How to remove wheel covers? What tools will be useful? How to remove wheel caps on a Lada Granta

Almost all economy and middle class cars are equipped with steel wheels at factories. They will forgive the appearance. To give cars an aesthetic appearance, nondescript “stampings” are hidden under decorative caps. As a rule, most cars continue to be used in this form. This is quite practical: the disc is protected from dirt, and the outside of the wheel is easy to clean. However, fragile plastic can be damaged if there is no dismantling/installation experience. Every car owner should know how to remove wheel covers and what nuances may arise during the installation process.

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How to Remove Wheel Covers from Lada Granta


Such a common occurrence as removing the caps from the wheels of a car is impossible to imagine # in cases where the same teeth are missing, this should not cause problems for owners who decide, for example, to replace a spare tire.
no questions. And so they come from time to time. The new one is inexperienced when, when replacing wheels, he is afraid of destroying such beautiful, but still plastic plugs. And to avoid cracks or scratches, they are not twisted into the navel to remove them from the disc. Much easier to install:

insert it and press until it clicks (we are talking about regular plugs without additional fasteners). However, remove the screwdriver and jack handle, knife and pliers. Who is far away

How do I remove the wheel covers without damaging them? Today they are used a lot. And tire punctures on the highway or in some uninhabited place happen to everyone. So the wheels have to be removed for whatever reason to get there. Unfortunately, in addition, hats that protect so well from dirt and perform a decorative function. Here are a few ways to do it fairly quickly and without even damaging the design.

Of course, take the jack from the trunk (and of course if you decide to change a tire) and use its handle as a tool. If your goal is there are no scratches on the plastic, use a small cloth to place it between the wheel and the removed cover. We work carefully and carefully, without harsh gestures, right down to the cap.

If the fastener is normal, it should come off the wheel almost immediately (usually a faint click). Then feel free to continue and continue.

It happens that the cap “sticks” to the wheel, as if it were somehow welded to it, if the wheel is removed for a long time. Sometimes this is due to sticking and drying of clay, for example, in existing gaps. Then the lid is quite heavy. In order not to break, we use the universal VD-40. A couple of buns across, and wait 10-15 minutes. After the procedure, the “stuck” hat bounces off, how nice!

Chrome wheel caps for Lada Granta Autoprofi R 14

Experienced car owners suggest the following removal method using a regular tool such as a screwdriver (flat end, not Phillips). Get a large enough size, but not the biggest one, because a small screwdriver will fit in the socket, but it will be expensive, and of course it will bend a lot.

We need to take the middle and thin end, insert it into the gap between the cap (where it protrudes) and the wheel. We begin to pull towards the center. In this case, the cap should only be removed by itself (if there are slots, this simplifies the task).

They also perform the same actions using a small mount that is located in the middle of the tools. This way they "rip" the caps off on some homegrown 100's. However, this method is only suitable for "real professionals" who usually sense when and where there is an opportunity to use force, in which case it is not recommended. Therefore, it is better not to take risks and spend time with such extreme sports.

It should also be borne in mind that the design and installation of covers from different manufacturers for different machines are fundamentally different. Take, for example, the abundance of secular “China” presented in the car market. It is characterized by low-quality plastic and, accordingly, the price is quite applicable to the trader. Moreover, some sales are universal and are used on cars of different brands, even American and European.

Alternative options

In addition to standard products, if you buy them or you can’t wait a long time for their delivery, you can purchase hub caps from “Ten”, Granta, Priora or Kalina. However, the diameter of the clamps of such products is too small. Therefore, you will need to arm yourself with a soldering iron and carefully move the clamps apart.

Wheel caps installation instructions

Do you want to know how to install hubcaps on the rims of your car so that they do not fly off and remain intact during installation - read the clear step-by-step instructions with pictures and videos

Before installing the wheel covers, make sure that their size matches the size of the rim (Figure 1). Information about the rim size can be obtained from the markings on the tire.

Point 1. First you need to thoroughly clean the inner surface of the disk from dust and dirt. If there are significant deformations of the wheel rim, they must be eliminated by straightening.

Step 2. Align the valve notches on the cap and spacer ring (Figure 2). The bend on the spacer ring should be facing towards the wheel cover (as shown in Figure 3a). Carefully fix the spacer ring into the specially designed grooves located on the inside of the wheel cover latches.

Point 3. It is necessary to adjust the diameter of the spacer ring by compressing it at the valve location if the cap fits tightly (Figure 4 a), or by stretching it when the cap fits loosely (Figure 4 c). Correct adjustment of the diameter of the spacer ring is the main secret of reliable fastening. The small diameter is the main reason for the loss of the cap (after all, it does not sit tightly in the disk). An excessively large diameter becomes one of the reasons for clip failure due to the inability to insert it into the disc.

Replacement

Replacing valve stem seals with your own hands:

  • Remove the timing cover.
  • Align the crankshaft and camshaft to the marks. Place the appropriate markings on the parts so that there are no difficulties with their placement after repair. Write down the location of the pipes and connectors to be removed.
  • When removing the camshaft, loosen its drive tensioner.
  • Device for desiccation of valves. The photo shows the process of removing crackers

    If the drive is chain, unscrew the drive gear and remove it from the camshaft. To avoid losing it, it is better to remove the key from the shaft groove and tidy it up. If the drive is belt driven, it is easier to remove the belt from the gear.

  • Unscrew the camshaft bed fastening and remove it from the head. Determine the size of the keys yourself. While the camshaft is removed, check it for wear on the journals and cams.
  • Remove the valve pushers: depending on the design, remove the rocker arms or remove the cups with hydraulic compensators.
  • Since the pistons of cylinders I and IV are already at TDC, it is better to start replacing from the edges. Because in order for the valve to dry out, it needs to rest against something; in our case, it will be the bottom of the piston.
  • On some models, the intake manifold interferes so much that the desiccant has to be shortened. Because it's easier than removing the manifold.
  • The correct tool for removing caps

    Take a desiccant. Fix its bracket, which is attached closer to the edge of the lever, to the bed fastening stud, and attach it closer to the middle with a ring on the plate covering the valve springs. With one hand, press the desiccant lever so that the valve springs are compressed and the plate moves down the rod, and with the other hand, take tweezers and use them to remove the crackers from the plate.

  • Place the desiccant aside, remove both springs and the plate from the rod.
  • Attach the puller collet to the cap. Moving the weight up along the puller rod, hit the upper stop with it - the removal of the unusable cap is completed.
  • While the valve is free, check the valve stem and guide for wear. To do this, grab the top of the rod with your fingers and try to rock it. If the wear is insignificant, then there will be no play and you will not succeed.

    • If you have a mandrel, it's worth using it. If it is missing, for caps on valves with a stem diameter of 8 mm, it can be replaced with a 10mm socket wrench. If the diameter of the rods is 6 mm, then a 8mm wrench will do. Valve seals must be made of fluoride rubber (so called sucking FRM).

What nuances might there be?

A tire puncture on the highway can happen at any time. In order to install the spare tire, you will have to remove the wheel. And for this, it is necessary to dismantle the cap. Initially, you should clean the surface. Try to move the decorative trim. If the fit is very tight, it is recommended to treat the edges with WD-40 spray or silicone grease. If they are not available, you can use water. For example, from a puddle. This will ensure that the steel hoop slides along the edges of the disk and the cap can be removed.

In what cases may it be necessary to remove the rear bumper?

Replacing a bumper as a result of an accident

Considering the popularity of the Lada Granta car in our country, as well as in neighboring countries, you can notice that more and more copies of this car are appearing on the roads. This means that they “injure” their bumpers very often. So, it may be necessary to remove the bumper in order to replace it with a new one.

Removing the bumper is also appropriate when you want to replace it with another model, creating a new image for your car.

Tuning bumper models

Bumper "I'm a robot" on Grant

The “I am a robot” type bumper is now popular, which takes into account many parameters, including increasing aerodynamic characteristics. However, such specifications are more typical for the front bumper, while the rear bumper exclusively improves the appearance of the car. In addition, such a bumper will be very easy to attach, since it is completely compatible with the factory mounts.

Custom rear bumper

The STM type bumper design will significantly improve the cooling efficiency of the brakes, which is preferred by practical car enthusiasts.

Installation of car hubcaps

Do you want to know how to install hubcaps on the rims of your car so that they do not fly off and remain intact during installation - read the clear step-by-step instructions with pictures and videos

Before installing the wheel covers, make sure that their size matches the size of the rim (Figure 1). Information about the rim size can be obtained from the markings on the tire.

Point 1. First you need to thoroughly clean the inner surface of the disk from dust and dirt. If there are significant deformations of the wheel rim, they must be eliminated by straightening.

Step 2. Align the valve notches on the cap and spacer ring (Figure 2).
The bend on the spacer ring should be facing towards the wheel cover (as shown in Figure 3a). Carefully fix the spacer ring into the specially designed grooves located on the inside of the wheel cover latches.

It won't fly away, it won't break!

Losing or breaking a cap creates certain problems for the driver. It seems that the item is not expensive, sold in many stores and auto centers. But the problem is that caps are usually sold in sets of 4 pieces.

  • If one gets lost or breaks, you will either have to buy a new set. Or search for a long time and, often unsuccessfully, for exactly the same cap.
  • If you bought “branded” caps from an official dealer, then the cost of a new set, or even one cap, will be quite significant.

There is only one way left - to make sure that the caps do not fly off the disk and are not lost.

Two mounting methods

  • On standard bolts that secure the discs themselves. Not the most practical option. If the disk bends during a strong impact, the cap will also crack.
  • The second method is simpler. The cap fastening stoppers are supported by a circular spring. With a strong impact, such a cap is unlikely to crack. He has the ability to move and bend. The downside of the coin is that after a strong blow, the cap can fly off and get lost.


Caps on bolts “BEFORE” and “AFTER” an impact Caps on a spring “BEFORE” and “AFTER” an impact
Different drivers struggle with the possibility of losing a cap in different ways. Some fasten the part with plastic clamps, others drill holes in the disk and screw the caps on with bolts. Both methods are, to put it mildly, not ideal. One degrades the wheel design, the other requires drilling a hole.

Everything ingenious is simple

But there is a third, simplest and most natural way to ensure reliable fastening of the cap to the disk. I want to tell you about him.

As I wrote above, the second type of cap is attached to the disk using a circular spring supporting the mounting stops. This is where the whole essence of this method lies. If, when you first install the cap on the disk, you find that it is easy to install and just as easy to remove, you need to take immediate action. That is, increase the supporting force of the circular spring.

To do this, take the cap, remove the circular spring from the clamps and place it on a flat, hard surface with the arcuate protrusion upward (in the red circle). Even a workbench or asphalt will do.


The whole secret of reliable fastening of the cap is in this arched protrusion

Next, with a gentle blow of the hammer, hit the top of this arched protrusion. Not much at first. You just need to straighten it out a little. Hit - install the spring on the cap and try it on the disk. If the installation rigidity is still insufficient, repeat the operation again. The main thing is that you must ensure that the cap is installed with noticeable effort.

However, you cannot overdo it here, because the installed cap will still need to be removed. If the spring is bent too much, the cap may simply break when removed from the disk. Therefore, be guided by a simple criterion - if during installation it seems to you that increasing the force “just a little more” will break the cap, then you have overdone it.

Hub configuration

Wheel caps Granta liftback

1.6 l 16-cl., 5AMT, 106 hp When all cars are alike. When the eye yearns for something unique.

How to properly remove and install wheel covers - Issue 6

Hello everyone) Now we will film

and install cosmetic plastic
caps
on steel ones.

The rear wheel hub of a Lada Granta car consists of:

hub fastening nuts,

Lada Granta wheel bearing,

To repair and replace the bearing, you will need the following tools:

retaining ring remover,

socket wrench (head) 30,

puller for pressing out the bearing.

Problem

Car owners have long noticed that the front wheels of the Lada Vesta are not equipped with hub caps. When equipped with light alloy wheels, this point is of little significance, since alloy wheels have caps, but standard ones do not have them. Moreover, this applies only to the front pair of wheels, since Vesta has rear hub caps.

This issue is especially relevant in winter, since on the eve of the winter season, drivers change tires, and not everyone puts back alloy wheels, because many prefer to simply install standard steel ones and ride on them all winter.

There are no front wheel hub caps on Vesta from the factory

As a result, dirt, snow, dust, etc. are constantly flying onto the hub bolts, which are completely open. In general, there is nothing catastrophic in this, but it is also unpleasant to look at such a picture. Yes, and difficulties with unscrewing the hub nut may also arise if it becomes necessary to remove the hub.

In general, Lada Vesta owners are divided into 2 large groups:

  1. Those who believe that the Vesta wheel hub cap is nothing more than a decorative component.
  2. They believe that this element also performs a protective function, protecting the thread from damage.

In any case, it won’t be a bad idea to buy wheel hub caps for the Lada Vesta.

Visual examples of Vesta wheel hub caps are shown in the video

Install the spacer ring on the caps

So, let's start with the simplest thing - make sure that the radius of the hubcaps matches the radius of the wheels of your car. After this, we remove the caps one by one from the packaging and install a spacer ring in each. Its function is important - thanks to it, the wheel caps are held very firmly. On some manufacturers' hoods, spacer rings are installed on the conveyor. We will assume that you happened to buy wheel caps without installed rings. It should be noted that the fact of installed/uninstalled rings does not indicate (in our experience) the quality of the caps themselves.

The ring also needs to be installed correctly

Firstly, you need to pay attention that there is a bend on the ring itself. It must be aligned with the nipple valve

On some caps (most often the closed type) there is also a designated place in the plastic itself, which should be aligned with the nipple valve. If there is no such clearly indicated place, then the bend on the ring can be placed opposite any slot in the cap.

Now we would like to draw your attention to the next point - the ring is mounted in the cap in such a way that the bend on the ring faces the cap, and in no case vice versa.

The degree of bending of the ring in the valve area - what the bend should be, you can estimate from the following photograph:

Installation rules - first we place the valve under the nipple in the hole where we plan to release it, then we move the tab away and insert it and see that the spring is clearly fixed in the groove. Then we continue placing the spring in all the other legs.

We would like to draw your attention to the fact that the special support system is carried out on higher quality, factory-made caps, which have proven themselves both in Europe and throughout the world, and are becoming widespread in our countries. After we have installed the spring, we try to see how securely it is fixed, and see if it is in the grooves everywhere

After this, we can proceed to actually installing the wheel covers on the car.

How to remove a plug from a sewer

If the plug is already installed, you will have to first look at it or try to pierce it.
In this case, the apartment is located on the top floor, i.e., if you disassemble the riser, nothing will flow from above. The plug is installed firmly, but can be easily removed from above, after disassembling the riser. As a precaution, I screwed in a through pin, now neither I nor the neighbors below will be able to install the plug

This is what the installed steel plug looks like from above.

Removed sewer plug, note the bracket. This plug cannot be squeezed out or pushed through.

To push it down or up the riser, you must first tear off the bracket.

A broken tee in the common riser in which there was a plug. Subsequently replaced with a new one.

Egor Trubetskoy – experienced plumber

How to remove a plug in a sewer with your own hands

Egor Trubetskoy - foreman:

Before removing the debt plug installed by the housing and communal services or management company yourself, you must clearly understand that your sewer system is a pipe from a common sewer riser, a tee and the riser itself are the responsibility of the housing and communal services, if something goes wrong and the case goes to court, you It will be difficult to explain what you did there. However, it will be difficult for housing and communal services to prove anything in court, unless of course you give them access to your apartment to conduct an examination. A judge may request such an examination, but from an independent organization. In short, you have to poop, you can’t run into your neighbors - what can you do?

  • 1) You can try to remove it yourself if you are sure you can handle it.
  • 2) Call a plumber to replace the sewer pipes and agree with him to remove the plug. Plumbers are reluctant to take such actions, but in this case, responsibility for the work falls on you, because you are the owner. Even if the master refuses to remove it, you can remove it yourself, after dismantling the old pipes and before installing new ones.

Rules for installing the cap

Before installing new trim caps, you should make sure they match the wheel size. The manufacturer puts a standard size on the tire, for example, R13, R14, R15, R16, etc. Next, you must follow the general installation rules.

  • The surface of the disc should be thoroughly cleaned from dust and dirt. If there is deformation of the disc edge, it is necessary to straighten the damaged areas. The seat can be lubricated with silicone grease or WD-40.
  • On the cap ring, find a recess (pocket) for the inflation fitting and align it with the valve. Attention, at the factory the hoop may be installed with the reverse side by mistake. The correct position of the pocket is its recess towards the cap. After alignment, the cap should be evenly placed on the disk.
  • If the spacer hoop does not fit into the seat, it must be compressed by 1-2 mm. To adjust the diameter, it is possible to reduce the width of the pump fitting pocket.
  • The cap, adjusted to size, must be placed on the disk, aligning the pocket with the valve. Press the lower part with your knee. Press the upper latches with your fingers and press the trim to the wheel. Then, with the front, soft side of your fist, tap the places where the remaining latches are located.
  • To avoid losing the caps, they can be additionally attached to the disk. To do this, you should buy plastic mounting ties and use them to tighten the trim to the wheel. Trim protruding tails.

General information about valve stem seals

Oil seals (oil seals) are part of the oil distribution mechanism in the engine. The presence of oil is the most important condition for work. But it doesn’t have to be everywhere. For example, during its rotation it is always in an oil mist. But there should be no lubricant in the combustion chambers. There is only a fuel-air mixture, which burns. If you add oil to it, combustion will worsen, which will affect the increase in gasoline consumption.

Removing coke deposits and carbon deposits in the engine: available methods. Self-flushing of the engine without opening, mechanical cleaning of the engine.

Replacing valve stem seals begins with allowing time for the engine to cool and for the oil to drain into the sump. Once the engine has cooled down, you can begin removing the valve covers. When removing the timing cover, be careful not to damage the gasket. To do this, do not pry it with a screwdriver if it is not removable, but rather hit it with your palm from the side. Replacing oil seals on a diesel engine is no different from the same operation on a gasoline engine.

Purpose of valve stem seals

Since the lubrication of the gas distribution mechanism is combined (the camshaft journals are lubricated under pressure, and the remaining components and parts are lubricated by splashing), a lot of oil accumulates in the upper part of the head while the engine is running, which even covers the upper edge of the valve guides. Therefore, through the gap between the valves and the guides, oil, if there were no valve stem seals, would flow in large quantities into the combustion chamber along the valve stems. Due to the high temperature of the head, the rubber of the oil seals becomes hard, and their working edges over time cease to tightly cover the valve stems and begin to leak oil.

When the engine is running, the exhaust valve is at high temperature. Therefore, the oil that gets on its working chamfer burns, and the carbon deposits from it create conditions for the valve to burn out (when a slag particle breaks off, hot exhaust gases rush into the resulting leak between the valve and the seat and the valve sometimes burns out along with the seat). The intake valve has a lower operating temperature; the oil does not burn on it, but flows from it into the cylinder. Therefore, the intake valve never burns out.

"MINI" stamped wheel caps

Articles/product code

:

  • for Lada Vesta, XRAY, Largus (bolt pattern 4×100) - black MK-6001548400-B, gray MK-6001548400-S, analogue of the factory hubcap Renault 6001548400, product code MK-6001548400
  • for Lada Granta, Kalina, Priora (bolt pattern 4×98) - DS-GR-MINI

Installation of the caps is carried out by simply pressing firmly on the cap. Place the caps on the wheel bolts.

Advantages over staff

:

  • reliable fastening;
  • change the type of disks.

Price

: from 630 rubles per set (4 pcs.).

  • for Lada Vesta, XRAY, Largus (bolt pattern 4×100) - link to Additional Shop
  • for Lada Granta, Kalina, Priora (bolt pattern 4×98) - link to Additional Shop

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Grant R14 wheel cap

Article: 21910310201000 Recommended price: 909 rub.

Original wheel cap for a stamped wheel. It will protect the stamped wheel rim from dirt and emphasize the individuality of your car.

* Information on recommended retail prices published on the official website of JSC AVTOVAZ (www.lada.ru) is for reference only and under no circumstances constitutes a public offer as defined by the provisions of Article 437 Part 2 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation. For detailed information, please contact the official dealers of JSC AVTOVAZ.

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