Replacing the engine pump for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 16 cl. without removing the generator drive

The pump belongs to the vehicle's cooling system. In its unit, this part is the second most likely to break down. On a VAZ-2112 with a 16-valve engine, replacing the pump is quite easy, so even a novice motorist can do it.

The pump promotes stable circulation of coolant in the vehicle system. Therefore, if it malfunctions, leaks of this substance are possible, and air often gets into the system, which is very bad. It is much less common for valves to bend and the pump to jam, which may require a complete engine repair if we are talking about the 21120 model.

Step-by-step replacement of a VAZ-2112 pump 16 valves

The pump belongs to the vehicle's cooling system. In its unit, this part is the second most likely to break down. On a VAZ-2112 with a 16-valve engine, replacing the pump is quite easy, so even a novice motorist can do it. The pump promotes stable circulation of coolant in the vehicle system. Therefore, if it malfunctions, leaks of this substance are possible, and air often gets into the system, which is very bad. It is much less common for valves to bend and the pump to jam, which may require a complete engine repair if we are talking about the 21120 model.

Replacing the rear

It should be noted that the clutch discs may become oily due to a leak through the gearbox input shaft oil seal, or due to the rear crankshaft oil seal.

The smells of oil from the engine and transmission are different, so many experienced specialists can use the smell to determine which element is causing problems.

There is also a visual method of determination. To do this, take any container, pour some water into it, or simply use a puddle near your garage. Drop oil leaking on the clutch discs into the water and monitor its behavior. If the oil spreads and turns into a rainbow film, it is gearbox oil. And if the oil remains in the water in the form of a grain-like drop, we are talking about motor lubricating fluid.

Changing the rear oil seal is actually somewhat more difficult than changing the front oil seal. But this does not take away the fact that it is still more than possible to do the work with your own hands.

Disassembled

Following the instructions step by step, replacing the crankshaft oil seal on a VAZ 2114 will become a fairly simple task for you, which will add to your experience in repairing a car yourself.

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery of your VAZ 2114.
2. Make notes on the location of the flywheel relative to the crankshaft, and then remove it.
3. Next, the rear shield of the clutch housing is removed from the guide bushings.
4. The next step is to remove the eight bolts that are responsible for securing the oil seal.
5. This will allow you to remove the holder.
6. The oil seal is pressed out of its holder.
7. The new element is installed in place of the old one until it stops. Here you will need a mandrel again. Its outer diameter is 99 millimeters. Press in the element so that its working edge points inward.
8. To make pressing easier, a chamfer is made on the seating edge of the element using a needle file. An alternative tool for bevelling is a small sanding wheel.
9. Now we change the gasket, which is probably torn on the holder. Even if the old gasket looks fine, we strongly recommend replacing it with a new one.
10. The gasket is glued with a special thick lubricant. This will ensure the strength of its retention, as well as additional tightness of the connection.
11. The working edge of the pressed-in oil seal is treated with regular engine oil, as is the case with the front one.
12. The crankshaft flange is subjected to similar processing.
13. The fasteners of the engine oil sump to the cylinder block will need to be loosened slightly. To do this, it is enough to make 2-3 turns on each of the 14 bolts that hold the crankcase.
14. When installing the holder, the working edge of the new oil seal is carefully tucked onto the crankshaft flange. Arm yourself with a wooden stick for this purpose, but do not use metal objects.
15. Retighten the holder bolts.
16. Screw back the engine crankcase mounting bolts.
17. Place the clutch housing rear shield back onto the guide bushings.
18. According to the previously marked places, mount the flywheel, gearbox and clutch in their place. To ensure that the flywheel mounting bolts have high quality adhesion and reliability, first apply sealant to their threaded part.

Obviously, it is quite possible to replace the crankshaft oil seals on a VAZ 2114 car with your own hands. The procedure requires accuracy and consistency of actions. Plus, do not forget to use new high-quality auto parts, so that after a short period of time you do not have to carry out the entire procedure again.

Basic faults

Signs of a faulty pump are:

• hum or rustling in the timing drive area;
• leakage of coolant from the pump seat;
• mechanical damage to the timing belt (eaten teeth, delamination, cracking).

The main malfunction of the coolant pump is the failure of its bearing, which can be caused by its wear or incorrect adjustment of the timing belt tension. If this problem is detected, the pump must be replaced.

It is recommended to change the pump along with the timing belt and tension pulley every 50 thousand km, as well as when signs indicating its failure are identified. If the coolant pump is not replaced in a timely manner, this can lead to:

• damage and breakage of the timing belt, as a result of which it will be necessary to repair or change the cylinder head along with the gas distribution mechanism, as well as parts of the piston group;
• overheating of the engine, which can lead to damage to the rubber communications of the cooling system, cylinder head gasket and valve cover, and piston group parts.

The price of a pump for an eight-valve VAZ 2110 engine is 700-1000 rubles. The cost of repair work at a service station is about 1000 rubles. But you don’t have to overpay for the work. You can replace the pump yourself.

When purchasing a pump, be sure to pay attention to:

• manufacturer of the spare part (under no circumstances buy parts from unfamiliar brands);
• catalog number of the spare part (the standard pump for the eight-valve engine has the number 21081307010);
• presence of original packaging;
• gasket included;
• Availability of a warranty card for the product.

Step-by-step procedure for replacing a pump on a 16-valve engine

First of all, place the car on a flat surface, put wheel chocks under the rear wheels, and put the hand brake on the car itself.

Drain the coolant

Also make sure that the coolant is drained from the system. A wide container is well suited for a drain container so that the residue does not spill onto the ground and it can be used again. So, the best way for it to come out is to unscrew the screw on the cooling radiator. Now you can get to work.

Go!

1. First, loosen the nuts on the right front wheel.
2. Then lift it with a jack and pull the wheel off the fixing point.
3. Open the hood and dismantle the adsorber so that it does not interfere (if present - approx.). In this case, the hoses can be left in place.
4. For best access and visibility, remove the mudguard by first unscrewing the fastening screws.
5. Under the hood, we remove all the plastic covers, both from the engine and the timing belt.
6. The next step is to remove the timing belt and all associated parts, including the pulleys and alternator belt. You can read how to carry out this work correctly in this article.

Please note that you will have to dismantle not only the timing belt, all pulleys and drives, as well as the plastic engine protection, which is attached to it with 6 bolts. Read about what tension the timing belt should have here.

When the belt and all other elements are removed, note that the pump is attached to the body using three “10” bolts. But before that, unscrew the remaining fasteners that interfere with dismantling.

When they are dismantled, all that remains is to remove the pump from the engine.

To do this, we make small blows, tapping on the pump body and at the same time substitute a container with coolant.

When the pump itself gives way, remove it from the engine.

Installing a new pump

1. Before installing a new pump, use a scraper or sharp knife to remove parts of the old gasket from the engine. However, make sure that the metal parts of the cylinder block are not damaged and that there are no marks left on it.
2. Prepare a new gasket (it is best to choose one made of paronite rather than cardboard, as it is fixed much better and does not require sealant - approx.).

Make sure that all holes on the new pump housing and on the engine match.

1. If the gasket is cardboard, then we coat everything with sealant and install the pump in place, then fix it with the previously removed bolts.
2. Next, the assembly process is carried out in the reverse order similar to the removal order.

Order of Operations

A complete replacement of the coolant is not required for this type of repair if its service life has not expired. It is better to install the machine on an overpass or inspection hole. Further work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal.
2. First, the cover of the expansion barrel is opened, and a container with a volume of at least 5 liters is placed under the cylinders. The coolant is drained into it; after draining, the cover must be replaced.
3. Then you need to remove the casing; to do this, unscrew the mounting bolts.
4. Now you need to fix the crankshaft at the dead top point of the 1st cylinder. To do this, the gear is engaged and the pulley mounting bolt is turned. The correct position is determined in this way: the mark on the timing case coincides with the mark on the shaft gear.

• To statically fix the crankshaft, you need to insert a screwdriver between its teeth.
• Now you need to loosen the tension on the timing belt; to do this, slightly unscrew the nut holding the roller. This is done with a special key, the direction of movement is counterclockwise.

• After this operation, the roller and belt can be removed.
• Now you can completely remove the casing. To do this, unscrew the five mounting bolts.

• The water pump is now available. You need to pry it off with a screwdriver and remove it. The seat should be cleaned.
• Now the VAZ 2110 8-valve injector pump is being directly replaced. But first you need to take a new gasket, coat it on both sides with autosealant, and install it on the pump.
• The pump is installed in place.
• Subsequent work is performed in the reverse order to that described above. It is advisable, along with replacing the VAZ 2110 8 pump, to change the roller and timing belt. This way you can accurately calculate the service life of these elements.
• After installing the belt in place, you need to check its tension. To do this, take one of its fields with your fingers and unfold it in a horizontal plane. If you cannot turn the belt more than 90 degrees, the tension is normal.
• After completing the work, add old or new coolant to the required level.

Only after positive test results of the pump can you hit the road by car. For the procedure for replacing the VAZ 2110 8 valve pump, see this video.

Installing a new pump

Assembly is an equally responsible matter; a certain sequence must be followed in the process:

• first you need to install the new water pump in its place;
• Next, a plastic casing is installed;
• the camshaft pulleys are fixed in place;
• the timing belt is put on;
• The VAZ 2110 belt is put on according to the previously applied marks on the camshaft;
• The wheel rotates the engine, adjusting the correct tension and position of the belt.

Note! After installation, you need to add antifreeze or other coolant.

After these steps, you can check the operation. Usually, the process of replacing a pump with your own hands takes about three hours. If everything was done as required by the instructions, there should be no problems. Thus, you can save a lot of money, because the price for services of this type in car services is quite high.

How to determine if a VAZ 2112 pump is broken

The pump is a device with blades, centrifugal type. It is driven by a timing belt via a crankshaft pulley. The device is housed in an aluminum housing, inside which the roller rotates in a double-row bearing, with a supply of grease for the entire period of operation. The outer ring of the bearing is secured with a screw. The toothed pulley is pressed in front of the roller, the impeller is mounted at the rear end. The end of the impeller is held by a thrust ring made of a graphite-containing composition. There is an oil seal underneath it. The one-piece design does not allow for high-quality repair of the unit, therefore, if a breakdown is detected, a complete replacement of the pump on the VAZ 2112 is necessary.

Fault diagnosis

If the first suspicions are confirmed, it’s time to make, so to speak, an expert opinion confirming the need to repair the VAZ 2110 pump, for which you should carry out several simple steps described below.

Checking the timing belt

First, let's check the pressure of the cooling system when the engine is warmed up to operating temperature. Let's try to press the rubber hose with our fingers. If the fluid pressure does not provide us with noticeable resistance, the pump is faulty.

Check the timing belt tension using the appropriate inspection window. Repair of the VAZ 2110 pump will indicate a worn or bitten belt, weakened by its tension, or it will be completely soaked in antifreeze.

In any case, after 20-30 thousand km. mileage, you should carefully listen to the characteristic humming or knocking sounds of a stuck pump system bearing. After 50 thousand, it is worth thinking about the mandatory need to replace the timing belt, pump and tension pulley.

Installation of an additional pump on a VAZ 2110/11/12

The interior heating system in VAZ 2110/11/12 cars often fails to cope with its responsibilities in the cold season. This problem can be solved by installing an additional pump in the cooling system.

To heat the interior of the VAZ 2110/11/12, an additional electric pump from GAZelle is installed

The VAZ 2110/11/12 stove functions normally only at speeds of at least 2 thousand rpm. At idle, slightly warm air enters the cabin. The fact is that to increase the air temperature, the coolant must circulate faster. The problem is solved by installing an additional pump and accelerating the circulation of antifreeze through the stove. As a result, the temperature in the cabin ceases to depend on engine speed. For these purposes, an electric pump from a GAZelle is installed.

Installation of an additional pump

To install an additional pump, you need to do the following:

1. Coolant is drained from the cooling system.
2. A part of the outlet pipe of the stove is cut out, equal to the length of the pump without taking into account the fittings.
3. The fittings are coated with sealant, the hoses are put on and secured with clamps.
4. To attach the pump to the body, use a special bracket that wraps around the pump and is attached to the body with two self-tapping screws. You can make such fasteners yourself or purchase them in a store. The bracket can also be attached to suitable studs on vehicle components.
5. To control the pump, a button is installed in the cabin that supplies power from the positive terminal of the battery. In this case, it is advisable to supply voltage through a relay.

Carrying out replacement work

Despite the fact that the VAZ-2110 works with both 8-valve and 16-valve units, the algorithm for replacing them is identical.

At the beginning of installation, it is necessary to carry out work to dismantle the worn or broken pump in the following sequence:

1. Place the vehicle over a pit or a special overpass.
2. After opening the hood, you need to remove the negative terminal from the battery. This action will disconnect the vehicle from power.
3. Further work will take place directly under the car.
4. Having previously placed a container under the block, open the plug to drain the coolant. Drain the liquid only when the engine is pre-cooled.
5. After the coolant has completely escaped, return the plug to its original position.
6. Remove the timing case by unscrewing the mounting bolts.
7. Install the crankshaft at the top meter point of the first cylinder. To do this, you need to turn off the gear and turn the bolt holding the pulley with the nineteenth key. Rotational movements are made until the marks on the gear coincide with the drive marks located on the rear casing.
8. Make sure that these marks match.
9. Remove the tension roller and timing belt.
10. Next, you need to unscrew the mounting bolts holding the lower casing.
11. Remove the casing itself.
12. Remove the pump by unscrewing the 3 hex bolts.
13. Carefully remove the remaining fragments of the old gasket.

The process of replacing the pump (water pump)

General view of a water pump manufactured by AvtoVAZ

So, before you begin directly replacing the pump on a 16-valve VAZ 2112, you need to collect some tools. Tools you will need: a 10 and 17 wrench, a flat screwdriver, a timing belt clamping mechanism, a hammer, rags, 2 liters of coolant, a container for draining the coolant from the system.

Now that everything is available, you can proceed directly to the process. Let's look at detailed instructions for replacing the water pump:

1. It is best when there is a pit or a lift, which will simplify the procedure, but in the absence of this we will change it directly in the garage.
2. We dismantle the front right wheel.

To make replacement easier, remove the front right wheel from the car.

Unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut, which will later be removed

Fixing the camshafts from turning so as not to disturb the valve timing

Unscrew the timing belt pulley and loosen the belt.

Dismantling the crankshaft pulley

General diagram of timing belt disassembly

Unscrew the mounting bolts and dismantle the pump

The car pump has been replaced and for the next 40-50 thousand km this unit should not bother the car owner.

Reasons for replacement

Now, let's look at the causes of the malfunction, as well as the signs by which you can understand that the unit is not suitable for use.

So, signs of a faulty water pump:

• Bearing noise or “clatter” in the pump area.
• An increase in coolant temperature (a non-functional automatic transmission may be to blame, diagnostics and replacement).
• Leaks that come from the side of the water pump. Gasket failure or bearing wear.

Now, let's look at the reasons for pump failure:

• Worn water pump bearing or shaft , which leads to poor fluid circulation or leaks.
• Gasket failure due to wear.
• Shaft wear can also cause it to turn and therefore not have enough circulation, which will lead to a lot of heat.
• Pulley wear , which will be visible from belt wear.

The causes and symptoms are named, so any motorist will be able to diagnose this system on their own.

Choice, price and some recommendations

So, you should be careful when choosing a water pump for a VAZ 2112, since the normal functioning of the cooling system depends on this unit. So, if you do not replace the pump in time, you can not only boil on the way, but also be left without circulation, but also get deflection and deformation of the cylinder head .

The modern spare parts market has a fairly large number of counterfeits, especially for spare parts for the chassis and cooling system elements. So, when choosing a pump, you need to look at the availability of relevant documents, holograms and certificates.

Original

2112-1307010 is the original catalog number of the water pump manufactured by AvtoVAZ. This part is directly designed for this 16 valve vehicle. The cost of the part is 1500 rubles .

Analogs

Now, let’s look at analogues of the original part, which is recommended for installation on the VAZ 2112. All of them have received the highest reviews from consumers, have the appropriate certificates, and also fit perfectly in terms of mounting fasteners.

Water pump manufactured by Fenox

Tuning

To increase engine performance and increase service life, you can install tuning spare parts. As practice and experience show, modernized spare parts have a longer service life than standard ones.

So, for the VAZ 2112 they produce tuning parts, such as ProSport and Brembo.

Of course, their cost is about 3,000 rubles, which is twice as expensive as a standard part, but they have a smaller pulley, which allows the engine to circulate fluid faster. This, in turn, contributes to better cooling of the system.

Tuning version of the pump produced by Luzar

The engine of any car will never be able to operate stably without optimal functioning of the cooling system. The circulation of coolant inside the engine is ensured by a special pump or (pump - approx.), which is located in the gas distribution mechanism (timing) drive unit. It happens that an element fails and needs to be replaced. In this article we will talk about this in detail.

The video shows the process of replacing the pump on a VAZ-2112; usually the pump is replaced along with the timing belt during scheduled maintenance:

Purpose and functions of the water pump

The pump is a centrifugal type pump that provides forced circulation of antifreeze through the engine cooling circuit. Due to this, excess heat is removed from the engine. Structurally, the pump is quite simple. An impeller is located in a cast iron or aluminum casing, which is driven through a shaft. The tightness of the structure is ensured by the oil seal and gasket between the pump housing and the cylinder block.

Coolant is supplied through the central channel. When it hits the impeller, due to the centrifugal force, the coolant is thrown towards the walls of the housing. Through the distribution channel, the liquid flows to the pipes and then into the engine cooling jacket. When the temperature reaches a certain value, the thermostat opens, which leads to cooling of the liquid in the radiator. The coolant then returns to the centrifugal pump. This ensures the circulation of antifreeze.

The pump is the main element of the engine cooling system

Signs of a pump malfunction

Replacing the VAZ 2110 pump may be necessary if obvious signs of a malfunction are detected. The most pronounced and frequent defects are:

1. Violation of the drive pulley clearance. If it wobbles freely, this indicates wear of the bearings and imminent failure of the pump. In addition, a characteristic rumble indicates bearing wear. As a result of this malfunction, the timing belt begins to slip and is damaged by the tension roller.
2. Leaks in the oil seal area. The defect is mainly expressed in the loss of antifreeze, which causes additional financial costs for adding coolant. You should respond to a breakdown in a timely manner without resorting to systematic fluid replacement.
3. Noise during operation. As for antifreeze leakage, this malfunction can wait for some time. But if noise, an uncharacteristic creaking or howling is detected while pressing the gas pedal, the VAZ 2110 16 pump requires urgent replacement or repair! This is the initial characteristic of bearing failure. The device itself does not pose a threat, but if it jams, the consequences can be especially disastrous.
4. Insufficient intensity of coolant circulation.
5. Free rotation of the impeller separately from the shaft.
6. Increase in motor temperature.
7. Reduced coolant level.

Symptoms of malfunction

There are several signs of a pump breakdown, and they can be obvious, or the fault can only be determined after diagnosis.

Signals that the water pump has become unusable are:

• Increased noise when the engine is running from the timing belt side, a squeak is possible;
• A constant and significant decrease in the coolant level in the expansion tank and traces of coolant leaks from the crankshaft drive pulley;
• Strong pump play.

As can be seen from the list, all these signs are caused by severe wear of the bearing and seals.

Some argue that a pump malfunction leads to an increase in temperature during operation of the power plant.

But this happens in very rare cases when, due to corrosion, the impeller blades are almost completely destroyed. Because of this, the pump simply physically cannot impart movement to the liquid.

But such a malfunction is an isolated case; in general, the pump cannot affect the temperature regime due to the fact that it is constantly in motion.

But ignoring the problem with the pump’s operation will also not lead to anything good.

In the best case, the bearing and seals will wear out so much that they will not prevent the coolant from flowing out at all.

And since there is a drainage hole in the pump body, the antifreeze will drain through it quickly, and this can actually lead to overheating of the engine.

It is much worse if the bearing collapses due to severe wear and leads to jamming of the pump.

The result of this is a belt rupture and possible collision of the valves with the pistons. And this is already a major expensive repair of the power plant.

Recommended.

Check the pump every time the drive belt is replaced. Well, if any of the signs of malfunction appear, you should immediately check the condition of the pump and, if necessary, replace it.

Let us note here that increased hum and squeaking can be caused not only by the pump, but also by the tension roller, so the pump is not necessarily the cause of the noise.

But if a faulty element is identified, it is worth checking both of these details. Fortunately, they are located nearby, so it is not difficult to determine whether the pump or the roller caused the increased noise.

Replacement

To remove the pump, you must first remove the timing drive. Sometimes you can hear opinions that you can easily do without it. But in practice, it is impossible to remove the pump without dismantling the timing drive. Of course, it is quite possible to unscrew it, but removing the pump through the existing hole is very problematic. Therefore, you still have to disassemble the floor of the motor. Getting to work, everyone who switched to a “two-wheeler” from a VAZ “classic” will be sad, replacing the pump there was much easier.

Experienced drivers time the replacement of the pump to coincide with the installation of a new timing belt. After all, the pump will soon fail anyway. It is replaced according to the following scheme:

• It is necessary to install the car on the inspection hole, if there is no hole, jack up the left wheel and remove it. The battery is removed and the coolant is drained;
• The generator mounting bolt is loosened, after which it rises up;
• We set the timing marks. This is important for subsequent assembly;
• Unscrew the crankshaft pulley. It scrolls. But you can deal with this problem in 2 ways. First, an assistant uses a mounting blade to wedge the flywheel through the window in the clutch housing. For the second one you will also need an assistant. He will engage fourth gear and keep the brake pedal depressed. This way, you will ensure that the crankshaft remains stationary, and you can use a 17mm wrench to unscrew the pulley mounting bolt;
• The bolts securing the camshaft pulleys are unscrewed. For this you will need a special holder. If it is not there, then you can lock the shafts using a spacer. Just do it carefully, do not damage the pulley teeth;

Conclusion

. Problems with the coolant pump are not uncommon. Most often problems arise with the bearing. Therefore, replacing a pump on a VAZ 2110 and 2112 16 valves is not a rare job. Therefore, every owner of this model should be able to quickly fix this problem. After all, operation with such a breakdown can lead to malfunction of the entire engine.

conclusions

Summing up our rating, it is very important to note that truly high-quality models of coolant pumps were presented here, which have proven themselves to be the best among a large number of VAZ-2112 owners, otherwise what choice you make depends only on you

The pump is a simple assembly that consists of a housing, a bearing and an impeller. This cooling system pump circulates the coolant. If the pump does not work, then the engine will overheat. What is the pump's lifespan?

which pump to choose for VAZ

Reasons for a dying pump: Poor circulation of coolant, extraneous sounds from the timing belt casing.

VAZ pump malfunctions

The causes of breakdowns can be various, for example, the formation of play or jamming of the bearing. It is not uncommon for the impeller to start spinning freely, but separately from the shaft. If the pump is leaking or making noise, then it also needs to be replaced.

The service life of the pump depends a lot on the quality of the pump. For example, a defective or low-quality pump can work for only 10 thousand km. If the pump lasted more than 100 thousand km, then it is generally accepted that it was a high-quality pump. From the factory, VAZs are equipped with TZA pumps, which have a long service life.

How to distinguish a fake? The pump must be in a high-quality box, inside it is a warranty card with the date of manufacture and stamps and a gasket. There is a holographic sticker on the pump.

How to change the pump on a VAZ 2110?

None Which pump is better to choose?

So, let's vote and leave.

pump reviews

1. Which pump did you choose?
2. How long did the old pump last?

ps All off-topic comments will be deleted.

Keywords:

modification of the engine cooling system

The thorny path to replacing the timing belt and rollers has been completed, along with the water pump (coolant pump). It became thorny, firstly, due to the fact that for two years or 25 thousand kilometers I drove with a belt installed by the previous owner, which involuntarily destroyed the stereotype that you can’t trust car salesmen. He was a normal guy, he said to replace it in the spring, I replaced it two days later... The old belt, by the way, proudly demonstrated by the master (“Christina”), at the time of replacement, turned out to be cracked at least one of the teeth.

The pump has also suffered over the past years - the play was no less proudly demonstrated, and upon leaving the service center I personally noted a decrease in the noise level from under the hood. The replacement of the latter was dictated more by the expediency of combining work than by real suspicions of an imminent end. The 124th engine does not bend the valves when the belt breaks, it was possible not to worry, but... perfectionism is a serious disease.

After all, thorniness is also due to the specifics of the choice of spare parts. I mean it's hard. And this is what was replaced (price + delivery cost): - INA timing drive kit

(Slovakia) - 1390+600=2000 rub.
// alsport.ruAccording to the assurances on the website “ Used in motorsport.
Improved timing belt design from INA. Instead of neoprene, enriched nitrile is used, because When heated, neoprene becomes rigid and loses its elasticity. “

The kit from Priora, sent earlier by mistake, turned out to be equipped with INA rollers with a Contitech belt.

And here is pure INA.

— coolant pump TZA Sport (Tolyatti) — 503+325=828 rub. //nbklada.

Design features:— New 8-blade impeller 21118 with a modified profile and direction of the blades, productivity above 170 l/min for use in internal combustion engines operating with increased loads;— Cassette-type oil seal from MTU, made in Italy;— Bearing from KINEX ” manufactured in Slovakia. This allowed: - to increase the pump performance by 20-40%; - to improve the operation of the internal combustion engine cooling system; - to improve the operation of the vehicle interior heating system;

— increase the working life of the pump by 40%.

The pump change was also marked by a replacement of the coolant - there is no need to skimp on antifreeze after last year's problems with antifreeze - AGA Z42 antifreeze

(10 liters of potion);
SCT fuel filter
(unfortunately there was no Knecht Mahle);
10W40 MotorGold oil
(5 liter canister, manufactured in 2012 - not only can this oil be bought in only two stores in the city, but also their 12th year can be considered a fresh batch...)
with a Knecht Mahle filter
;
oil seal
closest to the headlights due to detected fogging (Balakovo, FPM tires). Total: 960+130+(1100+130)+100=2420 rub. The total cost of the work was 1900 rubles. Some expensive update came out (Price: 7,200 ₽ Mileage: 126,960 km

• carfrance.ru
• xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai
• www.drive2.ru

Pump selection

Thus, you are faced with the question of whether you need to purchase a new pump. To begin with, you need to decide on a budget. Depending on the manufacturer and the quality of the product, the price will vary from 300 rubles for Belarusian analogues (Fenox) and up to 700 or more for German analogues (HEPU).

Replacing the engine pump with 16 valves

Replacing a VAZ 2110 8 valve pump is somewhat different from replacing a VAZ 2110 16 valve pump. Structurally, the pump, designed for a sixteen-valve engine, is distinguished by the presence of an additional lug. Other overall and landing dimensions are similar.

Replacing the engine pump with 8 valves

When replacing a VAZ 2110 8-valve pump, it is also worth taking into account the design features of the engine. However, in general, the differences are not so critical that they should be considered in a separate article. Therefore, replacing a VAZ 2110 pump with 16 valves will be technically similar to an eight-valve one.

It is recommended to pay attention to the following points when purchasing:

• Mandatory presence of a warranty card and original packaging;
• Availability of new oil seals included.

How to check the performance of the pump VAZ 2113 VAZ 2114

Checking the correct functioning of the water pump can be done in several ways; we will look at some, in my opinion, the most effective of them using the VAZ 2113 as an example.

The first method is the simplest; it involves warming up the VAZ 2114 engine to operating temperature (the sensor needle will become vertical). Then you need to clamp the upper radiator pipe; if the water pump is working, you will feel a pulsation of coolant in the squeezed pipe. Check the serviceability of the oil seal and whether liquid is leaking through it through the control vent hole of the pump. To do this, remove the timing belt cover, then carefully inspect the above hole. If you find brown deposits, you will need to replace the seal with or without a water pump. When a lingering sound is heard from the front of the engine, it can be assumed that the pump shaft bearings have failed. To make sure of this, check the shaft play by shaking the water pump drive sprocket. If there are no visual signs of a malfunction, I recommend dismantling the pump and performing a more detailed inspection.

Essentially, you need to pay attention to the back of the rotor. The most common problem is blades destroyed by corrosion. If the water pump on a VAZ 2113 is faulty, repair it or completely replace it

If the water pump on a VAZ 2113 is faulty, repair it or completely replace it.