Radio tape recorder in Kalina: dismantling and installation

What kinds of mounts are there for radio tape recorders?

Different manufacturers use different types of fasteners:

• Using fixing elements on the side of the device;
• Using elastic latches;
• Using bolts or screws.

With clamps, a frame is used that is inserted into the “shaft”. The side walls of the car radio have special recesses, and there are tongues on the frame.

To dismantle the head unit you need keys. With them you can easily straighten the tabs or bend them. But this type of fastening has a drawback - the frame can become deformed.

The second type of fastening is more reliable - it involves the use of elastic latches. They can be seen on the side and top walls. These latches fit into special seats in the frame, the simplest and most reliable way to mount the radio.

In some car models, in order to ensure reliable fastening of the multimedia system and to eliminate the risk of failure due to vibrations, installation is carried out to the dashboard, or rather to the power elements. The dashboard is held on the pipe using metal corners. Such fasteners are used in premium cars Mazda and Toyota.

The option of installing a radio in this way is considered additional, but car audio installers often remove the corners, and installation is carried out without fixing elements. This option is not reliable.

Single- or double-din radios are mounted in the dashboard tunnel without any additional fixation. It is customary to mount the device on the center console.

The media system is latched with ordinary plastic latches. This is a screwless fitting - you can see this even on the Lacetti.

With this installation, the radio simply hangs and is not able to withstand even minor shock loads. There are holes on the sides of the device, but most motorists do not know what they are for.

It turns out that these holes are made for reliable installation of the device to the dashboard using corners.

This is a factory fastener that complements the standard fastener.

Rules for choosing an audio system

Before you begin installing the radio on Kalina, you should select it at a car dealership or hardware store. The choice should be approached carefully and carefully. And before going to the store, it is better to decide on your desires and capabilities.

When choosing a radio for your car, you should decide which music media will be used as the main one. This will help you save some money. If, for example, a car owner is sure that he will not need a CD or cassette player, then why should he overpay for a radio with these functions.

For those choosing CD players, there is one minor drawback that manufacturers are trying to combat - the loss of music fragments due to shaking during a trip. But progress does not stand still, and the mechanics are improving. The presence of ISO in the car and, accordingly, in the audio device will simplify the connection. The presence of a USB adapter will allow you to play music from various media.

Pioneer model range

When choosing a car radio, you should pay attention to the power ratings. They have a maximum and minimum threshold. Maximum power is rarely used, except in extreme situations. The choice should be made according to the rated power, that is, the one that is used most often. Manufacturers often indicate only maximum values ​​on packages, so when choosing, you need to carefully study the instructions (passport), and not the box.

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It is also worth paying attention to the control panel. It should be extremely simple and convenient, since it will most often be used while moving. Intricate designs can distract from the road. Convenient and understandable buttons and adjustable backlight brightness will only be beneficial. It is imperative to check the range of perceived frequencies. Since radio stations mainly broadcast in the range from 80 to 110 MHz, it is better that the tuner also has this range.

Pay attention to the number of outputs to the speakers and the resonant frequency, it should be lower.

Removing the device using standard keys according to the instructions

So, there is a radio and standard keys. But that's not all, you will need an additional tool in the process.

Required Tools

To work you will need:

• Keys for dismantling. Depending on the specific model and key manufacturer, there may be 2 or 4;
• Knife.

Sequence of removing the car radio from the niche

First of all, remove the front panel, and if necessary, then the decorative parts. On older models, this frame covers the key connectors. This is no longer the case with the new ones.

Then the holes for the keys become visible and easy access to them is provided. The holes can be seen on the side walls of the head unit.

Then the keys are inserted into special grooves - they need to be inserted until they click. In some cases, it may be necessary to force or rock the fixture from side to side. If a click occurs. You can safely pull the radio out of the mine.

If the head unit cannot be removed, it can be screwed to the panel with an additional pin. In this case, it is necessary to remove the dashboard to access the device from the back side.

Video

The video shows in detail the entire process of dismantling the car radio using standard keys.

How to remove a radio without keys

A popular option for dismantling standard radios is keys to other devices. You can also remove using plates, rods, mounting tape.

What tools will you need?

To work, you will need two pieces of steel strip 30 cm long and 1 cm wide. You should also use protective gloves. You may need a knife.

Removal process

In case of using steel plates, the steps will be as follows:

• First of all, insert the first plate into the key slot on the radio;
• Next, insert the second plate;
• Two plates are brought towards the center of the device and pull the car radio towards you.

It often happens that an inexperienced car owner cannot pick up the latches the first time. If it doesn’t work, then the procedure should be repeated.

Another popular method is removal with incomplete keys from other devices.

This is done as follows:

• They take keys from other devices;
• Push it into the hole until it stops;
• Move the keys in different directions;
• Calmly take out the device.

If you couldn’t find the plates or keys, you can use fountain pen refills—you need four refills.

This method is well suited for foreign cars:

• Look for four ballpoint pen refills;
• They are inserted around the perimeter of the head unit;
• After this manipulation, the radio can be pulled out.

The rods are installed one by one, but the most important thing is that the rods need to be inserted not into the gaps between the dashboard and the device, but into special holes.

It is in these holes that there are latches that will work when you insert any object into them.

You can try the original technology. This method is more applicable for radios with navigators:

• Two strips are cut from the mounting tape - width 8 mm, length 10 mm. Tape thickness – no more than 1 mm;
• The strips are inserted into the holes until they stop;
• Carefully move apart and release the fastening clips;
• They take out the radio from their mine, but they can’t let it go.

Important points

Any actions, especially with the use of steel strips and other non-standard tools, should be carried out as carefully as possible.

If the radio is encoded, then there is no need to disconnect the battery terminals before work. When removing a device, it is important not only to get it out, but also not to damage the connectors.

Video

In the video, the author shows popular methods for removing radio tape recorders without special tools. You can see in detail how this is done.

Nuances of installing an audio system

Dismantling of the standard audio system is completed

Without knowing all the intricacies of connecting the radio, it will be impossible to carry out the installation correctly, as a result this will lead to rapid discharge of the battery.

Connect the radio in parallel sequence with the red and yellow wires. This connection allows the system to be turned on and off only using a button on the panel of the device itself. Sometimes the radio circuit is specially designed so that the amplifier is powered in standby mode. Such a system consumes more energy, so the battery drains quickly.

What is the correct installation of a radio? To begin with, you should highlight 4 main wires, each of which has its own color and performs a specific function. The black wire goes to ground, the yellow one provides power to the memory and the audio system itself, the red one provides a signal to turn on the MMC, and the blue one turns on the antenna and other possible devices.

Before connecting, professionals recommend assembling a simple circuit that will allow you to connect the radio through the ignition, due to which the battery will be charged much longer. When working with wires and circuits, you will need to pinout the connector. This will make the circuit easier to work with and understand.

The circuit is assembled in the following order:

• two diodes are soldered onto the board - VD1 and VD2;
• the red wire is soldered to the VD1 anode;
• another red wire is soldered to the cathode of VD1 and VD2;
• both blue wires are connected to the VD2 anode.

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The joints can be protected with special cambrics - this will avoid breakdowns.

Before connecting the circuit, you will have to remove the radio and the slide; it is not necessary to remove the console.

All wires must be connected in the correct order:

• wire No. 1 is connected to the contact from the rear window heating button;
• The 2nd wire is connected to the multimedia system;
• wire No. 3 is soldered to blue, which is responsible for turning on the antenna;
• The 4th wire is soldered to the blue antenna wire.

The previously assembled board can be secured inside the torpedo with a fixed tie. When connecting all contacts, only the soldering method, insulated with heat shrink, is used. Screwing of wires is excluded. Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the battery.

With this connection, the radio will turn on only when the ignition is turned on, but if it is turned off, it will continue to work until the driver turns it off. Restarting is possible when the car is started again.

Decoding problems

Some manufacturers equip their head units with special protective mechanisms. They operate approximately 10 minutes after the voltage in the on-board network is lost. This is a protective measure designed to protect the radio from being used after theft.

The next time you turn it on, the device will ask the user for a code. If the kit includes a card with a code, then it can be easily entered; if there is no documentation, then decoding is possible using software for a computer or mobile devices. The serial number will be useful for this.

How to remove the center console on Kalina-2

VAZ offers Kalina-2 cars with two interior trim options. The first is used in luxury trim levels (where a media center is installed), the second is an integral part of the “Norma” and “Standard” trim levels. We will talk about what methods exist for dismantling the climate control module panel and the radio panel. Moreover, one of the considered options is suitable for the “Lux” configuration, the other – for more affordable versions (Norma, Standard). The dismantling methods in the two indicated cases are noticeably different. Let's start looking.

How to remove the center console in a luxury package

Let's say it was decided to dismantle the panels located on the center console. You can see that there are two of them. One is the front panel of the air conditioner, the second protects the radio and contains air duct grilles in its design. These two parts are not connected to each other. However, it will not be possible to remove the radio panel unless you first remove the climate control panel. Below it are metric screws (A, B) that secure the media center shield from below.

Central console of Kalina-2, Luxury package

The question arises, why are we even talking about how to dismantle the center console, since after this the car can be removed from warranty? Usually the shield is removed to install additional equipment (for example, a rear view camera). But connecting any equipment, the use of which has not been agreed upon with the dealer, will void the vehicle warranty. If you haven't changed your mind yet, continue reading.

The climate control shield is held in place by 4 clips, which are located on the bottom and top sides of the part closer to the corners. Having disconnected even two clips (1, 2 or 3, 4), you can try to pull the panel towards you to dismantle it. But if you have no experience working with such a mount, it is better not to try - you may scratch the outer surface of the shield. In fact, all you need to do is use a flathead screwdriver (some people use a thin-bladed knife and a screwdriver).

To dismantle the climate control panel, you do not need to first remove the control knobs located on it, if we are talking about the “Lux” package. The same applies to the “Norma with climate control” package. In all other versions, a stove control unit is used, the design of which does not allow removing the shield without first dismantling the handles. Be careful.

If the climate control panel is removed, all that remains is to unscrew two bolts and just as carefully remove the media center panel. Additionally, this part is secured with nine clips:

• Two clips are located at the level of the border of the air duct grille;
• Three clips on each side board are located at equal distances;
• Three more clips can be found on the top side (the windows they fit into are circled in the photo).

Based on the information listed above, you can try to dismantle it yourself, but it is still better to entrust this work to a specialist. It is advisable not to use a hammer, chisel, or grinder when performing any actions, as shown in this video. However, here we are talking about the “Norma” configuration, which we will talk about further.

Second installation option

There is another way to connect the radio, which will ensure that it is turned on not through the ignition switch, but using a separate button.

First, you should buy a suitable button and a contact block with the wires intended for it at any auto store. All this is not very expensive and will require no more than one and a half hundred rubles. Moreover, it doesn’t matter what the button is if the owner does not need order on the console. It can be from the main beam, or with a different image, the main thing is that it fits under the connector for spare buttons, where the plug is located. The only point is that it is advisable to choose a button with an indicator.

Mounting blocks for installing an audio system

If the wires of the block turn out to be short (and this often happens), it is better to extend them in advance by soldering. Twisting is not suitable here and should not be used.

The button is connected in the following way:

• connector A - for grounding;
• B - passes from the side lights illumination;
• C - removed from the block purchased with the button;
• D - powers the power indicator;
• 1 — battery wire (red);
• 2 - red radio wire.

In one block, two contacts should be soldered together - 2 and D. The button is installed without removing the console. It will be enough to pull out the corresponding plug.

Cut the wire that fits the contacts of the red wire of the radio and solder wires 1 and 2 into the cut. A and B should be connected to the same contacts from the rear window heating button or other similar buttons. Do not forget that during all electrical work the battery should be disconnected.

When everything is connected and soldered, you need to double-check the system and make sure that the circuit and connections are made correctly. Then the slides and the removable radio panel are installed in place. The last step is to check how everything works. Now you can turn the radio on and off with a new button, and you don’t have to worry about charging the battery. One of the nice features of this connection is that when you turn off the radio, all settings are saved.

If, out of habit, the radio was turned off with its original button, this is not a problem, because the indicator of the new button will still light up and remind you of the need to turn it off.

For those who have already installed radios on other Lada family cars, installing a multimedia device on Kalina will be a breeze.

So the first wish came true))) Today I replaced the standard push-button radio,

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on MMC 2190 with Grants-Lux. As was already written on the drive, the most difficult thing was to remove the climate panel... it didn’t want to come off the latches. But still, I managed to first snap it off with a plastic card from below, and then it all gave up)) The main thing here Don't rush, or you'll scratch the panel!

Well, then it’s a matter of technique. We unscrew a couple of screws on the air duct trim, carefully remove the panel itself, then the four screws of the radio and.

.Stop! I almost forgot about the antenna! We are looking for the antenna plug; I found it right under the glove compartment.

Then loosen the wire and carefully pull the radio towards you,

then we snap off a couple of connectors and voila!

Now we take our MMC from Granta, stretch the antenna to our plug under the glove compartment, immediately pull the USB connector into place, only in the reverse order. We insert it into its original place in the glove compartment

and pull to MMS. We snap the speaker and power connectors into place. We connect the MMC to the CAN bus. Since I’m going to install a rear view camera a little later, I immediately connected the adapter with a tulip to the rear view camera. It’s worth getting a little distracted here... Since I didn’t have connectors for connecting a camera and a CAN bus, and ordering it would take a long time, it’s expensive and I’m too lazy... I did it , as advised here on the drive, (many thanks to whoever came up with this!) took the connectors from the computer’s power supply, cut off the wires with the necessary contacts, after first removing the contacts themselves from the connectors. I put heat shrink on the contacts for insulation and carefully inserted it into the MMC connector on the required contacts. I soldered a tulip for the video camera to the opposite end (I pulled it under the glove compartment so as not to remove the MMC again later). I did not connect the camera control, the Crosses already have a signal on the connector power supply when reverse gear is engaged. Next, we put our MMC in place.

As it was written, the Grantovka MMS does not have ears with fastenings for screws, like on the standard one, but to be honest, it holds well anyway. (Maybe later, I’ll figure out something on how to secure it correctly) We snap all the frames into place. That's it!)) I'm going to connect the CAN bus to the wires going to the diagnostic connector, stripping the insulation and soldering the wires from the MMC connector.

Result: now there will be a trip computer in MMS with all the parameters! (It’s especially nice that it will even show the climate temperature when adjusting the temperature!), a rear view camera (when I install it), a navigator (when I buy a GPS antenna). It sounds better than the standard one , (this is my feeling). Later, maybe I’ll get around to changing the microcircuits of the MMS output amplifiers, they also write that it improves the sound quality, but that’s only after I install normal speakers... P/S: I took the MMS from my hands (the camera was given as a gift to mss), Single Menu was already installed in it, I just replaced it with another version. But that’s another topic.

Dismantling the console containing the stove control unit

As you know, some trim levels of the Kalina-2 car do not have climate control. Here the driver can only control the operation of the stove. The stove control panel is held in place by 4 clips. In general, the mount used here is the same as in versions with climate control, but you won’t be able to remove the control unit panel unless you first remove the three control knobs.

Let's say we managed to dismantle the stove control unit panel. Then, all that remains is to remove the top flap, which is adjacent to the air ducts. This part itself needs to be pulled towards you from below, but first you need to unscrew two screws (they are circled in the figure). You won’t be able to simply grab and pull out the panel; you need to tighten the side clips with a screwdriver. In fact, the entire process is shown in the video we've posted below.

Any device of standard size 1 DIN can be installed in the compartment intended for the radio. You don't need to dismantle anything to do this. It is difficult to imagine a situation in which it is really necessary to remove the center console panels, if we consider the “Normal” or “Standard” equipment. However, you can use the information provided here. Remember that the owner performs all actions at his own peril and risk.

Multimedia 7″ system on Kalina 2.

On Novaya Kalina there is a new multimedia system with a touch screen and a separate control unit. We first encountered it in the luxury version of the Lada Granta. There it is located a little differently, but has the same screen and functionality. In the second Kalina, the system was equipped with a sun visor. The control unit is located slightly lower, under the air duct deflectors:

Below is a brief guide to the main points of working with this system.

Specifications

Touch Screen Resolution:

800×480

Supported music formats:

MP3, WMA, WAV. If there is accompanying information in the audio file (logo, description), it is also displayed on the screen.

Supported video formats:

WMV with a resolution of 240x320 px. To convert your video files, you can use any available converter. When using an alternative player under WinCE 6.0 (for example, TCMP), it is possible to play common formats, for example *.avi up to HD quality.

Supported photo resolutions:

*.JPEG, *.JPG, *.JPE, *.BMP, *.GIF, *.PNG.

Supported storage media:

SD and SDHC (up to 32GB), USB (up to version 3.0, up to 64GB) with FAT16 or FAT 32 file systems.

How to remove the center console (panel trim)

The photo shows the general diagram of the fastenings of the central panel trim of the new Kalina. in red are clips that simply snap off under force. Blue - fastening screws that should be removed with a screwdriver.

1. Remove the control unit for the heater and air conditioner by unsnapping the 4 clips around the perimeter;
2. Remove 2 screws securing the top cover;
3. Remove the top panel trim by snapping 3 clips on each side;
4. We remove the overlay from the upper engagement with the panel.

The process of removing the plastic dashboard trim is also shown in the video:

Instrument panel removal and installation

On cars of the first releases, the instrument panel can be dismantled by first removing the instrument panel and other removable parts from it. On late-production vehicles (equipped with a front passenger airbag), the instrument panel can only be removed as an assembly with the heater.

Removal

1. Prepare the car for work and disconnect the terminal from the negative terminal of the battery.

2. Drain the coolant from the engine.

3. Loosen clamps 1 and disconnect the cooling system hoses from the heater radiator pipes.

Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew nut 2 securing the heater radiator to the partition of the engine compartment.

4. Remove the filter element of the cabin ventilation filter.

5. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four self-tapping screws securing the filter housing.

New Lada: Coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH) in Priora and Kalina: removal, installation, principle of operation and testing

6. Remove the filter housing from the air intake box.

7. Remove the floor tunnel lining and steering column lining.

8. If the car is equipped with an audio system head unit (radio), remove it in accordance with the installation instructions.

9. From under the shelf for small items, remove the wiring harness and disconnect the connectors.

10. Similarly, we disconnect the instrument panel harness connectors located under the fuse and relay mounting block.

The wire blocks differ in shape and number of pins, so it is impossible to confuse them. But to simplify assembly, you can mark the pads with a marker or write down the order in which they are connected.

11. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the nut securing the air duct.

12. Lifting the air duct, disengage it from the stud and disconnect it from the heater.

13. We disconnect the wire blocks laid under the air duct.

14. Using a 13 mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the instrument panel console brackets to the floor tunnel (the second bolt is on the right side of the tunnel).

15. Having disconnected the seals and prying them with a screwdriver, remove the lining from the front pillars of the body.

16. Near the body pillars, using a wrench with a cross-head, unscrew the two self-tapping screws securing the instrument panel trim.

17. Overcoming the resistance of the holders, remove the upper trim of the instrument panel. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the seven nuts (located under the removed trim) securing the instrument panel to the body.

18. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the instrument panel to the body. Remove the ground wire tip from one of the studs.

19. Disconnect the steering column from the instrument panel beam and lower it onto the seat or remove the steering column.

20. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the three bolts securing the instrument panel cross member to the pedal assembly bracket.

21. Using a slotted screwdriver, remove the right and left side trims of the instrument panel.

22. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the instrument panel cross member (two on each side).

23. Remove the instrument panel assembly with the heater.

Installation

We install the assembled instrument panel with the heater in the reverse order.

How to remove the radio on Lada Kalina 2

To remove the MMC of the new Kalina, first remove the plastic panel trim (see above), and then remove the fastening screws.

Now you can familiarize yourself with the sticker on which the radio model is indicated, and based on this, select the appropriate firmware. You can also disassemble the MMC to replace the standard amplifier chip with a more powerful analogue. Don't forget that you can connect a rear view camera or amplifier to the standard radio.

Tools:

• Small flat screwdriver
• Driver for socket attachment
• Knob attachment 10 mm

Parts and consumables:

• USB car radio Hyundai H-CCR8086

Notes:

The standard radio of the Lada Kalina was not installed in all car configurations. Where there is none, there is a plastic plug pocket (box for things). Connectors with power wires and speaker wires, as well as an antenna wire plug are connected to the box. Below we describe how to install a Lada Kalina car radio with your own hands.

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.

2. Using a screwdriver, carefully remove the storage box from the mounting hole.

3. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors and antenna connector from the storage box.

4. Connect the wiring harness connectors and the antenna connector (if provided) to the car radio.

5. Insert the radio into the storage box (until it clicks). Next, on the Lada Kalina, the installation of the radio and its configuration are carried out in accordance with the instructions supplied with it.

The article is missing:

• Photo of the instrument
• High-quality photos of repairs

Good day, dear Drayvovites! I’m not the only one who is interested in the topic of installing double-din radios in LK2, so, by popular demand, I’m posting a manual on how and why. Photo attached)

So, the other day I finally decided to pick apart the center console. I’ll tell you right away! The plastic, although it seems hard, is actually scratched very well by the tool, and with great effort it is dented! Fortunately, I have an insulated instrument, the insulation softened the load and made it more uniform! So I don’t advise you to pick this whole thing with simple “knives” and screwdrivers with bare “stings”, thank God, I did everything in such a way that there wasn’t even a scratch left, there is one, but it’s behind a plug, in general, little things))

Operation algorithm

Started:

• The front door seal will need to be bent and pulled towards you very carefully;
• The decorated plastic casing must be removed from the front roof pillar. This is easy to do - just remove the 3 clips that secure the cover;
• Now you will need to find two screws securing the air vent grilles, as well as the trim in front of the glass. The screws are on both sides, and to unscrew them you will need a shaped screwdriver (preferably with a short handle);
• We turn them inside out and take out the ashtray;
• After that, putting your hand under the ashtray, use a screwdriver to pry off the two side plugs. They are located on both sides of the emergency system key;

• This is done due to the fact that under the plugs there are two screws that are responsible for fixing the “beard” from below. We pull the lower part towards ourselves, but very carefully. You will also need to turn off all the chips, not forgetting where they were;
• We also remove the cover on the steering wheel and dashboard. The latter is held by 2 black self-tapping screws;
• We also unscrew the panel from above, using a 10-piece head. The panel is also secured with 7 or 9 screws, depending on the specific machine;
• At the windshield, the heater air duct sits on lock washers. It is better not to remove them, as the plastic rods will simply come off. For this reason, we tear them ourselves, and instead of them we use self-tapping screws during assembly;
• You don’t have to remove the steering wheel at all, although the panel comes out with some effort. But in order to reduce time, you can take such an adventure;
• The time has come to completely remove the torpedo, but we’re in no hurry yet. We carefully check all areas where the screws holding the panel could remain and unscrew them. We pay special attention to the side parts and niches;
• Carefully pull out the torpedo. It will come off easily if there is nothing holding it.

Let us note right away that it is easier to remove the panel through the passenger door. As for the method of draining the coolant and removing the stove, everything is done almost the same, except with some nuances.

After soundproofing has been completed, we install the panel in place. Don't forget to first pass the block with wires for the switch. We also insert the glove box light in advance using the appropriate holes.

Thus, the operation can be considered completed. Having learned how to remove a torpedo on Kalina, you can safely take on this work, even without the help of an assistant. On the other hand, an extra pair of hands certainly won't hurt.