Replacing the front wheel bearing on a VAZ 2107. classic repair

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Replacing the wheel bearings of a VAZ 2107 with a special puller is quite quick and simple, so changing the bearing in the front hub will not be difficult even with your own hands. The author of the video demonstrates clearly how, using a tool and a hammer, he first knocked out the old one and then pressed new bearings, a ring and an oil seal into the front wheel hub with a hammer. If you need to replace the entire hub, the procedure is even simpler, since you only need to remove the brake caliper, brake disc and hub, and dismantle the hub.

Repair of VAZ 2101, 2106, 2107 hub

Maintenance-free front hubs on VAZ 2107 (bushing drawing)

This time we will talk about maintenance-free front hub bearings. Having changed 3 bearings over the winter (sometimes they didn’t last, sometimes they overtightened them, sometimes they fell apart during maintenance), I got tired of all this, surfing the Internet and DRIVE came across articles about maintenance-free bearings on the front. There are several options: 1. Buy a ready-made kit. There are people who sharpen hubs and axles for them. 2. hub with axle from Izh od (also suitable) - I couldn’t find it 3. Rear hub from 08 VAZ + bearing also rear and + adapter sleeve - that’s what you need and in terms of cost.

hub with bearing

Since I didn't look carefully at the bearings? and bought an extra stopper, but they were in the box. Next, we will need classic wheel nuts, 08 ones will not fit, and the ring that presses the bearing is also classic.

all assembled + bushings

made the bushings according to the drawings

1

2

3,1

The first time I did it according to the first one, I’ll say right away it was in vain, the size 22 was not the topic and during installation the bushing swelled while I was inserting it. but more on that later.

here is my modified drawing

So we collect all this and happily go to the garage (well, that’s how it was for me), we begin to take everything apart

Having unscrewed the nut and the caliper, I had the first problem: I bent the brake disc (I don’t know how, but I did, I realized this when I was putting everything back together after the second problem), so I knocked over the old hub with the dead bearings, we start assembling it and now it’s not a problem, there’s an error in size, no Well, it’s okay and you can knock it out, and in the end I put everything back in the car in the garage and we’re waiting for it to be re-sharpened...

this is how it was inflated due to the wrong size, after measuring the axle, I changed the dimensions

Finally, they machined the bushings for me, and I, happy, flew to the garage to finish it... Since everything was put back in place temporarily, we disassemble everything: we remove the caliper, peel off the brake disc, knock off the hub (I’ll tell you right away that everything came off quickly on the left side, but on the right I had to suffer.) When everything was removed and wiped clean of fuel oil and grease, we put it back together.

I figured it wasn't bad

We put the bushing on the axle, now everything is easy to install

now with the hub

Install the second part of the bushing

Well, a washer with a nut (the nut and washer are original - classic)

Now everything needs to be tightened. I pulled it with a ratchet and then, using a piece of a meter-long pipe, tightened it with force. I don't have a torque wrench, and I don't need one yet.

I almost forgot about the disks

I bought these on occasion for only 1500 for 2, and they look better, and are not much more expensive than the original 600 rubles pieces. I assembled the left side - let's move on to the right. There was a little dance with a tambourine, a vdshka, a sledgehammer, and everything flew off (of course, I removed the caliper). In general, the hub, together with the disk, flew off.

We assemble it, tighten it in the same way, and test drive... Result: it steers better, rolls better, less noise. I really don’t know what’s causing it, maybe I just haven’t driven for a long time, the controls are somehow better. These are my impressions.

this is what the front looks like now

Replacing front wheel bearings VAZ 2101-07

Problem: less than 2 years later, the bearing on one wheel began to hum, and on the second there was a slight crunching sound when braking. I will try to explain in detail but briefly and in pictures what and how. First, remove the wheel.

Removing the hub cap

We unscrew the caliper, not forgetting to bend the fixing plates of the bolts highlighted in yellow (and, by the way, be prepared to replace them - they often break).

And remove the hub assembly. It came off without any problems, but sometimes it gets stuck. It is better to knock it out through a block. In this photo, the working surface of the shaft is highlighted in yellow where the oil seal actually sits. I had a decent amount of wear in this place, as a result of which the oil seal quickly failed and water got inside during the season as a result and the bearing did not pass for a long time. By the way, this is also noticeable in the lubricant - it is brownish in color (the presence of rust).

The axis is relative, the road is 700 - 800 rubles. Therefore, I take a new oil seal, remove the spring and cut it about a centimeter from the side where it is widely highlighted in yellow in the photo. I screw the spring into the spring and put it on the oil seal. I think with such an oil seal it will be enough for a longer mileage.

We pry out the old oil seal with a large screwdriver or wrench, remove the spacer ring and pull out the inner race.

And using a mandrel or an unnecessary shaft, we knock out the outer race on one side and the other.

We clean out the old grease and use the old clip to drive in a new one. We only knock out the old one back.

We install the inner race and spacer washer and carefully hammer in the oil seal.

And fill it with lubricant. The ABC says Litol 24 Front wheel bearings 0.4 l Front wheel hub cap 0.25 l. We naturally wipe off the old grease from the axle and put on the hub, install the washer and tighten the nut with a little force.

We fasten the caliper without forgetting to bend the locking plates. We put the cap on lightly to prevent debris from getting in and screw the wheel on. Since the nut is tightened with little effort, we turn the wheel 90 degrees in one direction or the other so that the rollers find their place. Then loosen the nut until the wheel spins freely. We lower the car to the ground and, shaking the wheel, see if there is any play, i.e. We are trying to catch the moment so that the wheel rotates relatively freely and there is no play in the bearing. And we tighten the nut so that it does not unscrew.

We hammer in the cap and tighten the wheel completely. After a short break-in, we check again for the presence of play and, if necessary, make adjustments. In one bearing there were shells on the rollers, on the other, on the outer race, there was a scratch on the mirror, apparently some piece of metal had gotten into it. shavings. And the fastening of the hood pillar also broke, so we had to improvise. I cut out a metal plate, drilled holes and screwed it on.

I screwed the nuts from below in such a simple way.

Video about replacing wheel bearings for a VAZ classic

https://www.drive2.ru/l/6919354/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/7087225/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/4993033/

Ball joints VAZ 2101, 2106, 2107

Reinforced ball joints for VAZ 2106 - description Increasing the castor of the VAZ 2107 by moving the ball

Engine repair and tuning

Replacing the wheel bearing of a VAZ 2107

The chassis of the VAZ 2107, like all classic models, is not distinguished by its design complexity, but at the same time it fully complies with the somewhat inflated endurance requirements that road surfaces impose on us. The 7 has a reliable and simple wishbone suspension, but it does not last forever, and can remind you of itself from time to time with tapping and creaking.

Content:

Signs of a worn out bearing

We immediately pay attention to the knocking of the suspension and play in the steering, and try to find and neutralize the tired part as soon as possible. The front wheel bearing behaves completely differently. As a result of wear and tear, it does not immediately show its fatigue, but gradually. When turning right, the left wheel bearing begins to hum, and when turning left, vice versa.

It is quite possible that the bearing adjustment nut has become loose, but then the hum should be accompanied by a knocking sound. This can be easily determined by checking the play on the front wheel. To do this, hang the car on a jack and grab the wheel by the lower part and the upper part with your hands, then rock it. If there is play, then it will be enough to tighten the adjusting nut with a torque of 2 kg/cm and tighten it with a blunt chisel. If the hum continues after this, it means the bearing has worn out and needs to be replaced.

Removing the front hub of a VAZ 2107

Before starting work, place the car on a level surface, secure the rear wheels with wheel chocks and tighten the handbrake. After this, we jack up the front wheel with a jack, but it is advisable to place a stand under the lower arm after we remove the wheel. We loosen the jack, the bulk of the car falls on the stand, and now the car is securely fixed.

1. Using a blunt chisel or screwdriver, remove the hub protective cap.
2. Remove the front brake caliper. To do this you will need to remove the brake pads. We unpin the pad pin, take it out, and then you can use a pry bar or a large screwdriver to press the pistons into the caliper. After this, you can remove the brake pads.

3. The front brake caliper is attached to the axle with two bolts that need to be unscrewed. In order not to disconnect the caliper from the brake system, we hang it on a wire so that the brake hose is not stretched.

4. Let's move on to the hub. Using a 27mm socket, unscrew the hub adjustment and fastening nut. To avoid any surprises, let us remind you that the right wheel has a left-hand thread, and the left one has a right-hand thread. It's hard to confuse. Having oriented towards the cardinal points, unscrew the nut.
5. Remove the hub from the axle and place it on a horizontal surface.

Symptoms of a problem

The wheel bearing must always be in good condition. If the part becomes unusable, this can lead to an accident, since the malfunction is accompanied by large wheel play. As a result, the disc may be sheared off the wheel bolts. If such a situation occurs at high speed, a serious accident cannot be avoided. This indicates that the hub bearing needs periodic inspection, and if play is detected, it needs to be adjusted or replaced.

The main manifestations of a part malfunction are:

1. Dry crunch. When a bearing breaks, a metallic crunching sound occurs while driving. It appears as a result of uneven rolling of the rollers due to damage to the separator. It is difficult to confuse this sound with any other.
2. Vibration. If the element in question has severe wear, vibration appears, which is transmitted to both the body and the steering wheel. It indicates severe wear of the bearing cage, which can lead to seizure.
3. The car pulls to the side. The problem is somewhat reminiscent of the case with incorrect wheel alignment adjustment, since the faulty element does not work correctly due to its parts being wedged.

   
   When a bearing fails, extraneous noise, hum or crunching noise appears

Definition of failure

To determine the condition of the wheel bearing, you need to perform a few simple steps:

1. Hang the front wheel on the desired side using a jack, not forgetting to put the car on the handbrake and install stops under the rear wheels.
2. Place a support under the lower suspension arm and remove the car from the jack.
3. Take the wheel with both hands (top and bottom) and perform movements from yourself to yourself, and no play or knocking should be felt.
4. Spin the wheel. If the bearing has become unusable, a grinding noise, hum or other extraneous noise may appear.

   
   To check the bearing, you need to hang and rock the front wheel

When carrying out work with a removed wheel, for safety reasons, it is recommended to place an additional support under the car body, which will protect you in case of a sudden fall of the car.

Installing new bearings

1. We clamp it in a cleat. We take a new bearing race (ring) and push it into the housing. We use a flat board, a pry bar - any strong object with a flat surface.
2. We install it exactly, relative to the plane of the hub, so that it does not become distorted and fits exactly into the seat. From above, with light blows of a hammer, drive the ring as deep as possible through the pry bar. We try to tap evenly so that it fits evenly into the groove, without distortion.

To recess it all the way, you can use an old ring, using it as a mandrel. At the same time, you need to place it relative to the new holder with a larger diameter to make it easier to pull out. In addition, there are special soft metal rings of different diameters designed for pressing bearings.

If the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2107 is being replaced in the garage, but there is nothing similar at hand, then for complete pressing we use the tool that was used to remove the old races from the hub body. Also, carefully tapping along the entire perimeter of the ring, press it in until it stops.

1. For the outer bearing race, just use a block of wood. We insert it accurately into the body so that it does not warp, place a piece of wood on top and tap it with a hammer until it is completely installed in the seat. There is no need to use the old bearing ring here.
2. We generously lubricate the cages of new bearings with a special heat-resistant grease.

Litol-24 and solid oil are not suitable; they may not withstand high temperatures and become liquid and lose their lubricating properties. We apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hub housing. In the “Murzilka” for repairs they advise using Litol, but practice shows otherwise.

1. We insert the inner bearing into the race. We close it with a cuff with a locking ring. We evenly tap it on top through the spacer so that it fits into its seat without distortion.

1. We put the finished hub with the bearing on the steering knuckle axis and install the washer. We also apply lubricant before tightening the hub nut. After replacing the front wheel bearing, it is advisable to use new adjusting nuts, since the old ones will be difficult to lock.

1. Install the brake disc on the hub. Don't forget about the spacer ring (washer). We insert the guide pins through it, lubricating them with nigrol or “graphite”. We tighten them, pressing the caliper into the brake disc.

We adjust the free play of the wheel bearing, we will discuss how to do this correctly in the article: Wheel bearing play - causes of occurrence and adjustment of the wheel bearing of the VAZ 2107. We counter the nut, along its outer edges we carefully press the metal with a chisel opposite the grooves of the steering knuckle axis.

1. We collect grease into the protective cap and install it in place. We return the caliper with brake pads to the disc.

Video on how to change wheel bearings yourself:

What bearings to put

When a wheel bearing requires replacement, the question immediately arises of which part to install. Many people advise using original components. However, today the quality of parts leaves much to be desired and the issue of choice remains quite relevant.

Table: type, installation location, and size of bearings

Manufacturer's choice

When choosing a manufacturer of a wheel bearing for a VAZ “Seven”, we can recommend SKF , SNR, FAG, NTN, Koyo, INA, NSK. The companies listed have many locations around the world. These products are of high quality and meet the most stringent requirements.

The choice of bearing manufacturer should be given special attention, since the service life of the product depends on this

Among the domestic manufacturers that supply bearings for cars of the Togliatti plant, we can highlight:

• CJSC "LADA Image" - manufactures and sells original Lada wheel bearings through secondary markets;
• Saratov plant - produces parts under the SPZ brand;
• Volzhsky Plant - uses the Volzhsky Standard brand;
• Vologda plant - sells products under the VBF brand;
• Samara plant SPZ-9.

Diagnostics - causes and symptoms of malfunction

The condition of a wheel bearing is assessed based on a number of factors. The main signs of a node malfunction include:

1. noticeable wheel play;
2. hum, rustle, crunch from a spinning wheel;
3. the suspended axis rotates unevenly, there is wedging;
4. excessive heating of the disk;
5. increased noise when cornering.

The main reason for replacing a wheel bearing is due to normal wear and tear. The gap increases and eventually stops responding to adjustment.

How to check the wheel bearing of a VAZ-2107:

How to determine front wheel bearing wear:
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Other causes of failure:

1. wheel impacts;
2. technological violations during the previous replacement;
3. entry of foreign particles into the separator cavity (dust, dirt, metal shavings);
4. aggressive driving style.

If at least one malfunction is detected, it is necessary to replace the parts. Continued operation of the vehicle is dangerous.

Price of wheel bearing VAZ 2107

The cost of a VAZ 2107 wheel bearing repair kit (21010310180086), on average, is around 600 rubles. The kit includes a pair of bearings (internal and external), a pair of nuts (with right and left threads) and an oil seal. You can also find lubricant there, which should always be used before installing the bearing. The price of the hub itself without a bearing, number 21010310301582, will cost about 500 rubles, but then you need a separate bearing. If you take the hub assembly with bearing, article number - 21013103015, then it will cost the same as just the repair kit itself, within 600 rubles (though without lubricant and nuts).

Replacing the front wheel bearing

Work on replacing a wheel bearing begins with the preparation of tools and materials. You will need:

• set of socket wrenches;
• screwdriver;
• chisel;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• extension for knocking out the bearing race;
• new bearing, seal and lubricant;
• rags;
• kerosene.

How to remove

To dismantle the part, lift the front wheel using a jack. In a service station, work is carried out on a lift. When replacing a bearing, the following sequence of actions must be performed:

1. Unscrew the fasteners and remove the wheel.
2. Unscrew the fastening and dismantle the caliper.

To avoid damage to the brake hose after removing the caliper, the latter is carefully suspended and secured with wire.

How to put

After dismantling the wheel bearings and cleaning the hub itself, you can begin installing new parts. The work is performed in the following order:

Press in the races of both bearings.

Video: how to replace the front wheel bearings of a VAZ 2107

What to lubricate

Litol-24 is used to lubricate wheel bearing separators. It is also used to apply a new oil seal to the working edge during installation.

Bearing nut tightening torque

The need to tighten the hub nut arises after replacing the bearings or during their adjustment. The nut is tightened using a torque wrench to a torque of 9.6 Nm, while the hub is turned several times to install the bearings in place. Then loosen the nut and tighten it again, but with a torque of 6.8 Nm, after which it is locked in this position.

How to replace a wheel bearing on a VAZ 2106, 2107?

We determined that it was the wheel bearing that was faulty, bought a new one and are preparing the tools for the job:

1. Hammer
2. Pliers
3. Socket wrench set
4. Impact screwdriver (that you can hit without breaking)
5. Mandrel for pressing in new bearing races
6. Head 27 with a large collar (for the hub nut)

Removing the wheel bearing.

First of all, remove the cap covering the hub nut. Next, we align the rolled edges of the hub nut and unscrew it.

We hang the wheel and unscrew the brake caliper.

You can remove the hub along with the brake disc.

We take out the ring separating the seporators.

We take out the internal and external separators and knock out their clips.

We clean the hub from old grease and dirt.

Installing a new wheel bearing.

Installation occurs in the reverse order of removal.

Carefully through the mandrel (an old clip as a last resort), we press in new clips, having previously lubricated their walls with motor oil or lithol.

Install the separating ring.

We generously lubricate the internal separator with lithol, put it in place and close it with an oil seal. We fill the hub a little less than halfway with lithol and place it on the steering knuckle.

Lubricate the outer separator and put it in place.

Now tighten the hub nut, but not all the way. We install the brake caliper and screw the wheel.

When all the old parts have been replaced with new ones, you need to adjust

Repair of VAZ 2101, 2106, 2107 hub

Maintenance-free front hubs on VAZ 2107 (bushing drawing)

This time we will talk about maintenance-free front hub bearings. Having changed 3 bearings over the winter (sometimes they didn’t last, sometimes they overtightened them, sometimes they fell apart during maintenance), I got tired of all this, surfing the Internet and DRIVE came across articles about maintenance-free bearings on the front. There are several options: 1. Buy a ready-made kit. There are people who sharpen hubs and axles for them. 2. hub with axle from Izh od (also suitable) - I couldn’t find it 3. Rear hub from 08 VAZ + bearing also rear and + adapter sleeve - that’s what you need and in terms of cost.

hub with bearing

Since I didn't look carefully at the bearings? and bought an extra stopper, but they were in the box. Next, we will need classic wheel nuts, 08 ones will not fit, and the ring that presses the bearing is also classic.

all assembled + bushings

made the bushings according to the drawings

3,1

The first time I did it according to the first one, I’ll say right away it was in vain, the size 22 was not the topic and during installation the bushing swelled while I was inserting it. but more on that later.

here is my modified drawing

So we collect all this and happily go to the garage (well, that’s how it was for me), we begin to take everything apart

Having unscrewed the nut and the caliper, I had the first problem: I bent the brake disc (I don’t know how, but I did, I realized this when I was putting everything back together after the second problem), so I knocked over the old hub with the dead bearings, we start assembling it and now it’s not a problem, there’s an error in size, no Well, it’s okay and you can knock it out, and in the end I put everything back in the car in the garage and we’re waiting for it to be re-sharpened...

this is how it was inflated due to the wrong size, after measuring the axle, I changed the dimensions

Finally, they machined the bushings for me, and I, happy, flew to the garage to finish it... Since everything was put back in place temporarily, we disassemble everything: we remove the caliper, peel off the brake disc, knock off the hub (I’ll tell you right away that everything came off quickly on the left side, but on the right I had to suffer.) When everything was removed and wiped clean of fuel oil and grease, we put it back together.

I figured it wasn't bad

We put the bushing on the axle, now everything is easy to install

now with the hub

Install the second part of the bushing

Well, a washer with a nut (the nut and washer are original - classic)

Now everything needs to be tightened. I pulled it with a ratchet and then, using a piece of a meter-long pipe, tightened it with force. I don't have a torque wrench, and I don't need one yet.

I almost forgot about the disks

I bought these on occasion for only 1500 for 2, and they look better, and are not much more expensive than the original 600 rubles pieces. I assembled the left side - let's move on to the right. There was a little dance with a tambourine, a vdshka, a sledgehammer, and everything flew off (of course, I removed the caliper). In general, the hub, together with the disk, flew off.

We assemble it, tighten it in the same way, and test drive... Result: it steers better, rolls better, less noise. I really don’t know what’s causing it, maybe I just haven’t driven for a long time, the controls are somehow better. These are my impressions.

this is what the front looks like now

Replacing front wheel bearings VAZ 2101-07

Problem: less than 2 years later, the bearing on one wheel began to hum, and on the second there was a slight crunching sound when braking. I will try to explain in detail but briefly and in pictures what and how. First, remove the wheel.

Removing the hub cap

We unscrew the caliper, not forgetting to bend the fixing plates of the bolts highlighted in yellow (and, by the way, be prepared to replace them - they often break).

And remove the hub assembly. It came off without any problems, but sometimes it gets stuck. It is better to knock it out through a block. In this photo, the working surface of the shaft is highlighted in yellow where the oil seal actually sits. I had a decent amount of wear in this place, as a result of which the oil seal quickly failed and water got inside during the season as a result and the bearing did not pass for a long time. By the way, this is also noticeable in the lubricant - it is brownish in color (the presence of rust).

The axis is relative, the road is 700 - 800 rubles. Therefore, I take a new oil seal, remove the spring and cut it about a centimeter from the side where it is widely highlighted in yellow in the photo. I screw the spring into the spring and put it on the oil seal. I think with such an oil seal it will be enough for a longer mileage.

We pry out the old oil seal with a large screwdriver or wrench, remove the spacer ring and pull out the inner race.

And using a mandrel or an unnecessary shaft, we knock out the outer race on one side and the other.

We clean out the old grease and use the old clip to drive in a new one. We only knock out the old one back.

We install the inner race and spacer washer and carefully hammer in the oil seal.

And fill it with lubricant. The ABC says Litol 24 Front wheel bearings 0.4 l Front wheel hub cap 0.25 l. We naturally wipe off the old grease from the axle and put on the hub, install the washer and tighten the nut with a little force.

We fasten the caliper without forgetting to bend the locking plates. We put the cap on lightly to prevent debris from getting in and screw the wheel on. Since the nut is tightened with little effort, we turn the wheel 90 degrees in one direction or the other so that the rollers find their place. Then loosen the nut until the wheel spins freely. We lower the car to the ground and, shaking the wheel, see if there is any play, i.e. We are trying to catch the moment so that the wheel rotates relatively freely and there is no play in the bearing. And we tighten the nut so that it does not unscrew.

We hammer in the cap and tighten the wheel completely. After a short break-in, we check again for the presence of play and, if necessary, make adjustments. In one bearing there were shells on the rollers, on the other, on the outer race, there was a scratch on the mirror, apparently some piece of metal had gotten into it. shavings. And the fastening of the hood pillar also broke, so we had to improvise. I cut out a metal plate, drilled holes and screwed it on.

I screwed the nuts from below in such a simple way.

Video about replacing wheel bearings for a VAZ classic

https://www.drive2.ru/l/6919354/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/7087225/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/4993033/

Replacing balls

8. If the finger rotates, clamp the lever using a pry bar. 9. Unscrew the fastening of the ball joint to the upper

The procedure for replacing the front wheel bearing on a VAZ classic model

If you begin to hear the hum of the wheel bearing while driving, you need to replace it. To get to the bearing, the front wheel is removed, the hub of which will be replaced. Then the steering wheel is turned towards the removed wheel. This is necessary to spread the brake pads, which is most conveniently done with a long-handled hammer. After spreading the pads, the caliper is unscrewed and moved to the side, and the steering wheel is leveled.

The cap on the central nut is removed with a special device, and if it is not there, with a screwdriver or chisel, lightly tapping it with a hammer. To check the front wheel bearing, you can spin the race again, and you should hear a distinct noise.

The central nut of the hub is unscrewed, for which you will need a 27 wrench, after which it can be easily removed. To dismantle the bearing, the front hub is placed on a flat surface, after which the inner part is knocked out with a tool. The seat is cleaned and new lubricant is applied. Next, the bearing races are knocked out in a circle so as not to damage the hub. Please note that the oil seal does not sit too deep; there is a thrust ring behind the cage.

Installation begins with the inner race of the new bearing, which is installed in the seat and carefully hammered into place. To bring it into place, we use an old clip, which we put on top. We install the outer clip in the same way; the old clips are carefully removed, serving as auxiliary devices.

Litol-24 grease is filled into the hub from the inside, and the bearing itself is lubricated with it, after which it is placed in the seat, with the cone down, when viewed from the side of the inner race. Then the support ring is installed, this is done with little effort. Next, we attach the oil seal and hammer it in a circle so that it becomes flush with the hub.

The same grease is used to lubricate the outer part of the hub and the bearing, which we carefully install into the seat. Next, the hub is installed; to do this, carefully wipe the axle so that metal shavings or scale do not accumulate in the channel.

We put the hub in place, wipe it, and put the washer on and tighten the nut. Please note that the kit includes two nuts. On the right side there is a left-sided one, on the edges of which there are marks. On the right side, which goes to the left side, there are no such marks. When installing, the nut is initially not fully tightened, after which we reinstall the brake caliper and wheel.

When adjusting, the hub nut is tightened until it stops and then loosened slightly. When the wheel rotates, no extraneous noise should be heard or play should be observed in any of the planes. If the wheel makes about two and a half turns, the nut is tightened normally. To prevent the nut from unscrewing, it needs to be capped. Litol-24 is filled into the protective cap before installation; it is seated in place with light blows of a hammer through a special clip, which can be used as a suitable piece of pipe. After this, the wheel nuts are finally tightened.

Bearing Failure Determination

Some recommendations will help you make sure that you need to replace the wheel bearing on your VAZ 2107:

• The easiest way to determine the need to replace the hub unit is to grab the front wheel and wiggle it in different planes. If you feel the presence of play, then it’s time for a more detailed diagnosis and most likely replacing the bearings.
• The front wheels of the car should be hung on a jack, while being sure to take precautions: pull the handbrake, install shoes and additional stands under the car. Grasp the top and bottom of the front wheel with your hands and then make movements. It is important to wobble the wheel, and not the car as a whole. Thus, you can accurately determine whether the product in question needs to be replaced.
• Another way to determine the need for replacement is to listen for humming, knocking, and grinding noises in the wheel as it rotates.

Having decided that you really need to replace the VAZ 2107 wheel bearing, you need to purchase new products and begin the replacement workflow.