How to adjust the brake booster rod

Thank you all for your response!

yaris

I have self-feeding cylinders.

It's all about the gap between the GTZ and the VUT rod! I have not seen anyone write about adjusting it in any article!

I quote: Before installing the master brake cylinder, we control the protrusion of the head of its adjusting bolt relative to the mounting plane of the master brake cylinder flange, which should be 1.25-0.2 mm

. To adjust the protrusion of the bolt head, turn it with an 8-point wrench.

This was the reason for the brakes being applied almost to the floor! But the “instructions” don’t say a word that the rod itself needs to be held with pliers and the “head” itself must be turned. And the key is not "on" 8

"But still "at
7
". I removed the GTZ three times to adjust the rod. And then this rod needs to be “inserted” back! I will say this is not very easy, since the pipeline is already connected and laid! It’s good that I didn’t leave the original brake fluid reservoir with its rubber hoses. I feel like I suffered even more then! The pedal began to take where it should be - in the middle! But “the music didn’t play for long!” Still, I guessed wrong.

Thanks again to Deeptown

for the hint where to dig, for the consultation at the moment when I stopped near the Dorogozhychi metro station with an oak pedal and almost blocked brakes. I had one adjustable wrench with me, thanks to it I unscrewed the GTZ and relieved the pressure. Then, on the floor with live brakes, I drove to the garage. There, within 5 minutes I removed everything, tightened the rod 5 turns and calmly drove home. But I see that I can add a couple more turns.

The vacuum brake booster (VBR) is one of the main components of the vehicle braking system. Even the slightest breakdown can trigger a failure of the entire system and lead to serious consequences.

Brake booster

Almost all modern cars are equipped with vacuum brake boosters. They have a fairly simple design, but are very effective and quite reliable.

Purpose

The VUT serves to transmit and increase force from the pedal to the brake master cylinder (MBC). In other words, it simplifies the driver’s actions when braking. Without it, the driver would have to press the pedal with incredible force to force all the working cylinders of the system to function simultaneously.

Device

The VUT design consists of:

housing, which is a sealed metal container;
check valve;
plastic diaphragm with rubber cuff and return spring;
pusher;
follower valve with rod and piston.

A diaphragm with a cuff is placed in the device body and divides it into two compartments: atmospheric and vacuum. The latter is connected through a one-way (non-return) valve to a source of air vacuum using a rubber hose. In the VAZ 2106, such a source is the intake manifold pipe. It is there that, during operation of the power plant, a vacuum is created, which is transmitted through a hose to the VUT.

The atmospheric compartment, depending on the position of the follow-up valve, can be connected both to the vacuum compartment and to the environment. The valve is moved by a pusher, which is connected to the brake pedal.

The diaphragm is connected to a rod, which is provided to push the master cylinder piston. When it moves forward, the rod presses on the GTZ piston, causing the fluid to be compressed and pumped to the working brake cylinders.

The spring is designed to return the diaphragm to its initial position upon completion of braking.

How it works

The functioning of the “vacuum tank” is ensured by the pressure difference in its chambers. When the car engine is turned off, it is equal to atmospheric pressure. When the power plant is running, the pressure in the chambers is also the same, but there is already a vacuum created there by the movement of the engine pistons.

When the driver presses the pedal, his force is transmitted to the follower valve through the pusher. Having shifted, it closes the channel that connects the compartments of the device. The subsequent stroke of the valve equalizes the pressure in the atmospheric compartment, due to the fact that the atmospheric channel opens. The pressure difference between the compartments causes the diaphragm to bend, compressing the return spring. In this case, the rod of the device presses on the GTZ piston.

The force created by the “vacuum driver” can exceed the driver’s force by 3–5 times. Moreover, it is always directly proportional to the applied.

Location

VUT VAZ 2106 is installed in the engine compartment of the car on the left side of the engine shield. It is secured with four studs on the plate of the brake and clutch pedal bracket. The GTZ is fixed on the body of the “vacuum generator”.

How to replace a defective vacuum booster on a VAZ 2109: list of actions

The initial task of repair is to disconnect the pedal from the amplifier rod. Dismantling is carried out in the area of the pedal assembly: it is necessary to disconnect the two units connected to each other by a pinned pin using a flat-head screwdriver.

Further work is carried out in the engine compartment:

disconnect the power supply connector for the brake fluid level sensor;
dismantle the bracket that secures the hydraulic lines relative to the car frame (unscrew the nut with a head to “10”);
disconnect the main brake cylinder by unscrewing the two nuts securing it to the VUT using a 17" wrench.

Note. When changing the brake booster, do not disconnect the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder. The lengths of the pipes make it possible to move the unit outside the working area.

After access to VUT is opened, the plan for replacing the vacuum booster of the VAZ 2109 brake system comes into force, including the following measures:

disconnect the pipe connecting the amplifier chamber to the intake manifold;
remove the front strut strut (installed additionally);
unscrew the four nuts that secure the amplifier housing to the body studs (use a set of wrenches + extension + universal joint + head on “13”);
remove the assembly from the studs and remove it from the engine compartment.

operating principle On the back side of the amplifier (on the drive fork side) a seal is installed and a bracket is attached, through which the unit is connected to four studs on the car frame. The parts must be dismantled: it is enough to unscrew the two fastening nuts with a “17” head and remove the iron structure by moving it towards you. The boot is easily pulled off the stem.

Having mounted the mounting bracket and rubber seal on the new amplifier, you can begin installing the VUT, which proceeds according to the reverse scenario. When installing, you should pay attention to three facts:

The vacuum booster rod should be connected to the brake pedal immediately after the unit is seated on the mounting studs (before tightening with nuts);
experienced owners additionally apply sealant between the brake cylinder and the VUT, indicating the imperfection of the sealing elements;
the VUT rod acting on the main brake cylinder (located on the front side of the housing) may move during transportation or installation (it is necessary to check and, if necessary, install correctly by pressing until it stops).

For your information. An incorrectly installed actuator rod will result in the brakes not working after assembly.

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How to check the vacuum booster

If the symptoms listed above occur, the vacuum unit must be checked. You can determine the functionality of the device without removing it from the car. For diagnostics, we need a rubber bulb from a hydrometer and a screwdriver (slotted or Phillips, depending on the type of clamps).

We carry out verification work in the following order:

Turn on the parking brake.
We sit in the cabin and press the brake pedal 5-6 times without starting the engine. On the last press, leave the pedal in the middle of its travel.
We take our foot off the pedal and start the power plant. When the “vacuum” is working, the pedal will move down a short distance.
If this does not happen, turn off the engine and move on to the engine compartment. We find the amplifier housing there, inspect the check valve flange and the end of the connecting hose. If they have visible breaks or cracks, we prepare to replace the damaged parts.

Video: checking VUT

How to check

Checking and replacing the Gazelle vacuum brake booster is mandatory as soon as necessary. To do this, you do not need to lift the car and check it every day. As soon as the driver notices that it becomes difficult to press the brake pedal, the booster should be checked for malfunctions.

Press the brake pedal several times until it stops and while pressed, start the engine. Pressure changes in the booster will cause the brake pedal to move further forward. If you do not feel the pedal moving, you need to check the connection hoses for leaks. Perhaps there is air leaking somewhere.
If the above procedure does not help, then the Gazelle vacuum brake booster needs to be replaced or repaired.
We check the tightness of the amplifier itself as follows: start the engine for a few minutes and turn off the engine. After about thirty seconds, press the brakes twice. If you do not hear the characteristic hiss of air, the part is faulty.
We blow out the hose with the check valve. If air is coming from both sides of the hose, the valve must be replaced.
While the engine is idling, “triple” begins. If at this moment you press the brakes and the shaking disappears, then the vacuum is faulty.

Repair or replacement

Having discovered a faulty vacuum brake booster, you can go in two ways: replace it with a new one or try to repair it. It should be noted here that a new VUT without a master brake cylinder will cost approximately 2000–2500 rubles. If you don’t want to spend that much money and are determined to repair the unit yourself, purchase a repair kit for the old “vacuum unit.” It costs no more than 500 rubles and includes those parts that most often fail: cuff, shank cap, rubber gaskets, valve flanges, etc. Repairing an amplifier itself is not a very complicated process, but it is time-consuming. It involves removing the device from the car, disassembling, troubleshooting, replacing faulty elements, as well as adjustment.

Change the vacuum booster or repair it, the choice is yours. We will consider both processes, and start with replacement.

Replacing VUT with VAZ 2106

thin slotted screwdriver;
spanner set to “13”;
socket wrench set to "13".

Place the car on a flat surface and put it in gear.
In the interior, we bend the carpet under the pedal bracket. We find there the junction of the brake pedal and the booster pusher.
Using a slotted screwdriver, remove the spring retainer from the pedal mounting pin and the pusher shank.

After replacing the device, do not rush to install the master brake cylinder, since before this it is necessary to check and, if necessary, adjust the protrusion of the rod, which we will talk about after considering the VUT repair process.

Video: replacing VUT

Repair of the VAZ 2106 vacuum cleaner

vice;
slotted screwdriver;
small hammer;
pliers.

We fix the vacuum booster in a vice in any convenient way, but only so as not to damage it.
Using a slotted screwdriver and pliers, we flare the halves of the device body.

Replacing the vacuum brake booster of a VAZ 2114 - step-by-step instructions

To replace the vacuum brake booster of a VAZ 2114 you will need a certain set of tools and materials. It includes:

Screwdriver Set;
Pliers;
Socket wrench for 13 and 17 millimeters;
Special wrench for brake pipes;
New plugs;
New fittings.

And so let’s begin the replacement process itself:

Removing the vacuum booster can be difficult due to the brake cylinder. Therefore, we advise you to remove it first. Another option is to disconnect the pipes from the brake cylinder and move them to the side for a while. Here you decide for yourself what is more convenient for you.
The cylinder is not the main problem. It is difficult to cope with the mounting of the vacuum booster. It's just not very convenient to do this. This is the design of the VAZ 2114.
Start with the valve - remove the hose fasteners from it, remove the support bush, after which you can pull out the brake pin.
Next, using a 13 mm wrench, all four fasteners of the vacuum booster are dismantled.
After all the inconveniences of the work done, you can remove the element and get ready to install a new amplifier in its place.
To do this, you will have to install a special mounting frame. The frame is tightened with a 17 mm wrench, after which the new component is installed inside the car.
If you want to make your work as easy as possible, do not forget to first connect the brake pedal to the booster with your finger when reassembling it. After this, it is much easier to cope with putting the vacuum seal back into place.

Bleeding the system

After carrying out any work related to the replacement or repair of brake system parts, the brakes should be bled. This will remove air from the line and equalize the pressure.

Tools and tools:

jack and wheel wrench;
key to "8";
rubber or silicone hose with a diameter of 6 mm;
a small, clean, dry container (preferably transparent);
brake fluid (to top up).

In addition to all this, you will definitely need an assistant to bleed the system.

Place the car on a horizontally flat surface. Loosen the nuts securing the front right wheel.
Raise the car body with a jack. Unscrew the nuts completely and remove the wheel.
Remove the cap from the fitting of the working brake cylinder.

Video: bleeding the brakes

At first glance, the process of replacing or repairing a vacuum brake booster may seem somewhat complicated. In fact, you just have to understand everything in detail, and you won’t need the services of specialists.

The effectiveness of your car's brakes is important - if the brake system does not work effectively, an accident may occur. To ensure precise brakes, a booster is installed on all modern cars; it ensures that the vehicle stops instantly when you press the pedal.

Repair of the vacuum brake booster is necessary if the brakes become “wobbly” and you have to press the pedal with great force to brake.

How to make a replacement?

Replacement is carried out using a set of keys and screwdrivers. The vacuum brake booster is located under the hood, so work can be done in the garage or outside. The replacement takes place as follows:

First you need to disassemble the wall of the VAZ 2110 engine compartment, then remove the frill. This element is attached using a seal and upholstery;

First of all, you should disconnect the wires from the sensor
Next, you need to find the fluid sensor and disconnect the wire block from it along with the VUT hose. The main cylinder will interfere with getting to some parts - its fastenings can be loosened, and the unit itself can be moved to the side;
Now you need to move into the interior of the VAZ 2110 and unscrew the four nuts on the dashboard. After this, you can disconnect the block coming from the “frog”;

Important! The most unpleasant moment in dismantling the vacuum brake booster is unscrewing the four nuts in the interior. To get to them you will have to remove several elements of the dashboard.

When the nuts in the interior are unscrewed, you can remove the vacuum booster. Due to the design features of the VAZ 2110, the device can only be obtained together with the pedal assembly;

The arrows point to the fasteners that need to be unscrewed to remove the amplifier.
The assembly can be disconnected after dismantling the plate. It remains to unscrew a few nuts that connect the VUT and the pedal assembly.
Now you can install a new vacuum brake booster. IMPORTANT: when installing, you need to check that the hose fitting is at the top and the pedal is at the bottom. The rest of the installation is carried out in the reverse order.

Repair of vacuum brake booster VAZ 2106, 2107, 2108, 2109, 2110

The vacuum brake booster (abbreviated as VUT) of VAZ vehicles makes the driver’s work easier - it enhances the effect of pressing the pedal in the braking system (TS). This unit consists of the following main parts:

valve;
metal case;
diaphragms;
piston;
rod;
powerful return spring;
a pusher that connects to the brake pedal;
protective cover;
flange for installing a check valve.

The body of the device is divided into two halves by a diaphragm, and the master brake cylinder is installed on the side where the vacuum is created. A vacuum (vacuum) is created by connecting this part of the housing to the intake manifold of the internal combustion engine, and when the engine is not running, the channel closes the check valve installed in the VUT flange. Air (vacuum) with the help of a rod and piston when pressing the brake enhances the braking effect, thereby making the driver’s work easier - there is no need to press the pedal with great force. After releasing the pedal, a powerful return spring allows the diaphragm inside the housing to return to its original position. When the engine is turned off, no vacuum is created in the system and the vacuum brake booster does not operate.

On VAZ-2106-07 and VAZ-2108-10 cars, brake boosters are installed that differ in appearance, but the principle of operation of the devices is the same. We check the serviceability of the VUT as follows: press the brake pedal and start the engine - if the pedal “falls” (lowers under the pressure of the foot), the VUT works.

The main problem with a vacuum booster is damage to the diaphragm. When the diaphragm is ruptured, air penetrates from the outer part of the housing into the vacuum cavity, and a vacuum is not created in the device. But the malfunction may not necessarily lie in the device itself - often the VUT does not work due to air leaks or for other reasons:

the “vacuum” check valve is faulty;
there is air leakage from the hose connecting the intake manifold to the brake booster;
there is no compression in the internal combustion engine cylinder where the vacuum comes from.

It should be noted that the vacuum brake booster on VAZ 2106-10 vehicles is connected by a hose to the fourth cylinder of the engine.

Repair of the vacuum brake booster of VAZ 2106, 2107, 2108, 2109, 2110 should begin with the dismantling of this unit, then the VUT must be disassembled.

Signs of a faulty vacuum brake booster - self-diagnosis

How should you check the VUT for serviceability without resorting to an inspection hole? This is done like this: when the engine is not running, you need to press the brake about 6 times. Then, holding this pedal, start the engine. The pedal should move forward a little, and if this does not happen, first of all you need to check the tightness of the hose connections and the operation of the check valve.

If your vacuum brake booster hisses, then you definitely need to check several places. The most common problem with VUT failure is the hose that connects it to the engine intake manifold. It is imperative to check whether there are any cracks or tears on it; you need to check whether the clamps are tightened. Also, the amplifier may fail due to internal parts, such as a valve. Over time, this valve becomes hard due to rubber wear, so the elastic septum may rupture.

You can simply purchase a vacuum brake booster repair kit and change the boots, sometimes this saves you from hissing. But this is worth doing if you are confident in the serviceability of the amplifier itself.

Signs of a malfunctioning vacuum brake booster include the case when the engine starts to stall. The first thing many car enthusiasts do is buy spark plugs and adjust the valves, but the engine still runs poorly. In such cases, it is worth carrying out a small check: close the amplifier hose so that it does not allow air into the engine. If the engine starts to work properly, then the problem is in the brakes.

Removing the vacuum booster 2106-07

Removing the VUT on a VAZ classic car is quite simple, and if you have minimal plumbing skills, this work is not difficult to complete. We remove the unit as follows:

we turn off the engine, disconnect the main brake cylinder (GTC) from the “vacuum chamber”, the cylinder is held on by two nuts. There is no need to disconnect the brake pipes and hoses from the turbocharger; we simply move the cylinder to the side;
we pull the hose off the check valve, while holding the valve so as not to pull it out and break it;
in the cabin, remove the fixing bracket on the brake pedal and release the VUT pusher;
then in the cabin we unscrew the four nuts that hold the “vacuum unit”, dismantle the unit - it is removed in the engine compartment.

Disassembling vacuum booster 2109

It is not difficult to disassemble VUT 2108-2109, but for disassembly it is necessary to fix the device. We disassemble the node in the following order:

clamp the “vacuum sealer” in a vice;
using a screwdriver on the body, we bend the grooves with which the two halves are held together;
when almost all the rivets are straightened, it is necessary to hold the outer part of the body - a spring is installed inside the device, and it can shoot. If the old diaphragm is put back into place, there is no need to push the screwdriver far inward, as the rubber seal may be damaged;
remove the rubber covers from the fastenings (2 pcs.);
dismantle the plastic casing together with the diaphragm and pusher assembly;

Typically, the repair kit for the VAZ-2109 vacuum amplifier contains a diaphragm, a cuff, a boot, covers (2 pcs.) and a valve. All parts should be changed so that you don’t have to redo the work later. When assembling a vacuum amplifier, it is better to immediately fix the diaphragm on a plastic casing, this will make it easier to mount the unit.

Repair of UAZ vacuum brake booster

Problems with the vacuum booster of UAZ vehicles can be identified by the following symptoms:

the engine suffers, and since on UAZ engines the vacuum hose goes to the manifold of the first cylinder, if the VUT is faulty, this particular cylinder is not completed;
a hissing is heard under the hood - the diaphragm is poisoning the air;
the brake pedal is hard and does not press when starting the engine;
There are wet leaks between the turbocharger and the amplifier (brake fluid is leaking).

If leaks of the brake fluid are detected in the area of the VUT, it is necessary to urgently change or repair the GTZ, but if the liquid has already entered the vacuum booster, most likely the VUT will also have to be repaired.

Another common malfunction in the brake system is failure of the check valve. This simple mechanism is very easy to check - you just need to blow into it. The valve should be blown freely in one direction (when rarefied air is supplied from the manifold), but air flows in the opposite direction with great difficulty. If the valve is faulty, it is blown freely in both directions.

How to adjust the brake system on a VAZ 2110

In theory, the parking system should be able to hold the VAZ 2110 when the surface is tilted up to 25%. If it can’t cope, don’t rush to a car repair shop, where you’ll have to shell out a hefty sum - you can provide first aid to your car yourself:

The tensioner locknut must be loosened.
Then we tighten the cable.
We check the full stroke of the lever (it should be 2-4 teeth per sector).
Tighten the locknut more tightly.
To be on the safe side, we perform several brakes, checking at the same time whether the stroke of the lever has changed.

In this simple way you can check how well the vacuum brake booster works on a VAZ 2110.

The wheels should rotate without effort, with the lever fully lowered.

Replacing VUT on UAZ vehicles

The amplifier is removed on cars produced by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant according to the same principle as on VAZ cars. Let's consider replacing VUT using the example of a UAZ-31519 car:

first of all, we unscrew the two fastenings of the GTZ to the “vacuum”, usually the cylinder is secured with nuts 17, without disconnecting the brake pipes, we move it to the side;
under the hood, in the area of the windshield, unscrew the 2 bolts of the VUT amplifier bracket, the standard bolts are 14 mm turnkey;
in the cabin, at the connection of the rod with the brake pedal, pull out the cotter pin; for this you will need pliers;
remove the connecting pin;

the two lower nuts of the amplifier bracket are located in the car interior, they are turnkey 17, unscrew this fastener;

pull off the hose from the fitting of the device, dismantle the VUT;
disconnect the bracket from the “vacuum” - to do this, unscrew the four nuts (they are 17 mm);
the check valve is not included with the part, so we move it from the old VUT to the new one;
We connect the bracket to the new amplifier, carry out the assembly - we install all the parts in their places.

Replacement of VUT

First, remember that repairing the vacuum booster is impossible. This unit is removed and replaced with a new one. In theory and in practice, some do. But at your own responsibility.

Now about the replacement itself.

Disconnect the brake pedal from the booster rod. The units are connected to each other by a pin. Dismantling is carried out in the area of the pedal assembly and here you will need a simple flat-head screwdriver.
Let's go and open the hood.
Disconnect the power supply to the brake fluid level sensor.
Remove the bracket that holds the hydraulic lines to the frame. A 10mm socket is useful, which is used to unscrew the nut.
Disconnect the brake master cylinder. To do this, unscrew the 2 nuts holding it to the vacuum unit. Assess the condition of the GTZ. If necessary, replace it too.
It is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic lines from the brake cylinder (master). The pipes are quite long, so they can easily be moved to the side so that they do not interfere with the work process.
Disconnect the pipe that connects the vacuum chamber to the intake manifold.
Remove the spacer from the front struts.
Unscrew the 4 nuts that hold the vacuum housing to the car body studs.
Remove the unit from the studs and pull it out through the engine compartment.
On the drive fork side, there is a seal with a bracket on the return of the amplifier. He secures the assembly to the frame with 4 studs. They need to be removed. To do this, use a 17mm head to remove 2 nuts, after which the iron structure is removed. Just pull it towards you. Be sure to pull the boot off the stem.
Install the mounting bracket and a new rubber seal onto the new vacuum booster. Now you can begin full reverse assembly.

Replacing the device

Reassembly

If you decide to dismantle and reassemble yourself, be sure to follow several recommendations when installing a new VUT:

The vacuum rod and the brake pedal are connected to each other immediately after the device is seated on the mounting studs. That is, before they started tightening the nuts.;
Experienced VAZ 2109 owners recommend applying sealant between the vacuum brake booster and the brake cylinder. This is due to imperfect design;
The vacuum rod, which acts on the main brake cylinder, may move during transportation of the part. Also, displacement often occurs during the installation process. Therefore, be sure to check this fact and install it correctly if necessary. To do this, press the rod all the way.

If the stem is not installed correctly during assembly, the brakes simply will not operate properly. The consequences are hardly worth talking about.

Features of repair of UAZ vacuum amplifiers

Unlike the vacuum amplifiers of VAZ cars, the VUT housing on UAZ cars is very durable, and it is not at all easy to halve it. You can bend the protrusions using a pry bar and a hammer, but this way the work is done in violation of the technology - according to the instructions, you need to rotate one half relative to the other. The biggest problem during disassembly is the “halving” of the body - sometimes these parts boil so much that it is impossible to disassemble the assembly. Car owners are advised not to press one body into another under any circumstances - then turning will definitely not work.

Another problem in repairing “vacuum units” is the low quality of spare parts in the repair kit; sometimes the installed parts are not enough for six months. Motorists advise not to do repairs, but to buy a new spare part, although there is another disadvantage - VUT for cars like UAZ-469 or UAZ-452 is not cheap, about 3 thousand rubles. As an option, you can pick up a “vacuum” from a foreign car at a car disassembly shop, whose mountings fit the main brake cylinder, and install it on the car by fitting it. The result is cheaper and more reliable - imported parts, even in used condition, last for several years without any complaints.

Adjusting the rod of the vacuum brake booster UAZ

Often, after replacing the VUT, problems appear, and the car no longer brakes as well as it did before with a working “vacuum system” - the brake pedal takes off at the very end, or the system does not fully release the brakes. The whole point here is the rod that presses on the GTZ piston - it may not be adjusted from the factory. This rod has an adjusting screw, which is secured with a locknut. On UAZ cars (we don’t take the “Patriot” model into account), we check the rod adjustment as follows:

push the rod all the way back;
take a metal ruler or feeler gauge to adjust the valves and lay it along the body;
We measure the protrusion above the body with a caliper - the rod should extend approximately 7.8-8.0 mm;
if this distance does not correspond to the norm, loosen the lock nut and use the adjusting screw to increase or decrease the length of the rod;
Having established the desired size, fix the screw with a lock nut.

Even on the UAZ Hunter, the pedal can “take” at the very end, and it has a large free play. It is necessary to pay attention to the position of the pedal - if it is too low from the floor in the cabin, it needs to be adjusted:

unscrew the brake light mounting nuts on the brake pedal;
disconnect the wires from the brake light sensor;
Use two 19 mm nuts to raise the pedal, press the brake to check the free play, and if the pedal is adjusted normally, tighten the nuts.

Checking the amplifier status

Even an inexperienced motorist can understand that the VUT is out of order, since pressing the pedal will require much more effort. Replacing the VUT VAZ 2110 is required if a hissing sound is heard when you press the pedal, and the pedal becomes too tight. The device should be checked with the engine turned off: the driver should press the pedal several times and then hold it in the depressed position. Next, you need to start the engine, and if the brake pedal goes down to the bottom of the car without strong resistance, then the unit is working properly.

If the pedal is pressed with difficulty, then there is a defect in the unit. To avoid having to disassemble the system once again, it is recommended to check the booster check valve and vacuum hose - these elements must be sealed and not damaged. The most common defects are:

Spring damage.
Hose break.
Diaphragm rupture or crack.