How to easily remove the rear door trim on a Lada Kalina

How to Remove the Rear Door Trim of a Kalina Universal

After removing the door trim of the Lada Kalina, do it yourself
Door

Any car, including Lada Kalina, is lined with special decorative panels from the inside.
Remove the door screen from the door to install speakers or repair windows, it can be removed from the front or back door. Due to various circumstances, there is a need for this skin to take off , and here uninitiated motorists are faced with the problem of installing the door card from the outside there. In fact, disassembly is simple, although there are a few aspects to consider.

Why do the doors fly off the casing?

Most often, the front or front door trims are removed to reach the interior cavities where the power windows are installed. Although there are other situations during the life of the vehicle when it is necessary to take off

frame:

• install speakers built into door cards;
• in case of failure of electric window buttons;
• for disassembling glass for tinting or replacement;
• For repairing or lubricating windows;
• Replace worn or scratched panels over many years of machine use.

Lada Kalina entrance door maps

It is also impossible to do without removing the cladding during body work, when you need to weld rotten elements, update a paint machine, or carry out anti-corrosion treatment.

The note. Many motorists remove the gasket to add additional vibration and sound insulation to the body.

Rear door trim Lada Kalina

Preparing for disassembly

Unscrew the fastenings and take off

Door trim, you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

• a screwdriver with slots in the shape of a cross;
• long flat screwdriver;
• sharpened tool, for example, sewing.

Door disassembly tool

Since the Lada Kalina door card is supported by plastic clips (otherwise known as clips, plugs), there are warnings about operating conditions. It is strongly not recommended to disassemble door freezers when the plastic becomes brittle and breaks easily. Therefore, there is a risk of breaking all the clips when removing the decorative panel. Therefore, in winter, perform this operation in a heated or boxed garage.

Removing the rear panel door Lada Kalina Cross (Lady Kalini Cross)

It was easy to replace, except for one thing. It was difficult to get the handle back in place!

Replacement door handle Lada Kalina

disassembling and gluing vinyl boots Kalina

2 hatchbacks.

There are no summer residency requirements; remove skin even outdoors. There is only one recommendation: in windy weather it is better to drive the car into the garage, otherwise it will cause a lot of dust when opening the doors.

This is what a door card

Advice. In cars over 5 years old, the plastic from which the locks are made dries out and becomes brittle. Separating the Trim from the Door With a machine like this, you're bound to ruin some of the clips. Removing the Trunk Trim provided a video link on how to remove the trunk lining. Where can I find out more about how to remove the trunk lid with my own hands? So it's worth buying new ones in advance, 8 at the front door and 10 at the back.

Instructions for removing cladding in Kalina

The first three operations are the same for all Lada Kalina doors. The exception is the hatchback hatch in hatchback and station wagon bodies; the disassembly procedure is much simpler. How to remove the front and rear door trim on a Kalina Lada. Here's what to do:

1. Unscrew and remove the lock cover designed to lock the door lock inside.
2. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 4 screws that secure the music speaker.
3. Remove the speaker and disconnect it from the speaker.

Unlocking the blocker and acoustics

Advice. The acoustics can be attached either to the door card itself or to the metal frame of the door . If, after removing the speaker, you stick to the first option, it is better to repeat it when installing the mounts, drilling holes for the screws. The acoustics should be installed on the door, not on the trim.

Incorrectly attaching the speaker to the case

The further procedure depends on the location of the door you are disassembling.

Front passenger door

Here the decorative panel is supported by 8 clips, 2 screws for attaching the internal handle and two screws located under the plastic pocket. The disassembly algorithm looks like this:

1. Carefully support the awl with the edge of the plastic plug that covers the screw in the door , gave it away. Remove the screw with the second cover in the same way.
2. Remove both handle screws.
3. Pull the handle to open the door, turn the locking screw and remove the lever. Then succeed in taking off the whole pen.
4. Remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the door card
   , under the plastic pocket.
5. Take a flathead screwdriver and support the top right corner of the trim panel to close the first latch. Grasp the skin with your fingers and remove the rest of the cap by hand.
6. After removing the panel from the door, disconnect the wires coming from the power button. how to remove the door trim from the viburnum on the carriage door (rear). To do this, turn the screwdriver on the protrusion of the connector and pull the block out of the button assembly. Dismantling of the cladding is completed.

Passenger side panel removed

Advice. When you pin the edge of the door card

Use a flathead screwdriver to place a cloth underneath to avoid scratching the paintwork inside.

We independently remove the door trim from the Lada Priora

Sometimes an annoying squeak appears inside the car. As a rule, either the dashboard or the door trim creaks. No car is immune from this, and Lada Priora is no exception. To get rid of the squeak, you will have to remove the door trim. We will talk about how to do this with your own hands in this article.

When dismantling is necessary

• The car owner decided to get rid of the squeaking noise that occurs when driving by gluing the door panels from the inside.
• It was decided to increase the sound insulation of the cabin by placing a layer of sound-absorbing material under the door trim.
• One or more mechanisms located under the trim have failed (primarily this applies to window regulators, door locks and handles).

Removal sequence

The front door on the driver's side opens and the rubber panel above the power window buttons is removed. Under the protective panel there are two self-tapping screws, which can be unscrewed using a Phillips screwdriver. This pair of screws must be unscrewed

In the niche of the handle there is another self-tapping screw, which is also unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver. It is unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver

Three screws are removed from the bottom of the door. The door lock release button is turned counterclockwise several times and removed. There is a locking pin underneath it. It is neatly recessed down, under the door trim. The latch turns counterclockwise

Now the trim panel is held in place only by plastic latches located along its entire perimeter

The panel is carefully pulled back, and the tip of a flat-head screwdriver is inserted under it. Using this screwdriver, the latches are opened one by one. After opening all the latches, the panel is carefully lifted up so that its upper edge comes out of the window glass groove

As soon as the top edge is free, the panel is removed and the wire from which the window regulator is powered is disconnected. The trim panel is completely removed

All of the above procedures are repeated for the front passenger door.

This is interesting: Engine cooling system and its operation

How to remove from the back

Above is the sequence of actions when removing the trim from the front doors of a Lada Priora car. The steps for removing the trim from the rear doors are similar. There is only one nuance: there will be 2 more plastic latches on the rear panels.

Other nuances

During dismantling, the casing can be easily scratched. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to wrap the tip of a flat-head screwdriver with electrical tape.

Two turns will be enough. Practice shows: no matter how carefully the car owner acts when opening the latches, one or more of them will still break, because the plastic is very fragile. So it makes sense to purchase a set of spare latches in advance

And when purchasing, you must definitely clarify that the latches are needed for the Priora, and not for the Kalina (they look exactly the same, but the latches for the Priora are 1.5 mm longer).

As you can see, there is nothing overly complicated in dismantling the door panels.

All that is required is the ability to carefully handle a screwdriver. The most important thing is not to forget to disconnect the power cord for the power window. It is thin and breaks easily, and most often it breaks at the root, right at the connector, which seriously complicates its restoration.

Preparatory work

To dismantle the rear door trim on Kalina, you must have the following tools with you:

1. Phillips slotted screwdriver.
2. Long flat screwdriver.
3. Any pointed tool, such as an awl.

It is worth noting that there are certain restrictions when carrying out work to remove the Kalina rear door trim. Due to the fact that the door card of this car is fixed using plastic clips, work on dismantling the lining cannot be carried out at sub-zero temperatures, since under such conditions the plastic is most susceptible to destruction. By ignoring this fact, the car owner risks damaging all the fasteners. To avoid such consequences, experts recommend carrying out work on removing the rear door trim in a heated specialized room.

In the warm season, there are no special requirements, except for windy weather, when dust can enter the cabin.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that in Kalina, with a service life of more than five years, the clips begin to dry out and break. In this case, it is recommended to purchase new latches in advance, of which there are 10 in the rear door.

Rules for removing and installing casing

Although the process is not difficult, there are points to consider when performing these operations:

1. Before removing the door panel, it must be freed from all elements (except the clips) that may hold it in place. These include speakers, door handle surrounds and power window control buttons. Only after this can the pistons for fastening the casing be removed.
2. Depending on the design of the pistons, various dismantling tools are used. In no case should you neglect the use of pullers, as you can damage the fasteners.
3. After all the necessary work has been completed, we begin to reinstall the panel. First of all, you need to connect all the wires suitable for the panel so as not to remove it again. If the work did not involve changing the design of the door or trim, then it is necessary to match all the holes on the panel with the holes in the door and use clips to securely fix the panel in place.
4. It is much more difficult if the repair work has led to the door being deformed, making it impossible to match all the holes. In this case, you will have to drill new holes in the door, since if you change the location of the pistons in the panel, the old holes will remain and will be clearly visible.

How to disassemble the trunk lid on a hatchback and station wagon

The interior lining of the Kalina rear hatch in hatchback and station wagon bodies is held on by 4 regular clips, 2 special black plastic fasteners (installed after installing the panel) and 2 screws securing the handle. In addition, the panel is hooked onto a metal protrusion by two brackets located in the lock area.

Handle screws

The procedure for removing the upholstery is as follows:

1. Unscrew the 2 screws with a Phillips screwdriver and disconnect the handle.
2. Place a flathead screwdriver under the glass side of the panel and unlock the lock. Release the remaining latches with your hands, pulling the panel along the contour.
3. Remove the trim, lastly releasing the staples near the trunk lock.

The panel is detached from the glass side

Note. You need to start snapping the pistons away from the glass, because you won’t be able to remove the lining from the lock side without damaging the clips. This is prevented by 2 brackets hooked to the metal frame of the hatch.

The mounting brackets for the trunk hatch are located near the lock.

As practice shows, it takes no more than 10 minutes to remove the trim of one door of a Lada Kalina car. The operation is really simple, but if you lack experience, it is better not to rush, so as not to break all the fasteners and scratch the plastic facing panels. The door cards are installed in the reverse order: first, the clips are snapped on, then the handles are installed, and finally the plastic elements are attached. Don't forget to connect the connectors to the power window buttons.

What is door trim and its purpose?

Renault Megane belongs to the budget class of cars. The upholstery is plastic with textile inserts. The door card uses the same material and a pocket covered with textiles. After 2015, coupe and sedan models use expensive material in the interior, the panels are covered with eco-leather, and soft plastic is similar to natural leather and may have a rough surface like slate.

Purpose of door trim:

READ How to Remove Renault Kengo Heater

Sequence of actions when disassembling the card on the front door of Renault Megane

Before work, you must remove the negative terminal from the battery. Further procedure:

Drivers and mechanics at service stations note that disassembling the doors of the Megan line. the most labor-intensive of all the kits from the French manufacturer. The door card is held in place by only six bolts, but they all have different diameters, so you need to prepare four Phillips screwdrivers.

How to remove the rear door trim of Renault Megane 2

The window lift hooks engage the trim in the center of the panel. Three hooks are attached alternately to the trunk door panel. When installing, first insert the window regulator hooks into the panel, and then correct its position.

We remove the trim on the doors of the Lada Kalina - what is the complexity of the process?

The car door trim, officially called the door panel, is most often removed to access the window lift mechanism for repair or lubrication. Much less often, this operation is carried out to install speakers, install noise and vibration insulation, replace facing panels or perform body work. But in any case, sooner or later, almost every car owner has to dismantle the door trim. At the same time, many of them, without resorting to the services of a service station, do it themselves, since this operation is quite simple and can be done by most car enthusiasts.

Installation of podiums on the rear doors of Lada Granta

For most drivers, the standard sound system is sufficient, as are the speakers.
But lovers of high-quality sound practice installing podiums and spacers. The installation process on the rear doors is similar to the installation on the front doors. We carry out the work ourselves, the principle of operation is intuitive.

1. We clearly determine the size and shape of future speakers. For this purpose, we remove the map, apply speakers to the holes, and calculate the parameters of the podiums. How to dismantle the card on the Lada Grant is written at the beginning of the article.
2. We cut out the blanks ourselves according to the drawings or purchase standard designs in the store. We join it to the body with foam.
3. We connect the speakers to the block with wires; the manufacturer initially laid the cables in the rear circuit.
4. We install protective nets and check that they are working correctly.

Soundproofing rear doors on Lada Granta

The procedure is so simple that it will take no more than 15 minutes of free time.

• several sheets of Visalis, dimensions 500 mm x 750 mm;
• one sheet of Bitoplast;
• plastic corrugation for laying wiring;
• degreaser;
• any heating device;
• tools, rags.

Sequencing

1. Before starting work, the body element must be installed on the supporting structure. The algorithm is described at the beginning of the article;
2. We clean the inner surface of the metal structure from dirt, deposits, and degrease it with acetone and gasoline.
3. We check the condition of the vibration isolation pad. We paste over new ones as needed.
4. Cut out pieces of Visalis of the required shape.
5. Lubricate the moving elements with Lithol.
6. We place the electrical wiring in a plastic sleeve.
7. Heat Bitoplast and apply Visalys.
8. Assembling the body element.

Adjusting the rear door of Lada Granta

The first sign that the gaps are broken is the appearance of a loud knock when slamming, the rear door does not open well. You can adjust (restore) the gaps yourself.

To do this you will need: an impact screwdriver, rags, lubricant.

How to adjust the gap: step-by-step instructions

Initially, we carry out visual diagnostics of the body element and evaluate the places of increased (decreased) gap. For objectivity, we use a plastic insert, as a factory standard, 3.0 mm thick.

After diagnostics, release the upper and lower hinge bolts and lower (raise) it a few millimeters. If the back door does not close, adjust the gap again.

Sometimes it happens that the adjusting loop cannot fully adjust the gap. This usually happens after an accident, impact, or collision. Then unscrew the support hinges and complete the gap adjustment.

Removing the front seat slide

We move the seat slide so that the bolts securing the slide to the seat frame are visible through the technological holes in the slide.

Using a 8mm socket, unscrew the bolts securing the slide to the seat frame.

Each of the slides is attached to the frame with three bolts.

Remove the slide assembly with the longitudinal movement mechanism lever

We remove the end of the lever shaft of the longitudinal movement mechanism from the hole in the inner slide and from the hole in the outer slide

A spring is installed between the lever and the outer herrings. Similarly, we remove and disassemble the front passenger seat.

We assemble and install the front seat in the reverse order.

Before installing the lever shaft into the hole of the outer slide, first put a spring on the shaft and place the short mustache of 1 spring on the latch, then, squeezing the long mustache of 2 springs (can be tied with wire), insert the shaft into the hole of the slide so that this mustache goes under the slide .

Removing the rear door trim

Regardless of the body configuration or year of manufacture, reinstallation and repair of locks and handles remains the same for hatchbacks and station wagons. The order of work differs when repairing the front and rear elements. The arrangement of the parts is considered simple, so it takes about 30 minutes to reinstall one element. For independent work you will need the following tool:

• crosshead screwdriver;
• flat screwdriver;
• knob;
• head at 8;
• extension;
• sharp knife or awl.

Front door

The procedure for performing the work necessary to remove and install the outer front door lever on the Lada Kalina:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Remove the inner trim of the outside rear view mirror by first prying it off with a screwdriver.
3. Unscrew the locking lock.
4. Using an awl or sharp knife, remove the plug.
5. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the armrest mounting screw.
6. Pull the inner handle of the lock and unscrew the screw using a Phillips screwdriver.
7. Remove the inner lever.
8. Unscrew the armrest mounting bolt located in the niche.
9. Unscrew the two pocket screws.
10. Wrap a flat-head screwdriver in a rag and insert it between the trim and the door frame. Carefully pulling the screwdriver towards you, unclip the first clip that holds the trim. Also unclip all the other clips, there are 8 of them in total.
11. Carefully remove the trim from the iron door frame.
12. Disconnect the two wire connectors from the power window assembly.
13. Move the trim to the side.
14. Disassemble the lower link of the outer door handle drive.
15. Unscrew the handle fastening bolt located at the end; for this, use a 8-mm socket and a knob.
16. Disconnect the outer arm drive upper link.
17. Remove the faulty part and replace it with a new one.

Lubricate all moving parts of the lock drive and assemble everything in reverse order. Most often the tongue or pawl breaks. Experts do not recommend replacing the element separately; it is better to reinstall the entire assembly, since the lock rod loses its performance characteristics over time.

Backdoor

Step-by-step repair of the rear door handle:

1. Unscrew the locking lock.
2. Using a flat-head screwdriver, press out and move the window regulator lever lock to the side.
3. Remove the retainer and window lift lever from the shaft.
4. Unscrew the fastening screw by pulling the lock handle.
5. Remove the lock handle.
6. Remove the two plugs using a sharp knife.
7. Unscrew the two fastening screws that were under the plugs and remove the inner handle of the lock.
8. Wrap a flathead screwdriver with a rag or electrical tape. Slide it between the door trim and frame.
9. While pulling back the screwdriver, unclip the clips located along the perimeter of the casing one by one.
10. Remove the casing and set it aside.
11. Using a socket 8, a wrench, unscrew the nut that holds the handle on the inside of the door.
12. Using the same head with a knob, remove the bolt, which is located at the end.
13. Remove the old faulty part and replace it with a new one.

Lubricate all moving parts of the lock and reassemble in reverse order.

All of the above types of work can be done with your own hands, without resorting to expensive car service services. For repairs, you only need to buy a new handle and a set of clips for the door trim.

Unscrew the lock button by hand

Having turned the inner handle so that the screw securing it to the lever is accessible, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw and remove the handle.

Using a screwdriver with a thin blade, pry up two decorative plugs and remove them from the holes in the armrest handle.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the armrest handle

Use a screwdriver to press out the window handle socket.

Pull out the latch and remove it.

Remove the handle and socket from the shaft.

Using a screwdriver, placing soft material under it, we press the lower edge of the upholstery away from the inner door panel, overcoming the resistance of the pistons.

It’s better to start from the bottom, gradually moving the screwdriver around the entire perimeter of the upholstery.

Removing the rear door trim

The location of ten pistons on the inside of the upholstery

Install the rear door trim in the reverse order.

Remove the rear door trim.

We lower the glass so that we can unscrew the screw securing the decorative glass trim.

Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry up the edge of the inner glass seal.

We lift the seal up, applying the necessary force, and remove the inner glass seal from the inner door panel.

Having bent the edge of the seal, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the self-tapping screw securing the decorative glass trim.

Using a slotted screwdriver, press out the upper corner of the decorative trim and remove it.

Remove the lower part of the seal from the door.

We raise the glass.

Using a 8mm socket, unscrew the bolt securing the glass guide at the end of the door.

We take out the guide. Roll down the window

From the outside of the door, use a slotted screwdriver to pry up the decorative retainer of the glass seal.

To avoid damaging the paint, place a soft material under the screwdriver, for example, a piece of fabric folded several times.

Ford Mondeo Black Monderlak › Logbook › 015. Shvi doors. Removing the casing.

I've been waiting for the warm season for a long time. And so, sitting in the country, I decided it was time. It's time to make noise on the doors!

So, I’ll show you, using the front passenger door as an example, how to disassemble it. The rest of the doors can be disassembled in the same way: We pry off the plastic plug on the door handle (I pry it off with a screwdriver at the top). We see a screw under the plug. We unscrew it.

View with cap removed

This is what the plug with fasteners looks like.

After unscrewing the screw, lightly pull the plastic cover from the front. The power window button will start to come out. Pull it out and disconnect the connector.

Cover fastenings.

The cover can then be easily removed.

Without plastic cover.

Next step. We need to unscrew 6 screws around the perimeter of the door. Their location is shown in the photo below:

Once

Two

Three

Four

Five

Six

Nothing complicated, let's move on... Remove the decorative plug from the door handle, prying it off with some plastic. I used a card.

Carefully pry it off so as not to leave marks.

Exterior view of the trim to see the attachment points.

Under the removed cover, unscrew the 2 screws holding the handle.

The final stage for the front door is removing the podium under the tweeter. To do this, we begin to move it to the rear of the car. The photo shows the fastenings, everything will be clear:

Shifted podium with squeaker

Well, disconnect the connector from the tweeter.

Now there is nothing holding the door trim, we slightly lift it up to remove it from the hook along its entire length in the area of ​​the glass velvet.

Under the door card we see an unknown block (I think it’s somehow connected with the window regulator or the cz, although I don’t know):

unknown block)

We unscrew its 3 bolts.

Front speaker:

For some reason, the center of the front right speaker was jammed, but this did not affect the music in any way... But I still moved it to the door behind the driver.

Unscrew the 3 fastening screws and carefully remove the column. Additionally, it is held in place by 2 latches. I accidentally broke one. To make it easier to get it, we tear off the standard noise and stick our hand into the door hole, where we feel for the latch and press it.

We tear off the standard Shumka.

Everyone has their own soundproofing process.

I glued the following materials in sequence: Interior (as seen from the interior):

— Sheet (0.75×0.53) Vibroplast Silver 2

— Half sheet (1×0.625m)
8mm foil-coated splen
over the entire area.
The pasting was done in pieces that fit into the door hole. I left about 5 centimeters unpasted at the bottom so as not to cover the drainage holes. Even though the bottom of the door was smeared with Movil, I sprayed it one more time. Addition: I used Kerry Movil, so here it is.
After treating the bottom of the door, a pungent gasoline-acetone smell (or whatever this Movil is diluted with) was present in the cabin for the next several months. So I don’t recommend treating anything in the salon with Movil (at least from this company), a can of paint would be better. Internal pasting

External part (view from the salon):

— Sheet (0.75×0.53) Vibroplast Silver 2

— Half sheet (1×0.625m)
Splen 4mm
, glued together in one sheet.
— Standard sound insulation When applying the vibration insulation sticker, don’t forget to leave a recess for the pocket on the door card, otherwise you’ll have to tear off and build up a piece of the Vibra vibration later
. In this photo, I didn’t leave a cavity for the door card pocket, I had to redo it a little

Splen 4mm

With standard Shumka. Yes, don’t forget to install it, like I did... =)

Bitoplast 5mm was stuck on it

and cut to size. I put everything back together in reverse order. Everything went together without any problems, because... first cleared the holes for the mounting screws.

Covering the cladding with bitoplast

I also glued some kind of plastic thing in the front doors, coming from the outside door handle. And he foamed the braid of the door opening cable so that it would not rattle (see photo “Internal tape”).

I'm happy with the effect, now nothing rattles when listening to music (these plastic parts in the door (see above) rattled when driving and listening to music). The door began to close more silently, and when opening the metal rattle disappeared. It seemed to me that the sound had moved into the trunk.

Addition:

Based on the materials on the door, it took me: 8 sheets of Vibroplast Silver 2 (sheet weight 2 kg) (1406 RUR) 2 sheets (1×1.25) ISOLONTAPE 3008B with foil (750.5 RUR) 2 sheets (1×1.25) ISOLONTAPE 3004B (370.5 RUR) 4 sheet (1×0.75) Bitoplast 5mm (1420)

Preparation for dismantling

To unscrew the fasteners and remove the door trim, you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

• screwdriver with cross slots;
• long flat screwdriver;
• a pointed tool, such as an awl.

Door disassembly tool

Since the door card of the Lada Kalina car is held on by plastic fasteners (otherwise known as clips, pistons), there is a warning regarding the working conditions. It is strictly not recommended to dismantle door trim in the cold, when the plastic becomes brittle and easily destroyed. Hence, there is a risk of breaking all the clips during the process of removing the decorative panel. Therefore, in winter, perform this operation in a heated garage or box.

In the summer, there are no requirements for premises; remove the casing even in the open air. There is only one recommendation: in windy weather it is better to drive the car into the garage, otherwise a lot of dust will be brought into the interior when the doors are open.

This is what the door card lock looks like

Advice. In cars that are 5 years old or more, the plastic from which the retainers are made dries out and becomes brittle. When separating the trim from the door of such a car, you will probably ruin some of the clips. So it’s worth buying new ones in advance, there are 8 pieces in the front door, and 10 pieces in the back door.

Removing the console

Now we need to start sequentially disassembling the panel in Kalina into parts. How to disassemble the panel?

1. Remove the ashtray: pull it towards you as far as it will go and unscrew the 4 screws that secure it.
2. After this you can get to two plugs. They are located on the sides of the emergency lights. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry it off and set it aside.
3. We unscrew the screws that are located under the plugs. These fasteners from below hold the console.
4. After the two screws are removed, pull the console (shield) towards you, but slowly so as not to break the wiring. We disconnect the wiring, first marking the wires so as not to confuse which is which later.
5. Now unscrew the steering wheel cover. It is held in place by 2 bolts, for which a 10mm wrench is useful, and 5 self-tapping screws.
6. Next, disconnect the instrument panel cover. There are only 2 screws here.
7. The top panel is secured with nuts. There must be at least 7 of them.

8. As you can see, the stove air duct is tightly fixed. What to do? You will have to rip off 2 lock washers and unscrew the remaining screws, which, in fact, secure the panel in place. Only self-tapping screws are enough for fastening.
9. Next, you can try removing the steering wheel. If it doesn’t work out, you’ll have to work a little harder and find the remaining fasteners. In any case, we look for all the hidden screws and unscrew them to the last.
10. Pull the panel towards you. If it gives in, it means everything is unscrewed. If somewhere she doesn’t want to move away, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver and unscrew the hidden fasteners.
11. After this you can disconnect it.

That's all the instructions on how to remove the instrument panel in the Lada Kalina.

Tuning the instrument panel is one of the main reasons why a torpedo and its adjacent parts are disassembled. Lada Kalina is not distinguished by its bright design and interesting design. What can you do about it? Install panel lighting.

New Lada: Removing the cylinder head Kalina with a VAZ-11194 engine

This solution will help improve the visibility of indicators. In addition, the perception of the interior will change. You can also change the panel to another one or repaint its parts. Such tuning of the instrument panel is a radical measure, but absolutely justified. The plastic the panel is made of is simply terrible.

Dismantling the panel is a painstaking task, but the hardest thing is to then put it all together so that the panel does not creak.

You need to fit the parts well and tightly, then no sounds will occur. If you first mark the wiring, then connecting all devices should not be difficult.

Replacing the rear door lock and outside handle

The outer handle can be changed without removing the lock.

Removing the door trim

A very simple way to quickly repair a door handle

, no need to open the
door
, everything is done from the outside.

disconnect the door lock

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screw securing the intermediate lever of the locking rod, and remove the lever together with the rods from the rectangular protrusion, removing the locking rod from the plastic holder (shown by the arrow).

We remove the electric lock through the technological hole in the inner door panel.

Rear door lock with electric drive and rod assembly

Install the rear door lock in the reverse order.

Changing the front door trim

To remove the plastic door card, you need to have a Phillips screwdriver and a flathead screwdriver, as well as a set of clamps to hold the part in place. For the driver's door, the actions will be as follows:

• Unscrew the lock handle “1”;
• After removing the plug, completely unscrew screw “2”;
• Unscrew all screws “4” and “5”;
• Using a flathead screwdriver, similar to a wedge, can be disassembled from the bottom from the front;
• At the last stage, disconnect the connector of the wires going to the keyboard module.

All the above elements are shown in the following figure:

Front left door Kalina-2

For the right door you need to follow a different sequence:

• Unscrew the lock handle “4”;
• Remove the Phillips “2” screws completely by unscrewing them;
• After removing the door handle cover, loosen the screws “3”. Then handle “1” can be completely removed;
• Remove the upholstery in the same manner as in step "4" as shown in the list above.

It remains to wish you success. Installation is carried out in reverse order. All symbols associated with the list are shown in the photo below.

Entrance right door Kalina-2

Instructions for removing the cladding on Kalina

The first three operations are performed the same way for all Lada Kalina doors. The exception is the trunk hatches of hatchback and station wagon cars, where the disassembly procedure is much simpler. Here's what to do:

1. By hand, unscrew and pull out the cap of the latch designed to lock the door lock from the inside.
2. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 4 screws holding the music system speaker.
3. Remove the speaker and disconnect the wires from it.

Unscrewing the blocker and acoustics

Advice. The acoustics can be attached either to the door card itself or to the metal door frame. If, after removing the speaker, you observe the first option, then during assembly it is better to redo the fasteners by drilling holes for self-tapping screws. The acoustics should be mounted to the door, not to the upholstery.

Attaching the speaker to the casing is wrong

Instructions for dismantling the casing

The initial steps are identical for all doors, with the exception of trunks in hatchbacks and station wagons. First you need:

1. Manually carefully unscrew and remove the clips for blocking the door lock inside the passenger compartment.
2. Unscrew the screws using a special screwdriver with a Phillips head.
3. Take out the speaker and free it from the wires.

The order of further work directly depends on where the door is located - front or back.