Replacing the rear wheel wheel bearing

The rear wheel bearing in the Lada Granta model, as in any other car, is a very important component of the chassis. It is designed to allow the wheel to rotate in the appropriate manner. In operation, the rear hub bearing absorbs increased loads, which requires the use of high-strength materials for its production. Despite this fact, the product still fails over time. The timeliness of replacement is also quite important, as may be indicated by characteristic signs that appear.

What are the signs of a bearing failure?

Incorrect operation of the component we are considering is characterized by the presence of certain symptoms.

Next, let's look at the most common signs.

1. Manifestation of vibration on a moving Lada Granta car. This factor can be felt both from the steering wheel and spread around the perimeter of the entire body. This circumstance indicates an urgent need to diagnose the bearing, followed by replacement of the faulty unit.
2. A specific “howl” or hum, accompanied by crunching sounds while the Lada Granta is moving. These types of symptoms may indicate the presence of mechanical damage or dangerous partial failure of the bearing.

What are the causes of the malfunction?

Below are two common reasons why a rear wheel bearing may fail.

1. The element loses its tightness. The product body contains a certain amount of lubricant, which reduces the friction of mutually contacting parts. The lubricant is retained by means of plastic housings with rubber seals present. These materials tend to degrade over time, causing loss of lubricant.
2. Large output due to the impressive mileage of the Lada Grant. In any case, even the most highly durable product in a car becomes unusable over time. Each detail has its own resource. For a bearing, this figure is at around 60 thousand km. Sometimes this chassis component shows signs of malfunction much earlier. This occurs during operating modes that involve driving over potholes and other off-road conditions.

Causes of wheel bearing failure

It is also important to note that if the hub fails, it becomes very hot. As a result, the brake system fails, and therefore operation is disrupted

However, the work is never disrupted at the same time, unless there is a strong collision with another object. The car may hit a hole, a bump, or drive onto a curb. As a result, the VAZ 2114 may receive serious mechanical damage.

Destruction occurs gradually and the driver can often understand this by the presence of a specific sound when a specific body vibration appears. There may be small shocks, sometimes the car shakes.

There are several reasons why a malfunction may occur:

1. Constant driving on off-road or poor quality roads with a lot of uneven surfaces.
2. Transportation of large loads.
3. The car may constantly fall into mud or slush.
4. Some drivers begin to drive aggressively: they brake or accelerate sharply, or drift.

Depending on what cause is present, deformation of the main housing may occur over time, and sometimes the outer housing and bearing rim may crack. Often the lubricant dries out. Dirt, sand, and dust may get inside the rotating parts.

Sometimes there is a malfunction of the rollers and bearing balls. Often this happens not as a result of inaccurate driving, but from the quality of workmanship itself. Spare parts from domestic or European manufacturers last an order of magnitude longer than from Chinese ones. But they can also become unusable over time as a result of constant use of the car.

When a breakdown just begins to appear, it is almost impossible to recognize it in a timely manner. As a rule, for this purpose you need special diagnostic equipment, which is available in auto repair shops or official dealers. If a whistle, strong hum or crunching occurs, you have to provide it yourself or with professional help.

If the breakdown occurs on the front hub, then identifying the fault is much easier. It is enough to pick up a speed of 40-60 km/h and perform simple maneuvers. Most often, a specific hum appears. If the sound increases when turning to the right, this means that the left bearing has failed. The opposite situation occurs with the left side.

If a breakdown occurs in the rear hub, it is much more difficult. So, for example, the sound may come from one part, but in reality the breakdown may be localized in a completely different place.

How to replace a bearing in a Lada Grant?

Replacing the rear wheel bearing will require the following tools:

• a special puller designed for hubs;
• chisels paired with a hammer;
• puller for removing retaining rings;
• “30” size heads;
• vice;
• a device that allows you to press out and reinstall the bearing;
• flat-profile screwdriver.

Let's get to work.

1. Remove the decorative protective cap from the rear wheel of the Lada Granta.
2. Set the transmission lever to the position corresponding to 1st gear.
3. We put stops on the front wheels to prevent spontaneous rolling.
4. Loosen the nut that secures the hub itself. We use an extended wrench. We also “loose” the wheel bolts.
5. Using a jack, we hang up the side of the rear of the car from which the rear wheel bearing is supposed to be replaced.
6. We remove the wheel and dismantle the drum belonging to the brake unit of the LADA Granta car.
7. We “defeat” the hub nut and remove the thrust ring.
8. Armed with a puller, with special care we press the hub from its seat on the axle.
9. We clamp the removed hub using a vice. Don't forget to remove the retaining ring (with a puller).
10. Now we press the bearing. We clean the inner hub cavity with a brush.
11. We press in the new bearing and correctly fix the retaining ring. We control the correct fit of the element in the internal cavity of the hub in order to avoid distortion.
12. We install the hub. It is also a good idea to clean the brake assembly components from accumulated dirt and rust. Here we use a metal brush with soft bristles.
13. We return the drum to its place and put on the wheel.
14. We tighten the wheel fasteners and lower the hanging side of the car until the wheel touches the ground.
15. Tighten the central nut. We put on a decorative cap.
16. We tighten the wheel fasteners and start the LADA Granta engine. While moving, we check the quality of work. There should be no sound effects characteristic of a faulty bearing. If there are none, then the rear wheel bearing is replaced correctly.

Front wheel bearing replacement process

New wheel bearing Lada Kalina

To replace the front wheel bearing on a Lada Kalina, you will need certain tools, namely: a 30mm socket, a thin chisel, a wrapper, pliers for removing retaining rings, and mandrels.

Diagram of hub and steering knuckle parts

When the entire tool is assembled, you can proceed directly to the replacement process:

1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. We remove the wheel from the car.

View of the removed Kalina wheel

Removing the caliper and brake drum

View of the dismantled hub

Removed steering knuckle

Removed steering knuckle

Using a hammer and vice, press the hub from the steering knuckle

Wheel bearing on steering knuckle

Dismantling the hub bearing retaining ring

Press in the new wheel bearing

Pressed in new bearing

That's all, the bearing has been replaced, and it is necessary to carry out the same operations on the opposite side.

Spare part selection

The choice of bearing for Kalina should be treated carefully, since it is the quality of this product that will determine how well the front wheels rotate, as well as how the vertical play of the wheel is maintained. There are several options for purchasing a front wheel bearing for Kalina.

Original bearing

The original catalog number of the front wheel bearing is 1118-3103020. The average cost of a product is about 1,500 rubles. Its kit includes: bearing, tension nut and retaining ring. Manufactured by AvtoVAZ.

Analogs

Wheel bearing PILENGA

Both manufacturers have proven themselves quite well in the market and produce high-quality spare parts. The average cost of products is 1000 rubles. The equipment is standard and no different from AvtoVAZ.

As practice shows, wheel bearings from the VAZ-2108 are also suitable for Kalina, but there is a nuance, since they are several hundredths of a mm smaller. Therefore, experts do not recommend installing it, because there have been cases when it turned after installation.

Summarize

Now we can safely state that the replacement process is complete. As it turned out, the work did not cause any difficulties, but it did require stocking up on some special tools. Buy bearings for LADA Granta cars that are of only high quality and from trusted manufacturers in order to have confidence in your safety on the road.

A wheel bearing malfunction is a common failure during the operation of a technical device. The reason for premature wear is poor-quality road surface and aggressive driving style.

Front wheel bearing

Replacing a wheel bearing is done independently, without special equipment, experience, or skills. Subject to the availability of spare parts, the replacement process will take no more than an hour, without the cost of car service.

About replacement

What I want to say is to change the bearing correctly, it’s quite difficult to do it yourself.
You need at least a couple of pullers, as well as knowledge of the car's suspension. It’s not for nothing that many automakers change the entire wheel hub. When replacing it is important:

1) The bearing can be pressed in only with special, even races (ideally, use a housing from an old one). Press-fitting with “rolling bodies” is not allowed.

2) Avoid pressing with sharp tools, which may damage the O-ring, which will then lead to lubricant leakage.

3) When pressing, you need to maintain the correct gap and plane; distortions are not allowed. Incorrect clearance - misalignment will lead to rapid failure.

That's all, in conclusion I would like to say that I myself changed the wheel bearing a couple of times. In a garage environment, and even if you don’t have the skills, it’s very difficult to do this (you can ruin the new one), so it’s better not to waste money and give it to a proven station. Save your nerves, money and energy.

That's all, read our AUTOBLOG.

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The design of a car suspension is a rather complex technical unit. Its components are constantly being refined, changed and improved. But the wheel bearing has been and remains an invariable element of the suspension of any car. How to check an element and what are the reasons for its wear? The answers to these and many other questions are in our article today.

Where are the front and rear hubs on the Lada Grant? Description, purpose

The front hub joint is located on the front left (right) side of the axle shaft. The rear hinge is located in the rear left (right) suspension block.

The main purpose of the bearing is to firmly hold the hub and ensure wheel rotation. Structurally, the front (rear) hub consists of:

• outer and inner metal frame;
• a separator in which metal balls and rollers are located;
• insulating rings;
• special filler - graphite-based lubricant.

The device of the hub on the Lada Grant

Front

• rounded fist;
• external and internal dirt-reflective metal rings;
• front roller bearings;
• hub;
• washer;
• hub nut;
• retaining ring, plug.

Rear hub device

• hub mechanism axis;
• metal ball bearing;
• mud ring;
• retaining ring;
• washer;
• screw;
• sealing ring;
• rubber boot;
• hub cover.

Resource for replacing hub mechanism elements

The average service life of wheel joints is 80 – 85 thousand km. The indicator is average, as it depends on the following factors:

• quality of workmanship of the part;
• frequency of operation of the technical device;
• driving style;
• quality of road surface;
• aggressive environment;
• high operating temperatures;
• compliance with technical inspection intervals.

Signs that a hub needs to be replaced

• the appearance of uncharacteristic noise during wheel rotation;
• wheel runout in the steering column;
• vibrations at different speeds. Sometimes there is vibration at a certain speed;
• metallic grinding noise as the wheel rotates;
• front wheel hub play.

Diagnostics of the hub mechanism

1. We place the car on a level platform, squeeze the parking brake if we are checking the front row. For the rear, we install wheel chocks.
2. Let's jack up the front (rear) part.
3. We turn the car wheel and carry out troubleshooting.
4. We shake the wheel up and down with our hands. In good condition there should be no play. Otherwise, we dismantle and replace worn elements.

Preparatory stage before replacing the hub mechanism

Required materials and tools:

• hydraulic (mechanical) jack;
• wooden stand;
• wheel wrench;
• screwdriver with a flat, cross-shaped bit;
• hammer;
• knob, nozzles;
• spanners;
• stationary vice;
• chisel;
• two-jaw and cup pullers. The exact dimensions of the pullers are indicated in the operating instructions;
• forceps;
• metal brush;
• lubricant type “CV joint - 4”;
• rags;
• caliper for measuring diameter;
• new wheel bearings;
• additional lighting provided that the work is carried out in the dark.

Replacing the front hub of Lada Granta

1. We place the car within the perimeter of the repair area and provide priority safety measures.
2. Let's jack up the right (left) side.
3. Unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel.
4. Let's unlock the hub.
5. On the back side, unscrew the two bolts that guide the brake caliper.

Location of two bolts

1. We remove the caliper, hang it on a wire (we fix it on the steering tip).

1. Unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc.

Removing the hub nut

1. We unscrew the two bolts - the rack clamps. If necessary, we use a liquid to remove deposits like WD-40.

1. Disconnect the strut with the steering knuckle and unscrew the ball joint fasteners.
2. We remove the CV joint.

Next, install the new hub assembly and assemble the structure in the reverse order.

Replacing the front wheel bearing of Lada Granta

1. The front hub joint is located in the steering knuckle housing, remove it. Pre-clamp the structure in a stationary vice.
2. We install the metal spacer - the head at “22” on the surface of the hub. We apply targeted blows with a hammer to press it out.

1. We disconnect the inner race of the hinge and remove the separator with metal balls.

1. To remove the outer part of the hinge, use pliers and remove the retaining rings.

1. To dismantle the inner part of the cage we use a chisel. Gently tap with a hammer. Press-out puller
2. Use a puller to press out the axle shafts.

Pressing in a new wheel bearing and assembling the unit

1. We clean the surface from dirt, deposits, and rust. We remove the old grease from the hub and wipe it with a rag. We measure the diameter of the hub, it should be 35 mm.
2. Apply a thin layer of graphite grease to the surface. Press in the new bearing.

1. We press the hinge until the retaining ring comes into contact with the edge of the part.
2. We insert the hub into the hole using a vice.

Prices for diagnostics, repair and maintenance of Lada Granta

TYPE OF WORK	DESCRIPTION	PRICE
Chassis (suspension) diagnostics	500r
Computer diagnostics	700rub
Car engine diagnostics	500r
Pre-sale diagnostics	1000 – 2000 rub.
Changing engine oil	Replacing oil filter + oil	500r
Oil change 1 cat	Castrol oil 5w-40+or filter+sl. count	2300rub
Oil change 2cat	Oil Esso 10w-40 +or filter+sl. count	1500rub
Replacing the air filter	200rub
Replacing the air filter	Work+filter(orig)	900rub
Replacing the cabin filter	300rub
Replacing the cabin filter	Work+filter(orig)	1000r
Replacing front brake pads	700rub
Replacing front brake discs	discs+pads	1500rub
Replacing rear brake pads	700rub
Replacing rear brake discs	discs+pads	1500rub
Replacing brake fluid	without liquid	1000r
Caliper Maintenance	installing a repair kit behind the axle	1200rub
Replacing the abs block	with pumping	2500rub
Replacing the master brake cylinder	1000r
Wheel alignment (wheel alignment)	computer wheel alignment price per axle	1000r
Replacing bushings in front of the stabilizer	for a couple	800rub
Replacing rear stabilizer bushings	for a couple	800rub
Replacing front stabilizer struts	for a couple	1000r
Replacement of rear stabilizer struts	for a couple	1000r
Replacing front shock absorbers	for one	1200rub
Replacing rear shock absorbers	for one	1500rub
Replacing front lower control arms	for one	1200rub
Replacing ball joints	for one	900rub
Replacing the steering tip	for one	600rub
Replacing the steering rod	for one	1000r
Replacing the front wheel bearing	for one	2500rub
Rear hub replacement	for one	1400rub
Replacing power steering fluid	full	1000r
Replacing the drive (CV joint) of a manual transmission	assembled 1.6-1.8/2.0	1200/1500rub
Replacing the drive (CV joint) of the automatic transmission	assembled 1.6 1.8/2.0	600/900rub
Manual transmission oil change	600rub
Changing the automatic transmission oil	without filter/with filter	1000r/from 2500r
Clutch replacement	or with manual transmission	from 6000r
Automatic transmission replacement	work without materials	from 10000r
Replacing spark plugs	for one	from 200r
Complete antifreeze replacement	radiator+block	from 1000r
Flushing the radiator	with removal + antifreeze	2500rub
Replacing the cooling radiator	with antifreeze	2500rub
Flushing the throttle valve	from 1500r
Injector flushing	from 1600r
Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal	1500rub
Replacing the air conditioner radiator	from 3000r
Replacing the rear engine support	from 1500r
Replacing the front engine support	from 1500r
Replacing the drive belt	from 500r
Replacing the drive belt with roller	2000rub
Replacing the headlight bulb	c/o headlights for one	1000r
Replacing the air conditioning compressor	2000rub
Front fender liners	for one	1200rub
Decor for thresholds.	for one	1000r
Side glass	1000r
Bumper painting	from 6000 rub*
Front fender painting	from 5000rub*
Painting the door	from 7000 rub*
Hood painting	from 10000rub*
Roof painting	from 10000rub*
Rear fender painting	from 6000 rub*
Removing dents without painting	from 300 rub*
Soldering plastic parts	from 300 rub*
Installation of additional equipment	from 1000 rub*

*-The cost is given taking into account: removal/installation, disassembly/assembly, all materials, but excluding the specifics of body work.

Replacing the rear wheel bearing of a Lada Granta with your own hands

Note to the driver. Before starting installation work, clean the surface from debris and dirt. Apply a thin layer of oil and be sure to lubricate the outer race of the hinge.

1. We install the new hinge and lightly press it into the cavity.
2. Evenly tighten the hinge until it touches the outer edge.
3. We fix the retaining ring and install the hub in its original place.

Installation in a regular place. Assembly of the structure

1. Apply a thin layer of graphite grease, put the assembly on the shaft, and secure it with a nut.

1. We complete the tightening with a torque wrench (tightening torque 30 Nm).
2. Use a chisel to counter the nut and put on the cap.

This completes the disassembly, assembly, and replacement of the rear wheel bearing.

Note to the driver. The Lada Granta Sport modification has a rear hub with a pre-installed ABS sensor.

It often happens that during the process of dismantling the hub mechanism, a bolt or pin breaks. The reasons for this are different, ranging from the old age of the metal to manufacturing defects.

So, how to remove a broken bolt. We carry out the work in several stages:

• mark the center of the stud;
• drill with a drill to 2.5, after 5.5, 9.5 mm;
• scroll with a bolt with a diameter of 9.5 - 10.0 mm;
• remove remaining metal and shavings.

How to choose a rear wheel bearing for Granta 2190 - price, number and manufacturers

The Lada Granta rear wheel bearing, the price of which is indicated in the table below, has an AVTOVAZ catalog number:

21080-3104020.

If you are guided by GOST markings, then look for:

256706AKE12

Before buying a wheel bearing, you should familiarize yourself with the list of recommended and trusted manufacturers. Such a list is compiled in the table below. It contains prices, exact articles, equipment, and manufacturers.

Study the table and decide for yourself which is better; the companies presented are approximately equivalent to each other in terms of workmanship and service life.

Table of recommended manufacturers

No.	Manufacturer	Catalog number	Price 2021, rub.	Equipment
Retaining ring	Dirt cap	Lock-nut	Instructions
1	VBF Russia	2108-3104020	500	—	—	—	—
2	SPZ Russia	2108-3104020	520	—	—	—	—
3	SKF Sweden	VKBA1307	1900	2	—	+	+
4	FAG Germany	545312A	600	—	—	—	—

Bearing size table 256706AKE12

Parameter	Unit	Value according to GOST (TU)
Hole diameter	mm	30
Outside diameter	mm	60
Width	mm	37
Dynamic load capacity	kH	30,1
Static load capacity	kH	25,9
Speed	rpm	6500
Axial clearance	mm	0,06-0,09
Steel type	—	SHH-15
Hardness of rings and balls	H.R.C.	61-65
Type of lubricant	—	Litol-24 (S17)
Torque	H*M	220
Ring roughness	Ra	0.32
Weight	G.	435

Review of manufacturer prices for front and rear hinges

How to choose and buy quality parts

Service center specialists strongly recommend purchasing consumables and components exclusively from specialized stores, representative offices, and official dealers.

To a lesser extent, you need to use the services of unverified suppliers who sell spare parts at an unusually low cost.

When purchasing, check the catalog numbers with the actual data specified in the operating instructions for the technical device. If such a brochure is not available, consult a specialist.

Choosing a new bearing for Lada Granta (VAZ 2190)

To do this, you need to know the original number of the Lada Granta bearing (VAZ 2190). The manufacturer AvtoVAZ indicates No. 21080-3104020. You can use GOST number 256706 AKE12. These two numbers are acceptable when selecting a part.

I also recommend using analogues:

— Russian manufacturer SPZ No. 2108-3104020;

— made in Russia VBF No. 2108-3104020;

— FAG German supplier No. 54512A;

- Swedish analogue of SKF VKBA1307.

Be sure to check the dimensions when purchasing. They should be like this:

— internal diameter – 30mm; — outer diameter — 60mm; - width - 37mm.

And of course, the part itself must be free of dents and rotate freely. Once you have purchased the bearing, you can begin replacing it.

Reviews

№	Positive
1.	Gennady: I’ve been actively using the car for two years, there are no comments on the chassis or suspension. Once I replaced the rubber boot on the left CV joint.
2.	Kirill: I have driven the car over 80,000 km, I can say that the CV joint still has service life, but it is necessary to prepare for repairs. In general, the parts are maintained within the period specified by the manufacturer.
3.	Vyacheslav: the car is a year and a half old, I bought it at a dealership, no complaints. I systematically carry out technical inspections, buy original consumables, and do not skimp on preventative maintenance.
4.	Dmitry: replaced the “grenades” only at 90,000 km. The service station master said that the mileage is good, not every car gets that much mileage. I believe that careful driving contributed to extending the life of the vehicle's chassis.
5.	Leonid: I’m pleased with the build quality of the car, there are no complaints. Breakdowns happen, but they are insignificant, I fix them myself.
6.	Vasily: if you don’t take into account minor flaws, then the car is good, better than previous generations.
7.	Victor: I drove Grant for a year and a half, didn’t do any repairs, visited a service station only for diagnostics.
Negative
1.	Ivan: I replaced the right CV joint for the first time at 45,000 km, after which the left one needed repairs. In general, the workmanship is low, I am dissatisfied with the machine.
2.	Alexander: standard CV joints are weak and poorly made. After purchasing a car, experts recommend installing foreign analogues. True, the cost is 15% more expensive than domestic ones.
3.	Vladlen: after two years of active driving, I can’t say anything bad. Minor defects are present, but they can be easily fixed.