The key does not turn in the ignition - what to do?

To start driving a car, you must first start the engine - every car owner knows this, and even people who are very far from automotive topics. On most cars, the electric charge from the battery is supplied to the starter through the ignition switch contact group. You need to insert the key into the lock, turn it to the first position to turn on the ignition, then to the extreme position. Only then will the starter work. But there are situations when the key does not turn in the ignition. Don't panic. This problem can be solved.

There are several reasons why this annoying malfunction occurs. Let's look at these reasons and repair methods.

What is he like?

Here is a unit used on GAZ, ZIL, Moskvich, Volga cars and other models produced in the USSR.
The ignition switch is used to connect consumers of electrical energy to the vehicle’s on-board network; it turned on the starter to crank the crankshaft and start the power unit. The design of the device did not have any means of protection against car theft. In case of failure, it is enough to remove the wires from the contact plates, to continue movement, just short them together.

If you can’t turn the starter, don’t despair too much. This can happen due to deformation of the key itself or jamming of the larvae. Before disassembling the switch, try resuscitation. WD fluid is well suited for this purpose; it should be injected into the cavity of the faulty ignition switch. Sometimes lightly tapping the body restores the switch's functionality. Difficulties in turning the key may be caused by natural wear and tear on the lock slats. If there is a second copy of the key, compare them and make sure the products are identical. If noticeable wear is detected, order a duplicate of the product.

The appearance of the first VAZ models showed drivers a completely new design of the device. He had a vehicle anti-theft device. After pulling out the key, the steering wheel locked, making it impossible to continue driving. In the era of fuel shortages at gas stations, drivers turned off the ignition while driving to save gasoline; as a result, the steering was blocked, leading to emergency situations.

The photo shows a representative of the VAZ 2101-2107 family of switches.

This model is not a problem-free product; breakdowns occur in such units. Moreover, problems occur in the contact group, the locking mechanism, jamming occurs, and the lock cylinder falls apart. Contact group problems are easily solved. The wires are removed, and consumer circuits are switched manually. You can continue driving for a long time; the car’s protection against theft becomes practically zero.

To prevent the steering wheel from jamming, you should remove the inoperative device from its seat. This operation will require several Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers. First of all, you should remove the plastic steering column cover and disconnect the wiring. The switch is fixed with screws, they should also be unscrewed. Next, use a thin screwdriver with a flat blade to press the latch in and remove the product out.

To replace the larva you need to disassemble it, you will need:

1. Drills with a diameter of 2 and 4 mm;
2. An awl with a strong tip, 30-40 mm long;
3. Small side cutters, knife.

Procedure for replacing the larva:

• The chrome cover is rolled in three places; it needs to be bent and removed;
• A locking pin is found under the cover; it should be removed;
• A hole is drilled next to it with a 4 mm drill approximately 2 mm deep;
• In this recess, a hole is drilled with a smaller drill, but at an angle to the pin;
• When the drill reaches it, drilling is stopped;
• Now an awl comes into play, they push the pin out;
• Use the sharp tip of a knife to remove the faulty larva.

Reassembly must be done in reverse order.

Causes of the problem

Car ignition switches are quite reliable devices. Before the first problems associated with wear arise, the car manages to travel from 100 to 300 thousand km, depending on the brand and country of manufacture. In order to avoid getting into an unpleasant situation, the car owner must clearly grasp the moment when the key gets stuck in any position and take measures to correct the problem.

There are 5 main reasons why the ignition switch of a modern passenger car jams:

• the locking of the shaft connecting the steering wheel to the rack is triggered and does not disengage;
• the moving parts of the secret mechanism are heavily clogged;
• working wear of elements (on cars with high mileage);
• condensate freezing;
• deformation or mechanical damage to the key.

Note. The listed problems have been successfully eliminated on new cars with keyless entry and push-button engine start.

The purpose of the locking system is to mechanically lock the steering shaft in one position and simultaneously disable the starter. If an attacker manages to break the locking rod and turn the steering wheel, it will still not be possible to start the engine. This nuance should be taken into account when troubleshooting a broken lock. A characteristic sign of a malfunction is the key jamming in the Lock position.

Clogging of the cylinder with dirt is a consequence of lubricating parts with conventional automobile oils, including motor oils. These liquids strongly attract dust, which accumulates inside the mechanism over time. At a certain point, the key jams and jams in any position except Start. Accordingly, it becomes difficult to remove it.

Similar symptoms are observed as a result of natural wear and tear of the locking mechanism on cars with a mileage of 200 thousand km. Over a long period of use, the grooves of the secret part of the key are also damaged, which does not allow them to clearly interact with the cylinder. Sometimes car enthusiasts themselves damage the working side of the key by using it as a lever (for example, to open traffic jams). The soft alloy bends and cracks easily from such exercises.

Information about the design of the starter and its supply wiring

An automobile starter is attached to the engine block and is designed to impart rotation to the crankshaft through a ring gear on the circumference of the flywheel. The main components of the starter:

• An electric motor consisting of a rotor, a stator and a brush unit that powers the rotor windings.

• Freewheel with drive gear (Bendix). This also includes the simplest mechanism that moves the coupling along the shaft.

• Solenoid relay. A powerful solenoid that controls the supply of the clutch and also closes the power contacts of the electric motor.

Two electrical circuits are connected to the starter, a power supply and a control or signal circuit. The first supplies all the energy consumed during operation, and the second serves to turn the device on and off.

Starter operation in normal mode

When the driver gives a command to start the engine, the ignition switch contacts that switch the starter are closed, and voltage is supplied to the control relay. It is used to unload the contact group of the lock from high currents of the pull-in winding. Sometimes this relay is missing, then the ignition switch is made more massive, capable of switching without being burned by significant currents.

After the relay or ignition switch, if it is absent, the signal comes to the control contact of the solenoid relay. Both of its windings are triggered, after which the retractor is excluded from the circuit, and the retainer continues to supply power through the power contacts to the electric motor. At the same time, due to the movement of the solenoid armature, the freewheel engages with the flywheel, imparting rotation to it from the starter. When the engine starts, it throws the clutch back, thereby preventing the starter from “racing” at high uncontrolled speeds. The driver turns off the starter, removing the voltage from the holding winding, the spring returns the solenoid armature to the forward non-working position. Sometimes this is done automatically by control electronics.

What to do with blocking?

When the ignition switch is stuck in the Lock position, the operation of the mechanical lock depends on the angle of rotation of the wheels. If the steering wheel gets into the sector of action of the locking rod, the latter will lock the shaft in a certain position. As a result, it will be possible to deliver the car to the repair site only with the help of a tow truck - it will not be possible to tow it.

What actions can a driver take in such a situation:

• overcome a jammed mechanism with patience and hard work;
• break off the locking rod, start the engine and move to the garage;
• remove the ignition switch by pulling the rod out of its socket.

The first method involves numerous attempts to turn the key in order to “catch” the position when the mechanism opens. Be patient, exhale and try to rotate the key head while moving the steering wheel. An aerosol lubricant like WD-40 sometimes helps to disengage jammed parts of the cylinder - blow it through the tube into the keyhole.

The first option is the only one that allows the car owner to get by with “little loss” and get to a garage or service station.
Try the method before taking drastic measures .
Let your wife twist the key - maybe she will succeed the first time. On cars where electronic starter locking is not provided, you can break off the rod by sharply turning the steering wheel, applying medium force. Then the car starts by shorting the wires or turning the released key. What are the consequences of such a barbaric method:

• the broken rod will remain inside the steering column, where it will begin to rub, jam and wedge the shaft;
• from excessive force, the shaft may bend and during the repair of the lock it will have to be replaced with a new one;
• if the larva remains motionless, you will need to remove the casing, get to the contacts and find the necessary wires to start the power unit.

The complete disassembly option is suitable for all situations where the lock is jammed. The task is not an easy one - you need a tool and an understanding of how to dismantle the unit in a certain car model. The task is to get rid of the blockage and get to the contact group, whose shaft can be turned manually or with a screwdriver.

In any case, unscrew the plastic lining of the steering column and examine the fastening of the lock: you may be able to remove it. After unscrewing the nuts or screws, disconnect the housing and at the same time move the steering wheel to release the locking rod. If things go wrong, the only thing left to do is call a tow truck.

Lockout triggered

Any modern car is equipped at the factory with a special steering wheel locking mechanism. This is one of the protective measures that are designed to prevent attackers from stealing a car. If this blocking system has worked, then naturally the key in the lock will not turn, so that it will not be possible to turn on the ignition and start the engine.

In this unpleasant situation, experienced car owners recommend looking for a steering wheel position in which both the steering column and the lock will be unlocked. This can be done by inserting the key into the lock and simultaneously turning the steering wheel in different directions. This is the only way to turn the key to the engine start position. In one of the positions it unlocks.

What to do if the key does not turn in the ignition

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To start a car engine, the starter and battery need to work together. This fact is probably known to most drivers. Only now it all starts with a special signal given by the ignition switch when the key is turned in it. Naturally, we are talking about ordinary cars, and not those that start from a button (the so-called “start-stop” system). Sometimes it happens that the key refuses to turn in the lock. First of all, you need to try to solve the problem yourself, but if it doesn’t work out, then seek the help of qualified specialists; you may have to replace some parts.

When contacts freeze

Russian winters are so severe that in severe frosts the castle also freezes solid. A huge number of situations when the key does not turn in the ignition occur in winter, when temperatures drop below -20 degrees. The thing is that the lock mechanism can accumulate condensation in winter. And then, when the car sits in the cold for a while, these droplets of liquid crystallize, thereby blocking moving parts. As a result, the engine will not be able to start.

In this case, experienced car owners advise simply trying to warm up the lock assembly. This can be done using a regular hairdryer or any other device - just direct a stream of warm air into the keyhole. It is not recommended to try to defrost the lock with hot water or other liquids that freeze in the cold.

The most effective and efficient option is to heat the key with a lighter or a match. The hot element is inserted into the lock and then carefully tried to turn it. If the key does not turn in the ignition the first time (and most often this is what happens), then you need to repeat this operation two or more times.

To prevent the locks from freezing with the onset of cold weather, experts recommend injecting brake fluid into the lock with a syringe and a needle. In the spring, this “well” is thoroughly cleaned with carburetor cleaning fluid. If this is not done, the lock's lubricant will accumulate dust and eventually cause a blockage. This can also cause blocking.

Locking triggered

Many modern cars are equipped from the factory with special mechanisms with which the lock and steering wheel are locked, which is done to protect against theft and unauthorized access. If the mechanism does work, the key will not turn fully, thereby starting the process of turning on the engine.

Try to find the optimal position of the steering wheel, at which your column and the lock itself are unlocked. To achieve the desired result, insert the key into the lock and begin to rotate the steering wheel with your hands in different opposite directions. At the same time as performing these steps, attempt to start the power unit. If the desired position can be found, the key will eventually turn and the starter will be activated. If the locking mechanism is broken or stuck, you may not be able to solve the problem on your own.

The situation is quite common. And there is usually a way out of it. You will have to spend time and nerves.

I would like to remind you that there are quite a few reasons why a car won’t start. But if you clearly see that the key does not turn, look for the reasons that cause such symptoms.

Blockage in the lock

The driver goes outside, opens his car, inserts the key and feels that the key does not turn in the ignition, and it is no longer winter outside. It happens that wells become clogged. During operation, a large amount of various debris easily gets into them. Dirt actively collects (especially if the mechanism has been lubricated with thick lubricants or oils to improve operation).

Ideally, you need to disassemble and thoroughly clean the lock. But this is not always possible. Experienced drivers, in order to continue operating the car without visiting a service station, solve the problem with the universal remedy WD-40.

The tube from the can is directed into the well and filled in until clear liquid comes out from inside. WD often copes with even heavy dirt. But if suddenly it doesn’t work out, you’ll still have to disassemble the mechanism.

Castle design

Before answering the question why the key gets stuck in the ignition switch, you need to look at how the locking mechanism works . The basis of all locks is the cylinder. This is an element that determines the privacy category of the device.

The key does not turn in the ignition

In the simplest mechanism, the larva has the shape of a cylinder, which has a different number of diametrical recesses (4-10). Each of them is equipped with its own spring-loaded plate, which, when the original key is fully inserted, sinks to the same level as the cylinder. And this element has the opportunity to rotate freely inside the locking mechanism as long as the activator key is present in it. In turn, the larva is combined with other nodes:

• contact group;
• steering lock device.

The 2nd element is optional - on some cars the role of blocking the steering unit is assigned to a special servo drive, which is controlled by the car's electronics.

There are several versions of the steering unit locking device; their implementation depends on the location of the lock itself and the head unit. For driver comfort, the locking shaft does not have a rigid connection with the cylinder. If one existed, then the ignition could be turned off at the appropriate location of the steering wheel.

In reality, a more practical scheme is one in which the steering wheel will only lock if you try to turn it without activating the ignition with the key.

Ignition switch device

Wear of contact group surfaces

During the operation of the car, the place where the metal elements come into contact with each other is wiped off. Due to this, the gaps grow. The key itself and the elements of the lock mechanism may become worn out.

In the first case, if the key in the VAZ ignition switch does not turn, visually check the condition of the key. If its teeth are rounded, and its width or length has noticeably decreased, then it should be replaced. For comparison, take a second spare key. But it’s better not to use it on a daily basis. Experienced motorists recommend making a duplicate. If you continue to use the second key, then someday the situation will repeat. And then you will have to change the lock.

It must be said that you can find out about a worn key or lock much earlier than jamming occurs - if the key in the ignition switch does not turn well, then this is the first call. If the key is stuck due to abrasion, you can usually try to find a position where the key can engage the secret part of the lock. To do this, carefully turn and press the key into the lock hole many times.

The key itself is damaged

With prolonged use, the key may simply break and wear out. Contacts are erased and deformed.

A spare key, which almost everyone always has, will help you here. If you don't have a spare one, you can try restoring the old one. But this is relevant in a situation where it has been bent and deformed. It is impossible to build up erased contacts with your own hands.

It is usually recommended to insert worn keys and try to turn them in different positions and with different forces. There is a chance that you will be able to hit the secret key and the engine will start. But the key needs to be replaced soon.

Deformations

Often the main cause of problems with the operation of the lock is the key. It is subject to deformation. Damage occurs in various cases (for example, when a car owner opens beer bottles with this key).

If the element is bent, you can straighten it with a wooden or rubber hammer. After alignment, it is worth trying to insert it into the well again.

Deformations of the lock's secrets occur even more often. This leads to the ignition switch breaking. In this case, only dismantling the lock and removing crumpled springs and slats will help. Often in modern cars, only complete removal of all the lock's secrets helps. After this operation, the car starts even with an ordinary screwdriver. Naturally, if the ignition switch is torn out and the key does not turn, the Mercedes can be easily started even with a Swiss Army knife. This is the only option to get to the service and replace the element.

Not all locks can be removed without dismantling the entire assembly. Often you even have to remove the ignition switch from the steering column. At this stage, certain problems may arise with unscrewing the bolts - there are broken heads. First of all, the caps are impacted with a hammer and chisel, and then they are worked with pliers.

The castle is frozen

Freezing of the lock is important for cold times of the day. When moisture accumulates inside and the temperature drops, it turns into ice, thereby preventing you from calmly inserting and turning the key in the lock.

The procedure in such a situation is extremely simple. You can use several defrosting methods:

• Using warm air. The easiest way is to take and connect a hair dryer, carefully directing a stream of heated air into the cylinder;
• Warm up the key with a lighter or simple matches. The heated element is inserted into the lock for literally a minute. If it doesn’t help the first time, warm it up again and repeat the operation;
• Own breathing. When there is nothing else at hand, you can simply breathe on the castle. Warm air will gradually melt the ice.

There are auto experts who advise owners of cars with an ignition switch that often freezes in winter to add oil or regular brake fluid.

This is good advice, but I would like to make an amendment.

After pouring oil or other lubricant into the lock in winter, with the onset of the warm season, be sure to blow out the lock or clean it mechanically. Otherwise, dirt will accumulate in the lock.

Other reasons

In addition to the malfunctions presented, there are a number of factors that can cause such a malfunction.

Among them:

• fuse break;
• starter relay failure;
• bad mass.

It is worth noting that the starter relay and the traction or retractor relay are two different devices. The starter relay is an auxiliary device that allows you to convert the current permissible for the ignition switch contacts into a high-power current necessary to start the starter.

Clogging and freezing of the larva

Due to dirt accumulated inside the lock, the key jams and jams in various positions. If the jam occurs in the intermediate position indicated by the letters ON and ACC, it cannot be removed. What to do:

• purchase WD-40 lubricant in an aerosol can from your local auto parts store and blow it into the mechanism through the keyhole slots;
• make attempts to turn the key by rotating it in different directions and swinging it in the lock;
• periodically add lubricants to dissolve the dirt inside the larva;
• Gently tap the key head and lock with a light hammer or similar object.

Recommendation. During the manipulations, keep the car on the hand brake. By focusing on the stuck mechanism, you may not notice the car rolling away.

Usually the blockage can be cleared using these methods and the key is turned at least once. This is enough to get to the nearest car service center or garage. If attempts are unsuccessful, it is necessary to dismantle the lock or get to the contact group in another way. Without disconnecting the wires, turn the shaft with a screwdriver and start the motor. Do not touch the key - you may accidentally engage the mechanical lock.

A frozen mechanism is “treated” by warming it up . Pouring hot water is not allowed: just heat the key with a lighter, insert it into the well and try to turn it. The second option is to fill the mechanism with warm WD-40 lubricant from a heated can.

What can you do yourself?

Checking the above errors is quite simple - the fuel level will be shown by the indicator on the panel, but you can determine the battery charge using a multimeter. So, the normal voltage when the engine is not running (after all, you cannot start it) is in the range of 12.5 - 13.0 V. And if the device readings show less than 11.8-12.0, your battery is definitely discharged and you need to find an opportunity start the engine from another car.

If the car does not start, check the presence of gasoline and the condition of the battery and fuses.

To check fuses, you can use a visual inspection, since most often they have a transparent body. A blown fuse will have a broken wire with melted edges. Fuses with opaque housings can be checked for voltage using a multimeter. In some cases, problems with ignition arise due to mechanical factors, and therefore, when answering the question of why the ignition key does not turn in the lock, you should pay attention to the following points:

Ignition switch lubricant WD40

Inspect the lock for contamination. For cleaning, you can use the universal WD40 product, which is carefully injected into the lock hole.

Check the key for deformation; it may have accidentally bent and needs to be straightened. In sub-zero temperatures, be sure to check if the lock is frozen. You can warm it up with a regular hairdryer.

In cars equipped with automatic transmission, it is often impossible to turn the key if the gear selector is not in neutral or on the brake.

If there are no obvious reasons, the steering rack may be locked. To remove it, try turning the key while smoothly turning the steering wheel (do not use excessive force so as not to break or bend it and the locking device).

What to do if the key does not turn in the ignition, how to start the car

Hi all! In order for the engine to start normally, it is necessary to ensure coordinated operation of the battery and starter, which literally everyone knows about. But the primary action is performed using the key and ignition switch. Sometimes it happens in a driver’s life that the key in the ignition switch does not turn and your engine cannot be started.

A natural question arises: why is this happening and what needs to be done in this situation. First of all, I would advise checking the battery and making sure that it is not the cause.

Depending on the reasons, you can cope with some of them yourself. There are also situations when you will need to seek help from specialists. Let's find out why the key may not turn properly and what to do about it.

Replacing the ignition switch

To solve all these problems, the surest solution is to replace the ignition switch. Many motorists are in no hurry to immediately contact a car service center, but try to repair their beloved child with their own hands. Is it possible to replace the lock yourself without having special abilities and skills? Yes, this is quite possible, and any real man can do it.

There is a way out of any situation!

Wiring ringing

So, depending on the cause of the malfunction, replacement may be:

• Complete lock replacement
• Replacing the lock cylinder
• Replacing the contact group.

You can check the serviceability of the contact group without removing the ignition switch. To do this, you will need a multimeter, ohmmeter or any other device for testing wires. The contact resistance must be zero, otherwise they are faulty. And then it is necessary to replace the contact group of the ignition switch.

Checking the serviceability of the contact group

Dismantling the lock

To partially or completely replace the ignition switch, it must be removed. To do this, we may need a minimal set of tools.

A set of necessary tools

The ignition switch on all classic VAZ car models is located below, on the left of the steering column. So, our actions:

Disconnect the battery to de-energize the ignition switch.

Battery disconnection

Unscrew the screws securing the plastic casing and remove it. Unscrew the pair of screws that secure the ignition switch to the bracket.

Unscrew the screws

Disable the anti-theft device. To do this, insert the key and turn it to position zero. Using an awl, press the latch and remove the lock.

Removing a lock using an awl

In the “classic” models (2101-2107), the wires are connected to the ignition switch not using a solid chip, but each separately. Therefore, before removing the lock, when disconnecting its contact group, it is advisable to use markings to mark the correspondence of each wire to the number of the contact to which it is connected. Otherwise, you may get them mixed up when you put the lock in place.

Let's disassemble the castle itself

Once you have the lock in your hands, you can replace its faulty part or replace it with another working ignition switch. If you replace the contact part, you will need to find the retaining ring - it is located at the bottom of the lock - and remove it (you can do this with an awl or a thin screwdriver). Then, after installing the working part, return it to its place. Before installing the aftermarket ignition switch, turn the key inserted into it to position “I” so that the latch that blocks the steering shaft is pushed into the lock body.

Ignition switch structure

It is done. Now, using the previously marked markers, we attach the new contact part of the lock in the same way as the previous one was attached.

We tighten the screws securing the lock, fixing it, put the decorative casing in place - and the dismantling is complete! You can now turn on the engine to ensure that all contacts are active and the job is successful.

Why the key can get stuck in the ignition and how to avoid it

There are many reasons for ignition switch failure. The most common of them: tried to start the car with a non-original key or any tool at all; water entered the larva at a temperature below zero; grease has frozen in the lock; the key profile is damaged (bends, bulges, etc.); the larva has worn out and broken over time; The lock body was damaged due to an accident. This malfunction can be prevented if you pay attention to seemingly small things in time.

• the key jams a little when it is inserted into the ignition;
• the key sticks a little when the driver wants to turn it;
• the car does not operate adequately after turning on the ignition and starting the engine;
• You can hear a crackling, noise, or grinding noise that is unusual for normal operation when turning the key.

If you notice these problems, then do not wait for the situation to worsen, but immediately begin solving the problem so that in the future the key does not get stuck in the lock. To repair the lock, you will need to remove the cylinder. After all, most problems with a key that does not turn come down to a malfunction of the cylinder. The design of the cylinder differs depending on the brand of machine. Nevertheless, the principle of removing the larva and its subsequent replacement are similar. To remove the cylinder, you will need to turn the key to the first position, and then press a little on the special latch.

As a result, the larva will be removed. But if the key cannot turn in this way, then this is very bad, since it will be very difficult to get the larva. You may have to use mechanical force. If in such a situation you still manage to turn the key and start the car, then under no circumstances pull it out after the engine stops running. Leave the key in the first position until repair work is carried out.

Repair of ignition switch VAZ 2110

You can identify a malfunction of the “tens” ignition switch using a tester. To do this, you must first dismantle the lock. Briefly, the algorithm of actions will be as follows:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Unscrew the cover around the steering column.
3. Disconnect the ignition switch connector.
4. Insert the key into the lock and move it sequentially to positions I and II. In this case, using an ohmmeter it is necessary to measure the resistance between the contacts (see diagram and table).
5. If the ignition switch and contact group are working properly, the resistance should be 0.

Below we provide you with a table that provides information about which contacts close and open in different key positions, as well as what machine mechanisms they are responsible for.

Key position	Which contacts are under voltage?	Closable circuits
Position "0" (off)	Contact 30	None
Position I (ignition on)	Contacts 30-15	Ignition system circuits, generator excitation, power supply to headlights, turn signals, control panel, windshield wipers and windshield washers, electric heater fan motor is powered, rear window heating and cigarette lighter are turned on.
Position II (starter running)	Contacts 30-15 and 30-50	All the above circuits, as well as the starter, are running.

Ignition circuit for VAZ 2110

To dismantle the ignition switch of the VAZ 2110, you need to continue the steps started earlier (you have already disconnected the battery, and also removed the plastic covers from the steering column). Next you need to proceed according to the following algorithm:

1. Disconnect the steering column switches (to do this, just disconnect the latches).
2. Since the bolts securing the ignition switch have cut heads (for safety reasons), they are unscrewed using a hammer, chisel and pliers. To do this, place the chisel on the head and hit the chisel with a hammer so that the bolt follows the thread. When the tightening is loosened, you can use pliers.
3. Next, remove the fastening bracket from the column and remove the ignition switch directly.

Replacing the lamp

Lock repairs may vary. Let's look at the main ones - replacing the backlight bulb, replacing or repairing the ignition switch contact group, replacing the microswitch. Let's analyze these processes separately. So, to change a light bulb , you need to:

1. Disconnect the connector connecting the lamp to the power supply.
2. Remove the lamp socket using small pliers.
3. Replace the lamp and reassemble everything in reverse order.

Replacing the contact group

Replacement of the contact group is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Using a screwdriver, move the locking latches to the side.
2. Dismantle the old contact group.
3. Replace it with a new one, install the latches in place.

To replace the microswitch, perform the following steps:

1. Unscrew the three screws that hold the structure together.
2. Remove the mounting rod.
3. Release the latch.
4. Dismantle the switch.
5. Installing a new switch is performed in the reverse order.

Replacing the microswitch

Also a popular repair operation is replacing the ignition lock cylinder . To do this, you will need the following tools - a chisel, a hammer, pliers, a drill with a thin drill, a screwdriver with a Phillips head, a thin watch screwdriver with a thin tip, and of course, a new cylinder. Replacement steps must be performed in the following sequence:

1. As described above, you need to disconnect the battery and remove the outer casing from the steering column. However, the lock itself does not need to be removed.
2. Pull out the fastening pin that holds the cylinder in the lock. To do this you need to use a thin clock screwdriver and a hammer. If the pin cannot be pulled out, you can drill it out with a thin drill.
3. Next you need to replace the larva with a new one.
4. Collection occurs in reverse order.

If you have completely removed the ignition switch, then before reinstalling it, do not forget to insert the key and turn it to position I (ignition). At this moment, the steering shaft latch, which locks the steering mechanism, will hide in the lock body.

To replace the ignition switch on the “ten”, it will be useful for you to know its catalog number - 2110370400530, and the catalog number of the cylinder - VAZ00015448.

Why the key does not turn in the ignition: main reasons

The most common problems that lead to the key not turning in the lock include:

• steering column lock is activated;
• freezing of the node;
• lock contamination;
• wear of parts;
• deformation of the key and lock lamellas.

Locking triggered

Most cars come from the factory equipped with a steering column locking mechanism as a preventive measure against theft. And when the lock is triggered, problems may arise with starting the engine using the key. Experienced drivers recommend not to panic and to carefully make efforts to try to turn the key, while simultaneously turning the steering wheel left and right until the “golden mean” is found. At a certain angle of rotation of the steering wheel, the key should turn.

If the lock is frozen

The lion's share of incidents with ignition switches jamming occurs in the winter, when the air temperature drops significantly below zero. The fact is that condensation can accumulate inside the ignition switch. And then, when the car is left in the cold for several hours, droplets of moisture crystallize, thereby immobilizing the moving parts of the lock. As a result, the lock suddenly fails.

Video on repairing a jammed ignition switch

In such cases, you simply need to warm up the unit by sending a stream of warm air into the well, for example from a hair dryer, or in another accessible way. The main thing is not to pour hot water or other liquids that freeze in the cold into the lock. The simplest and most correct course of action is to heat the key with the open flame of a lighter or match. You need to insert the heated key into the lock and try to turn it in the hole. If you don't succeed the first time (and this is usually the case), repeat the procedure several times until the desired result is achieved.

To prevent this situation from arising in the future, it is recommended that when cold weather sets in, you syringe (using a regular medical syringe with a needle) the well with brake fluid. But in the spring you will have to clean such a lock with a stream of carburetor cleaner, otherwise the lubricant will collect dust on itself, causing a blockage.

Castle contamination

It happens that even in the warm season, the lock suddenly seizes treacherously. The reason for this situation may be a simple blockage of the well with dust and dirt. Motor oil, grease and other lubricants used to improve the operation of moving parts of the ignition switch become a kind of magnet for foreign particles.

In warm weather, the lock may jam due to the well being clogged with dirt.

To clear the clog, you don’t have to disassemble everything - just use a WD aerosol or carburetor cleaner with an applicator. A jet directed into the well should have an effect. It is necessary to spray until the liquid escaping from the lock becomes transparent. If there is no progress, it is better to disassemble the lock and inspect its “insides”.

Wear of contact surfaces

Over time, the metal-to-metal contact area inevitably wears away, causing the gaps between parts to increase. This can be either abrasion of the key itself or wear of the lock elements. In the first case, make sure that the key has really noticeably worn down (the teeth have become rounded or the width or length of the key has become smaller). For this purpose, check the spare key. If you identify obvious wear and tear, order a duplicate of the spare key. If you use a spare key instead of the main one, next time you won’t have anything to make a copy of - you’ll need to change the lock. If the parts of the ignition switch itself wear out, you will have to similarly fork out money to replace it.

It should be noted that you can usually find out about the wear of the key or lock lamellas in advance - by periodic jamming of the unit.

If once again the key is jammed due to abrasion, simply try to find the position in which the teeth of the key will catch the secret, turning it repeatedly and carefully, pressing the key in the available range.

Deformation of the lock parts and the key itself

Often the cause of the problem is a deformed key. Deformation can occur, for example, after opening beer bottles with a key. Simply straighten the key with a wooden hammer and try to reinsert it into the lock hole. But more often it is deformation and damage to the lamellas (secrets) of the lock that lead to breakdown of the ignition switch. In this case, you will have to disassemble the lock, removing the cylinder, and remove the crumpled slats and springs. Sometimes you have to completely remove and throw away all the secrets of the castle. After this, the car can be started with a regular screwdriver. Of course, this is only an opportunity to get to a service center in order to replace the lock with a new one, since driving in this way is dangerous.

A deformed key may cause the ignition switch to jam.

The design of the lock does not always allow the assembly to be disassembled without dismantling it. Sometimes the ignition switch has to be removed from the steering column for disassembly. Problems at this stage usually arise with unscrewing bolts with broken, or rather already torn, heads. Initially, it is convenient to work on the caps with a chisel and hammer. Then the bolts lend themselves to pliers.

If this happened to a foreign car

When the steering wheel is locked on a foreign car with an automatic transmission, make sure that the gearbox lever is in the “parking” position, otherwise you will not be able to unlock the steering wheel. Simultaneous turning of the steering wheel and the key in the ignition switch is also used. If the larva jams, you can try to replace it.

The picture shows the process of removing the Golf 4 switch.

Performing the operation is somewhat more difficult than on a classic car factory from Togliatti. If the steering wheel on a foreign car is jammed, you will have to remove the steering wheel. This must be done with caution, especially on models with an airbag. Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the battery and do everything possible to prevent spontaneous connection. This will protect against possible deployment of the airbag.

After successfully removing the airbag, the car's wheels should be set to the straight-line position, this will allow the steering wheel to be installed correctly in the future. To perform removal correctly, it is best to refer to the vehicle’s operating instructions; if it is not available, the Internet will help. In some cases, you will have to use a puller to remove the steering wheel.

You will have to remove the block with the steering column switches, otherwise you will not be able to get to the lock. Some foreign car models hold locks on the steering column splines; in this case, removing the lock without a special puller is problematic. After dismantling it, they begin to replace the damaged larvae. Replacing them can also be easy, and sometimes requires the use of a certain tool and effort.

This can be done in different ways, using a thin screwdriver or an awl to press the latch that holds the cylinder in the body. For other models, intervention may be required to mechanically unlock the mechanism. Use a drill and a set of drills. In any case, consult the vehicle's operating instructions for advice. Such work begins to be carried out when there is a new cylinder for the ignition switch.

The picture shows the removal of the locking cylinders of a Volkswagen car. The picture shows the removal of the locking of the cylinders of a Volkswagen car

Repair vs replacement

Many even experienced motorists are sure that when the key in the ignition switch does not want to turn normally, they should simply replace it. In theory, this can be done on any vehicle. But the question is whether it is worth going this way. In big cities there are a large number of car wreckers. This way you can easily find the ignition switch that suits your car. Although it is worth considering whether the investment is worth it. There are no guarantees that a used item will not be in a similar faulty condition or that its lifespan will be sufficient for at least several years of operation. Since the ignition switch is replaced along with the key, then it will probably not be suitable for your car to open the same glove compartment or luggage compartment. On modern cars, the key consists of more than just a metal blade. The case contains a special electronic chip that is tied to the ignition switch. If this chip is missing or it is not programmed, then you still will not be able to start the engine. Sometimes you can disassemble the old key, remove the chip from it and insert it into the new case. Such a trick is not successful in all situations.

The best way out of this situation would be to repair the larva itself. This will allow you to continue using your old keys. And if you have to make a new turnkey case, it will still be created according to factory parameters. But each motorist decides for himself what is easier and more profitable for him to do. The problem when the key does not want to turn in the ignition switch is quite common. And there are also many reasons for this behavior. You need to find the source of the problem and eliminate it in the most optimal and effective way. Sometimes it is better to turn to qualified craftsmen for this, rather than risk trying to do something yourself.

What if the key is chipped?

Almost all modern cars have electronic control units in their electrical equipment systems that control the units and components of the machine, including locking. A failure of the control system results in the steering wheel being locked, making it impossible to move the car or start the engine. Again the rather boring question arises about what to do in such a situation.

When traditional rocking and cranking are not successful, try disconnecting the battery for a while. It will take from a few minutes to half an hour. Usually this helps and the car can be restored to working order. If the steering wheel is locked, this happens through mechanical devices, and smart electronics will not allow the power unit to start.

In most cases, problems can be prevented, or even prevented from occurring. No special techniques or methods are required; you just need to be careful with your car keys and avoid damage. Periodically clean the device from penetrating dust and dirt using carburetor cleaning fluid. Do not allow moisture to get inside the device; freezing may occur in winter. If, nevertheless, a problem “looms”, do not despair, but thoughtfully approach its solution.

Price issue

If it is still impossible to repair a broken lock, you need to purchase and install a new one.

If you are planning to do this yourself, then first you need to purchase a lock that matches the make of the car from a spare parts store. Depending on this, the cost of the device will vary. As a rule, parts from imported manufacturers have a higher cost (from 2 thousand rubles) than from domestic ones (up to 1 thousand). As for the same VAZ, the price of the product can range from 300 to 700 rubles.

What should you not forget when working?

When carrying out repairs, in order to change the contact part, a retaining ring is pryed into the end of the housing with an awl (holds the core of the ignition switch inside a convenient housing), after which the contact part can be removed. The new contact group is installed in such a way that the location of plugs 15 and 30 is where the locking rod is located. In this case, with their wide protrusion, the contacts must fit into an equally wide groove in the housing. All parts are installed on the car in the reverse order corresponding to their removal.

It is better to carry out repair work in a dry room, avoid direct contact with moisture on the contacts and terminals, so as not to disassemble this system again in the near future for banal cleaning of oxides.

According to the electrical diagram, a new or repaired ignition switch is installed, as well as all wires in accordance with the preliminary marking of the terminals. In order to simplify the connection of wires, their markings are transferred to the new system. Provided all installation and connection rules are followed, the new lock will be able to operate for a long time. In order to guarantee uninterrupted operation and avoid early breakdowns, it is necessary to choose a modern and high-quality model.

Briefly about the operation of the lock

This switching unit is designed to turn on electrical equipment, ignition and engine starter using a key. For the convenience of the driver and the anti-theft (locking) function, the element is integrated into the design of the steering column on the right side.

In old Soviet cars, the keyhole was located to the left of the steering wheel.

The castle consists of the following elements:

1. Cylindrical steel body.
2. A secret key mechanism is installed inside the case - the larva.
3. Contact group connecting to the larva with a leash.
4. A locking rod connected to the lock mechanism protrudes from a side slot in the housing.

Simultaneously with turning the key, the cylinder rotates the shaft of the contact group. Depending on the selected position (usually there are 4), voltage is supplied to different consumers - electrical equipment, ignition system and starter. The locking rod locks the steering wheel only in the first position (Lock). In the same position, the key is removed from the well.

When will a master be needed?

If the ignition key does not turn and is stuck, you will most likely have to remove the lock. This can occur as a result of wear on the lamellas of the locking device, which is often indicated by regular jamming of the key. To remove the key, you can use a syringe to inject WD40 inside and carefully try to turn it to its original position. In the future, to solve the main problem, many motorists remove the damaged slats. They do this to save money, since installing a new lock is quite expensive. It is not always easy to disassemble a lock on your own, and considering that there are technologies for restoring slats, in the absence of experience, it is better to invite a specialist.

Ignition switch repair

Mechanical damage also includes a faulty spring, as a result of which the ignition key does not return to its original position. This may damage the starter. To eliminate such a malfunction, you will need to replace the lock contact group with a new one, and you also cannot do without a car mechanic.

And in conclusion, one piece of advice. When diagnosing the cause of a faulty ignition switch, use your judgment, even if you are in a hurry. This is the basis of success, because applying force without involving the mind will only do harm.

Repair or install a new one

Many people believe that a change is the best option, but this is not entirely true. Buying a disassembled lock is not an option for everyone, since a used device is in a similar technical condition and is unlikely to work for a long time.

Repair or new installation?

In addition, the new keys will not fit the trunk/glove compartment. It will need to be registered in the car (does not apply to our cars). Undoubtedly, you can carefully disassemble the element from the old lock and remove the chip from it, and then put it on the purchased copy.

But the best option is to restore the larvae. This way you can keep the old copy of the keys in use. If it is necessary to cut a new body onto an element, it will be made according to the original characteristics.

The price of solving the problem

If it is impossible to repair a broken mechanism , you must buy and install a new one. By contacting the official service, you will receive high-quality installation of the original locking mechanism very quickly. Replacing the lock mechanism in the service costs approximately a thousand rubles.

If you want to do this yourself, you first need to buy a lock that matches the model of your car. This affects its cost. Typically, imported components cost from two thousand rubles, Russian ones up to one thousand (for example, for VAZ cars the cost of the mechanism is within 700 rubles).

To prevent breakdowns of the locking device in the future and extend its service life, it is important to regularly lubricate the moving parts. To do this, inject a little oil into the hole with a syringe, and there will be no difficulties with turning the key in the ignition for a long time.

The ignition does not turn on.
We have analyzed the main reasons for the key “wedges” in the ignition. And they explained how to resolve such difficulties independently.

Other possible problems

It also happens that the problem with starting the engine is associated not only with the ignition key, but also with the same battery. I hasten to remind you of the material where we considered the issue of starting an internal combustion engine when the battery is dead. I advise you to read it.

Some reasons turn out to be extremely banal, but this does not make them any less common. A striking example is the inability to turn the key on a car with an automatic transmission. This is a feature of the design of the car and the interaction of the ignition system with the automatic transmission. It simply does not allow you to turn the key until the box selector is moved to the desired position. The automatic transmission allows you to start the engine if the handle is moved to the parking or neutral position.

Sometimes the key simply cannot get into the grooves. This is due to wear of the key or the lock cylinder itself. Try tapping it gently. But under no circumstances use metal objects or hammers.

I can’t say that the problem with turning the key is extremely serious and dangerous. But hardly anyone wants to face her. Especially if you need to go somewhere urgently.

Have you ever encountered similar situations? What was the reason and how did you solve the problem? Write your answers in the comments.

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Replacement instructions

So, how to remove the ignition switch on a VAZ 2107 and replace it with a new one?

To do everything right, follow these steps:

1. First of all, don’t forget to remove the terminals from the battery!
2. De-energize the car's electrical circuit; to do this, disconnect the battery, so you can prevent a possible short circuit in the wiring during operation.
3. Place the key in the 3Z and turn it 90 degrees. In this position, the system shaft will automatically be locked and will not interfere with the removal of the mechanism.
4. To remove the plastic trim from the steering column, you need to unscrew the five fixing screws connecting the upper and lower parts. Both parts of the cover must be removed; do this carefully so as not to damage the casing.
5. Then you need to unscrew two more bolts - with their help the ZZ itself is fixed. These screws are located on different sides of the switch.
6. After these steps, you need to disconnect the cables from the contact group of the node. Use an awl to remove the fastener by reaching into the flat hole with the tool and pressing the latch. At this point, using a flat-tip screwdriver, pry up the assembly and remove it from the bracket. When all the screws are removed and the fasteners are bent, the mechanism can be dismantled without any problems. In the event that you only need to replace the group itself, using the same flat-tip screwdriver you will need to move the ring away - and the element can be removed without any problems. When installing a new contact group, you need to install a pass on the secret part, this way you can make a small engagement. Then the entire structure must be clamped with a spring ring.
7. To install a new switch, first insert the key into it and turn it to position 0. Then tighten the fastener and simultaneously install the switch into the bracket.
8. After this, you need to connect the wires of the replaced ZZ in accordance with the diagram below. The diagram is very important, because if the connection of the contacts is broken, it can lead to a short circuit in the wiring in the network. Accordingly, electrical appliances and devices may eventually fail.
9. Finally, you need to install both parts of the plastic cover and secure them with screws.

Standard ignition switch - article number, price, how it works, device

The module on Priora does not work directly with the components that initiate the engine start. For it to work properly, you need to wait a few seconds before starting until the fuel pump creates the required pressure. On the Priora, only wires are connected to it - the paths along which messages pass from the ignition switch to the electronic control unit.

The ECU of the Priora car just receives data about the position of the key and can crank the starter if this operation is “not blocked”. Due to a breakdown, it can only turn on the ignition, leaving the battery to work.

After the ECU key has turned, it gives commands to several parts at once. When you turn on the second position, let the fuel pump run for 5 seconds so that it pumps fuel from the tank closer to the engine.

When the starting process itself begins, the starter rotates - the force it creates goes to the crankshaft;

the ignition system element converts the low voltage current coming from the battery into a high one so that the spark plugs are “charged” and give a spark at the right moment;

The injector creates the first batch of air-fuel mixture to put it into the chamber, where everything is ready for it - the pistons “move”, the spark plugs spark.

In the module itself, everything is simple - there is a cylinder with a return spring inside, between the coils there is a locking ball that does not allow it to curl up more than necessary, and a locking rod holds the structure in place. Finally, as a complication of the entire system, there is an “immobilizer” - an anti-theft system that you can install yourself. It just takes a long time to set it up.

A regular kit with a master key and several door cylinders (with an immobilizer) costs from 1,800 - 2,000 rubles, catalog number - 2170-3704005. A set without a master key (without an immobilizer) can be purchased for 1,200 – 1,400 rubles, article number -2170-3704006.

Installing the "Start" button

Some car enthusiasts install a separate button in the car in a convenient place to start the engine. It is connected to the starter circuit by breaking the red wire going to terminal 50 on the ignition switch. The car is started as follows:

1. The key is inserted into the ignition switch.
2. The key is turned to position "I".
3. Pressing the button turns on the starter.
4. After the engine starts, the button is released.

In this case, you can turn off the engine only by turning the key in the opposite direction.

In order for the button to turn off the engine, it must be connected according to a slightly modified circuit

In order to use a button to stop the motor, that is, to turn it into a “Start-Stop” button, you need to use two additional relays:

• headlight relay RS 711;
• starter relay 113.3747–10 or 90.3747–10.

When you press the button, current from the battery goes to the headlight relay, closing its contacts, and then to the starter. When the engine starts, the button is released, opening the contacts of the starter relay and breaking its circuit. However, the positive wire remains connected through the headlight relay for some time. When you press the button again, the headlight relay contacts open, breaking the ignition circuit, and the engine stops. To delay the activation of the starter, an additional transistor is included in the circuit.

Thus, even a novice car enthusiast can replace the ignition switch of a VAZ 2107. To do this, you need a minimum set of tools and following the recommendations of specialists. Particular attention should be paid to the correct connection of the wires to the lock contacts.

What other devices are there?

You are presented with a switch for the next stage of modernization; it was installed on cars with front-wheel drive made in Russia

The ignition switch of this design began to be installed on the left side, as on foreign-made cars. It has a steering wheel locking system. The electrical system received an additional relay. If the engine suddenly stops arbitrarily, you need to turn off the ignition, then turn it on again, and start the engine.

The lock can break at the most inopportune moment. The manufacturing quality of individual devices is low, which can cause the larvae in it to break. In such cases, they replace the device with a new one, and someone changes the core. The ignition switch of these models is covered with a plastic casing; it must be removed before replacement or repair.

To replace the cylinders, you need to get to the switch itself; it is convenient to perform this operation with the device completely removed. Tool you will need:

1. Thin screwdrivers with slotted and Phillips blades;
2. A sharpened small chisel;
3. Drill with a diameter of 2 mm;
4. Hammer and pliers.

Important! Before starting work, disconnect the battery ground.

The steering column lock can be attached in two ways, with two or four shear-head screws. To dismantle the ignition switch, the screws are pulled out of place with a chisel and then turned out with pliers, as shown in the photo.

Attaching the ignition switch to the steering column.

If you cannot remove it this way, the screws should be carefully drilled out. A wiring harness extends from the ignition switch, it ends with a connector, it is disconnected. Now you have access to the locking pin of the cylinder, you need to get it out. A thin screwdriver is used, they lightly tap it and try to pull it out. If it is impossible to remove the larva with its help, you need to drill it out with a thin drill. The new part is installed in the reverse order of removal.

Drastic measures to disassemble the switch and replace the internals are resorted to in extreme cases, when all methods of “treatment” have been exhausted. You should try to clear the key channel of foreign particles. A hand jigsaw file is ideal for this procedure. With its help, solid particles trapped in the ignition switch channel are easily removed. It is helpful to flush the cavity with carburetor cleaning fluid.

Remember! Lubricant that gets inside the lock actively collects dust and dirt, which subsequently impedes the operation of the device.

In some cases, problems can be caused by deformation of the key, or more precisely, its bending. There are enough reasons for this: falling, careless handling, opening beer bottles and other, sometimes completely unexpected factors. Place the key blade on a flat, flat surface and check their condition. If a bend is detected, it is eliminated. To do this, it is advisable to use objects made of soft alloys so as not to further deform the key.

Lada 2107 DUPLICATE ❼ › Logbook › Removing the ignition switch without a key on a VAZ 2101-07

I’ve been meaning to describe this procedure for a long time in order to help people who mess with the steering column while trying to remove the lock.
Just on the Lada from the moment of purchase, the lock jammed when trying to turn the key to the “starter” position. I even had to stick a button on it just in case, so that I could start it with the starter if the lock jammed. Let's get started. I will not describe how to remove the trim from the steering column, disconnect the battery and disconnect the wires from the lock. Also, do not forget to unscrew the two fastening screws of the lock (left and bottom). Next on business. We have a patient without a key. The steering wheel is locked. We see a protrusion on the lock that covers the lock.

We break this protrusion, for example, by hitting a hammer through a chisel. This procedure is probably the most difficult in removing the lock. Accordingly, we get access to the blocking.

We hook the lock with a screwdriver and move it to the side (if necessary, turn the steering wheel a little so that the lock disengages from the steering shaft). On the other hand, press the second screwdriver into the slot.

We push out the lock (it may be difficult to move, you will have to strain) as with normal removal with a key.

That's all, the patient was removed, the steering column was not damaged (for me it was “almost” - I missed it a couple of times with a hammer).

Well, then we install a new lock, connect it, assemble it and use it! Thank you for your attention!

Removing the device from the car

In order to know how to remove the ignition switch on a VAZ-2107 car, you need to have an understanding of not only its functionality, but also its structure. This element in Zhiguli consists of two parts - a switching mechanism and a contact board. The importance of both components is also significant because if one fails, the entire device will not work.

You may need to remove the lock for various reasons:

• the device does not work, although the key is not broken;
• jammed key when the steering wheel is locked;
• the broken key remained a secret;
• the owner lost his car keys, etc.

Step-by-step dismantling of the lock:

1. Remove the decorative cover of the steering shaft.
2. De-energize the vehicle by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery.
3. Disconnect the wire bundle from the lock.
4. Insert the key and turn it to the zero position - “Off”. During this, you need to turn the steering wheel slightly left and right to move the locked steering shaft to the required position and disable the anti-theft mechanism.
5. Loosen the lock fastening by removing the screws securing the steering shaft bracket.
6. Use an awl, a small screwdriver or strong wire to press out the fastener.
7. Pull the lock out of its seat.

After this, you can replace the non-working device with a purchased new one, repair the group of contacts, the cylinder. But first, it would be better to check the supposedly broken element for functionality, maybe it’s not the problem.

To check the ignition switch you will need an ohmmeter, also called a multimeter.

In turn, connect the terminals of the device to the lock terminals that correspond to the specific position of the key in it. Resistance tending to zero indicates that the contact group is in good working order. If the resistance is greater than zero, the contacts are burnt or oxidized.

In order to replace a group of lock contacts, it is enough to: remove the locking ring from its base, remove the group itself from the device body and replace it with a new one.