Self-replacement of the vacuum booster on a VAZ 2114

First you need to figure out what this vacuum amplifier actually is.

• This is a casing within which the valve is located. The element is structurally divided into two parts, which are separated by a layer of rubber - the diaphragm;
• One part of the amplifier is atmospheric, and the second is vacuum - it is connected to the inlet pipe from the power unit;
• The amplifier valve is a plastic casing containing the main elements that are subject to wear. It is because of them that the operation of the gearbox is disrupted. To be more precise, the gearbox begins to rattle;
• The composition of the valve is as follows: there is a rod on the bushing, adjacent to the buffer and piston. There is also the valve itself on the pusher and return springs with a filter.

Appearance of the device

SIGNS OF MALFUNCTION AND CHECKING THE VACUUM BRAKE BOOSER

As soon as you have any doubts about whether the vacuum pump is working properly, you need to immediately check the vacuum brake booster of the VAZ 2114. It is worth noting that brakes are one of the key systems of any car, on which the life and safety of you and yours directly depends passengers, therefore, no negligence or irresponsibility is acceptable here.

Signs of a faulty vacuum brake booster, which indicate that the vacuum brake on a VAZ is broken, are as follows:

• The need to apply more force than before to press the brake pedal;
• Deterioration in the braking efficiency of a vehicle at the same pedal pressure.

As soon as any of these factors appear, immediately begin checking the spare part. To do this, you need to turn off the engine and press the brake pedal several times with sufficient force, then stop it in the middle of the range of motion (your foot fixes the pedal), and restart the engine.

If the vacuum brake booster of the VAZ 2114 is working properly, then the pedal itself will fall a little to the bottom, but if the vacuum booster fails, the pedal will remain in the same position.

After identifying the problem, you need to find out what exactly is wrong with the vacuum seal. This requires a visual inspection. In general, the inspection is carried out on the following points:

1. The vacuum chamber is checked for tightness of the connection between the check valve and the pipe;
2. The integrity of the fixing flanges is checked;
3. A situation is possible when, due to wear in places of bends, the pipes have cracked, this is evidenced by characteristic wet marks on their surface;
4. Often the main reason for failure of the vacuum seal is damage to the shank - check the protective cap on the seal; it should not stick. Remove the cap and start the engine; if you hear a hissing sound after bleeding the shank, that’s the problem.

The process of replacing VUT with a VAZ-2114

The brakes in a car are a whole system. Accordingly, if you have already checked the amplifier, then additionally make sure that brake fluid is not leaking anywhere. Check the condition of the pedal itself. There are situations when it would be a good idea to check the brake cylinder and diagnose the entire system as a whole.

If checking the brake system did not show obvious problems, and the device we need refuses to work normally, then the VAZ-2114 vacuum booster will need to be replaced.

Please note that a malfunctioning amplifier has a significant impact on the operation of the internal combustion engine. The engine power it will produce depends on this.

general information

The design solution of the brake system of the 2114th model is almost the same for most VAZs. Therefore, these instructions will help you change the vacuum seal on many cars.

If you decide to change the device yourself, you need to read the manufacturer’s recommendations in the operating manual of your VAZ. And purchase exactly the vacuum booster whose model is recommended by the car’s creators.

During operation, the mechanical connections of parts become clogged with dust, residual working fluids, and dirt. After a long period, it becomes very difficult to unscrew such bolts and nuts. They seem to grow and become a monolith. To make work easier and not damage the surfaces, you should use WD-40: first spray a small amount of aerosol into the joint and after a few seconds, start working.

Replacing the vacuum brake booster

To ensure the safety of using the car, if necessary, the vacuum brake booster is replaced on the VAZ 2110 and 2112. After all, this auxiliary design element not least affects the braking efficiency. Timely repairs will allow you to keep your nerves safe and sound. After all, unstable brakes have a negative impact on the driver’s state of mind. The work itself to replace this device is not difficult.

But, during its implementation, you will have to tinker a little with some design elements that will interfere with you. Design Features Replacing the vacuum brake booster on a VAZ 2110 and 2112 is not a very frequent job, but still, sometimes you have to deal with it. The purpose of this part is to reduce the pressure required to operate the brakes. For this purpose, the vacuum that forms in the intake manifold is used. The amplifier itself is made in the form of a sealed metal can.

We recommend: Removing and replacing the rear axle axle seal of the Niva Chevrolet

It is divided into 2 parts. In one of the halves there is atmospheric air, in the other a vacuum is created. Also, there is a rod with a return spring. When you press the pedal, air is admitted into the first chamber. It presses on the rod, which is in the other half. Thus, under the influence of atmospheric air, the pressure on the pedal required to operate the brakes is reduced.

After the end of the air supply (action on the pedal), the return spring presses the rod back. This circuit only works when the engine is running, which is why the brake pedal of a stopped car is so hard. Diagnostics In fact, the failure of the vacuum brake booster is not very harmless. Especially if the failure occurs unexpectedly. The first sign of a breakdown is the brake pedal becoming sticky.

If this pedal has become much harder than it was before, then it makes sense to check the amplifier. Most likely, he simply cannot cope with his responsibilities. Often, when you press the brake, you can hear a hissing sound. Diagnosing such a malfunction is very simple. To do this, with the engine turned off, press the brake pedal 5-6 times and leave it pressed. After this, we start the engine. The pedal should go down a little, this indicates that the brake vacuum is fully operational.

If the brake pedal does not go away, then most likely there is a problem with the booster. First, check all hoses and fittings for air leaks. After that, run the diagnostics again. If nothing has changed, then it makes sense to replace the entire booster. Article on the topic “How to check the vacuum brake booster?” ReplacementAs already mentioned, the job of replacing an amplifier is not very difficult.

But you will need to remove some parts, they will interfere with your work. Before starting work, it is imperative to prepare the car. Place it on the handbrake, remove the terminal from the battery. If you have central locking, leave at least one window open. Replacement is carried out in the following order:

• The block leading the wires to the brake fluid level sensor is removed;
• The vacuum hose is removed from the branch pipe (amplifier check valve). Be sure to hold the valve with one hand;
• Unscrew the 2 nuts securing the main brake cylinder. There are washers underneath, so don’t lose them;
• Carefully move the removed cylinder to the side. Do not damage the air supply pipes of the system. Otherwise, you will have to change them, which will complicate repairs;
• At the bottom of the instrument panel, locate and remove the 4 nuts holding the brake vacuum in place. If you installed additional noise protection, you will have to remove it; Go under the hood and remove the vacuum booster from the car;
• Using a slotted screwdriver, the stopper (finger ring) is removed. Next, you can disconnect the pusher from the control pedal;
• All that remains is to tighten the nuts securing the vacuum booster to the bracket. Using a screwdriver, they are separated.

The vacuum booster is not subject to repair or restoration work. Therefore, you will have to supply a replacement part. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. It shouldn't cause any particular difficulties. Don't forget to reconnect any hoses you removed. After installing all the parts in place, check the operation of the new part. Sometimes, during work you have to unscrew the brake pipes.

In this case, you will need to bleed the brake system to get rid of air pockets. Conclusion. Proper brakes are an important safety feature. But, unfortunately, they can sometimes fail. Therefore, work such as replacing the vacuum brake booster on VAZ 2110 and 2112 may be required at any time. Although, it should be noted that this design element can be called perhaps the most reliable of this model.

Design and operating algorithm

The first passenger cars produced in the last century were not equipped with “vacuum seals”. To sharply slow down the car in case of emergency braking, the pedal had to be pressed with a force of about 80 kg. The device of the vacuum brake booster installed on modern vehicles makes it possible to reduce the mentioned force to a light press.

To diagnose malfunctions of this unit, you need to know its design and operating principle. The amplifier is a cylindrical metal housing, inside of which the following elements are located:

• a diaphragm pushed by a return spring;
• air valve with two channels - atmospheric and vacuum;
• in the center of the body there is a rod connected at one end to the brake pedal, the other to the main cylinder, and a diaphragm is attached to it;
• vacuum supply pipe from the engine intake manifold connected to the check valve.

In fact, the body of the “vacuum generator” is divided by a membrane into 2 separate chambers. The first is supplied with vacuum from the power unit, while in the second the air pressure is equal to atmospheric pressure. The chambers communicate with each other through the channels of the air valve, which alternately open when the driver presses and releases the pedal.

The classic vacuum brake booster works according to the following algorithm:

1. Until the driver activates the brake system, both chambers communicate via a vacuum channel. Since the pressure in them is the same, the pusher and rod remain motionless.
2. After pressing the pedal, the rod moves forward and the connection between the two chambers through the vacuum channel is interrupted. The valve opens another passage connecting the atmospheric chamber with outside air.
3. Due to the pressure difference, the diaphragm bends towards the vacuum, thereby helping to put pressure on the pusher and the piston of the main hydraulic cylinder.
4. When the driver takes his foot off the pedal, the valve produces the opposite effect - it closes the atmospheric channel and opens the vacuum channel. The pressure in the chambers is equalized, the spring pushes the membrane back to its original position.

Reference. In diesel and some gasoline cars, the vacuum is created not by the intake manifold, but by a separate vacuum pump in the brake system. Such a scheme operates reliably in high altitude conditions with low atmospheric pressure, where a conventional membrane amplifier loses its functionality.

If the brake pedal is held down by the driver, the diaphragm also stops and exerts a constant force on the rod. Thanks to the described operating principle of the VUT, the driver’s work is greatly facilitated, and the system responds to the pedal much faster.

Functionality check

This instruction will be relevant when checking the vacuum booster on VAZ models from 2113 to 2115. So the technique is clearly universal.

1. Press the brake pedal all the way to the floor about 4-5 times. In this case, the engine should not be started. Due to these presses, you will create equal pressure in two sections of your vacuum booster. The valve will report problems as soon as you start pressing the pedal. If you hear squeaks while pressing, this indicates a serious malfunction.
2. Once the pressure is even, start the engine while keeping the brake pedal to the floor. If the brake booster system is working properly, then the pedal will rise by itself after the engine is started. If this does not happen, then you will definitely have to face repair work.
3. If the check shows problems with the amplifier, do not forget to additionally check the quality of the hose fastening and the condition of the flange. When the mount is abnormal, this may result in the brake pedal not lifting.

We recommend: What to do if the air conditioner in your car does not turn on?

Sometimes poorly fixed fasteners cause quite expensive and actually unnecessary repairs or replacement of the vacuum booster. Conduct a preliminary check so as not to complicate your life.

When to change the amplifier

Brakes are a whole system that consists of many elements. Each of them must function correctly and efficiently.

In addition to checking the vacuum booster itself, you should inspect the condition of the brake fluid pipes, make sure there are no brake fluid leaks, and look at the current condition of the brake pedal.

If no faults were found in the braking system, you can think in more detail about the issue of replacing the vacuum booster.

There is no point in repairing the element. It's easier to start replacing right away. The functionality of the car and the power that your engine is capable of producing depend on the quality and timeliness of the work performed. Lack of power negatively affects the speed and comfort of movement around the city and beyond.

Replacement

To replace a vacuum booster you will need a certain set of tools and materials. It includes:

• Screwdriver Set;
• Pliers;
• Socket wrench for 13 and 17 millimeters;
• Special wrench for brake pipes;
• New plugs;
• New fittings.

Replacement procedure

Let's get straight to work.

1. Removing the vacuum booster can be difficult due to the brake cylinder. Therefore, we advise you to remove it first. Another option is to disconnect the pipes from the brake cylinder and move them to the side for a while. Here you decide for yourself what is more convenient for you.
2. The cylinder is not the main problem. It is difficult to cope with the mounting of the vacuum booster. It's just not very convenient to do this. This is the design of the VAZ 2114.
3. Start with the valve - remove the hose fasteners from it, remove the support bush, after which you can pull out the brake pin.
4. Next, using a 13 mm wrench, all four fasteners of the vacuum booster are dismantled.
5. After all the inconveniences of the work done, you can remove the element and get ready to install a new amplifier in its place.
6. To do this, you will have to install a special mounting frame. The frame is tightened with a 17 mm wrench, after which the new component is installed inside the car.
7. If you want to make your work as easy as possible, do not forget to first connect the brake pedal to the booster with your finger when reassembling it. After this, it is much easier to cope with putting the vacuum seal back into place.

When replacing the vacuum booster, be sure to change the old vacuum hose at the same time. This element is far from eternal, therefore, as it wears out, it will negatively affect the quality and efficiency of the new vacuum seal.

How to check engine air leaks

Finding air leaks will be difficult if you don’t have a special device at hand to show leaks. One of these devices is called a smoke generator; it makes diagnostics much easier and is not that expensive.

Previously, air leaks were determined by eye. We spilled liquid on the intake manifold while the engine was running and looked for bubbles. If you have extensive experience working with a given brand of car, then you can use this method. The downside is that while the engine is running, liquid spilled on the collector will also bubble due to temperature and you can make a mistake. If at this moment the internal combustion engine is shaking, the situation becomes more complicated. If there is a slight loss of tightness, this test option may not help.

You can check the air leaks on the carburetor by covering the top with your hand or a rag, having first removed the housing with the filter. If the engine stalls, there are no leaks. If it continues to work, then there is an air leak and it needs to be eliminated. As a rule, on the carburetor, a lower plate leads along the plane, which is tightened with the manifold. It can be sanded or replaced with a new one. This procedure is sufficient to determine whether the carburetor is leaking.

Let's return to modern cars, where checking air leaks can take a long time and detecting a leak is not easy. The basic principle of detecting air leaks in the engine is to inject smoke into the intake manifold, which will come out where there is a crack, a loose pin or a torn rubber band. Checking an internal combustion engine with a smoke generator takes some time and takes place in several stages:

1. Finding the inlet fitting or any other location on the intake manifold. This is necessary to connect the device itself and supply smoke. It can be difficult to find such an input and you have to use the vacuum booster channel on the intake manifold. With this connection, it is impossible to determine the air leakage from the shaft.
2. Next, you need to fill the smoke generator with engine oil. The operating principle is based on heating the oil with a diesel glow plug. You can use any motor oil you have on hand. The main thing is not to overheat the candle, constantly turn the power on and off, or install a pulsed source.
3. The standard design of the smoke generator involves supplying air to build up pressure through a compressor. You can use an electric pump from a car, or any other that creates a pressure of at least 1 atm.
4. Plug the inlet pipe between the throttle body and the air filter. You can use the housing from an old mass air flow sensor. Fill it with polyurethane foam and you will get an excellent plug.
5. Having completed all the preparatory procedures, turn on the device. After smoke under pressure fills the receiver and intake manifold, an air leak will immediately appear. It is advisable to use a flashlight to better see the smoke coming out and the location of the leak.

Thus, it is easy to check air leaks with a smoke generator. This is a very important and convenient procedure for troubleshooting the engine. Many diagnosticians ask questions about fuel correction when air leaks occur. This is one of the general indicators on the scanner and can indicate not only a leak, but also low compression and shifted valve timing.

There are other ways to check for air leaks with smoke. One of them is using a cigarette. There is even a special tool for this. It is a pistol for a compressor with an internal clip into which a cigarette fits. When you press the trigger of the pneumatic pistol, the cigarette lights up and emits copious smoke. The disadvantage of this method is that it burns out very quickly and there may not be enough time to catch air leaks in the engine and injector. But this option of checking air leaks with a cigarette also has its place.

You can determine air leaks in any engine using the old-fashioned method, by spilling liquid on the intake manifold and the injector area. Or the option with a cigarette, but all these methods are not accurate and not convenient.

The smoke machine itself costs a lot of money. Therefore, if your internal combustion engine shakes or the speed fluctuates, go to a service center that has a smoke generator. They will definitely help you identify the cause without extra costs.

NECESSARY TOOLS FOR THE JOB

Upon completion of the diagnosis, when the need to replace the part is obvious, before starting work it is necessary to prepare the tools and spare parts required for replacement.

First of all, purchase a new vacuum brake booster for your VAZ 2114; we also recommend replacing the connecting hose at the same time if it shows any signs of wear.

Replacing the vacuum on a VAZ 2114 requires the following tools:

• Pliers;
• Open-end and socket wrenches with a diameter of 10, 13 and 17 mm;
• Screwdriver.

Look at the condition of the plugs and fittings; you may need to replace them too, so when purchasing the necessary materials, do not forget to purchase them.

Checking the serviceability of the amplifier

In this section we will tell you how to check the performance of the vacuum brake booster on a VAZ-2114. All of the recommendations given can be used when checking the unit, both on the thirteenth and fifteenth car models.

To check, follow these steps:

1. Press the brake pedal all the way about 5 times with the engine off. This action will create uniform pressure in both components of the VUT. When the brake is pressed, the valve will immediately release itself. If you notice a squeak, this is a clear signal that the part needs to be replaced.
2. As soon as the pressure is uniform, you need to start the car while holding the brake pedal to the floor. If everything is fine with the unit, the pedal will rise after starting the internal combustion engine. Otherwise, repairs will need to be made to replace the device.
3. When you have already realized that the part needs to be replaced, you need to additionally check how well the hose is fixed, as well as the condition of the flange. If these elements are in a condition that does not meet the standard, this may affect the performance of the amplifier. Accordingly, in this case, you may need to tighten the fastenings and the problem will solve itself.

We recommend: Instructions for reupholstering car seats with your own hands

How to replace the vacuum brake booster on a VAZ 2110-VAZ 2112?

Removal: 1) First, unscrew all the screws that secure the soundproofing material (Most of the nuts are indicated by red arrows), then unfasten the belt securing the expansion tank of the cooling system (the tank is indicated by a blue arrow) and slightly lifting it up, remove it from the place where it is located.

The hoses are connected to it, do not disconnect them under any circumstances, otherwise liquid will flow out, which will stain your car. Of course, you can put some kind of container and drain all the liquid from the expansion tank, but why do this if you can do without it and the work will go much faster), then carefully place the tank somewhere and fix it and then take out the left (look in the direction of the car) part of the soundproofing material and put it aside.

Note! The same thing will need to be done with the right side, in order to remove it, you first need to move the rear window washer reservoir to the side (On VAZ 2110 cars, this reservoir is not present, it is only present on the VAZ 2111 and VAZ 2112), to do this, disconnect the two wires that fit it (see photo 3), unfasten the belt that holds it (see photo 4) and carefully remove it.

If there is a lot of liquid in the tank, then you don’t have to remove it, just carefully place it on the fender, but if there is none or you have pumped it all out, then disconnect all the remaining tubes from the tank and after that, remove it completely from the car) and to complete the removal on the right side of the soundproofing material, use a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two nuts (see photo 1) and with a thin flat screwdriver, pry up the brake booster hose holder (see photo 2) and disconnect it too, and basically, you can take it out soundproofing material so that it does not interfere with the removal of the vacuum brake booster from the car!

2) Now that the soundproofing material is removed, disconnect the wiring block from the brake reservoir cap (Indicated by a red arrow), then disconnect the hose from the check valve of the vacuum brake booster (Hose indicated by a green arrow) and unscrew the two nuts (Indicated by blue arrows) securing the Brake Master Cylinder to the brake booster, then carefully move the GTZ to the side, but just be careful, make sure that the brake pipes do not burst, otherwise you will have to change them.

3) After the operation has been completed, move to the salon and there unscrew the four nuts that secure the vacuum booster bracket to the body (Indicated by red arrows), and also disconnect the wire blocks (Indicated by blue arrows) from the brake light switch (Indicated by green arrow), when everything is done done, you can move again to the engine compartment of the car and, once there, pull out the vacuum booster assembly with the bracket.

4) Having placed the vacuum seal on the ground or secured it in a vice, first of all, pull out the metal stopper with small pliers (Indicated by the red arrow), then carefully knock out the rod (see small photo, it is metal and comes out very easily), pressing on it from above or vice versa from below .

5) And finally, unscrew both nuts that secure the vacuum seal to the bracket and remove it, this completes the operation of removing the brake booster.

Installation: Install a new brake booster in the reverse order of removal, during installation, do not make a mistake and do everything exactly the same as before, when it is installed, do not wear soundproofing material, but try how it works (How to check the brake booster, we have already wrote above), if everything is fine, complete the installation of all parts as they were previously.

Removal of VUT

1. To access the VUT fasteners, you need to dismantle the engine filter housing. To dismantle, unscrew the two bolts securing the housing at the front, also loosen the clamp securing the pipe and remove the connector from the mass air flow sensor. Turn the front bolts by hand and loosen the clamp with a Phillips screwdriver.

Release the clamp securing the adsorber and move it to the side without disconnecting the hoses. It is convenient to loosen the clamp with an open-end wrench by ten.

Unscrew the 2 nuts securing the brake cylinder and, together with the expansion tank, move it to the side. It is convenient to unscrew the nuts with a thirteen wrench.

Remove the pipe from the check valve fitting. Unscrew the four nuts securing the amplifier from the body. It is convenient to unscrew the nuts using a wrench with an extension and a cardan. Thirteen head nuts.

Remove the spring pin retainer that secures the brake booster rod to the pedal.

Remove the pin and disconnect the rod from the brake pedal. Remove the VUT by pulling it towards you from its seat.

Unscrew the two nuts of the bracket that secures the amplifier to the body.