VAZ 21214 does not start, the injector starter turns, there is a spark

Silence when trying to start the engine

The Niva crankshaft cannot be turned by the starter.

There may be several reasons:

  1. Blown fuse.
  2. Poor contact between battery terminals.
  3. The battery is completely discharged.
  4. Failure of the starter solenoid relay.
  5. Failure of the intermediate relay that switches the starter circuit.

First of all, you should pay attention to the dashboard. When you turn on the ignition or the main electrical circuit in the engine, the lamps should light up on the dashboard or information should appear on the on-board computer, if we are talking about the Chevrolet Niva.

If this does not happen, the cause should be sought in the fuse box and in the battery contacts. During operation, oxides may form on these contacts, increasing the resistance. Loose contact connections can lead to sparking and burning.

If no blown fuses are found, you should check the reliability of the “+” contacts of the battery with the central wire and the “-” contacts with the vehicle ground.

To eliminate the malfunction, be sure to replace the fuses and clean the contacts. It would be a good idea to acquire even the cheapest tester in order to quickly check the presence of voltage in the electrical circuits of the car.

5.1. Engine

5.1.1. The engine will not start

Problems with starting a car engine can be divided into two main groups depending on the degree of engine heating.

Engine cold

From the moment the engine was turned off, at least 6 hours have passed at an outside temperature of +20 °C and at least 3 hours at –20 °C, the oil temperature in the engine crankcase coincides with the ambient temperature and to start the engine it is necessary to use the carburetor choke.

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Engine is warm or hot

The oil temperature in the engine crankcase is higher than the ambient temperature and there is no need to use the carburetor choke to start the engine.

Malfunctions in the starting system

Malfunctions in the starting system manifest themselves in abnormal operation of the starter. There are five main starter malfunctions:

1. The starter does not turn on.

The reason is a violation of contact connections, a break or short circuit in the starter activation circuits, a malfunction of the additional starter activation relay, or a malfunction of the traction relay.

2.
When the starter is turned on, multiple clicks are heard.
The reason is a malfunction of the holding winding of the traction relay, the battery is severely discharged, and the contact connections in the starter circuit are loose.

3. The starter turns on, but its armature either does not rotate or rotates slowly.

The reason is a discharged battery, broken contact connections, burnt contacts of the traction relay, dirty commutator or worn brushes, interturn or short circuit in the windings.

4. The starter turns on, its armature rotates, but the flywheel remains motionless.

The reason is a weakening of the starter's attachment to the clutch housing, damage to the teeth of the flywheel or drive gear, slipping of the freewheel of the drive, breakage of the lever, drive ring or buffer spring of the starter drive.

5. The starter does not turn off after starting the engine.

The reason is a malfunction of the starter freewheel, sintering of the contacts of the traction relay. In the event of such a malfunction, stop the engine immediately!

6. These malfunctions require qualified intervention from car service specialists.

First, you can only check the degree of discharge of the battery using a voltmeter on the instrument panel and the tightness of the contact connections in the starter circuit.

Checking the ignition system

Your vehicle is equipped with a high energy contactless ignition system. A voltage of about 40,000 V is supplied to the high-voltage wires, and although at low current levels it is not life-threatening, a possible electric shock when checking the ignition system can lead to serious consequences. Therefore, if you handle a high-voltage wire with the ignition on, use a thick rubber glove or, as a last resort, pliers with insulated handles. Before checking the ignition system, set the gear shift lever to neutral and leave the parking brake on.

To check, you will need screwdrivers - slotted and Phillips, pliers with insulated handles and a tester or 12 V test lamp with two wires connected to it. You can also use a car carrier if you have one.

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Checking the carburetor engine power system

Warning

When checking the power system, do not smoke or use open fire under any circumstances!

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Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that, we hope, you also have. Don't lose either one or the other. If a missing tie out of nowhere or a pant leg burnt by an iron can cause a business meeting to be disrupted, what can we say about a car that doesn’t want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (child – to school, wife – to the hairdresser, and yourself – to forge a penny), you jump into the car, “key to start” and... What the hell... One more time. Also... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the very beginning. Plans and mood are down the drain.

Calm down. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing the oily dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. You probably won't be able to cure it in 5 minutes. Take another car, and leave the treatment of your sick friend until the evening. And it’s better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car and you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer, well, try it yourself, if you’re not too lazy to get dirty or there’s no other way out.

The diagnosis must be made calmly

Mentally examine the symptoms. First, does the starter turn? And if so, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened the first time you tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: “Take another car...”), or there is a problem with the battery - it has turned off or died. Only in rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse - about 300 amperes - it is not difficult to find, especially if you know in advance where it is located. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has come off or is dirty, but the battery is fine. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if equipped). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the headlights at night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, from a hill or from a tow. Don’t try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if it has an electric fuel pump) will not be able to start using these methods. I'll have to light a cigarette at my neighbor's. However, for some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter turns on, but is sluggish (this happens in the summer, in winter this is a subject for a separate discussion), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be visible by weak headlights or weak signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, but the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further considerations. Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can’t go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. It’s better to start with the ignition - problems occur there more often. Especially in wet weather.

A spark will ignite...

So, we need to look for a spark. Your car may be equipped with a classic (simple) contact ignition system, a rather complex electronic contactless one, or some combination. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, called an ignition coil in the world. Part three is high voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which high voltage current is supplied to the spark plugs). And of course, the candles themselves. The inspection of this entire enterprise must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage one. High voltage part of the system. Check to see if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the body of the car (it doesn’t matter whether it is painted or not), and secured so that there is a gap of 5–7 mm between the tip and the selected part.

If your car has an electronic ignition, the wire must be fastened especially securely - if it falls on ground, the electronics will instantly die for a long time. For the same reason, you should not scratch the wire across the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even with your own - it will give you a serious electric shock.

Stage two. Crank the engine with the starter. At the same time, watch what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

The first step is to remove the distributor cap. It may be damp and dirty underneath. Along such a “conductor” the spark readily jumps anywhere, just not where it needs to be. Wipe, clean and dry. At the same time, it is not harmful to clean the distributor contacts, for example, with fine sandpaper. Inspect the so-called “runner”. If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cap, the part will have to be replaced.

Carefully check the wires going from the distributor to the spark plugs. Wires and their tips must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the malfunction was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn out, clean and dry the spark plugs - in an attempt to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the spark plugs will still have to be turned out, cleaned and checked. It's easier if you have a spare set.

If you have already reached the stage of turning out the spark plugs, you can quite effectively (and impressively) check the entire ignition system as a whole. Having connected high-voltage wires to the turned-out candles, collect the candles in a bunch, like carrots, and wrap the bare soft wire directly along their threaded part. Make sure the wire makes contact with each spark plug but does not touch the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed the bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with the starter. In this case, cheerful sparks should jump between the electrodes of the spark plugs in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders). If so, then the entire ignition system is fine. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the spark plugs turned out. Don't twist for too long. It’s worse if at the second stage of testing there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the “housing”. This means that the problem is not in high-voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if you don’t have one, you can use an under-hood light bulb. True, you will need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. In a classic ignition system, you need to connect a light bulb between ground and the input of the primary winding.

At the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: voltage is either supplied to the coil or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to be changed. More often there is poor contact in the attachment of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet mud, through which the spark flows to an unknown destination. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but underneath there remains an invisible, very narrow strip of dirt - a good conductor.

If at the third stage you are convinced that voltage is not supplied to the coil, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. You can’t handle electronics (the switch and, less often, the sensor in the distributor housing) - you need special equipment to diagnose them. You can only tug on the sensor connector on the distributor body - maybe it will help. If you have a car with a classic contact ignition system, you can look further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the breaker - they may oxidize, especially if the car has been standing still for some time. The contacts must be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper or a special needle file.

Twitch the cleaned contacts so that they either close or open. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so you can pull without fear. If cleaning does not help and voltage is still not supplied to the coil, we once again advise you to stop trying to resuscitate the car for a while, since further difficulties will begin.

If voltage appears (the light blinks when the contacts are pulled), restore everything that was loosened and disassembled, start the car and, perhaps, it will still have time to go about its business. If it doesn’t start, but is at least sneezing, turn out the spark plugs and...

Don't press to the floor - it won't help

It may also happen that the entire ignition system has been checked, everything is fine, but the engine, even if you crack it, still won’t start. This means that there are problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - the power system, i.e., the supply of fuel to the engine.

If you have a car with fuel injection (injection supply system), do not touch it (the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was she who broke: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - that means it’s her, my dear. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and among artisans, repairing it is useless and even harmful.

In a conventional carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - a tank, a fuel pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can dig deeper yourself. The first step is to make sure that gasoline is entering the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and press the manual fuel pump lever. If a fairly powerful stream of gasoline starts flowing, everything is fine, it’s time to move on to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is supplied to the carburetor regularly, but for some reason it does not flow into it. If you have the time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to press the accelerator pedal sharply. Or you can sharply pull the throttle cable yourself. At the same time, look into the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you won’t see anything): if a trickle of gasoline does not appear in the first diffuser, it means that there is no gasoline in the float chamber. It is not there because the valve needle is stuck or (this happens not very often) the fuel filter in the carburetor is completely clogged - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or the jets are clogged. The filter is cleaned by blowing, however, if you do not have the necessary skills, it is better not to mess with the carburetor internals at all, deal with a stuck needle valve, clogged jets and other subtleties - let the specialists do this.

If there is a stream in the diffuser, pay attention to the carburetor starting device - it quite often fails. On foreign cars, starting around the 70s, automatic air damper control is used. The device, without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the damper as needed, enriching the mixture when starting the engine. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulation of the air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal tips. Before starting any manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. You don't have to install the air filter yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and God bless you (after returning the air filter to its place).. If, when checking the fuel supply with a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline does not come out of the hose or the stream is very thin, the cause must be sought in clogged pipelines, a fine fuel filter or the gas tank itself - you can easily demonstrate your skill by pumping the gas line with a tire pump in the direction opposite to the movement of gasoline, i.e. from the carburetor to the tank. Booming, gurgling sounds should be heard in the tank.

With a fine fuel filter everything is simple. Although on almost all modern models it is made in a transparent case, the degree of its contamination cannot be visually determined. A dirty filter will allow the engine to start, but will not allow it to drive normally. If it's completely clogged, you won't be able to start the engine. The most effective check: remove the filter and, if you don’t have a new one, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the housing of a ballpoint pen, preferably transparent - you can see how gasoline flows. Do not try to clean the filter - the sealed (or sealed) housing cannot be disassembled.

If you come to the conclusion that your car’s fuel pump is not working and you don’t have a spare one at hand – “Take another car...”.

We left a rare, but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working normally, you have already spent a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power are in perfect order, but the car, nevertheless, does not start - it is worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The difficulty is that you will have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic casing covering the belt. Perhaps the teeth of the belt were cut off - belts, like people, lose teeth from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain camshaft drive do not face this problem). The procedure for replacing the belt is not complicated, but it is troublesome. Carried out in a hospital. It’s good if everything is limited to replacing only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire cylinder head - this also happens.

About the causes of atherosclerosis

Let's try to explain why the circulatory system of a car is sometimes affected by “atherosclerosis.” Gasoline is the lifeblood of the car. And the blood must be clean and flow through clean vessels. And the fact that “cholesterol” accumulates in the vessels beyond the permissible limit, as a rule, is our own fault. Do you often use a canister to add gasoline to your tank? If so, then the chances of clogging the fuel line and filters increase, especially if your funnel does not have a mesh. Debris, rust, sand usually accumulate in the canister, and if the inside of the canister is painted, then paint particles. It is clear that the smaller the amount of intermediate containers used on the way of gasoline from the dispenser to the tank, the better. Oddly enough, even at the most seedy gas station there is less dirt in the tanks in specific terms than in a “home” canister. The scourge of our gas stations is not so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. In our memory, only one swindler was burned by diluting gasoline, and even then not with water, but with donkey urine, and not in life, but in the movies (see “Gentlemen of Fortune”). So you'll have to put up with it. However, in order not to add water to domestic diluted gasoline yourself, try to always keep the tank full. Condensation accumulates in an incomplete tank, especially in the off-season, when sudden temperature changes occur.

Fewer parasites

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, there is no point in providing operating instructions here. We will give just a few additional tips on how to keep your battery viable longer. Don't get carried away with stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that a certain reserve is provided in the energy balance of the car, allowing two or three “freeloaders” to connect, does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car - have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unintended connections yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified, surgical intervention in the electrical wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt. Troubles.

If your battery is dying, try not to rev the engine during numerous stops in the city. Nothing abuses the battery more than frequent use of the starter.

And lastly (this applies not only to the battery, but to all electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips must be dry and clean and fit well to their “destination points”. Dirty, oily insulation breaks through sooner or later, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) reason for the failure of the ignition system. Or a fire.

We can stop here. Meticulous car enthusiasts have undoubtedly noticed some of the superficiality of our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to go deeper into the jungle. Not to provoke you into self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself should remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to your doctor. Helps the treatment a lot.

Hello! I have a VAZ 21213 Niva, when I turn the key in the ignition switch there is no characteristic noise of the fuel pump turning on. . What to do? Thank you! (Pavlov Sergey)

Good day, Sergey. We will talk about the reasons for the failure of the fuel pump below.

Clicking noises when trying to start the engine

If all contacts and fuses of the Niva are normal, you should turn the ignition key to the “start” position and listen to see if the relay clicks. If clicking sounds are heard clearly, the problem may lie in the starter voltage relay, the solenoid relay, or the starter coil circuit.

In “male” car services, the serviceability of the solenoid relay is usually checked by closing its contacts with a large screwdriver until the starter begins to rotate. For safety reasons, this should not be done under any circumstances.

If the problem is in the intermediate relay , then it is quite easy to replace it on the Niva. It is enough to insert the new relay block into the terminal block, observing the sequence and polarity of the connection.

To check the serviceability of the solenoid relay , the starter will have to be removed. After this, holding the starter, you should connect it to the battery and apply voltage to the contact of the solenoid relay. If a click is clearly heard, then the solenoid relay is working properly.

Perhaps the cause of the malfunction is oxidized and burnt contact pads of the starter . To check them, you should disassemble the solenoid relay and clean the contact group. Sometimes the solenoid relay is non-separable and must be replaced along with the contact group.

If the solenoid relay works, but the starter rotor does not rotate, it is necessary to check the condition of its brushes, which may have worn out so much that they have lost contact with the winding. In this case, repairing the starter costs little money.

If the rotor is jammed or its winding is burned out, it is best to replace the starter assembly.

Chevrolet Niva does not start: three different sensors

The crankshaft position sensor will not indicate its failure in any way. The Check light will not light up, the engine will simply not start. Finding this sensor is easy if you know where the alternator belt is (see photo).

DPKV sensor connector

Here we check the serviceability of the wiring, as well as the distance from the sensor to the “teeth” (0.8-1.2 mm).

The second suspicious element will be the temperature sensor. The engine may not start only if it breaks. In this case, the electric fan should work without turning off. That is, a break in the DTOZH sensor circuit is easily recognized.

Element “6” is DTOZH

In the photo there is a sensor, and to get to it, the air duct is removed.

If the idle speed control malfunctions, the engine on a Chevrolet Niva does not start, but the starter turns. By the way, the Check lamp may be on. Diagnostics:

  1. Just lightly press the gas and turn on the starter;
  2. If the engine starts, but without gas it does not start, it means the IAC is faulty.

The starter rotor turns, but does not rotate the engine crankshaft

In some cases, the starter turns on, but instead of starting the Niva engine, a whistle or grinding noise is heard. Possible causes of the malfunction in this case are failure of the overrunning clutch mechanism (“Bendix”) or jamming of the retractor relay rod.

In the first case, it is necessary to replace or repair the overrunning clutch, and in the second, clean the retractor relay rod and lubricate it with grease recommended by the manufacturer. Any Litol type lubricant is suitable for this.

The engine starts but soon stalls

The most common reason for this behavior of the Niva engine is the presence of any obstacle (air lock, clogged filter or failed fuel pump) in the path of fuel, or its complete absence. Look at the fuel level sensor. Perhaps you simply forgot to refuel your SUV, or the fuel left the tank against your will (it was leaked or drained by criminals).

In this case, be sure to check the integrity of the tank surface, all hoses and the filler neck shut-off device.

To check the serviceability of the fuel pump on gasoline carburetor engines, simply remove the hose from the carburetor inlet pipe and lower it into a previously prepared container.

After this, within 15-20 seconds you should crank the engine crankshaft with the starter, or pump up fuel manually. At the same time, a pulsating stream of fuel should appear from the hose. If this does not happen, the fuel filter must be replaced, and the fuel pump must be repaired or replaced.

In hot weather, when the car is left idle for a long time in the sun, another problem can occur: a vapor lock in the gas line. To remove it, you should use a regular tire pump, put its hose on the fuel supply fitting going to the gas tank and pump the pump several times. As a rule, this is quite enough to start the Niva engine.

In a Chevrolet Niva with electronic fuel injection, to determine the health of the fuel pump, you need to turn on the ignition and listen. When the electric pump is working properly, a quiet buzzing sound is always heard. If nothing happens when you turn on the ignition, and when you remove the hose, gasoline is not under pressure, you need to check the electrical circuit of the fuel pump, replacing the failed parts.

Another typical malfunction that causes the engine to stall is that the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) bracket is broken off. In this case, it is useful to check its fastening, as well as the condition of the wires and connectors.

Fuel rail

On the ramp next to regulator 5 there is a control fitting 3. It is closed with a cap, which is unscrewed and then carefully pressed on the spool.

If fuel flows, it means it is entering the ramp. But perhaps the necessary pressure is not created. Reasons: clogged filter cylinder, pump malfunction, etc.

The pressure should be 350 kPa (3.5 bar). It is controlled by unscrewing the spool and installing a pressure gauge. Before checking, you need to reduce the pressure!

If fuel does not flow, notice whether the pump turns on when the key is turned to the “I” mark. When the ignition is turned on “cold”, the pump should run for 10 seconds.

Additional mounting block

Know that fuse F2 and relay P4 are responsible for turning on the pump. There is also a main relay P5, and all these elements are located in a block mounted on the same bracket with the ECM (see photo).

Even if the pressure is normal, the injectors may be clogged. In addition, their wiring may be damaged.

Case from practice

What happens if water gets into gasoline? In the summer - nothing. And in winter, the power supply system can become clogged with ice. All elements are at risk, from the pump to the injector valves!

Fuel supply line filter

A small amount of water is always present in fuel. If this number is increased, this is what happens:

  1. The first start always goes without problems;
  2. Then, after leaving the car in the parking lot, after 2-3 hours the owner will no longer be able to start the engine without repairs.

All of the above applies to any injection internal combustion engine, including the VAZ-2123. And the “first candidate for failure” will be the fuel filter. It is located under the bottom of the Chevrolet Niva and is encased in aluminum (see photo). However, this is done on many cars.

Pumping up excess air

One smart book says that the engine may not start due to the fact that the intake manifold draws in too much air. This means you need to check the fastening of all pipes. But not only.

Vacuum brake booster

The source of “excess air” may be a faulty VUT. The starter turns, the engine on the Chevrolet Niva does not start, and the reason, it turns out, must be sought in the brake system!

We won't look for anything. Let's do it simpler:

  1. The vacuum supply hose is removed from the amplifier side (see drawing);
  2. The hole in the hose is closed with a finger and one test run is performed;
  3. The engine starts, which means the cause has been found.

That's the whole trick. We wish you success!

Despite its apparent simplicity, defects in the air supply system are difficult to detect. Check the fit of the hoses on the fittings and the tightness of all clamps.

The starter turns the engine crankshaft, but the engine does not start

The widest range of Niva malfunctions, sometimes combined (several malfunctions at once that prevent the engine from starting and operating), is much more common than others. When describing such cases, we do not take into account engines with a faulty or unregulated gas distribution system, unregulated ignition and fuel supply system.

In frosty weather, the engine may not start due to insufficient battery charge. In this case, it is more advisable to remove it from the car, bring it to a warm room, thaw it, wipe it dry from condensation and charge it to the maximum voltage value.

If you urgently need to start the engine, you should unscrew the spark plugs, clean them of frost or condensation, then screw them back into place and try to start the engine again.

In some cases, you can use the emergency method . Boil water, remove the plastic casing and pour boiling water over the intake manifold. Then try to start again.

Under no circumstances should you start a cold Niva engine “from a pusher” or from a tow. There is a risk of serious damage to it.

Set of "electrical" reasons

The first step in diagnostics: remove the cap from any spark plug, install spark plug A17DVRM and, holding it with pliers, turn on the starter.

How to remove the cap

The spark plug must be held by the hexagon, the pliers must have insulated handles, and the spark plug body must touch the “ground”. As a result, a spark can be observed. If there is no spark, it means:

  • The ECM is faulty or is not receiving voltage;
  • The ignition coil module burned out;
  • High voltage wires are faulty.

Ignition system is faulty

Another main obstacle to starting a VAZ 2121 gasoline engine is the ignition system. Malfunctions in the heating system of a diesel engine can also make it significantly more difficult, and in cold weather, completely impossible to start it.

If a gasoline engine does not start, you should first check for high voltage on the center wire, or on the spark plugs with a separate ignition system without a distributor.

If the car has a contact (battery) ignition system, you should check the gap between the contacts, the condition of the cam, and also the capacitor. If the gap between the contacts does not correspond to the required value or the capacitor is shorted to ground, the reason has been found !

In other cases, you should definitely check the wires, distributor cap, and spark plug insulators for high voltage leaks. If there are black carbon tracks and cracks on the surface of these parts, they must be replaced.

ignition system is checked in a similar way . Particular attention should be paid to the spark plugs. There should be no traces of soot, soot, or oily deposits on the surface of their electrodes. Only the presence of a gray or brownish-red coating is allowed, which appears as a result of the combustion of various additives in gasoline.

You should also pay attention to the gaps between the central and side electrodes. Typically, the gap should not exceed 0.7 - 0.8 mm. Other parts, for example, quenching resistors and silicone wires should not have a resistance higher than 15 - 20 kOhm. When identifying the cause, also pay attention to the condition of all contacts, the presence of moisture and condensation.

The main difficulty when starting a diesel engine with a known good fuel supply system is faulty glow plugs. To check them, just turn on the voltage supply to them for 10-15 seconds, and then try to start the diesel engine. Glow plugs with a burnt-out spiral are quite difficult to distinguish from serviceable ones, so they must be identified by their electrical resistance. If the spark plug resistance is too low (1 - 5 ohms) or tends to infinity (several megaohms), the spark plug must be replaced.

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International Niva Club

Message by [email protected] » Sep 29, 2010, 11:56 am

Good day to all! Guys, help, sometimes the car won't start! Even the caburator servicemen can’t understand what’s going on. In general, this is what happens! As soon as it’s damp outside, for example, it was yesterday after the rain, or before that in the spring, when there was a thaw and everything was flowing. In general, the engine spins vigorously as usual, but it doesn’t even catch. doesn't grasp at all. What I tried: (at the moment when it wouldn’t start) I installed new spark plugs, it was no use, I wiped the distributor cover, looked at all the contacts for the presence of water on them (everything seemed dry), I completely cleaned the carb (Solex). and everything is just useless...it also twists and doesn’t grab. and then out of the blue it grabs and starts right away. By the way, there is always a spark on all four spark plugs. And the most interesting thing is that when it doesn’t start like that (I tried this once), then I immediately press it from the pusher literally from two meters. brbrbrbrbr..with half a turn

Yesterday this crap happened again, but it started on its own after probably the tenth attempt. And in the spring I had a lot of trouble with this plant. In the summer there were no problems with the plant AT ALL. everything is as it should be! In winter, it also starts normally, but as soon as there is snot on the street, that’s it. what could be the problem?

Bladerunner: “I had similar bullshit - condensation gets into the carb and it sets on fire, I don’t even remember how I got over it. I changed the air filter, changed the lid of the pan. "

Here's what it would sometimes start after: Once after cleaning the carb it started right away, another time after unscrewing and tightening the spark plugs (just stupidly checking), but the rest is not clear at all! And yesterday I pulled the caps off the spark plugs from two, checked how the others were sitting, turned the key to start and off we went. Maybe try replacing the spark plug wires? They are old...maybe there is a problem with them?

simbir: “When it doesn’t start, you open the carb and press the gas sector, fuel should come from the accelerator, if there is none, there is a fuel pump, a needle, a filter in the carb. If there is fuel, then the problem is the ignition. Most of all it looks like a hall sensor or switch, take a close look at the slider, it’s even easier to replace it right away. And then we change the parts in ascending order of the price of the parts: hall sensor, wiring to the distributor/switch, switch, coil. And the point is not even that there is a spark, because it can disappear. Maybe you're starting it wrong somehow? How about playing with the gas pedal when starting up and so on?

«

Bladerunner: “nah, the hall sensor is in the distributor, and the XX sensor is in the carb. You downloaded a book from the “Do it yourself” series.. everything is written there with pictures.” Captain: “It was such garbage, the switch died. I replaced it, and how my grandmother whispered!

but there was a spark, and there was gasoline. Apparently, it wasn’t always there!”

No fuel supply

Often the engine does not start if the fuel supply system . Attempts to start such an engine are usually accompanied by popping noises, shots in the muffler, the appearance of black smoky smoke and a strong smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe. A malfunction in a carburetor engine is usually determined visually.

It is enough to shine a flashlight into the primary and secondary chambers. If there are traces of gasoline on the walls, and fuel does not spray out of the accelerator pump nozzle, but flows out in a thin stream, it is necessary to urgently identify and eliminate the malfunction. To accurately determine a malfunction in an injection engine, you need special equipment connected to the vehicle’s diagnostic connector, capable of reading error codes and faults .

To determine the serviceability of the injectors, you should disconnect them from the ramp, and then ask an assistant to crank the engine with the starter. If gasoline flows out of the injector nozzle in a thick stream or does not flow out at all, the injector should be washed in an ultrasonic bath or replaced.

To avoid various surprises along the way, it is recommended that you always check all engine systems before leaving, eliminating minor faults. For example, loose contact, friction of wires and hoses on various protrusions, leaks of oil and other liquids, etc.

In this case, you can not only eliminate minor breakdowns, but also identify and prevent more serious ones, which can lead to significant expenditure of effort and money. Always stay mobile. Good luck on the roads!

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