Fuse box design for Lada Kalina 2nd generation


Fuse and relay box in the interior of Lada Kalina 2

The unit is located on the left side of the instrument panel under the steering wheel. To access the unit, pull the lower left corner of the cover to release the left locking point, then the middle and two right locking points. Then release the upper locking points and remove the cover.

Fuse diagram Lada Kalina 2

The table shows a set of fuses for the maximum configuration of the “luxury” version (depending on the set of options, individual fuses from this set may not be used in the “Normal” configuration).

Number and current*“Standard” packageEquipment “Norma” and “Lux”
F1 (15A)Ignition Coils, Injectors, Engine Control System Controller
F2 (10/30A)Daytime Running LightsPower supply for the body electronics central unit, Driver's door module.
F3 (10/15A)AlarmAutomatic transmission controller power supply, Automatic transmission control drive.
F4 (15A)Airbag system controller
F5 (7.5A)Terminal 15 devices
F6 (7.5A)Reversing lightReverse Light, Automatic Transmission Controller
F7 (7.5A)Canister purge valve, mass air flow sensor/pressure sensor, DCCanister purge valve, mass air flow sensor/pressure sensor, phase sensor, DC.
F8 (7.5A/-)Direction indicatorsReserve
F9 (5A)Side lights on the starboard side.
F10 (5A)Parking lights on the left side, Illumination of instruments and keys, License plate lights, Luggage and glove box lighting.
F11 (5A)Rear PTFs.
F12 (10A)Low beam and power supply for starboard electric corrector.
F13 (10A)Low beam and power supply for the left side electric corrector.
F14Reserve
F15 (10A)Rear window washer, Rear window wiper
F16 (-/5A)ReserveDriver door module
F17ReserveReserve
F18ReserveReserve
F19 (20A/-)Door lockReserve
F20Reserve
F21 (10A)High beam, right headlight
F22 (10A)High beam, left headlight
F23 (-/10A)ReserveRight fog lamp
F24 (-/10A)ReserveLeft fog lamp
F25 (15A)Heated front seats
F26 (5A)Anti-lock brake control unit
F27 (15A)Cigarette lighter
F28 (15A)Fuel pump
F29 (20A)Windshield washerWindshield washer, Central body electronics unit
F30Reserve
F31 (-/7.2A)ReserveAir conditioning compressor clutch, Automatic climate control system controller
F32 (7.5A)Brake lights, Interior lighting
F33 (25A)Anti-lock brake control unit
F34 (5A)Instrument cluster, Diagnostic connector
F35 (-/10A)ReserveCentral body electronics unit
F36 (10A)Sound signal
F37 (10A)Radio/Multimedia system
F38Reserve
F39Reserve
F40Reserve
F41Reserve
F42 (30A/-)Electric windowsReserve
F43 (-/50A)ReserveAMT controller
F44 (30A)Electric heater fanElectric heater fan, Automatic climate control system controller
F45 (25A)Heated rear window
F46Reserve

* — the first value for the “standard” configuration, the second for “norm” and “luxury”.

Fuses located in the mounting block of the vehicle interior with the ERA-GLONASS function (in a variant):

Current strengthProtected Circuits
F115AMinimum speed radiator fan relay K18 (version with air conditioning or climate control)
Maximum speed radiator fan relay K4
Air conditioning compressor clutch relay K10 (version with air conditioning or climate control)
Engine Control System Controller
Cylinder injectors
Ignition coils (for 16-valve internal combustion engines)
F27.5AIntake pipe damper valve (for 16-valve internal combustion engine 21127)
Canister purge valve
Oxygen sensors
Phase sensor (for 16-valve internal combustion engine)
Mass air flow sensor (for 8-valve internal combustion engine or 16-valve internal combustion engine 21126)
AMT selector (version with AMT controller)
Tire pressure monitoring system control unit (terminal 30) (for EURO-6 vehicles)
F35AAnti-Lock Brake Controller / Stability Control Controller
F415AAirbag system control controller
F57.5AStarter Relay K2/Automatic Transmission Controller
Unloading relay of ignition switch K1
Rear window heating relay K6
Seat heating relay K13 (optional)
Heated windshield relay K14 (optional)
Fuel pump relay K12
Engine Control System Controller
Audio system
Electric Power Steering Controller
Wiper switch
Central body electronics unit (optional)
Terminal block "ERA-GLONASS"
Clutch pedal switch (for manual transmission)
Brake pedal switch
Instrument cluster
Door lock system control unit (optional)
Driver's door lock switch
Air conditioner switch (optional)
Automatic transmission speed sensor (optional)
Automatic transmission mode switch (optional)
AMT controller (optional)
Tire pressure monitoring system control unit (for EURO-6 vehicles)
F67.5AReversing light
Direction indicators
Parking system control unit (optional)
F710AStarboard high beam
F810ALeft side high beam
F95ASide lights on the starboard side
F105ALeft side marker lights
License plate lights
Trunk light
Illumination of instruments and keys
F115ARear fog lights
F1210AStarboard low beam
F1310ALeft side low beam
Headlight electric adjustment control (optional)
F1420ACentral body electronics unit:
(Windshield wiper) (optional)
Windshield washer
Windshield wiper
Steering column wiper switch
F1510ARear window wiper
Rear window washer
F16RESERVE
F17RESERVE
F18RESERVE
F19RESERVE
F20RESERVE
F2115AFuel pump motor
F227.5ABrake light switch
Brake lights
Additional brake signal
Anti-Lock Brake Controller/ Stability Control Controller
AMT controller (optional)
F235AInstrument cluster
Diagnostic connector
F2410AHorn relay K8
Sound signal
F2515ASocket for connecting additional consumers in the cabin
F265ATerminal block "ERA-GLONASS"
F2710AStarboard fog lamp (optional)
F2810ALeft side fog lamp (optional)
F2915AHeated front seats (optional)
F3010AAudio system
F3110ACentral body electronics unit: (Direction indicators; Power supply for body electronics unit) (optional)
F3230ACentral body electronics unit: (Power windows; Door and trunk locks; Rain sensor; Glove box light; Trunk light; Interior light unit; Daytime running lights) (in a variant)
F335ADriver door module
F347.5AAir conditioning compressor clutch (version with air conditioning or climate control)
Controller for automatic climate control system (optional)
F3515AAutomatic transmission controller (optional)
Automatic transmission control drive (optional)
F3615AAlarm
F3715ATrunk lock actuator switch
Door lock control unit
5ATrunk lock actuator switch
F3810ADaytime Running Lights
F3915ACartridge for connecting additional consumers in the trunk
F4010ATo the trailer lighting connector
F4150AHeated windshield (optional)
F4230AHeated exterior mirrors (optional)
Heated rear window
F4350AAMT controller (optional)
F4430AElectric heater fan
Controller for automatic climate control system (optional)
F4530APower windows for front doors
F46RESERVE

Typical faults

Fuse diagram and relay for Lada Kalina
The reasons why the cigarette lighter does not work can be different. One of them is a blown fuse. It may burn out due to connected devices, such as a compressor or splitter. To eliminate the problem, you need to open the mounting block, remove the burnt fuse and insert a new one. A regular 15 or 20 Amp fuse will do.

The second no less popular malfunction is the antenna contacts that are bent inside the device. If you use the charger frequently, the metal tendrils will unbend over time. To return the device to functionality, the antennae should be slightly bent using a flat-head screwdriver (video author: Andrei Che).

Relay diagram Lada Kalina 2

A set of relays is indicated for the maximum configuration of the “luxury” version (depending on the set of options, individual relays from this set may not be used in the “Normal” configuration).

NumberCurrent*“Standard” packageEquipment “Norma” and “Lux”
K150AUnloading relay
K230AAdditional starter relay
K330/40AWiper relayRadiator cooling fan relay
K430ARadiator cooling fan relay
K530ATurn signal relayA/C compressor clutch relay
K630APower window relayHeated rear window relay
K720AHigh beam relay
K820AHorn relay
K920ALow beam relay
K10-/20AReserveReverse light relay (in versions with automatic transmission)
K1120AECM main relay
K1220AFuel pump relay
K1320ASeat heating relay
K1430/70AAlarm relayHeated windshield relay
K1530A/-Heated rear window relay
K1630A/-Additional alarm relay

* — the first value for the “standard” configuration, the second for “norm” and “luxury”.

Relays located in the mounting block of the car interior with the ERA-GLONASS function (in a variant):

#DenominationRelay purpose
K150AIgnition switch unloading relay
K230AAdditional starter relay
K330AWindshield wiper relay (optional) / Auto start relay
K430AMaximum speed radiator fan relay (optional)
K530ATurn and hazard warning relay (optional)
K630AHeated rear window relay
K720AHigh beam relay
K820AHorn relay
K920ALow beam relay
K1020AAir conditioning compressor clutch relay (version with air conditioning or climate control)
K1120AECM main relay
K1220AFuel pump relay
K1320ASeat heating relay (optional)
K1470AHeated windshield relay (optional)
K1520AAlarm relay
K1630AHazard power relay/reverse light relay (optional)
K1730APower window power relay/radiator fan relay in auto start mode
K1830AMinimum speed radiator fan relay (optional)

Why doesn't the cigarette lighter work?

Perhaps the fuse was blown due to too much load from the compressor, charger or cigarette lighter splitter. This is one of the most common and easily fixed problems. You will need to open the fuse compartment cover to the left of the steering wheel and replace the blown one. Typically used before. 15 or 20A regular flag.

Another common reason for the cigarette lighter not to work is the unbending of the metal contacts inside it. For example, you often use a charger or power strip. Because of this, the contacts inside the cigarette lighter are unbent. In order for it to work again, you just need to bend them. This must be done carefully using a thin flat-head screwdriver without shorting the contacts, otherwise the fuse will be blown out.

If you decide to completely replace the cigarette lighter, you will need to dismantle the console from the handbrake to the dashboard with the gearbox casing, only then can you remove the cigarette lighter.

Mounting block of fuses and relays in the engine compartment of Lada Kalina 2

A set of fuses is indicated for the “luxury” version. In other versions, individual fuses from this set may not be used.

Fuse no.Current strengthProtected Circuits
FF150AHeated windshield
FF260AGenerator
FF360AGenerator
FF440A (without air conditioning - 30A)Electric radiator cooling fan
FF550AElectromechanical power steering
FF640AAnti-lock brake control unit

Fuses located in the fuse box of the engine compartment of a car with the ERA-GLONASS function (in a variant):

#DenominationProtected circuit
FF160AGenerator
FF260AGenerator
FF330AElectric radiator cooling fan
40AElectric radiator cooling fan (version with air conditioning or climate control)
FF440AAnti-Lock Brake Controller / Stability Control Controller
FF525AAnti-Lock Brake Controller / Stability Control Controller
FF650AElectric Power Steering Controller

Attention!

The relay and fuse diagram may differ depending on the configuration and production date of the vehicle.

Plato personal account: login using login and password

“Platon” (short for “payment per ton”) is a system of collecting compensation for the movement of trucks on federal highways. The measure is mandatory and applies to heavy vehicles with a capacity of 12 tons or more. In simple terms, truck drivers must pay money to the treasury for damaging roads; this money goes towards repairing these roads. To make it convenient, owners of heavy trucks need a Plato personal account. We will explain in detail how to get it and why you need it in this article below.

Registration in your personal account

To register, the user will need a valid phone number and email. To start the procedure, you need to click the “Register” icon on the page lk.platon.ru

The system will prompt you to select your country of residence and type of client:

  • individual
  • individual entrepreneur
  • legal organization

The package of documents required when filling out a personal application form will depend on the payer’s status.

By clicking the “Next” button, the user will be redirected to the “Vehicle Owner Data” section.

1) Individual When filling out a personal questionnaire, the Federal Law indicates the following information:

  • last name and first name of the vehicle owner;
  • TIN (indicated in the certificate of registration with the tax authorities);
  • valid e-mail;
  • contact number.

Nothing to burn

If the starter is spinning and sparks are flying, your no-start problem may be related to the fuel system. If your car is fuel injected, there are a number of subsystems that could be the culprit. It's a lot of diagnostic work to figure this out, but there are some things you can check in the garage that can save you money short of a trip to the repair shop.

Here's what you need to check:

Electrical connections:

There are many electrical connections in the fuel injection system. Each fuel injector has a connector on the top. There are connections on the air side of the intake and on the cylinder heads. In general, you should check every electrical connection you can find under the hood to make sure there is a connection.

Fuel pump and relay:

To check your fuel pump, you can do a fuel system pressure test - if you have the equipment. Since most of us don't have this kind of thing, we check the electrical connections first. Check the positive side of the fuel pump with a circuit tester. Be sure the key is in the "On" position. If there is current, proceed to the next step. If not, you should check the fuse. If the fuse is good, your problem is the fuel pump relay.

Fuel filter:

If the fuel pump is working properly and fuel is still not getting into the engine, the fuel filter may be clogged. You should replace the fuel filter every 30,000 km or so anyway, so if you suspect it may be clogged, replace it.

There are many more reasons for engine failure, they will be described shortly.

Source

How to check wiring

You can diagnose electrical equipment using a voltmeter, ohmmeter or multimeter, or special diagnostic stands. Computer diagnostics are also carried out, during which error codes and main indicators of the machine’s on-board network are read. To independently check circuits and troubleshoot electrical faults, one multimeter or signal lamp is enough.

We use a multimeter

Fuses in the on-board network are considered the “weakest” link in terms of durability. In case of emergency situations (for example, in the event of a short circuit), the safety elements “take the blow”, protecting the rest of the electrics and electrical equipment of the machine. Fuses cannot be restored and must be replaced during repairs.

Checking the voltage

Before checking the wiring in the car, it is necessary to measure the voltage of the electrical circuit between individual components and electrical equipment. You can call like this:

  • Set the multimeter to voltmeter mode.
  • Connect one probe of the measuring device to the “minus” of the battery or to the ground of the machine.
  • Connect the second probe to the supply wire of the circuit.

If a certain value appears on the device display, then there is voltage in this section of the electrical circuit. You can compare the values ​​with those required according to the vehicle's owner's manual.

Looking for a short circuit

After measuring the voltage, search for short circuits. This will require either a multimeter or a pilot light. As for the lamp, if the wiring is in good condition and there is no short circuit, it should not light up.

A short circuit in the wiring, as well as a lack of voltage (zero or infinite resistance in the electrical circuit), indicates a malfunction in one of 2 components:

  • Consumer - electrical equipment, devices, fuses, blocks.
  • Wiring – broken or shorted wires, poor wiring contacts at the point of connection with the consumer.

Checking for a short circuit can also be done in voltmeter mode. To do this, it is necessary to remove all fuses in the area being tested and connect the probe to the terminals of the fuse element. The value “0” on the screen indicates the presence of a short circuit in the circuit. If, when you try to move the wires, voltage appears in the circuit, then the short circuit is caused by the wiring and the wires will need to be replaced.

Checking the quality of grounding

Cars use a single-wire wiring diagram - this means that the “minus” goes to the ground (body) of the car. However, corrosion of metal parts, their oxidation and destruction, “loosening” lead to grounding failure and, as a consequence, to disruption of on-board circuit contacts.

Read more: Transmission oil for walk-behind tractor Neva MB 2

Checking the grounding, as well as other electrical elements of the car, is carried out using a multimeter. The procedure is as follows:

  1. Disconnecting the battery.
  2. Connecting one multimeter probe to the body (metal parts) of the car.
  3. Connecting the second probe to the grounding element or wiring connection.

The value displayed on the device screen should be compared with the factory data (car operating manual). If the values ​​diverge greatly, then it is necessary to restore the grounding - clean the metal at the connection point, check the reliability of the fastening.

Checking the integrity of the circuit

The connection of wires in the electrical circuit of cars is one of the most vulnerable points in the entire electrical system of the car. In addition to the destruction of insulation, loss of integrity and breaks at the connection points, oxidation of the contacts also often occurs here. Defects can be determined not only using a measuring device, but also visually. If the integrity of the circuit is broken precisely at the connection point, then soldering of wires with connectors will be required. Otherwise, you need to find the damaged area, which will require a signal lamp or multimeter.

Toyota Vista SV35, 4WD Full Time › Logbook › Checking fuses with a multimeter

Today was not a good day. I went on business, quite far from home. As soon as everything was done, I got into the car “chick-chick”, that’s it, we arrived. The car won't start. The starter does not work, there is no such “vzhzh, vzhzh”. I can only hear the fan working, the dash lights are on, I hear the fuel pump, it’s trying to pump.

I cleaned the terminals because... The same thing happened once because the terminals were oxidized. Did not help. Next I looked at the fuses. I looked in the car, the main ones seem to be intact.

Cabin fuse diagram:

Underhood fuse diagram:

I checked the fuses, they all seem to be intact, because... I remember that if the fuse died, then there will be a picture like this:

I’m thinking what to do, is it really possible that somewhere the wiring in the dashboard has burned out or a contact, what? I'm calling corefan, because... I remember the other day the same crap happened to him. He says to check the starter fuse again. It is located in the engine compartment, under number 6, at 10A. I checked, it's intact. I decided to replace it with another one that was in the glove compartment, voila - the car started up darling =)

So this method of determining whether a fuse is working is not always good.

I came home and decided to measure it with a multimeter. So, you need to measure by the mustache from above, this is mandatory.

Glushnyak, the fuse died.

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