Do-it-yourself replacement and repair of a ball joint for a VAZ 2114

Ball joint for VAZ 2114: originals, analogues, articles, prices

Design features of the VAZ 2114 ball joint

Unlike a number of foreign brands, the ball joint on the VAZ 2114 is mounted independently, without being pressed into the suspension arm. The process of replacing the support is shortened, since there is no need to additionally dismantle the lever with silent blocks.

Considering the method of fixing the ball joint, be extremely careful when overcoming road obstacles and potholes so as not to damage the chamfer of the metal pin. Otherwise, use a grinder to remove damaged threads.

How to remove a ball joint

To change the ball joint on a VAZ-2114, you need to decide on the choice of replacement method. There is one point in the procedure - pressing the cone lever out of the steering knuckle socket. The choice of technique determines the amount of tools that you need to stock up on. You should focus on the simplest method, suitable for most motorists:

1. Place the car on a flat surface.
2. Place the wheel on the desired side using a jack.

Raise the front of the car with a jack

1. Remove the wheel and unscrew the ball stud nut.

Unscrew the nut on the ball joint pin

1. Install the ball joint remover with a fork under the boot, on the reverse side of the lever relative to the nut. The finger should fit into the recess on the puller's foot.

Installing the ball joint remover

1. When tightening the puller bolt, tighten the conical connection of the pin in the socket as much as possible.

Tighten the puller bolt

1. Sometimes the finger comes out on its own, otherwise there is no need to be zealous with tightening the working thread of the device: the puller itself will break. In a tense position, it is necessary to apply several sharp blows either from below on the puller’s paw to the end of the finger, or from the side on the eye. Usually the finger then pops out with a click.
2. You must be careful; a weakened device will fall and cause injury.
3. Unscrew the two screws securing the housing and remove the worn part.

Unscrew the ball joint mounting bolts

Important! Do not work under a machine supported by a jack. You need to install a reliable stand under the support point. The car must be on the handbrake, and wheel chocks must be placed on both sides of the rear wheels.

Experienced craftsmen do without a puller. Either a conical impact fork is used, or tension is created on the finger with a pry bar, after which a strong blow is applied to the eye.

Removing the ball joint without a special puller

Without skill, this is unlikely to happen; it’s easier to purchase a puller.

The most common causes of failure of VAZ 2114 suspension elements

• failure by the owner of the car to comply with the terms of technical inspection;
• the consequences of saving on high-quality, original spare parts, as a result of which the parts do not maintain the proper service life;
• aggressive driving style of the VAZ 2114. First of all, this is a passenger car, and not a racing car with the appropriate characteristics;
• third-party mechanical damage to the steering knuckle, caliper, hub, support bearing, resulting in deformation of the ball joint;
• violation of installation technology.

Before starting repair work, service station technicians recommend carrying out a comprehensive diagnostic of the vehicle in order to study the general condition, identify breakdowns, and correctly calculate the number of spare parts and consumables. A preliminary inspection will help to accurately identify the location of the breakdown and detect the faulty part.

The process of self-diagnosis is not at all complicated; there is no need for special equipment or tools. A standard set of car keys, a crab-shaped puller, is enough. It is extremely difficult to press out a metal tip without a puller.

Step-by-step diagnostic process:

• We take a partner to help, he will press his hands on the wing, simulating the car getting into a pothole. The owner identifies the source by ear from under the bottom;
• if the first method does not bring the desired result, we will use the old, proven old-fashioned method: using a mount we check the condition of the fastenings of the suspension elements, hub, and steering knuckle.

In good condition there should be no third-party sounds, creaks, or grinding sounds. Otherwise, the units must be replaced with new ones.

The manufacturer in the operating instructions indicates a maximum free play of the ball joint pin of 0.8 mm. Without special equipment, it is impossible to check the permissible gap.

In parallel with the diagnosis and replacement of suspension elements, we inspect the steering knuckle, hub, support bearing, and brake caliper. We assess the general condition and decide on the advisability of replacing worn parts.

Since the work is carried out near the shock absorber and spring, we check for the presence of oily streaks and depressurization of the shock absorber cylinder. Finally, we diagnose the support bearing located in the engine compartment.

What is the lifespan of the ball joint?

The service life of a ball joint mainly depends on several factors; it can range from 15 to 120 thousand kilometers.

Even a small crack in the boot will sharply shorten the life of the ball joint. This can cause water, dirt and sand to enter the joint. To prevent damage to the ball joint, it is necessary to observe the condition of the protective rubber boot. It is best to do this on an overpass.

In order for ball joints to last longer, you should drive more carefully on broken roads, and also replace damaged boots in a timely manner.

Source

Replacing a ball joint on a VAZ 2114

After completing the comprehensive diagnostics, we proceed to replacing the ball joint:

• For convenience, we use an inspection hole or a lift. We do not consider a platform or a road overpass due to impracticality;
• We carry out basic safety measures: install wheel chocks, squeeze the parking brake lever, turn on first gear to provide stability;
• unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the wheel;
• Unscrew the two “14” bolts that secure the upper part of the ball joint to the steering knuckle;
• By analogy, unscrew the lower nut securing the pin;
• Next, using a crab-shaped puller, press the finger out of the base. We do this very carefully so as not to damage the thread pitch. We put a wooden spacer for safety;
• lower the edge of the beam down and remove the ball joint from its seat.

We carry out preventive maintenance, troubleshooting, and clean the surface from lubricant residues, metal shavings, and corrosion layers. Apply a thin layer of graphite grease to the eyelet.

If there are no comments on the operation and condition of other parts, we begin assembling the structure again. By analogy, we complete the replacement on the opposite side. Subsequent maintenance after 15,000 km, replacement no earlier than after 35 - 40 thousand km. Do-it-yourself replacement of the ball joint is completed. About how much the service costs at a service station, check directly with the specialists.

Which manufacturer of ball joints is better? There are no fundamental differences, the main thing is that the catalog articles completely coincide with the data in the instruction manual.

Recommendations for suspension maintenance and increasing the service life of mechanisms

• purchase spare parts and components exclusively from certified points of sale, dealers, and official representative offices;
• do not buy parts when their cost is uncharacteristically low, which indicates a fake, not original;
• take a moderate driving style as a rule;
• Operate primarily at medium speeds in the range of 80 – 95 km/h. This will increase the total resource of nodes by 15 - 20%;
• If you do not have personal experience in servicing, use the services of proven service stations and auto repair shops, where they provide a quality guarantee for the work performed.

Take a comprehensive approach to diagnosing and repairing breakdowns, replace all worn-out elements and components. Use handicraft services to a lesser extent. In order to prevent sudden breakdowns, conduct a quick inspection of the VAZ 2114 every day, check the levels of oil, antifreeze, and washer fluid in the washer reservoir.

Do-it-yourself replacement of lower ball joints (for beginners)

Attention, before installing the balls, lubricate them with CV joint or grease under the rubber, which is included when purchasing a pair of balls, otherwise they may soon squeak!

They were changed about a couple of years ago. Then I made the replacement with my brother. I remember we had a terrible time with him. This time I did everything myself. I decided to describe in detail how to do what. We will need: - a wrench - a pipe - heads for 19, 17, 13 - mounting (crowbar) - a jack - a bolt After you have raised the car, put something under the wheels to prevent it from rolling, unscrewed the wheel and placed it under the car, you can start working on the ball ones themselves. First we unscrewed the nut to 19.

If there is a puller, then completely, if there is none, then half.

If there is no puller, then insert a crowbar between the lower lever and the ball, press down and tap with a hammer at the place of the lever where the ball pin is inserted.

After you have been able to tear off the support, unscrew the bolts to 17 (2 pcs).

Then pull the lever down and take out the ball. If you are not too strong, then it would be best to unscrew the stabilizer from the body. But there is a chance that the studs will break off after you start tightening the stub. But with the stabilizer unscrewed, it is easier to pull the lever down and pull out the ball joint.

But, as I progressed, I found another way out of this situation! We simply take and place something solid under the brake disc (bars, bricks, blocks, etc.). I used the boards that cover the hole in the garage. Then we lower the car. As a result, the hub rises and the lower arm will move away from it, and you can easily get the ball joint.

You can also lift the disk with a second jack, but this is dangerous; the jack may come off. Be careful, don't rush! I tore a new boot on the ball.

But installing the ball this way is difficult! It’s still easier to unscrew the stabilizer from the body. It’s easier and you’ll save a lot of time (if you don’t break the stub studs). Reassemble everything in reverse order.

Now a few words about how I steamed with the stub.

I unscrewed it, but it’s not enough to put the power back on. It's about to break! Then we take what can be placed under the brake disc. Again I used boards. We line it up longitudinally under the car (as the engine stands) and use a crowbar to pull the stub mount up and try to get into the studs.

It is better to start with the stud that is closer to the rear of the car. We tighten the nut, and the other fastener will be pulled into place.

We unfold the crowbar and tighten the fastening on the other side and again screw on the other stabilizer nut.

I also want to add 1 more method, which is the simplest. To make it easiest to put the stabilizer back, you simply lower the car from the jack with the wheels screwed on. It will fall into place on its own and you can easily screw it on without additional tools.

Look like that's it. If anyone doesn't understand something, ask.

Signs of a bad ball joint

1. The occurrence of knocking from the wheels when the car is moving (especially for locations with holes and uneven surfaces).
2. Can occur at any speed conditions. As a rule, it is observed when crossing ditches, sharp turns and braking. Sometimes it is one-time, and sometimes permanent.
3. The appearance of changes in the camber and toe system . Most often, it is not visible to the human eye and is revealed only when the volume of rubber around the edge of the wheels is reduced. For this reason, it often requires contacting car services for diagnostic work.
4. The presence of uncontrolled “wobbling ” when moving. If there is play inside the ball joint, the wheel may wobble while driving. For this reason, the car is not able to keep a smooth ride, despite any type of road surface. An increase in speed accompanies an increase in the effect, but it is not always possible to notice it.
5. The appearance of a squeaking sound when turning the wheels at the front.
6. Uneven wear on front tires. Damage to the structural element in the form of a ball joint causes the steering wheel to lack a strictly vertical position. Due to the resulting angle of inclination, the tread wears unevenly, which can be checked by normal visual inspection.
7. When braking, the trajectory changes . Sometimes, almost when the VAZ 2114 car stops moving, along with braking, a slight unplanned turn is made. Along with this, clicking sounds are usually observed, which begin to intensify over time.

Choosing the right new ball joints

The chassis of Lada Kalina cars of both generations (models 1117, 1118, 1119, 2192 and 2194) is built on a complete base, which is for the most part unified with earlier and later cars of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant. In particular, all Kalinas are equipped with the same ball joints that were used on the Samara family (VAZ-2108, 2109, 21099) and Samara 2 (VAZ-2113, 2114 and 2115), Lada 110 (VAZ- 2110, 2111, 2112), as well as on the current Priora and Granta models.

Ball joints for these model series have the original catalog number 21100-2904192-82, the same supports complete with fasteners have the number 21100-2904192-86.

Moreover, today the market offers two modifications of ball joints - standard welded and reinforced stamped ones. Hinges differ in production technology and the thickness of the metal used, which affects their strength characteristics, durability and price, but their installation dimensions and characteristics are the same. Therefore, it’s up to you to decide which supports to buy for your car.

Necessary tool

• The jack (hydraulic or pneumatic to choose from) is designed to raise the machine to the desired level to simplify the process of checking and further replacing the VAZ 2114 ball joint if necessary.
• A set of wrenches allows you to loosen the tightening on the desired part and unscrew the bolts and nuts.
• A ball joint remover will be needed to remove them.
• Wheel chocks are used to be placed under the rear of the car. Sometimes a brick base is used here to simplify the task.
• Supports under the car to improve interaction with the jack, to ensure safety during the operation. In addition, sometimes a block of wood is also used.

Advice from experienced motorists

Some repair work involves disassembling certain components. And the ball joint is no exception. Experienced motorists give some practical advice on this matter, with the help of which you can kill two or even more birds with one stone.

Check the quality of the cable tension from the handbrake, and also make sure that the cable itself is intact.

Plus, any independent repair, each small inspection is a coin into your own treasury of personal experience. With it you can perform much more complex procedures than replacing a ball joint.

Don't forget one more important point . Self-repair of many components means saving the family budget. With the money you save, you can take your family somewhere or buy something useful for your home. Or purchase a set of new high-quality tires, wheels, and do some tuning work. Indeed, technically, thanks to your efforts, the car is in excellent condition.

Methods for checking ball joints yourself

How to check the ball joint on a VAZ 2114 is described below. It is clear that most car owners are thinking about visiting services. But you can carry out a full check of this structural element yourself without unnecessary trips and financial costs.

Without removing the wheel

To quickly check the ball joints on a VAZ 2114, it is not necessary to remove the wheel about which you have doubts and questions about a potential malfunction. But it is worth stocking up on a small amount of time and it is advisable to invite one more person, since together you can perform the diagnosis with a greater degree of accuracy.

A quick check comes down to listening to the ball joint of the VAZ 2114. To do this, you need to swing the car in directions perpendicular to the main one for the car. At the same time, you should listen carefully to the sounds that arise from the ball joint and suspension.

With the wheel removed and on a jack

For a more accurate and detailed check of the VAZ 2114 ball joints, you will need to remove one of the wheels using a hydraulic or pneumatic jack. But as mentioned above, in order to increase safety (especially in cases with subsequent installation), it is necessary to think about stronger and more stable supports.

Thus, if uncertainty arises when performing the quick check from the previous point, it is worth using a jack. To do this, you need to lift the VAZ 2114 from the side where you want to check the condition of the ball joint. The wheel is rocked in the same way: in directions perpendicular to the movement. Using this approach, play in the bearing system can be confirmed or eliminated.

Using the same principle, after checking the VAZ 2114 ball joint, you can dismantle and install a new part. But in this case, you must first select and purchase it.

Clunking sound in the front suspension

One of the most common symptoms of bad front suspension ball joints is a clunking sound from the front of the car. As the hinges wear, play occurs, which leads to clanging and grinding noises when moving suspension parts. Clunking and knocking noises may occur when driving on uneven roads, when accelerating or braking hard, or when turning corners. Typically, as it wears, the sound gets louder until the joint completely fails or breaks.

Signs of a faulty ball joint VAZ 2114

If, while driving over bumps or small irregularities, you hear a knocking sound in the front suspension of a VAZ 2109, 2114, then this is a reason to start looking for a fault! There are two ways to check the ball joint of a VAZ 2109 - 2114 for a malfunction.

The first method does not require an inspection hole, but a jack is required. We hang the front wheel on a jack and sharply pull it toward and away from us. If the ball joint is faulty, it will make a sound and the wheel will have play.

If you have a garage with an inspection hole or overpass, then inspect the ball joint boots for damage. If the boot is torn, this is a sign of wear on the ball joint of the VAZ 2114 and it is better to replace such a ball joint even if it does not knock yet. Place a crowbar or pry bar between the ball and lever. Place one end on the lever and the other on the bolt or ball housing and try to move them apart. For convenience, you can turn the steering wheel towards the wheel being tested. If there is play, the ball must be replaced.

Many people wonder: can a ball joint fly out on a VAZ 2109? Answer: Yes! Maybe! Therefore, if there are signs of a malfunction of this part, do not delay repairs. Moreover, it is not difficult. Next, I will tell you how to replace the VAZ 2109 - 2114 ball joint with your own hands.

Tools and accessories for repair

In order to carry out repairs yourself, you will need the following tools:

1. Hydraulic or pneumatic jack.
2. A set of keys.
3. Puller for ball joints.
4. Assembly blade or small crowbar.
5. Wheel chocks (shoes) and supports for the car.
6. Wooden block.

Also be sure to buy the kit, which includes:

1. Ball joint for VAZ cars models 2108, 2109, 2114, etc.
2. Rubber-metal boot of the ball joint. There should be no damage to it, be careful when choosing.
3. Nut with thread lock.
4. Two bolts with engraving washers.

Be sure to purchase Litol-24 or similar lubricant so that you can drive it under the boot during installation. This will increase the resource of the element.

How to replace a ball joint on a VAZ 2114

To replace the ball joint of a VAZ 2109, 2114, place the car on a jack and remove the wheel. Now unscrew one nut securing the ball joint to the lever and two bolts securing the ball joint to the hub.

If you have a ball joint remover

If you have a puller, place it as shown in the photo and remove the ball.

How to determine whether a ball joint is faulty

The condition of the supports, unfortunately, cannot always be determined by stands designed for diagnosing suspension units. You can assess their condition using the usual old methods - by touch and hearing.

Method No. 1

When a hearing test takes place, you need to rock the car and listen to what exactly is knocking in it.

Method No. 2

In order to avoid diagnostic errors, with the brake pedal depressed all the way (to eliminate bearing play), the wheel must be rocked by hand. To do this, you need to grab it at the highest and lowest points. If play is still felt, then know that there is a gap in the support and it needs to be replaced. But to determine the amount of wear, it would be better to use the most accurate devices and tools.

In the classic VAZ car model there is a special control hole located in the design of the lower ball joint. To diagnose it, use a caliper or depth gauge to measure the distance between the end of the ball pin and the outer surface of the body through this control hole under load. For VAZ cars the figure will be no more than 11.8 millimeters (for original supports).

The play in the upper support can be measured with a specialized device with an indicator. The play should not be higher than 0.8 millimeters.

If you do not have specialized tools or devices at hand, you can place your palm on the body of the ball joint so that you simultaneously touch the body and your finger. Ask your partner to rock the wheel. If there is play, then, as a rule, it is felt.