Good day, dear car enthusiasts! Each of us is always concerned about how long this or that part or car system will last. It `s naturally. Especially considering the quality of some products, the “skills” of workers, etc.
This issue fully concerns the car’s clutch. Very often on motorist forums there is a serious question about when to change the clutch, and how to know when the time has come to replace it. So let’s try to figure out together what the actual service life of the clutch is, and whether it exists at all.
Is there a certain clutch resource?
Whether or not you will be upset when you find out that the manufacturer does not indicate specific figures for clutch service life. If, for example, in the brake system, it is clearly stated that the thickness of the brake disc should be such and such, then why is this not applicable to the clutch?
The fact is that clutch wear depends on many reasons, and first of all, of course, on how the driver changes gears and in what mode the clutch is used.
And while clutch disc thickness cannot be measured the same way brake disc thickness can be measured with a caliper, there are ways to measure it. There are two of them.
- The first way to measure the thickness of the clutch disc is with a special measuring gauge. This method does not require dismantling the clutch; it is performed on a lift. But you are unlikely to use it.
- the second method is simpler to implement and allows you to determine the wear of the clutch disc in order to replace it. Replacing the driven disk is a procedure provided by the manufacturer, because The driven disk is a consumable part. The check is carried out as follows: with the engine running, you need to put it in high gear, accelerate it, and if the car does not stall, this means that the driven disk is worn out and requires replacement. It must be remembered that such a check of the thickness of the clutch disc is not technologically correct, but it is effective and allows you to determine the condition of the disc extremely accurately.
As already mentioned, the life of any clutch is determined by its operating conditions. Without going into technical details of the interaction of clutch parts, you should understand that basically the life of the clutch and the wear rate of the discs depend only on the driver.
A clutch of the same quality and manufacturer can last 5,000 km for one driver, and 100,000 for another. Participation in drag racing, frequent slipping, abrupt starting at high speeds, ingress of foreign liquids and objects, unqualified installation and adjustment clutch - all this reduces the life of the clutch.
How to check the clutch?
The clutch is checked using already proven and reliable folk methods, and only by them. Naturally, in addition to disassembling the clutch. We are talking about how you can check the clutch of your car yourself, and then decide whether you need a more in-depth diagnostic with dismantling the clutch mechanism.
Lada Priora
The basic “Norma” package includes a driver’s airbag, ESD, central locking, electric front windows, immobilizer, on-board computer and headlight range control. The “Lux” variation is significantly richer. It includes air conditioning, electric windows on all doors, and an airbag for the front passenger. The main advantage of the luxury package is the presence of ABS and EBD. In addition, it received front fog lights, alloy wheels and parking sensors. Initially, the Lada Priora was produced only with a sedan body, in 2008 a hatchback was released, and a year later a station wagon also went on sale. Finally, last year the plant presented a coupe. By the way, any type of body is given a 6-year guarantee against through corrosion.
Lada Priora
As for the frequency of maintenance, the service interval is 15 thousand km. However, the first maintenance visit should be made already at 2-3 thousand. During routine maintenance, the main attention is paid to checking and broaching various units and components. Naturally, each scheduled maintenance will require changing the engine oil and filters - both oil and air. At each maintenance, mandatory adjustment of the gaps in the gas distribution mechanism of an 8-valve engine is prescribed. The 16-valve engine is not so whimsical.
For once: how to properly adjust the clutch on a Priora yourself?
If the numbers do not correspond to the norm, then you need to set the desired size by rotating the leash. After each adjustment, press and release the clutch pedal three or four times for the auto-adjustment mechanism to work.
Additionally, you need to check the full pedal travel, which should be at 135-145 mm , but not more than 160 mm . Measurements are taken using a ruler, tape measure or caliper. When installing the tip driver back onto the fork, the contact area should be treated with Litol-24 lubricant.
Lada Priora
A mileage of 60 thousand km is critical for the generator drive belt, all engine filter elements and spark plugs. Most likely, at this mileage you will have to flush the throttle pipe and idle air control. Typical symptoms of a malfunction are floating idle speed and jerking of the car during acceleration.
75 thousand kilometers - time to replace the timing belt on an 8-valve engine. In addition, according to the service regulations, such a mileage will become critical for the oxygen sensor, and will also require replacing the fluid in the engine cooling system.
Lada Priora
According to the maintenance card, the gearbox oil needs to be changed every 75 thousand km or after 5 years. There is no reason to shorten the service interval. One piece of advice: for TO-1 it is better to change the factory oil to synthetic or semi-synthetic. Believe me, it won't hurt.
In general, the transmission is quite tenacious. The service life of the clutch largely depends on operating conditions and driving style. On average it is 60–100 thousand km. The clutch assembly is replaced - disc, basket, release bearing. In special cases, the flywheel may also require replacement. But this is rather an exception to the rule.
When to change and how to check the clutch - its service life may have come to an end
Good day, dear car enthusiasts! Each of us is always concerned about how long this or that part or car system will last. It `s naturally. Especially considering the quality of some products, the “skills” of workers, etc.
This issue fully concerns the car’s clutch. Very often on motorist forums there is a serious question about when to change the clutch, and how to know when the time has come to replace it. So let’s try to figure out together what the actual service life of the clutch is, and whether it exists at all.
Is there a certain clutch resource?
How to replace the clutch in a VAZ-2110
Whether or not you will be upset when you find out that the manufacturer does not indicate specific figures for clutch service life. If, for example, in the brake system, it is clearly stated that the thickness of the brake disc should be such and such, then why is this not applicable to the clutch?
The fact is that clutch wear depends on many reasons, and first of all, of course, on how the driver changes gears and in what mode the clutch is used.
And while clutch disc thickness cannot be measured the same way brake disc thickness can be measured with a caliper, there are ways to measure it. There are two of them.
- The first way to measure the thickness of the clutch disc is with a special measuring gauge. This method does not require dismantling the clutch; it is performed on a lift. But you are unlikely to use it.
- the second method is simpler to implement and allows you to determine the wear of the clutch disc in order to replace it. Replacing the driven disk is a procedure provided by the manufacturer, because The driven disk is a consumable part. The check is carried out as follows: with the engine running, you need to put it in high gear, accelerate it, and if the car does not stall, this means that the driven disk is worn out and requires replacement. It must be remembered that such a check of the thickness of the clutch disc is not technologically correct, but it is effective and allows you to determine the condition of the disc extremely accurately.
As already mentioned, the life of any clutch is determined by its operating conditions. Without going into technical details of the interaction of clutch parts, you should understand that basically the life of the clutch and the wear rate of the discs depend only on the driver.
A clutch of the same quality and manufacturer can last 5,000 km for one driver, and 100,000 for another. Participation in drag racing, frequent slipping, abrupt starting at high speeds, ingress of foreign liquids and objects, unqualified installation and adjustment clutch - all this reduces the life of the clutch.
How to check the clutch?
The clutch is checked using already proven and reliable folk methods, and only by them. Naturally, in addition to disassembling the clutch. We are talking about how you can check the clutch of your car yourself, and then decide whether you need a more in-depth diagnostic with dismantling the clutch mechanism.
So, let's start checking the clutch on the main points.
Clutch slippage. Those. again we are talking about wear on the driven disk when it is not fully pressed against the flywheel, which means there is no full clutch.
- We put the car on the handbrake and start the engine;
- engage a higher gear: 3rd or 4th;
- slowly depress the clutch and “give” the gas;
- When the handbrake is adjusted, the car engine should stall. If this does not happen, then it is time to think about replacing the clutch disc.
The clutch “drives” , i.e. it doesn't turn off completely. This malfunction is accompanied by difficult gear shifting, or extraneous noises and sounds when changing gears. And the gearbox is hardly to blame here. Checking the clutch.
- the engine is idling;
- Depress the clutch pedal completely and engage first or reverse gear;
- If the gear is engaged with uncharacteristic effort, and at the same time you hear extraneous sounds, then the driven disk does not completely move away from the flywheel, i.e. the clutch “drives”;
- you need to pump the hydraulics and adjust the free play of the clutch pedal;
- check again, if nothing has changed, then it’s time to go to a car service for a more in-depth diagnosis of the clutch.
Using these simple methods, you can independently check the clutch before it fails at the most inopportune moment. Timely diagnostics, and even better - correct operation, will increase the life of the clutch, or take timely measures to eliminate malfunctions.
Good luck on your journey.
Source: https://cartore.ru/153-kogda-menyat-sceplenie-srok-sluzhby-i-kak-proverit.html
CHASSIS
The car received front and rear shock absorbers with improved characteristics. This had a positive effect not only on driving performance, but also on the life of the suspension. Nevertheless, no one, of course, canceled the regulations. Scheduled maintenance comes down to diagnosing the condition of suspension components and assemblies, periodically adjusting the angles of the front wheels (every 30 thousand km), regularly checking the condition of the brake system and scanner diagnostics of the electric power steering. Every 45 thousand kilometers, or every 3 years, the fluid in the brake system must be changed. Of course, there are some negative points here too. So, most likely, even before the first hundred thousand kilometers, ball joints, steering tips and wheel bearings will remind you of themselves. Their resource, as a rule, is limited to 60 thousand km.
Step-by-step check of mechanical clutch
We get into the car, raise the handbrake up. We turn off all devices (acoustics, fans, etc.) that make sounds. There should be complete silence in the cabin. To prevent extraneous sounds from causing interference, it is also recommended to close the doors and roll up the car windows.
With the engine turned off, press the clutch. The pedal release should occur smoothly, without any significant dips and also without grinding or squeaking. If you catch noises, you need to understand where they are coming from. Is it the return spring (in this case, it will need to be adjusted or replaced).
If a car uses a cable, then noise and grinding noises can come from it (as, for example, in Tavria). This may mean that the cable may soon break and the clutch pedal will no longer be depressed at all. In any case, adjustments and adjustments will not hurt.
Next, we start the engine itself. Without changing gears, in neutral we try to press the clutch pedal again. If you notice noise or rustling noise, this may mean that the release bearing is about to expire. Again, in the case of such a drive, sometimes the cable makes noise, requiring replacement or being quite worn.
Nikita Kotrovsky
Lada Priora is a fairly practical purchase. Good technical characteristics coupled with acceptable performance characteristics determined the popularity of this car. The key to peace of mind over time is timely, high-quality maintenance and, of course, careful operation.
Nikita Kotrovsky , editor
Communities › Lada Priora Club › Blog › how long does the clutch last?
Hi all. Guys, how long does the factory clutch last on a Prior? My mileage is 109,000 km and there is an option with a new clutch for free. So I’m puzzled, is it worth changing or not?
Tags: prior clutch
250 thousand passed natively. When they changed the service, they said that this couldn’t happen!
The old Priora has the entire factory clutch 120k, but it’s time to change it, or else!
I changed mine at 80 when I was tuning the gearbox, but I think it would have worked until 100. I advise you to think about replacing it already, otherwise you can still get into trouble with the flywheel
Check clutch discs for wear.
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Why was the clutch on the Lada Grant only enough for 50 thousand!?
Clutch Kit Parts
in a car that has covered 50 thousand km. Let's see what the details look like. My…
I changed it to 150 current because the box was removed, the clutch was in good condition, it went through even more easily)
They changed it for 180,000, but the basket was covered, the disk was changed for the company.
It's worth it for free!
114,000 - it’s already slipping. It all depends on your driving style and where you drive. So take it, it might come in handy =))
Actually, the clutch is checked “Classically”! Turn on 3rd and start moving. if he eats. That means she's fucked! If it crashes everything is ok!6)
165 thousand, original clutch
If there are no problems, don't interfere with the machine's operation.
If there are no problems, don't interfere with the machine's operation.
If you get a clutch kit (disc, basket, release) for free, then take it and put it in the garage, and change it if necessary. There’s no point in flattery ahead of time.
as long as it goes, so much goes! Change it if you want, don't change it if you want!
The check is elementary, you stand still and start at high speeds with axlebox, if the tires light up and go away normally, it means it’s still working! If it starts hard without axleboxes, it means it’s dead!
Replacement without removing the gearbox
This process is not too different from the first, as it seems at first glance. The preparation and tools are the same. However, in this case there is one big advantage - there is no need to move the rather heavy gearbox. This is especially true if one person is responsible for replacing the clutch.
In this case, the analysis should begin by removing the left wheel and placing the car on a jack. It is best to do this in a box where there is an inspection hole. In addition to the first points indicated in the first case, it is necessary to remove the air filter, unscrew the corrugation, disconnect the DMVR, and loosen the starter fastenings.
You will have to unscrew the gearbox, but there is no need to touch the CV joints. Since in the process of disconnecting all of the above, the bolts holding the engine will be loosened, you need to place bricks under it so as not to break the hoses. Likewise, you will have to move the gearbox slightly onto the brick stand.
Now the clutch can be changed as described above. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this.