Soft suspension for VAZ 2114

Guys, let me tell you and share your experience. I currently have an ss20 suspension from the previous owner. They say the supports are eternal, but the strut is leaking. They don’t suit me because a little harsh. Now I want a softer thread with a lowering of the rear -70 before -50. Tell me what?

Comments 66

I have -50 dampers and Phobos springs in the back, which are normal for the rear, but in front there are dampers and Phobos -50 struts, this is a gear crusher that completely sucks. but the dump racks seem to be ok, so I recommend either dump or dampen

if you want lowering, just install shortened springs and drive on stock struts, I see you don’t need much lowering, so just install stock, and don’t even change the supports, it doesn’t matter what they are. I have a friend who is a God-given cutter, look at it on my page everything is putty there)))

look how much a rod seal for a strut costs? and look how much new racks cost? there is a difference? so why change a strut that leaks oil due to wear of a cheap oil seal? sort them out or give them to someone who understands. Let them reduce the number of washers in the valve or pour in more liquid oil (blue, for example).

Also, they don’t suit me because they are a bit harsh in themselves.

My ss20 sport even supports are completely in a circle. Lowering front -50 rear -70. Very tough, I’ve already ridden 90t on them. km. and to be honest, I still haven’t even looked at the bottom of a single leak.

hmm... well, they advised... if you want to lower the car, then it’s better to immediately take -70 in front of -90 in the back, or around -90. because it's a disease! and -50 -70 in a couple of days will no longer seem enough to you. about the racks. Do not take kayaba under any circumstances. very tough racks! verified by personal experience. take Aston shorts. available for any understatement. The softness is a little harder than stock. In general, the racks are very comfortable. Read the reviews on them. SS20 Demfi and others, like Kayaba, are very tough. For springs, take technospring or SS20, but they are more expensive. technosprings are proven and reliable springs. but it is Phobos that, due to its so-called progressive coil, burst quite often. I myself tried many different suspension configurations, just like I sawed everything at first, now I’ve settled on Aston struts, technospring springs around -90. soft, comfortable, and most importantly working suspension. though for the summer I’ll probably lower my ass a little lower, -120 probably) good luck)

Do-it-yourself VAZ 2114 suspension repair

Set of pillars

Each pendant performs the same role. eliminates all types of vibrations, makes the ride softer. In addition, it is responsible for reducing roll when entering corners. Travel is smoother, neater.

Considering the quality of our roads, cars really do not envy, because the front suspension of the VAZ 2114 experiences unimaginable loads, just like the rear.

Some prefer the services of service centers, others do the VAZ 2114 suspension repairs with their own hands. What you choose is up to you. We will only say that repairing or replacing suspension elements on this car is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Rear suspension

The diagram of this node includes a total of 16 elements:

Rubber-metal hinge (it serves as the main fastener for the body);
Bracket. It secures the rear suspension arm to the body;
Shock absorber housing;
Compression load buffer;
Housing cover;
Washing machine support;
Amortpodushka;
Spacer sleeve;
Solid spring;
Shock absorber;
Beam lever;
Insulation gasket;
Lever connection element;
Flange;
Rack bracket;
Lever handle.

Disassembly and replacement

Dismantling is carried out in accordance with the following diagram.

The machine is fed into an inspection pit or raised by an elevator.
In the trunk, the gasket is removed, the belt reel is removed. There is also a fastening of the racks to the body, which is simply slightly weakened. No need to unscrew it.
The pair of rear wheels are now loose. To do this, the exhaust hoods are removed and the wheels are dismantled. Make sure the sockets are properly secured to the machine.
Remove the brake cables. Here you need to unscrew the cable fastening to the suspension brackets and the body. The brake drum is then removed and the cable ends are pulled through the hand drive lever. Be sure to unscrew the flanges from the brake valves at this stage.
At the next stage, the nozzles and hoses are removed from the brake system, and the drive lever is dismantled. It is used to operate the pressure regulator. To remove the arm, the bracket is detached by removing the washer and removing the shackle from the wheel axle.
After this you can disconnect the shock absorbers. Remove the rubber pads, unscrew the mounting nuts and remove the washer from the body. Next, stops are installed under the front wheels, and the rear part is slightly raised. This will allow you to remove the buffer, springs and shock housing.
By unscrewing the housing mounting bracket, you can dismantle the entire beam. This gives you full access to the rear suspension and struts. This allows you to even disassemble the shock absorbers yourself, change them for new ones, or make
an understatement for the VAZ 2114. Although, given the quality of our roads, this is not recommended. Don't forget that to remove the shock absorber, or rather the springs, you need to use special ties. If they are not in your garage, you may be seriously injured if you attempt to dismantle them without these attachments. The spring is under a lot of pressure, so it easily jumps out and you get injured.

Replacing or trimming the shock absorber spring

They play an important role in suspension. The rolling radius increases if the shock absorbers are large or stiff. To reduce discomfort during the trip, you need to reduce the rigidity. To do this, it is enough to purchase a soft version. Some specialists are ready to cut off part of the spring from the shock absorbers. In this case, the rolling radius will decrease. Obstacles on the roads will become easier to overcome. Of course, this does not happen in all cases. In addition, the driver may later encounter serious problems that arise due to a low car.

Disassembly and replacement

Many VAZ 2114 owners dream of installing air suspension . These are completely feasible fantasies, which, however, will require serious financial investments from you.

clamp

Therefore, until you have saved up enough money for pneumatics, there is a knock on the front suspension

The VAZ 2114 haunts you; you will need to disassemble it, determine the causes of the malfunctions and put the entire structure back together. How to do it? Now tell me.

The car can be lifted with a lift or simply placed in an observation pit. It all depends on what resources you have. Be sure to apply the handbrake, remove the wheel covers, loosen the bolts and remove the hub nuts. The front end must be effectively secured for wheel removal.
Now remove the ball joint pin. It is located in the swing arm on the A-pillar. After this, the front stabilizer rod is removed. It must be disconnected from the front suspension arm. Only now can you remove the stretch from the body. The next step is to remove the ball joint. If you forget, it is located and attached to the rod.
Now we start removing the front control arm. To do the job as smartly as possible, unscrew the bracket attached to the case. Now remove the lever along with the extension and bracket. Don't forget to remove the bolts securing the spacers to the hinge.
Well, now in front of you is a caliper that is completely assembled. It is not recommended to remove it completely, because reassembling it can lead to unpleasant consequences and unnecessary financial costs. It is better to take a hook and hang it so that the main hose does not work. Next, you can squeeze the splined shank away from the hub.
Go to the engine compartment and remove the protective fist from there. For this operation, you need to unscrew the nuts on the telescopic strut, and then remove the strut from the suspension of the front of the car. He walks right along with the hub and turns his fists. Likewise, the second front suspension strut is removed and the struts are then removed from the rod.
When removing the ball joint and steering knuckle bolts, be sure to use only a socket wrench. If you ignore this rule, you risk damaging the hinge protection cover. By doing this, you will incur additional financial costs yourself.
During dismantling, check the condition of some suspension elements and, if necessary, replace them.
The assembly process is carried out almost completely by analogy with disassembly. But there are a couple of nuances. Firstly. When installing the bracket fasteners onto the body, be careful not to damage the thread, so be careful. Second. When installing the anti-roll bar, try not to cause longitudinal displacement of the cushion on the rod.

If your own experience is not enough, it is not worth adding to it by starting with similar work. It is better to immediately contact the specialists of the service station being checked.
It will cost extra money, but the result of the repair is completely worth it. Driving a faulty car is definitely not the solution to the problem.

How to make the suspension softer

The easiest way to soften the suspension is to work with the car's tires . To do this, you can reduce the pressure in the tires, but this method is not always effective, as it can lead to poor vehicle handling or damage to the tires themselves, as well as excessive fuel consumption and poor braking. It is better to resort to replacing tires and purchase soft tires made by a reputable manufacturer; although this is a more expensive method, it is more effective than playing with pressure and, of course, safer.

If everything is clear with replacing tires, springs, shock absorbers and disks, then air suspension is a separate category that should be discussed in more detail.

What is air suspension

Air suspension is not an independent type of suspension, but an additional function on conventional suspensions. The main thing is that compressed air is used here for softening.

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This system will require additional installation of a compressor. Since it will take up space under the hood, air suspension is usually used on large vehicles.

The advantages of air suspension include:

There are several types of air suspension:

Air suspension is too complex a system to install yourself, so it is not recommended to do it yourself. It is also expensive to install and can cost so much that it may be better to replace the car. This type of suspension does not work at low temperatures and cannot be repaired.

How to choose shock absorbers for a VAZ 2114

First of all, let's decide on the option for using the racks. Remember: how do you drive a car, what roads do you travel on most often?

City highways allow the installation of oil struts on the VAZ 2114. They are traditional for all varieties of Samar. Oil shock absorbers provide soft and smooth passage of bumps.
If you don’t mind driving on the intercity highway and at the same time driving around the city, it is better to buy gas-oil shock absorbers. With them you don’t have to be afraid of small bumps and defects in the road; when accelerating, the car’s movement is more rigid.
Extreme sports enthusiasts know that they will not be able to do without gas struts. Only with gas devices can a car enthusiast experience all the delights of fast driving, including every bump. It is worth noting that gas struts have a negative impact on the car body.

Softness and hardness of the suspension - what is more important for comfort?

Suspension experts can tell you many interesting examples from practice, but I will have to limit myself to just a brief story about why harder is not always more grippy, and softer is not always more comfortable. The operation of car suspensions is not at all as simple as it seems at first glance. They perform many functions that are not entirely obvious. I will try to briefly mention the main ones.

In general, many books have been written about the work of pendants, and most of them are very thick. I will only try to outline the main points in order to fit into the format of an informative article.

Why you can't do without a pendant

Even very smooth roads actually have a curve in many directions, and the Earth itself bears little resemblance to an infinite plane. And in order for all four wheels to touch the surface, they must be able to move up and down. In this case, it is extremely desirable that the running surface of the wheel adheres to the surface with its entire width in any position of the suspension. So cars with stiff and short-travel suspensions are practically doomed to have poor wheel grip on the road, because one of the wheels will always be unloaded.

Why should the suspension have compression travel?

For all wheels to contact the road, it is not at all necessary that the suspension can be compressed; it is enough that the wheels can only move down. But when the car moves in turns, lateral forces arise that tend to tilt the car. If at the same time one side of the car can rise, and the other cannot lower, the center of gravity of the car will greatly shift towards the loaded wheel, which in turn will cause many negative consequences.

First of all, an even greater unloading of the internal wheel in relation to the rotation and an increase in the roll moment due to the movement of the center of gravity upward relative to the center of the suspension roll (more about it below). And, of course, if the wheels have no compression stroke, then even a small bump under one of the wheels should cause the body to move, moving all the other wheels down with all the associated energy costs of lifting and reduced wheel traction. Which, to put it mildly, is not very comfortable. It is also destructive to the body and suspension parts. In general, the suspension must be balanced, have compression travel and rebound travel to function properly.

Why does the car roll when cornering?

Since we have decided that the car should have a suspension and can move up and down, then purely geometrically a certain point, a center, is formed around which the car body rotates when it rolls. This point is called the vehicle's roll center.

The best manufacturers

When deciding on manufacturers of racks for the VAZ 2114, it is better to pay attention to time-tested, high-level devices. Cooperate only with official dealers or sellers in whose integrity and honesty you are 100% confident.

So, there are front and rear struts; it is advisable to fix shock absorbers on both sides of a car of the same type and from the same manufacturer. The most popular today are:

“Kayab” (KUV) is a gas-oil product. According to reviews from those who have already used the device, the car becomes moderately rigid, and bumps on the road are not audible at all. The car handles a variety of turns very well. This type of rack lasts for approximately 1 year, after which the product becomes decrepit and must be replaced.
Bilstein B4 is a mixture of gas and oil. They hold the road remarkably well, but much tougher than the previous manufacturer. It will faithfully serve as long as its predecessor. Experienced drivers do not recommend using a VAZ 2114 equipped with Bilstein B4 struts for everyday driving, because driving comfort will be too little. But for active trips into nature and extreme driving, this option is what you need.
ALKO – oil. Soft, smooth shock absorbers, lack of elasticity in the control of the VAZ 2114. Even after a year, motorists note the good condition of the devices of this vehicle. On forums, drivers often joke about these struts, calling them not suspensions, but a wooden stick. The products are very rough and make extraneous unpleasant sounds when turning. This is because the racks are designed for installation in sports car models. It is better to refrain from installing it on a VAZ 2114.
Bilstein B2 – oil. They are similar in quality and functional properties to the above-described “Kayab”, although they have a slightly higher degree of rigidity.

Which manufacturer is better is up to you to judge; we have only suggested some of the nuances of using different devices, tested empirically.

If we talk about cost, there are many variations here, prices change at the speed of light and vary in different stores, so indicating specific price ranges in this case is unethical, the information is inaccurate.

To give you a little idea of how much money you will need to buy the right type of suspension, we draw your attention to the fact that the front products are more expensive than the rear counterparts. On average, the price for the former varies from 1000 to 1400 rubles. A direct supplier of European-level structures will require 3000-3500 rubles with delivery directly to you.

Rear installations in the standard version produced by a domestic plant will cost no more than 800-900 rubles. 2000-2500 rubles will have to be sacrificed to purchase elite pendants.

Lada 2110 1.6 16 cl › Logbook › Replaced the original suspension of the VAZ 2110 with a suspension from Priora. (about SAAZ)

A short preface: When purchasing a VAZ 21104, 2005. The mileage was 86,000 km, it was immediately clear that the struts on it were no longer working, streaks were visible on the struts themselves, and when driving, even with the slightest bumps, the car rocked as if on waves. I didn’t bother, I decided to install a “Saaz” suspension 2170, it made sense to buy racks, at least modernized SAAZ Kit Since May 2014, the so-called “forty-ninths”, which began to be produced in June 2014, racks with gas support. By the way, the strut support for the suspension prior is desirable and seems to promise to be of high quality.

They also recommended some improvements to this suspension. Install the front springs from viburnum, of course, barrel, class “A” (two orange marks). Amplifiers for VAZ 2110 strut supports, the amplifiers could be made from old 2110 supports and, in my opinion, it would be better. I took the anthers 2110 (you could have left your own), I didn’t want the cups, I had to modify the anthers a little, make 2 holes. by 8 mm and 4 pcs. slightly higher by 10 mm. Everything else is original from Priorov, the strut support, as already written above, is “Anvis”, the support bearing is Vologda “VBF”. The front bumpers were taken from the SS-20 standard. and modernized SAAZ racks 49.2905011

On the rear there are springs from a VAZ 2111, there were options for buffers, but without details, I just bought a set from Kalina 2, which by the way is recommended for these shock absorbers, boot + buffer 21920-2912810-00. Rear struts SAAZ 491.2915010. I also immediately bought new original gaskets for the BRT springs, and BRT pillows, although I could also keep my own (they were in good condition). I changed the suspension myself, I don’t want to go into details, I watched various videos on the Internet on how to change struts, read articles, in the end I did everything correctly, by the way, there are enough nuances)). The only thing I want to note is that I had to sand down the support amplifier (driver’s side), the fact is that these amplifiers are absolutely the same, both right and left, but the glasses on the 2110 are different. But in general it would be better to make them from old 2110 supports.

Well, to the main thing, how does such a suspension manifest itself? First, I replaced the rear shock absorbers, drove it like that for a couple of days, but the effect was already very positive, firstly, the ride “on the waves” disappeared, and accordingly, the effect of the rear sagging at the start disappeared, and secondly, I immediately felt that the rear was handling the bumps very well Fine. Next, I replaced the front struts, as well as the silent blocks of the arms and stabilizer, eggs, balls, and went to the alignment. What I like: bad crossings over rails are handled very well, of course it gives something to the steering, the car is still far from new, but still the suspension operation when crossing rails is quite comfortable. I also like driving over speed bumps; if you move slowly, the suspension is considered inaudible; if you go a little faster than 30 km per hour, it also performs decently, with a slight dull sound of operation. I wouldn’t call the suspension particularly soft, it’s a little elastic or something, since the interior begins to rattle on broken gravel roads, but nevertheless it works very well, that is, there are no knocking noises in the suspension as such, there are no cracks on the asphalt you can hear it, except at average speed “on our good roads” you begin to hear the interior well)) it immediately seems that the suspension is slightly “stiff”, there is roll, but not more than that of the same Datsun On-Do, but again it holds the road fine , it’s not scary to take turns on bad asphalt. On the highway at a speed of 110-120 it is comfortable, it holds the road perfectly.

I will list everything I had to buy and how much it all cost. On the front: Front struts 49.2905011 (for all 4 front and rear 7000 rubles)

Front suspension springs LADA Kalina 2 pcs 1555 rub. Catalog number: 11190-2902712

Protection (reinforcements) of front suspension supports 522 RUR AR0215/AR10-2902850

Anvis stand support 2 pcs Catalog number: 2170-2902821-05

Front spring rubber 2 pcs 120 rub. Catalog number: 2170-2902723 Cups for springs in front 2 pcs. 570 rub. Catalog number: 2170-2902723 Drain support washer in front 4 pcs 200 rub. Catalog number: 2170-2902834

Bumper, compression stroke buffer, SS20 standard. 2 pcs 456 rub.

Front shock absorber cover for VAZ 2110 2 pcs. 333 rub. Catalog number: 2110-2905681

To the rear: Rear shock absorbers 491.2915010

Rear suspension spring 2 pcs 1020 rub. Catalog number: 21110-2912712-00 orange label class “a”

Buffer + shock absorber cover 2 sets 686 rub. Catalog number: 21920291281000

Gasket isolating rear suspension springs for VAZ 2110 “BRT” 2 pcs. 120 rub. Catalog number: 2110-2912652 Shock absorber mounting pad for VA3 2110 “BRT” 4 pcs. 40 rub. Catalog number: 2110-2915450

It would have been possible to save money, but I didn’t want to.

Possible faults

Among the most common malfunctions of struts on the VAZ 2114, a number of breakdowns are noted:

extraneous noise has appeared, cracking in the area of the brake pads;
the compression buffer in the car is damaged or completely ruptured;
oil leaks on the body;
The rod in the shock absorber began to jam.

If you notice at least one of the indicated manifestations in your car, take the car to a service station. If the services of a car repair shop are currently too expensive, try to cope on your own. You can enlist the help of a friend who at least knows something about how machines work.

One way or another, it is advisable for every driver to be able to cope with minor problems on their own, because they can overtake you on the road far from home, as they say, it’s never too late to learn.

How does the ball joint change?

To do this, you need to remove the front wheel mounting bolts and hang part of the car on a jack. Next, the nut securing the ball element is unscrewed. The support pin is pressed out of the lever. Similar to the previous case, this is done using a puller. If there is none, do not unscrew the nut completely. We press the lever with a pry bar and apply light blows with a hammer along the axis of the lever. Use a wooden block as a buffer. The next step is to unscrew the two bolts that secure the ball joint to the steering knuckle.

Tools needed to replace struts

Let's say you decide to install shock absorbers on your VAZ yourself. So that you don’t have to be distracted later by getting or finding the necessary tools in the garage, prepare the entire set of special devices in advance. So, what devices will you need:

standard jack;
cotter pins, vices and puller;
in repair work related to the racks of the VAZ 2114, a hammer and pliers will be useful;
It’s great if you have a chisel at hand;
you can’t do without open-end and ring wrenches for 13, 17, 19, 22, 24;
a wrench designed to remove a wheel from a car.

If you have ever dealt with repairs or at least seen from the outside how VAZ 2115, 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113 are repaired, this will help you better navigate replacing shock absorbers on a VAZ 2114, because the process itself is identical. Moreover, all the parts of these cars exactly match the latest brand of domestic car.

Bottom line

Before deciding whether to experiment with your car's suspension, you should weigh the pros and cons. Use the tips above and implement the option that is most suitable for the type of driving and the roads on which the car is most often driven, and of course the amount of money that you don’t mind spending on improvements.

Do-it-yourself VAZ 2114 suspension repair

Set of pillars

Each pendant performs the same role. eliminates all types of vibrations, makes the ride softer. In addition, it is responsible for reducing roll when entering corners. Travel is smoother, neater.

Considering the quality of our roads, cars really do not envy, because the front suspension of the VAZ 2114 experiences unimaginable loads, just like the rear.

Today we will look at the front suspension of the VAZ 2114 device, as well as the nuances of replacing it. We'll do the same with the rear suspension.

How to install shock absorbers on a VAZ 2114

It is better to once again make sure that the necessary spare parts and tools are fully equipped before installation. Assess how efficient they are. It is advisable to wash the settled dust particles on the rods with running water. Finally, we start replacing the racks.

Place the car on a level surface. The machine must stand firmly on the base and not wobble or move.
To prevent the VAZ 2114 from suddenly moving from its place, you need to put the handbrake on it, then jack up the car and secure the wheel restraints.
Remove 2 wheels from the part of the car where the old suspensions will be removed. It’s up to you to decide which new units are best mounted for a comfortable ride.
If the front products are to be replaced, release them from the safety mechanism.
Replacing rear products involves removing the protection in the upper fastening element.
Slightly loosen the rod nut and fasteners adjacent to the body.
Hold the pliers tightly in your hand, then use them to release and remove the cotter pin from the VAZ 2114.
Disconnect the steering rod.
Remove the hose involved in the braking process.
Through the arch, free yourself from the outdated type of shock absorber.
Dismantle the support bearing.
Carefully and slowly fold the new product, consisting of a spring and a bearing.
You can install shock absorbers by initiating the reverse procedure for installing the product.

Now you know what manipulations need to be done in order for the replacement of struts in a VAZ 2114 to be completed successfully. Auto repair shop specialists recommend replacing the support bearings along with the suspensions, which wear out quickly in domestic cars.

Spherical bearing

This is another important element in the suspension design. The ball joint is a balancer that bears all the load and heaviness of the front part of the body. Therefore, the part wears out much more often than the shock absorber strut and levers. It is worth noting that the ball is not only the fulcrum of the entire suspension, but also the turning mechanism. Thanks to it, the front wheels are controlled by means of a rack, rods and a fist.

constant-velocity joint;
rounded fist;
levers;
stand and its fastening elements.

In other words, the car will need a complete front suspension replacement. The VAZ-2114 will undergo expensive and lengthy repairs. Therefore, at the first sign, this part needs to be changed.