Motorists are well aware of such an important device of the car as the air conditioning compressor. With its advent, drivers no longer need to waste time opening windows and ventilating the car interior. All useful things have one unnecessary property - they periodically break down and confuse the owner with the question “How to fix it?” Is it possible to bring an air conditioner back to life without the help of appropriate service services? How to repair an air conditioning compressor yourself? Let's try to figure it out and draw up an action plan for repairing this unit.
A distinctive feature of the air conditioning compressor is the principle of its operation. It uses engine power as fuel, which comes from the crankshaft through the steering wheel. For the successful operation of the air conditioner, it is necessary that many parts of the system are in good working order: the compressor for the air conditioner, the fan, the receiver-dryer, the evaporator, etc. The refrigerant passed through the evaporator continues its movement into the compressor, the circle is closed and the movement begins again.
Common causes of air conditioner breakdowns
The main part of the load during operation of the cooling system goes to the compressor. Therefore, most often it is he who fails. Its timely repair and preventive actions will save you from the need to save money for a new part. If the air conditioning compressor does not turn on, there may be two reasons for this breakdown. The air conditioner may operate intermittently either due to a compressor failure or due to a faulty clutch. In this case, it is possible to repair the air conditioning compressor yourself.
- Flushing its internal parts will help extend the life of the compressor. It is better to use carbon tetrachloride or freons R-113, R-11. We remove excess refrigerant and carry out the procedure until the liquid becomes clear. A mixture of liquid and oil in a ratio of 50:50 is poured into the air conditioning compressor. We put it into working condition for 20 minutes.
- Fill the purified conditioner with oil. Due to the active absorption of air particles by the oil, which can lead to the loss of its important properties, the interaction time is reduced to a minimum. After refueling, for preventive purposes, we bleed the compressor with refrigerant or nitrogen and close its pipes.
Replacement
To replace it, you will need to remove the generator from the car and some plumbing tools. It would also be a good idea to have a generator bearing puller. Having all the necessary tools, you can handle the job with basic mechanical knowledge.
Puller
The puller greatly facilitates bearing replacement work, saving time, effort and nerves. This device is a faithful assistant not only when working with a generator, but also with other car parts.
It consists of claws and a thrust bolt. There are a large number of different pullers, they are: two-jaw and three-jaw. In our case, when working with a VAZ 2110 generator, it is best to use a two-jaw one; it is the most compact and convenient to dismantle the bearing.
Its cost varies from 200 to 1000 rubles, depending on the quality of the part.
Necessary tool
The tools you will need to complete the work are presented below:
- Ratchet;
- 13mm, 10mm key;
- 21mm head;
- 8 mm hexagon;
- Gas key;
- Powerful screwdriver “+”;
- Hammer;
- Puller;
- Punch;
- WD-40 (lubricant)
- Rags;
- Marker;
Stages of work
1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. We unscrew the wires on the generator with a 10mm wrench and remove the generator excitation chip.
2. Remove the generator from the car. To do this, unscrew the generator belt tension bolt and remove the belt, unscrew the generator from the mounts and remove it from the car. Be careful not to lose the rubber bushing and washers when removing the lower mounting bolt.
3. Let's start disassembling. Remove the plastic cover of the diode bridge by bending the three latches. Unscrew the two screws securing the brushes to the body and disconnect the connector from the brushes. We mark the alignment of the covers with a marker so that in the future we can assemble everything correctly.
4. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screws of the ends of the generator winding from the diode bridge and bend them. Unscrew the screw securing the capacitor and separate the diode bridge from the generator.
5. Unscrew the generator pulley with a 21 mm socket, holding it with a gas wrench and holding the rotor shaft with an 8 mm hexagon. We take out the generator pulley and thrust washer.
6. Unscrew the 4 bolts of the cover and remove it along with the stator winding.
7. Remove the back cover by pressing the manifold with your fingers and pull the cover towards you, remove the plastic bearing bushing.
8. Remove the bearings using a puller.
We assemble the generator in the reverse order.
Diagnosing the electromagnetic clutch
Self-repair of the air conditioning compressor can also be done to repair the electromagnetic clutch. Inspection of this part includes checking for the presence of lubricant on the rotor and pressure plate. The clutch bearing must be free of lubricant leaks. Use a meter to determine the coil resistance. The coil resistance should vary between 3.15-3.45 at t 20 C. If the indicator is non-standard, it must be replaced with a new part. The last step is to measure the gap between the pulley and the clutch disc. If it deviates from the norm, the magnetic field will not be able to press the coupling to the pulley. The range should be between 0.35-0.65 mm.
Preventive inspection and replacement of the drive pulley bearing
If you hear a noise in the bowels of the car when operating the compressor, it means it’s time to inspect the bearing. Noises of unknown origin may also appear when the air conditioner is not working, when the shaft is idling. The car may hum due to a tightened drive belt, or due to complete wear of the air conditioning compressor bearing after its service life has expired.
The first step towards correcting this problem will be to check the main elements of this system, including inspecting the air conditioning compressor pulley. Carefully inspect the shaft drive belt. After stopping the engine, turn off the electromagnetic clutch, then turn the shaft. The hand force when turning should be noticeable. If the turn is tighter than usual, loosen the belt. In case of repeated failure, we replace the shaft bearing.
REPLACING THE AIR CONDITIONER PULLEY BEARING ON PRIOR!
HAVE QUESTIONS? ASK! I WILL ANSWER. Video Rating: 5 / 5
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19 Comments Already
Did you even remove the pulley with the viscous coupling? what condition is the bearing in? Is the retaining ring coming off? and also check how the electromagnet coil is holding! Pay attention on my video where exactly this washer is located!
AND THE WASH SHOULD BE IN LOVE WITH THE BASK.
Someday I’ll climb in and have a look again about the washer, it seemed to me that it looked like a washer on the shaft, but no matter how much I tried to unfasten it I couldn’t, I still decided that it wasn’t a washer. Now I'm racking my brain, if there is no washer, how to reduce the gap
I'll do this in the near future. I'll write what and how.
The control unit is similar to HALLA
firstly... try the engine without a drive belt and a generator! make sure the timing belt has nothing to do with it! and secondly on. ......the exact dimensions for you—NSK A32 30BD5222DUM6! And the VIN has nothing to do with it! just by bearing brand! but also check that the bearings in the generator are normal... I just changed them there soon too! sizes 6302 - front and 6202 - rear!
WHAT A CONDITION. CHALLAH? OR PANASONIC. LIKE PANASONIC……. YES?
not with a chisel, but through a brass insert along the inner ring of the bearing. The main thing is to choose a stop slightly larger than the outer diameter of the bearing itself. otherwise you can split the pulley itself!
Handsome! I was already thinking about stopping at the service station, I had already asked how much to fill the air conditioner... and here is this video)) nothing complicated. I just have a question: on the inside of the pulley - how did you wrap it along the outer diameter of the bearing?
By the way... I ordered a bearing in the “foreign cars” department just according to the dimensions.
Yes, just remove the pulley (about an hour) and check the markings! There are no mistakes in mine! because I have already ordered the bearing 3 times within a year! If you find out, unsubscribe!
Hello MsGekar. I have a problem, but it's a little different. The clutch gap is large. I've been looking around in the compressor and can't find the washer. As a result, I don’t know how to reduce the gap. The gap is kind of strange. At first it is about 2mm, so the clutch does not turn on, when I hit it with a hammer the clutch turns on. When disconnected, the coupling is disconnected to the required distance of less than 1mm, but somehow later the gap becomes larger again Video on Youtube. “Lada Priora: the air conditioning compressor clutch does not work”
Thank you very much! I've already removed the alternator belt and the noise goes away immediately. The generator is good, but the air conditioner is noisy, especially when turned on. The sound is as if something is growling or touching the timing belt area. I drove around and called stations, they don’t know of such a problem anywhere. They offer to come and disassemble and look at the bearing - which I can do myself. The only problem is that I can’t find a bearing of the same brand as yours. Everywhere they say: you are mistaken, the air conditioner requires 35BD5222 and everyone has it. (300-1000 rub.)
BY THE WAY …. I CHANGED THE BEARINGS ON THE GENERATOR...(WITH CONDITION) WITHOUT DRAINING THE COOLER... 4 HOURS OF WORK.
thank you... as I understand it, you knocked out the outer race of the bearing itself with a chisel from the inside? or some kind of puller?
Hello. I have the following problem: A rumble appeared in the timing belt area on a cold engine, now it growls at any temperature. I am sure that the sound is coming from the air conditioner drive bearing (Holla). Based on the data from your video, I visited all the stores in Saratov, but could not find a bearing with these dimensions. In stores for foreign cars they require a VIN code. Please tell me more specifically which foreign car, with what VIN code and dimensions the bearing for HOLLA is needed. I will be very grateful, thank you.
Replacing the air conditioning compressor oil seal
Very often such an important part as the air conditioning compressor oil seal fails. Being on the opposite side of the shaft, it suffers from overheating during operation. To replace it, remove the compressor and drain the refrigerant. Use a puller to remove it from the coupling, and use two paws to remove it from the pulley and magnet. Remove excess oil and dirt.
Remove the seal retaining ring. We place the device for removing the shaft on the compressor shaft and, by moving the toe inward, touch the shaft seal with the seal. We rotate the handle clockwise and remove the oil seal using an auxiliary device. We make a replacement and return the part to its original place.
How to tension the alternator belt
When checking whether the belt is tensioned on a Priora car, keep in mind that marks are applied to the camshaft pulleys. Rotate the crankshaft until the marks on the camshaft pulleys coincide with the cutouts on the reverse side of the drive.
With normal timing tension, the protrusion of the inner sleeve of the tensioner pulley should coincide with the opening of the outer race. If the belt is in good condition and the marks do not match 1/2 of the reach width, the tension should be adjusted.
- Loosen the bolt holding the tension roller.
- Make sure the cutout of the roller aligns exactly with the protrusion on the back of the roller bushing.
- Using wrench 15, tighten the tensioner pulley bolt.
- Simply put, to tension the belt, the generator roller needs to be turned in the opposite direction clockwise.
Radiator repair
Interruptions in the operation of air conditioning may be due to the fact that various debris has filled the insides of the radiator. This may result in more serious vehicle performance problems. We solve the problem simply - clean and wash the radiator. Before working on external cleaning, remove it. If this action cannot be done, we work extremely collectedly and carefully.
A good cleaning option is compression blowing with compressed air. A replacement for this procedure will be good water pressure with the addition of various chemicals. If the coolant contains contaminants, we completely flush the radiator. Pour the cleaning agent into the car and run the engine for 15-20 minutes. Drain the water and flush the cooling system three times with distilled water.
- When preventing the operation of the radiator, you should carefully inspect it for cracks and other damage. There are several simple and emergency methods to get rid of this problem. For example: adding raw egg or mustard powder inside. Workers at auto chemical plants suggest using products such as sealant powders or special solutions to bring the radiator back to life.
- A good way to repair a radiator if you have the necessary parts is “cold welding”. Required welder's kit: cold welding, sandpaper, acetone or pure gasoline. We clean the surface with paper and create artificial unevenness. Next, treat the area with gasoline or acetone. Carefully read the instructions for using cold cooking. At the end of it, we wait a certain amount of time, depending on some factors. The sealed connection is ready.
Some types of air conditioning compressor breakdowns were presented above. And DIY methods for repairing them. Timely preventive maintenance of the compressor will extend its service life and prevent you from wasting time and money.
There are a number of simple rules that will help when using the air conditioning system:
- If the air conditioning is on, it is necessary that all windows in the car remain closed.
- Always ventilate the interior before operating the air conditioning compressor. Stale air passing through the air conditioner causes the wrong effect.
- To avoid fogging up the windows when operating the air conditioner, do not forget to turn on the heater.
- Conduct a daily assessment of the condition of the window on the receiver-dryer.
- Get rid of dust as it accumulates, do not delay cleaning and cleaning the car interior.
Take the time to inspect and repair your vehicle, and don't be afraid to repair parts yourself.
Generator bearings Lada Priora: diagnostics and signs of malfunction, causes
The following circumstances may indicate that it is necessary to replace the generator bearing:
- extraneous noises during startup, possible humming or whistling;
- interruptions in the operation of the vehicle’s electrical equipment;
- constant insufficient battery charge;
- uneven shaft rotation, distinct runout.
You can diagnose the malfunction as follows:
- remove the belt;
- start the engine and listen carefully. If nothing buzzes, then the sound came from the ball bearing;
- move the pulley. If there is play, it must be replaced.
These videos will help you understand the diagnostic procedure:
The Priora generator bearing is noisy:
Whistling in the electric generator and overheating:
How the electric generator hums:
How to check generator bearings:
Where is the generator located at Priora - the device of the VAZ 2170 unit
The unit itself for a car with air conditioning (or power steering) looks like this:
- Drive pulley for additional elements;
- Tension roller;
- Mounting the right side of the engine;
- Electric generator pulley;
- Air conditioning blower pulley.
If a VAZ Priora without air conditioning (or without power steering), the configuration changes slightly and looks like this.
During disassembly, you will have to disconnect the belt and remove the engine protection. The belt tensioner will need to be replaced. There is also the option of dismantling the part through the car headlight. Below we will describe in detail how to change bearings in a generator, including the process of dismantling, disassembling the electric generator itself, and installing new elements.
When to change a bearing
The core of the problem lies in the fact that the compressor pulley bearing is engaged all the time when the engine is on, regardless of whether the air conditioning is on or not. Even in winter, when you hardly turn on the air conditioner, the pulley bearing performs its function. Failure can occur naturally due to aging. The bearing lubricant thickens and during operation it becomes very hot. Excessive tension on the drive belt also contributes to failure.
The consequences of its failure can be the most unpleasant. When an air conditioning compressor bearing becomes wedged, its seat may be “eaten up,” which will ultimately lead to the need to replace the entire air conditioning compressor or its front half, which is very unpleasant financially. The next step in a possible series of troubles may be a rupture of the air conditioning compressor pulley drive belt and the infliction of severe “injury” by this belt on the electrical wiring and other engine components located in the engine compartment.
Video “How to replace a car air conditioning compressor bearing”
This video shows how professionals replace a car air conditioning compressor bearing.
Lots and lots of modern details already fill the precious Priora. But the most important thing is the irreplaceable Panasonic Priora air conditioner. But many have little budget and cannot afford the Priora equipment above the basic one. And the basic one, alas, is not equipped with air conditioning. And in this case, an excellent solution was found. You can buy a basic Priora and simply install the air conditioner yourself later.
Read about what kind of air conditioner is installed on a Priora, how it is installed, and where it can be installed.
Step by step replacement
Let's consider the replacement sequence. The first step is to remove the compressor from the car. There may be slight differences on different models and brands of cars, but the general sequence is approximately the same everywhere. For this purpose, we place the car in the “pit”, and if this is not possible, we jack up the front of the car from the compressor side and remove the wheel.
Don’t forget, to avoid the car falling off the jack, place something suitable under the body in the suspension area. I do not recommend placing stops under the thresholds; they wrinkle very easily. Then unscrew the bolts securing the compressor. Usually there are four of them, but on some car models there may be three. It is possible that the generator will interfere with this procedure. Then it is better to remove it first for ease of work.
The next step is to unscrew the fastening nut of the electromagnetic clutch pressure disk and remove it. Having removed the pressure disk, we will see a retaining ring holding the pulley with the bearing. It can be removed quite easily, after which you can remove the pulley itself, and then proceed to replace the pulley bearing.
As you noticed, we did not remove freon from the air conditioning system. This is possible in cases where the pulley can be removed without disconnecting the compressor from the system. However, the engine compartment of modern cars is so tightly packed that this is not always possible. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that the next step after unscrewing the compressor mounting bolts will be the removal of freon.
Lada Priora Hatchback › Logbook › Replacing generator and belt bearings
Hello everyone, it all started with the appearance of a hum when starting it cold, when it warmed up the hum subsided. But in any case, you shouldn’t delay repairing the genes, since a worn bearing can jam. Depending on the year of manufacture, the generator can be old or new. The only difference is in the diameter of the shaft, the old one is 15mm, the new one is 17mm. For a shaft with a diameter of 15mm you need bearing number 302. For a shaft with a diameter of 17mm you need bearing number 303. The rear bearing for all generators is the same with number 202
I waited for warm weather, started to eliminate the hum, opened the hood, took off the belt and started it, the hum disappeared. It was not easy to remove the gene, since the car is with Conder. It’s better not to climb without such a set))
I took it off from my guy for the duration of the repair, I removed it for the first time at the Prior, so I took it off for about three hours, first we unscrew the air conditioner compressor and move it to the side, and we unscrew the gene along with its fastening to the block, so the fastening will not allow the gene to be pulled out from the bottom, with in reverse order. And I put it in place in just 40 minutes.
Here he took off the plastic cover
We clamp the pulley in a vice through the rubber gaskets (so as not to damage it) and unscrew the pulley nut (24 head), then mark the relative positions of the generator covers, unscrew the four coupling screws, they are tightened well, and are made of fairly soft metal, so we unscrew them either with an impact screwdriver , or an ordinary Phillips, but with a large tip, the voltage regulator (brushes) is still in good condition
took it apart
pressed out the bearings this way
the bearings were dry pressed in like this (the old bearing was used as a mandrel
collected it
I bought a strap and it fit perfectly.
I also installed a new tension pulley, now it’s quiet and calm under the hood)