Replacing thermostat 2109 with 2110
With the onset of cold weather and a corresponding drop in temperature, it becomes cold in the car.
In addition, much more time is spent on warming up the engine and coolant to turn on the heater and heat the interior. In this regard, many drivers in the cooling system of the “nine” (VAZ 2109) replace the standard thermostat with a six-hole thermostat from the “ten” (VAZ 2110). Thanks to the modernization compared to the factory one, this thermostat has many advantages, and the main ones include the following.
First of all, it ensures more stable temperature maintenance.
In addition, there are much fewer connections on the clamps. Moreover, the thermostat is attached to the outlet pipe using a rubber connecting tube.
Please note that this thermostat is collapsible, so replacement of thermoelements is carried out separately from the body, and due to the shorter (5 cm compared to the factory) new thermostat, there is much more space. To remove the thermostat without spilling antifreeze, first the pipe on the throttle assembly is released and everything that can spill out is poured into a container prepared in advance.
Then you need to very carefully and carefully disconnect the hoses from the stove without spilling the antifreeze. The six hole thermostat is connected as follows:
First, you need to install a tube through which the antifreeze will be redirected back to the pump, the so-called “saxophone”. This tube is shorter than (VAZ 2109). Although newer cars are equipped with such a tube at the factory. In addition, you need to stock up on: clamps, hoses and gaskets for the new thermostat.
It is also advisable to try on the thermostat at the installation site to make sure that the pipes need to be replaced and, if necessary, to determine their exact length. Usually this is how a six-hole thermostat is connected according to the standard circuit, and there is also another modernized circuit.
The peculiarity of this connection is that after the heat is transferred, the coolant is directed back to the heat-sensitive element, cooling it, preventing the large circle from opening until the antifreeze supplied from the stove heats up.
As a result, the thermostat also takes into account the temperature of the antifreeze from the stove radiator, making the car warmer, and the temperature regime is much more stable, and a special tee is required for connection.
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This replacement has been described repeatedly on the Internet. Each option had its own nuances. Replacement is not anything complicated, but nevertheless, questions like: “What if it doesn’t fit?!” arise before work, given that the cooling system is a very important part of the car. It should be noted right away that everything fits and works reliably. Before starting, it is worth mentioning that on the Internet you can often find a diagram supposedly improved by amateurs (the order of the hoses has been changed), but here the thermostat will be installed as it should be according to its design.
How to make a replacement
After all the necessary tools and materials have been prepared, you can begin tuning the cooling system itself.
Removing the old thermostat
Installing a grant thermostat on a VAZ 2114 is performed in the following order:
- Turn off the car engine and let it cool completely (only required if the car was running).
- After unscrewing the hose fastener, drain all the antifreeze from the system (you should first place a basin or other container under the bottom to collect coolant).
- Remove the air filter.
- Remove the distributor.
- Loosen the thermostat hose clamps.
- Remove old thermostat hoses.
- Unscrew the thermostat housing and remove it.
- Using two nuts, unscrew the original studs securing the thermostat housing (since they are slightly shorter than required).
- Screw in new M8 studs 85 mm long.
- Apply sealant to the contact plane and install a new thermostat gasket on top of it.
- Install the thermostat.
- Coat all thermostat pipes with sealant, then put rubber hoses on them, securing them with clamps (before installing old hoses, you should carefully inspect them. If leaks or even small breaks are found, they must be immediately replaced with new ones - especially since they are few).
- Place a tee between the radiator return hose and the expansion tank and secure it.
- Wait about 1 hour for the sealant on the connections to completely set, then pour new coolant into the system (you can use old one, but it is not recommended) and start the engine, letting it run for a long time.
Installing a new thermostat from Grant
If the entire replacement was completed correctly and the new thermostat is working, then it will work at a temperature of 85 C and circulate the liquid in a large circle (that is, while the car is driving, the coolant will not heat up above this temperature).
As for the operation of the heater radiator, it will begin to supply heat to the cabin already at an antifreeze temperature of 55 C, and at a temperature of 70 C it will begin to blow hot air.
To conclude this conversation, it’s worth mentioning a couple more points.
Firstly, for the new cooling system to work correctly, you cannot turn off the stove tap. It must be open both in the cold season and in the summer.
Secondly, in the summer, when starting the engine, the temperature inside the cabin can rise very quickly, which will cause obvious discomfort.
There are two ways out of this situation - either remove the thermostat thermocouple for the summer (which is quite troublesome) or simply do not turn on the stove fan.
Pros of replacing the thermostat
If we take an interest in the reviews of the owners of the “Nine” who replaced the factory heating device, we will see positive responses. The most significant advantage is significant warming inside the car, which contributes to comfortable driving. Car owners also note the absence of temperature jumps; the air warms up more evenly and smoothly. An undoubted advantage is that the Granta thermostat is not prone to overheating. This is due to a special sensor, which starts the fan at a critical moment.
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Comments 11
Why is everyone so afraid to leave the stove open? Is it possible to regulate the temperature using a damper? The new type stove completely covers the radiator and there are no problems)
It’s just that an open stove, even if the air through it is blocked, still works like a battery, heating up everything and everyone around it, and in the heat of 30 degrees, having such a battery in the cabin is clearly not comfortable... ps I know that on many other cars the radiator is also in In the cabin there is no provision for a heater tap at all, but nevertheless, once every 9 days it is provided - I think it would be stupid not to use it.
By the way, if anyone is interested, I have separated the control of the faucet and the damper into different levers; if anyone is interested, look in my bulletin board.
I drove around for 2 summers with the faucet open, stupidly didn’t know that it was open, and when I disassembled the panel, I saw a dangling cable and therefore didn’t even bother connecting it) This summer at +30 I even turned on the fan so that it wouldn’t be so hot and there would be no discomfort didn't notice. It’s not even hot for your foot when you step on the gas, and this despite the fact that I have a high panel and the radiator is not covered with any plastic) By the way, on the Kalina the radiator is even closer to the driver’s foot, but no one complains about the heat) So I want to make an adapter, instead faucet and forget about it forever)
Well, there is one more advantage of a closed radiator - the engine warms up a little faster))
Well, this is the only thing that can be considered a plus, but in the summer it heats up quickly, and in the winter it is always open. If only when warming up in winter, turn it off, but I think hardly anyone does that)
No, not only that, I forgot to add one but a VERY important plus! In winter, when you drive a car all day long or on the highway, for example, it is very difficult to regulate with one damper - the heater of the nines has such a feature, with the damper you can only make it either warm or cold, and the intermediate option is not possible with the damper. At the same time, you can’t adjust the flap on your legs at all; you just have to open it slightly and almost outboard cold air already flies onto the windshield in winter, while hot air continues to scald your legs. And here the heater tap comes to the rescue, thanks to it you can reduce the heat in all nozzles at the same time, and you can at least somehow adjust it from slightly reduced to almost barely warm, that is, in some way you can somehow adjust the acceptable temperature and not like using a damper - either too hot or too cold
