Replacement and installation of starter Lada Largus
After carrying out comprehensive diagnostics and identifying the breakdown, we prepare consumables and tools for repairs. We use additional lighting if natural light is not enough.
- We place the car on an inspection hole, preferably a lifting mechanism, after squeezing the parking brake;
- Turn off the ignition, raise the hood, disconnect the terminals from the battery (key to “10”);
- We remove the casing of the electronic control unit (ECM) by first pressing out the plastic clips on the sides. For convenience, we use a flat-tip screwdriver;
- We unscrew the fastening of the expansion tank, move it to the side, do not disconnect the pipes;
- Disconnect the gearbox drive cables JR5, JH3, remove the cover, rods, and spacer bushing;
- We unscrew the two nuts - clamps, and remove the PU from its regular place.
The design of the Lada Largus allows you to remove the PU from under the bottom of the car, it is not at all necessary to remove it through the top.
This completes the dismantling. Next, the technician installs a new starter, having first made sure that there are no defects, cracks, or chips. However, not all car enthusiasts can afford to purchase a new PU. They prefer to restore the existing one.
The cost of a new starting device is from 6,500 rubles, depending on the brand. While repairs will cost 2–4 thousand rubles. The difference is obvious.
Algorithm for complete disassembly of the starter
Most often it is necessary to replace: brush holder, relay, drive.
We disassemble the mechanism into its component parts, wipe it dry, blow it out, and remove waste products. If necessary, use fine sandpaper.
- We check the armature winding for absence of charring;
- The surface of the shaft journal is free of scratches;
- We measure the resistance of the winding core with an ohmmeter;
- We check the soldering of the winding on the lamellas.
We complete the assembly, install it in its original place, and start the engine for testing.
TO-1
Primary maintenance 1, as required by the maintenance regulations, is performed after the 15,000 mileage or one-year ownership period. The error allowed for this value is 500 km. This allows you to determine the presence of design defects with which the car left the assembly line and eliminate all identified defects. According to the first maintenance schedule, only the engine oil complete with filter is replaced. This is to keep the unit in a safe condition. Some regions have more severe operating conditions (low temperatures, dust, etc.). Such situations require a reduction in the maintenance period 1, which the future owner should discuss with the supplier and secure the agreement in the service contract. This is prescribed by the maintenance regulations.
Sometimes there are cases of expanding this list with additional works. The owners inform that during the first maintenance of their car, the service technicians also replaced the brake pads, since these components would hardly survive until the subsequent scheduled service; this is done as prescribed by the maintenance regulations. Another category of Lada Largus owners claim that they have witnessed the replacement of stabilizer bushings. This can be caused by both difficult operating conditions and a factory defect. During maintenance, if you study the maintenance regulations, the fact of increased wear of the discs in the brake units may emerge. This requires qualified adjustment of the system as a whole. In terms of its cost, TO-1 is not a very expensive undertaking, since the owner will say goodbye to an amount of 2.4 - 2.5 thousand rubles.
Air filter Largus
Oil filter for Largus
Let's sum it up
Solid mileage does not make the LADA Largus car fresh. At the 100,000th mark, you can detect pockets of corrosion on the thresholds and encounter failures of electronic sensors in many systems, both external components and interior equipment. Also, owners are faced with the need to replace suspension elements, be it shock absorbers or levers, and this is the whole list of work.
At 150 thousand mileage, the camshafts will need to be replaced, and the “number” on the odometer of 200 thousand may necessitate a major overhaul of the LADA Largus engine.
Further stages of maintenance
They are almost identical to the previously discussed stages, but with their own nuances. The frequency of further maintenance remains at a 15 thousand interval.
Now let us point out the similarity of the subsequent stages with the previous ones, that is, those we previously considered:
- TO-5 is similar in content to TO-1;
- TO-6 is practically no different from TO-2, with the exception of the addition to the regulations for replacing fluids in the brake and cooling circuits; THAT 2 cost is also an important point.
- TO-7 is again identical to TO-1;
- TO-8 does not differ from TO-4, however, a procedure for replacing the timing belt drive is added.
Further, the service book does not contain information about maintenance, but dealer specialists recommend visiting a repair terminal after every 15,000 mileage interval of the LADA Largus. The list of repair work will repeat the contents of the previously completed maintenance stages.
Instructions for replacing spark plugs on an 8 valve K7M engine
So, remove the tip from the candle and before we begin to remove it, use a pump or a rag to clean the area around the candle. This is necessary to ensure that no dirt or grains of dust get into the well.
Using a 16mm spark plug wrench or a similar head, unscrew the spark plug and screw in a new one.
Then we put on the tip and replace it on the remaining cylinders.
The tightening torque of the spark plugs is 25–30 Nm.
If you remove all the tips from the candles at once, then remember how they stood, or carefully look at the order in which they were installed. Each wire is installed on a specific cylinder; the number can be found on the module (ignition coil).
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Changing the engine oil and oil filter
Changing the oil in an 8-valve engine is easier. But for ease of use, we recommend purchasing an original cup puller. It is relatively inexpensive, and it is more convenient to work with. The drain plug can be unscrewed with an 8-square wrench. It also needs to be purchased in advance, before starting work. Access to the drain plug is possible through the slots in the standard protection of the engine compartment.
It will be more convenient to get to the oil filter of a 16-valve engine from an overpass or inspection hole. In this case, the protection must be removed; to do this, unscrew the six bolts and go in from below. If it is not possible to lift the car, you can get up from above by removing the protective screen of the fuel rail. Here a puller - a filter cup - will be very useful to us. You can’t cope here without it; the communications of the power steering, generator and air conditioner interfere with access. Even when using a puller, work carefully so as not to damage them.
