remove the pump from the crankshaft.

Removing the oil pump

At this point, the entire process of removing the oil pump can be considered complete.

After the camshaft drive belt is removed during the dismantling process, it is strictly forbidden to turn both the camshaft itself and the crankshaft.

Reinstalling the oil pump occurs in exactly the same order, but in reverse order. Before starting installation, you should inspect the pump and rotate its main gear so that the protrusions on it coincide with the splines located on the crankshaft, and the working edge of the oil seal must be lubricated with liquid lubricant and carefully tucked into the crankshaft journal.

Setting the drive gear lugs to the correct position

After the new oil pump is installed, a new oil filter should be installed, and then oil should be added to the system. Then you should start the car engine and let it idle for at least three minutes - this is necessary to distribute the oil on its moving elements. After this, the car can be operated as usual.

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