Replacing the Bendix on the starter of a VAZ 2114 with your own hands

Features of mechanism diagnostics

The starting unit is checked using a tester. After turning on the device, the voltmeter reading should not be higher than 8V, and the current should not exceed 23A.

You can check the windings using a tester; if it lights up, it means there is a short circuit. To perform a visual inspection of the starting unit, it must be removed and cleaned of dirt (video author - Irina Kuzilova)

When disassembling the device, each part should be visually inspected. Scores and scratches can be removed using sandpaper. Broken and worn parts must be replaced. It is also necessary to replace the VAZ 2106 starter bushings if they are badly worn.

A faulty collector cannot be repaired; it is advisable to replace it. The height is checked on the brushes. More than 12 mm is considered optimal, otherwise the brushes must be replaced.

Common starter problems and their causes

Regardless of whether 2106 or UAZ is installed, the problems are similar. If the car does not start, the VAZ 2106 is bad, first check the quality of battery charging. In addition, you should check how well the terminals are secured. If everything is fine with the charging and terminals, then the cause of problems with starting the engine may be in the starter.

The following malfunctions of the VAZ 2106 starter are possible:

1. The device turns on, but the traction relay does not work: the traction wire is broken, the tips are not tightened well, there is a short circuit in the traction windings or to ground, the contacts have oxidized, the retractor armature is stuck.
2. After switching on, a click occurs, the traction relay works, but the armature does not function or it rotates too slowly, the starter does not turn: the fastening bolts on the retractor are not tightened well, the brushes are worn out or stuck, the commutator plates are short-circuited or are burned out, the windings are damaged.
3. When starting, the relay clicks, the armature works, but the crankshaft does not rotate: the buffer spring is broken, the clutch slips, slips out of the axle, or the clutch engagement lever is broken.
4. The starter does not turn off when the engine starts: the relay or drive lever is stuck, the contacts are stuck together, the mechanism is skewed, the ignition switch return spring is faulty.
5. Increased noise during startup: the unit is poorly secured, the bushings are worn, the teeth on the gears are broken.

Starter VAZ 2106 how to remove and replace it

The scheme for dismantling the old device and connecting a new one does not require special forces from the car enthusiast. Anyone who is “armed” with the necessary tools (screwdrivers, a mandrel, several keys - 10, 8 and 13, a hammer, pliers), will be able to remove the gear starter and will carefully watch the video of this process (for many car enthusiasts it is enough to study the photo of the operation so that the disassembly of the mechanism will be “ without a hitch").

The diagram for such disassembly and connection of a working device is elementary. First, the air filter (or rather its housing) is removed. To do this, you need to use a 13mm wrench. Use it to disconnect all three bolts that secure the filter to the gearbox housing. After this, the wires are pulled away from the starter and dismantled. Now you can begin disassembling the mechanism in the following sequence.

Originals, analogues, articles and prices

The first modifications of the Lada Kalina were equipped with a starting device with the catalog number “21120-3708010-00” (KZATE). It was fixed to the block wall with three nuts.

After the release of the Lada Kalina with a cable-controlled gearbox, the method of fixing the PU changed to a screw one.

Original indexes:

• 21120-3708010-00;
• 21901-3708023-00;
• 21120-3708045-00 (KATEK, KZATE, ZiT);
• 21901-3708051-00 (VALEO) (8 valves);
• 21902-3708056-00 (VALEO) (16 valves).

For automatic transmission type: Jatco – 21902-3708135-00.

The cost of PU varies depending on the modification. Base price from 3100 rubles. On models with a new type of fixation from 3400 – 3500 rubles.

Foreign analogues are no better in quality than domestic ones. The cost is 10 - 15% more expensive. Manufacturers: Blue Print, Bremi, Febi, Bilstein, Fenox, Glaser (see photo).

Instructions for removing and repairing the starter yourself

For diagnostics and repairs, the unit must be removed.

The removal procedure consists of the following steps:

1. To access the device, you must remove the air filter.
2. The starter is attached to the gearbox housing using three bolts. To remove it, you need to use a 13 key to first unscrew the two upper bolts, and then the one at the bottom. It is more convenient to unscrew it from the hole.
3. Then you need to disconnect the wires, and you can remove the mechanism and begin repairs.

For repairs you will need the necessary tools.

On a VAZ 2106, starter repair begins with disassembly, consisting of the following steps:

1. First of all, the solenoid relay is removed.
2. Next, the retractor anchor is pulled out.
3. At the next stage, we dismantle the upper protective casing.
4. Next, we dismantle the rotor shaft. In this case, you should check the short circuit to the housing.
5. Then unscrew the screws securing the cover, winding and wires.
6. Next, separate the cover from the body and remove the brushes.
7. Then, using a mandrel, press in the rear bearing.
8. At the next stage, remove the cotter pin, anchor with fork and rubber plug.
9. Next you need to get the second bearing.
10. Then, moving the washer away, removing the retaining ring, we dismantle the bendix.

This is where the disassembly ends. Now every part is inspected and problems are corrected. Assembly is performed in reverse order. Before assembly, you need to lubricate the parts of the starting unit. After installation, the starter should be connected. The connection should be made according to the connection diagram, and then check the functionality.

Connection diagram and possible difficulties

Replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2114 with your own hands

To prevent a starter failure from taking you by surprise, let’s look at how to replace it yourself. But before we talk directly about connecting the VAZ 2107 starter, you should find out how to dismantle the old element. The only problem you will encounter is the inconvenient location of the part; both carburetor and injection models suffer from this.

We install the car above the inspection hole, since the unit can only be reached through the bottom. Be sure to turn off the ignition. Then remove the battery cover and disconnect the ground terminal. To free access, the battery must be removed, and we do this together with the support. It's time to unscrew the wire harness clamp and remove them from the traction relay. And the last operation is to unscrew the bolted connections securing the part.

Next, we are interested in the connection diagram for the starter on the VAZ 2107. Having installed the new element in its regular place, we screw the longest bolt first, and then we fix the remaining fasteners. We install back the wire terminals, harness supports and battery. We connect the battery and do not forget to replace the protective cover and the dirt shield.

For non-carburetor models, some inconvenience may arise during installation, so when replacing a VAZ 2107 injection-type starter, it would be useful for the owner to remove the inlet pipe extension.

With careful attention and no haste, this entire operation is unlikely to pose any complications, so even an inexperienced car owner will be able to handle the replacement process. The scheme is already known, and for clarity, we tried to duplicate all the steps with photographic materials; now everyone can change the starter on a VAZ 2107. The main thing is to choose the right mechanism for your car, and the principle of operation can be either conventional or geared; when replacing, many do not miss the opportunity to acquire a more complex but effective mechanism.

How to change Bendix on the starter

First of all, you need to make sure that the overrunning clutch is to blame for the starter malfunction, and not, for example, the retractor relay. The question of how to check Bendix is ​​asked by many car owners who have encountered similar faults. Finding out that the Bendix starter needs to be replaced or repaired is quite simple - the electric motor of the starting device runs “idle” without cranking the car’s engine. Simply put, the bendix does not engage with the flywheel, slipping on the armature shaft.

The first stage of repair is to remove the entire device from the car engine. For most car brands, this procedure is quite simple. To do this you will need:

• Remove the negative terminal from the battery;
• Remove the positive wire from the solenoid relay;
• Unscrew the bolts securing the engine;
• Remove the starter from the engine compartment.

In some cases, you will have to remove the engine protection and pull out the unit from below.

Next, the question arises of how to remove the bendix from the starter without damaging anything. The designs of starters for passenger cars of almost all brands are the same, and in order to remove the culprit of the breakdown from them you will need:

• Remove the solenoid relay;
• Pull out the pusher;
• Remove the front part of the starter;
• Remove the retaining ring from the armature shaft;
• Pull out the overrunning clutch.

After removing the overrunning clutch, you must carefully examine its condition to make sure that repairing the starter bendix is ​​impossible. Next, install the new unit, thoroughly cleaning the armature shaft. When choosing a new overrunning clutch, you must not make a mistake with its marking. Often it is not enough to simply indicate the make and model of the car engine - starters may be installed from different manufacturers at the factory and the repair product simply will not fit. For example, if the Bendix is ​​being replaced with a Ford Focus, then the markings can be read on its body.

When performing assembly work on the starting unit and installing it on the car engine, it is necessary to pay special attention to attaching the wire to the solenoid relay. Next, we check the functionality of the car.

If the solenoid relay operates normally and the engine rotates confidently after turning the ignition key, then the repair work has been completed correctly.

Bendix repair

Do-it-yourself Bendix starter repair is possible if the rollers are worn out first, or the source of the problem is contamination or frozen lubricant.

The Bendix is ​​assembled by rolling, and the outer race of the clutch is made of durable metal. It is difficult to flare it, so the fastest way is to carefully cut through the clip with a grinder.

Having knocked the weakened clip off the Bendix, we remove the gear, rollers and springs from it. After washing the insides, we check the absence of deep nicks in the grooves of the coupling and on the gear shank.

We inspect the rollers: the surface should be cylindrical, without signs of wear. A replacement for the rollers can be found by disassembling a roller bearing of a suitable size (bearing parameters can be found in reference books). We stretch the weakened springs a couple of millimeters or select new ones.

After assembling the Bendix dry, we check its operation by turning the gear in the direction of jamming: the rollers should block the Bendix, after turning in the opposite direction, immediately release the gear.

Before assembly, add a medium-viscosity grease to the Bendix so that it does not thicken excessively in the cold. Moreover, there should be a minimum of lubrication: its task is to protect the insides of the coupling from corrosion; excessive lubrication only gets in the way.

Having put the clip in place, we fix the edges of the cut with spot welding. In this case, you cannot overheat the bendix; it is better to use a semi-automatic machine. We clean off the protruding weld so that it does not interfere with the movement of the bendix in the starter housing.

The Bendix or starter drive is a unit consisting of a clutch with a gear and a fork connected to a solenoid relay. The clutch is also called an “overrunning” clutch. Three types of starters were installed on Lada 114 hatchbacks: 29.3708, 423.3708. and also 5712.3708. The first two differ only in the shape of the fork, as well as in the design of parts not related to Bendix. And the starter 5712.3708 is a modern device equipped with a gearbox. The seating dimensions of all starters do not differ in any way. On any car, including the VAZ-2114, replacing the Bendix begins with dismantling the starter. We will look at this operation now.

The following video shows how a starter behaves with a faulty bendix.

Types of starters that are equipped with VAZ 2106

There are 2 types of such electric machines:

• with gearbox;
• without gearbox.

A car starter with a gearbox is more efficient and functional even with a low battery charging current. As a disadvantage, it should be noted that the rotation gear may be defective. Electric machines that are not equipped with a gearbox are simpler and provide almost instantaneous engagement with the flywheel ring. This significantly speeds up the ignition timing. The advantage is its high degree of reliability. As a disadvantage, the starter turns poorly in the low temperature range.

In the latest configurations of the “sixes”, the electrical system is equipped with starters of the ST-221 brand under the item number 35.3708 with an end receiver-collector. In some batches of vehicles, the installation of German or Belarusian electric vehicles is allowed. This starter is adapted to the performance characteristics of a standard product.

Basic tactical and technical data of the VAZ 2106 starter:

1. The nominal power of the product is 1.3 kW.
2. The nominal current value is 260-290 A.
3. The maximum current value in non-operating conditions is 500-550 A.
4. The maximum current value in idle mode without a relay is 35-60 A.

In the final modifications, some design changes were made to the VAZ 2106 starter device. In the last quarter of the twentieth century, when assembling the “six”, the ST-221 was mounted with a collector-receiver in the form of a cylinder, which had a different aft segment and a stator winding with a different set of shunt and serial coils. The basic design of the VAZ 2106 starter can be seen below:

1 – drive gear; 2 – overrunning clutch; 3 – leash ring; 4 – rubber rubber plug; 5 – drive lever; 6 – drive casing; 7 – relay anchor; 8 – relay winding; 9 – contact type plate; 10 – relay cover; 11 – bolts for contact; 12 – collector device; 13 – starter brush holder; 14 – anchor bushing; 15 – collector cover; 16 – protective cover; 17 – body part; 18 – pole element; 19 – anchor device; 20 – ring of intermediate fastening; 21 – limiter ring.

Replacing the bendix on the starter

First you need to disconnect the terminals from the battery. This will eliminate the possibility of electric shock, as well as damage to the elements of the machine's electrical supply system. Next, you need to unscrew the starter mounting nuts and remove it from the studs. Usually the starter is secured with three nuts, but there are exceptions. After removing the starter from the studs, you need to move it slightly to the side, ensuring easy access and visibility, and then unscrew the power wires. There should be no further obstacles to remove the starter from the engine compartment. You can start disassembling it. Most often, the starter cover is secured to the body with a clamp. To remove it you will need to unscrew the corresponding bolt. In this case, you need to remember what position the clamp was in. In addition, you will need to unscrew a couple of bolts securing the cover. Next, using a screwdriver to help yourself, you can push the internal elements of the starter out of its housing. This will require removing the starter fork. The bendix will be located at the top of the anchor. To remove the ring that covers the main corkscrew ring, you need a 13-size open-end wrench and a small hammer or other “impact” tool. The key must be carefully applied to the ring and gently hit it until the ring moves. After this, the thin retaining ring will become visible

It must be removed very carefully, avoiding bending. This is a rather complicated procedure

To do this you will need a screwdriver. It is best if there are several different sizes in stock so that you can choose the best option. After some effort, you should be able to pry the ring and carefully pull it out. After this, it is possible to dismantle the bendix itself.{typography legend_blue}It is worth noting that it is better to buy bendix in a store, taking with you the part removed from the starter. The fact is that different couplings can differ from each other in the smallest details that cannot be remembered visually. As a result, you can buy the wrong spare part.{/typography}Installation of a new Bendix is ​​carried out in the reverse order. After putting it on the shaft, you also need to carefully put on the retaining ring using the selected screwdriver

It is very important not to bend it. After putting it on, you need to crimp it with pliers

Next, you can put the large ring in place. To do this, you can again use a 13-size open-end wrench and a hammer. All actions are carried out carefully. Next, you can insert the anchor with the installed bendix into place. At the same time, do not forget to reinstall the starter fork. At the same time, it is necessary to inspect the remaining elements of this unit. {typography legend_blue}If the plastic washer installed in the starter cover is cracked or worn, it needs to be replaced. If the insulation on the starter studs is damaged, it must be repaired using electrical tape. {/typography}After assembling the starter, you need to tighten the cover fastening nuts and also tighten the clamp. After finishing the work, you can begin installing the starter in place. First you need to connect the power wires, and then install the unit in place. After tightening the starter mounting nuts and connecting the battery terminals, you can check the result of the work performed.

Progress

We start with preparatory measures.
First of all, you need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Replacing the Bendix will require manipulation of the electrical wiring, so disconnecting the battery is a mandatory safety requirement. Next we move on to the solenoid relay. You will see two bolts on it: upper and lower. The first is connected to a conductor connecting the relay to the battery. It will need to be turned off, here you will need a key set to 13. Nearby you will notice a small wire that provides power to the winding when you turn the key in the ignition. It will also need to be turned off; just pull it slightly to the left. Next we move on to the procedure for removing the starter. On the front panel you will notice three nuts, located from top to bottom. They can also be removed using a key number 13. Dismantling is completed, the starter needs to be pulled out and prepared to work directly with it. You will need to disassemble this element, remove the non-working bendix from it and install a new one. But first things first.

After you have removed the starter, inspect it. Assess the current condition of the bushing, rotor windings, brushes and lamellas. If you notice any damage to them, you will have the opportunity to replace them immediately. Now let's move on to disassembling the device. It is performed as follows:

1. The cover is fixed to the body with two bolts. Let's remove them.
2. Next in line for dismantling will be the bolts securing the retractor to the starter and the nut that ensures contact with the power cable.
3. You can now see the retaining ring on the rotor. We dismantle it.
4. We arm ourselves with a 10mm wrench and remove the studs.
5. The brushes are connected to the contacts using small bolts. The screwdriver comes to our aid.

The starter can now be separated.
It will separate into 3 parts. Finally, let's move on to the most important thing - dismantling the Bendix

To begin, you will need to carefully knock off the washer located on the rotor shaft. A small hammer will help you with this

There is a ring underneath that you will need a screwdriver to remove. And finally, the old bendix can be removed.

But what if the reason does not lie in the breakdown of this element? In fact, this is very easy to check. Try spinning the gear. If it grabs after 1/4 turn, then the bendix is ​​working. If the gear rotates freely in both directions, you can safely throw away the Bendix. Installation is carried out in reverse order.

Possible causes of failure

As mentioned above, gear rotation is only possible in the direction of rotation of the starter armature. If rotation in the opposite direction is possible, this is an obvious malfunction, that is, the bendix must be repaired or replaced. There may be several reasons for this:

• Reduction in the diameter of the working rollers in the cage due to natural wear. The way out is to select and purchase balls of a similar diameter. Some car enthusiasts use other metal objects, such as pieces of a drill, instead of balls. However, we still do not recommend doing it yourself, but buying balls of the required diameter.
• The presence on one side of the roller of flat surfaces formed due to natural wear. Repair recommendations are similar to the previous paragraph.
• Grinding the working surfaces of the driving or driven race in those places where they come into contact with the rollers. In this case, repair is hardly possible, since such excavation cannot be removed. That is, it is necessary to replace the bendix.

What is the design of the gear-six starter?

The VAZ 2106, produced after the 1980s, has a starter with an end manifold model 35.3708. Earlier cars from the Volzhsky plant had a different gear mechanism installed - ST-221, which was equipped with a cylindrical manifold. Their structure is approximately the same, so they are completely interchangeable.

Let's take a closer look at the design of the mechanisms that interest us, using model 35.3708 as an example. The “six” gear starter consists of the following main parts:

• field winding (i.e. stator) and housing;
• electric drive with anchor;
• three special covers;
• electromagnetic traction relay with two windings (one of them is retracting, the other is holding).

Using bolts, the starter housing is secured into one block with three covers. The armature of the mechanism we are interested in has a core, a commutator and a shaft. The last of these elements rotates in metal-ceramic bushings (there are two of them structurally provided). These bushings are pressed into the covers and must be impregnated with a lubricant. The starter drive is located at the end of the shaft. It includes a gear and a roller clutch, which is necessary to transmit torque to the flywheel.

On the front cover there is a relay consisting of a yoke, several flanges and a core. When the gear mechanism is turned on, two processes occur simultaneously: the armature is retracted, and the drive and gear mesh with the flywheel; a special contact plate closes the bolts. The result of these processes is the start of power supply to the windings of the device we are considering. As you can see, the circuit for switching on and operating the “six” starter is quite simple.

Starter for VAZ 2114: finding, removing and troubleshooting

In the ignition system of an injection engine, the starter is one of the key components.
Its functional purpose is to spin the crankshaft until gasoline ignites in the cylinder block and the engine begins to rotate the crankshaft on its own. This article will examine in detail the design features of the starter on the VAZ 2114 and the principle of operation, its location, as well as signs of malfunction, causes and methods for eliminating typical breakdowns.

Location of the starter on the VAZ 2114