- The reason for the knocking may be replacing one type of oil with another, more liquid one, without flushing the system.
Tip: To create the required pressure for hydraulic compensators, a thicker lubricant must be poured.
If the actions taken did not help, you need to replace the hydraulic compensators of the VAZ 2112, it will be cheaper on your own.
Advice: Hydraulic compensators need to be replaced all at once, despite the fact that not all are broken. This is explained by the fact that the devices will break over time, and they are sold as a set. If you replace them all at once, the cost of repairs in the future will be lower.
Replacing hydraulic compensators in a VAZ 2112 car
If the hydraulic compensators operate inadequately (a knocking sound appears), the hydraulic compensator on the VAZ 2112, the entire set, needs to be replaced. But you need to make sure that the knocking is caused by a non-working main valve. This is done with a phonendoscope, in which a characteristic sound is heard. You can try to eliminate the knocking of one element by following these steps:
- The crankshaft is rotated until the valve opens slightly, which corresponds to the knocking main valve.
Work order:
- Oil change.
- The system is flushed.
- The oil filter is changed.
- The oil flow channel into the hydraulic fluid is cleaned using compressed air.
- Replacing hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 2112 car with your own hands is done no earlier than when at least 30 minutes have passed since the engine is turned off. This is necessary to reduce pressure in the blood vessels.
- Before installing new elements, the mounting hole is lubricated.
- At the initial moment, a knock may occur due to incomplete filling of the hydraulic fluid with oil. But it will stop after filling the mechanism with liquid.
Actions that will help the hydraulics start working quietly in normal mode:
- Let the engine run for five minutes at 2500 rpm.
- Then idle for 30 seconds.
- The noise in the hydraulic compensators will disappear. This means air is leaving the system. As the knocking continues, the cycle is repeated several times, usually 1-3 cycles.
How to replace valve lifters on a VAZ 2112 car
Replacing the VAZ 2112 valve hydraulic compensator is carried out when one or more elements fail. So:
- The plastic cover is removed.
- The receiver is removed. The hole in the intake manifold is closed with a cover.
- The ignition module is removed.
- The crankcase ventilation hose is disconnected from the pipe installed on the cylinder head cover.
- Use a 10mm wrench to turn the bolt that secures the bracket for the wiring harness connector for the injectors.
- The cylinder head cover is released from fixation and removed.
- The hydraulic compensator is checked by pressing a drift made of soft metal on it. In this case, the camshaft cam should be “back of the head” facing the pusher.
- In normal condition, the hydraulic pusher should be pressed with force. Otherwise, it needs to be replaced.
- To do this, the camshaft toothed pulleys are removed.
- The wire is removed from the oil pressure sensor.
- The bolts securing the camshaft bearing housing are unscrewed.
- The bolt securing the rod to the power unit bracket and its rear support is unscrewed and pulled out.
- The rear support bracket is removed.
Removing the rear support bracket
- The camshaft bearing housing is removed.
- The guide pipes for the spark plugs are removed from the housing.
- The intake camshaft differs from the exhaust camshaft by the presence of a belt near the first journal of the shaft.
- The camshafts are removed along with the seals.
- The rear plugs installed on the cylinder head and camshaft bearing housing are removed.
- The hydraulic compensator is removed from the cylinder head. To do this, apply a magnet to the end of the element, as shown in the photo.
The hydraulic compensator is pulled out from the cylinder head
- If necessary, the hydraulic compensators of the VAZ 2112 valves are replaced with new elements.
- Remains of old oil and sealant are removed.
- Engine oil lubricates the cams and camshaft journals.
- The shafts are placed in supports on the cylinder head.
- Loctite No. 574 sealant is applied to the mating plane of the shaft bearing housing and the cylinder head using a bead, 2 millimeters thick.
- The bearing housing is installed and the fixing bolts are tightened evenly.
- The O-rings are lubricated with engine oil.
- Pipes are installed in the bearing housings and cylinder head holes.
- New camshaft seals are pressed in.
- The plugs are pressed into place on the opposite side of the cylinder block (see Replacing VAZ plugs: how to do it correctly).
- Final assembly is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.
How to replace hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 2112 16 valves is clearly visible in the video. After correctly replacing the hydraulic lifters on a VAZ 2112, the engine will operate silently for a long time, which increases its service life.
Reasons for the need to replace hydraulic compensators
The hydraulic compensator (HC) is the most important component of a car engine. It eliminates the thermal gap between the valve lifter and the camshaft cam. Eliminating this gap allows you to ensure uninterrupted operation of the engine at the level of design parameters. During operation, if the operating conditions and instructions of the manufacturer are not observed, premature wear of this part occurs. At the same time, a characteristic knocking sound is heard in the engine. This sound tells us that the hydraulic compensator has failed and needs to be replaced. The reasons for failure of the hydraulic compensator may be the following:
- Contamination of the oil supply channels in the engine.
- Wear of the working surfaces of the check valve and plunger pair.
- The occurrence of shock loads as a result of non-filling or partial filling of the hydraulic compensator with oil, in other words, its “airing”.
Now let’s briefly go over each of the above points. The oil passages of the engine lubrication system must not be allowed to become contaminated. This is a clear violation of operational standards that can lead to serious consequences. The reasons for contamination of oil channels may be:
- Using motor oil that does not comply with the instructions.
- Untimely replacement of engine oil.
- Oil filter malfunction.
As for increasing the seating gaps in the plunger pairs, in this case, increased oil leakage will occur from the high pressure chamber. In this case, the compensator will lose its resistance force and the effectiveness of the force of pressing the cam on the valve stem of the gas distribution mechanism will decrease. The internal space of the hydraulic compensator must be completely filled with oil. If this condition is not met, then the GC will not eliminate the gap in the parts of the gas distribution mechanism. As a result, dynamic loads will arise, in other words, shocks, which will lead to rapid wear of timing parts and a significant deterioration in engine performance.
It should be remembered that malfunctions in the operation of the main engine can also be caused by the ingress of small particles into it with the oil, which appear as a result of wear of engine parts. In this case, the node may jam.
If you do hear the aforementioned knock, then you should not immediately dramatize this event. If a breakdown of this nature occurs, it is quite possible to replace the hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 2112 yourself. But first, you can try to eliminate the knocking by performing the following simple steps:
- Remove the timing cover.
- Rotate the crankshaft so that the valve that is knocking begins to open.
- Turn the spring a little to shift the points of previous contact. The valve will also turn.
- Install the timing cover.
- Start the engine.
If the knocking does not disappear, then more effective measures need to be taken. Let's return to the idea that replacing hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 2112 with your own hands, in this case, will be the most optimal solution to the problem.
Diagnosis of the problem
Obviously, replacing hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 2112 with your own hands begins with diagnostics. First you need to determine which specific compensator has failed. To do this, it will be very convenient to use a device such as a phonendoscope. Applying it one by one in the area where each compensator is located, it is necessary to listen to the operation of each unit to identify increased noise and characteristic knocking. Having thus determined which hydraulic compensator needs to be replaced, you can begin disassembling.
Tip: If you don’t have a phonendoscope, you can build some kind of one. Attach a small tin can to one of its ends to a small metal rod (approximately 500mm long and about 6mm in diameter). Attach a wooden handle in the middle of the rod. By applying the free end of the rod to the location of the compensator, you can listen to the operation of the unit through a tin can.
Required spare parts
Article numbers 2112-1007300-01 and 2112-1007300 indicate hydraulic pushers manufactured by AvtoVAZ - this is the catalog number. They need to be purchased for repairs. The price of the set is about 3,300 rubles (per piece – 220 rubles). You can also buy spare parts with article number 420007310 INA. They are suitable for replacing VAZ 2112 hydraulic compensators (16 valves), but the price of the set is higher - up to 2,700 rubles (per piece - 280 rubles). Another analogue is Herzog HL0 7300. Price 2700 rubles. The compensator Master-sport 2112-1007300-SET/16/-MS is also recommended for installation on VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112.
Replacing expansion joints
It should be noted that replacing hydraulic compensators with your own hands on a VAZ 2112 has its own certain nuances. Knowledge of these technical subtleties will allow car enthusiasts and professionals to successfully solve problems of this kind. The following provides detailed instructions for replacing the main body:
- First, remove the plastic cover.
- Next, the receiver is removed. It is necessary to close the intake manifold openings with covers.
- Then you need to remove the ignition module.
- Then the crankcase ventilation hose is removed.
- Next, remove the fastening of the injector wires. To do this you need to use a 10mm open end wrench.
Remove the fastening of the injector wires
- Then remove the valve cover. To do this, you need to unscrew 15 bolts using a 8-mm socket.
Removing the valve cover
- Next, remove the cylinder head cover.
- We check the functionality of the hydraulic compensator. To do this, press on it with any rod, preferably made of soft metal. In this case, the camshaft cam should be turned towards the compensator with its blunt back side. If the compensator is pressed easily, with little force, then it needs to be replaced.
Checking the functionality of the hydraulic compensator
- We dismantle the camshaft toothed pulleys.
- Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sensor.
- Unfasten the camshaft bearing housing. To do this, you need to unscrew 20 bolts using a 8-mm socket.
- Unscrew the bolt securing the rod to the rear engine mount bracket.
- Next, unscrew the three nuts securing the rear support bracket. This is done using a 15mm socket.
Unscrew the bracket fastening
- Remove the rear support bracket.
- Now you can remove the camshaft housing.
- Remove the spark plug tubes from the housing.
- In order to distinguish the intake and exhaust camshafts, there is a belt on the first journal of the intake shaft.
Intake and exhaust camshafts
- Next, remove the camshafts with seals.
- Next, you need to remove the rear plugs of the camshaft bearing housing and cylinder head.
- Using a magnet, we remove the hydraulic compensator from the socket.
- If necessary, we replace the hydraulic compensator with a new product and reassemble it in the reverse order.
Before assembly, be sure to clean the camshaft bearing housing and cylinder head from any remaining old sealant and oil. Before installing the camshafts, their bearing journals and cams must be lubricated with engine oil. The bearing housing mounting bolts must be tightened evenly and thoroughly.
As can be seen from the photo, the proposed set of works does not present any particular difficulties. After the replacement is completed, the engine may operate with increased noise for some time. In this case, the hydraulic compensators are pumped. To do this you need to do the following:
- Start the engine and let it run at 2500 rpm for 5 minutes.
- Then go to idle speed and let the engine run for half a minute.
- Next, turn off the engine and wait one minute.
- After a minute, start the engine again. If the knocking noise has disappeared, then the hydraulic compensator has been bled; if not, then the entire procedure must be repeated again. You may need up to five or more repetitions.
Before the VAZ 2112 hydraulic compensators are replaced, the video below will help you avoid sad misunderstandings:
As this video shows, the purchase of new spare parts must be treated very, very scrupulously.
Bolts as an alternative for hydraulic compensators
Quite relevant today is the replacement of hydraulic compensators with VAZ 2112 bolts. This topic causes a lot of discussion and has many positive and negative opinions. Here are some pros and cons in relation to hydraulic compensators. Positive sides:
- The valves will always be tightly closed and, as a result, the likelihood of burnout is minimal.
- There is no need to adjust the gaps.
- The noise of the gas distribution mechanism is significantly reduced.
- More stable operation of a warm engine at idle speed. This is the result of the valves closing tightly.
- In this case, we see, perhaps, only one disadvantage - the price of spare parts. This refers to the cost of the hydraulic compensators themselves and the parts associated with them. However, constant adjustment of a non-compensatory gas distribution mechanism will require no less cost and even more hassle.
Sequence of actions on Lada Priora
- Both terminals are removed from the battery.
- The wires on the injectors and on the ignition coil are disconnected, the cable is removed from the throttle, the air filter and all other wires that prevent access to the engine intake manifold are removed.
- Before removing the manifold, you will have to remove the belt from the generator, then unscrew its mounting bolt. After this, the generator can be moved to the side and you can get to one of the intake manifold mounting bolts (there is no other way to get to this bolt).
- The next step is to remove the ramp and fuel injectors (if the car has air conditioning, you will also have to remove its hoses so that they do not interfere).
- All other manifold mounting bolts are unscrewed, after which it is removed.
The valve cover is unscrewed with a 12 mm socket wrench.
Now you can remove the valve cover, timing pulleys and camshafts.
Removing a previously unscrewed valve cover
Since we now have access to the hydraulic compensators, all that remains is to replace them with new ones (we should also change the seals on the camshafts and the sealant on the valve cover).
After removing the cover, the camshafts are removed
Worn hydraulic compensators are removed from their sockets
- After this, the above components are reassembled. The instructions below are suitable for cars with 16 valves.
Replacing hydraulic compressors on a 16-valve VAZ-2112 with your own hands (+ video)
Hydraulic compressors, or hydraulic valve pushers as they are also called, are designed to automatically adjust their thermal clearances. Simply put, they are a kind of gaskets between the camshaft cams and valves, capable of changing their thickness. The hydraulic compensator consists of a cylindrical body, as well as a special plunger consisting of a bushing, a spring and a ball valve. Their use on the VAZ-2112 engine makes it possible not to periodically check thermal clearances, as on the 2108 engine (valve adjustment) .
The replacement of hydraulic compensators is described and shown in detail and “up close” in the video below:
Results
Thus, to the question whether the VAZ 2112 1.5 16v bends the valve or not, you can give a fairly clear answer. If the engine is really a 1.5 liter (16 valve), then if the belt suddenly breaks, the valves will definitely bend. This will happen due to the design features of the engine, which were subsequently taken into account by the developers on a similar 1.6-liter engine, also with 16 valves. On this engine, the valves no longer bend, since there is a bore on the pistons that prevents such a phenomenon.
Such engines were installed, according to the VAZ factory certificate, on both the VAZ 2112 and VAZ 21124 models in different production years (after 2004 and before 2009). So, we hope this information will help you in preventing possible troubles when the timing belt breaks.
Valve VAZ 2112
Operating principle of hydraulic compressors
Hydraulic compensator disassembled
The principle of its operation is as follows. When the cam is turned with its blunt side towards the pusher, a gap is formed, and at this time the plunger, under the influence of the spring, closes it, rising upward, and the oil through the channel, bypassing the ball valve, enters directly into its cavity.
When the camshaft cam is turned on the opposite side, it presses on the pusher, sending it down. And at this time the valve is closed by the ball, since the force of the cam is transferred to the plunger.
Signs and causes of malfunction
The main sign that the hydraulic compressors have failed will be their characteristic knocking sound, in which case for any car enthusiast this will be the first signal for diagnostics.
There may be several reasons for the malfunction:
- The service life of hydraulic compressors has been exhausted .
- The oil supply channels were clogged , resulting in oil starvation.
- Wear on the plunger pair caused by wear parts entering it.
If hydraulic compressors have worked their entire service life and require replacement due to wear and tear due to purely operational characteristics, then there is no reason for frustration. However, in two other cases, this will indicate problems in the operation of the oil pump, elements of the lubrication system, as well as inconsistencies in the type of oil for the engine.
The hydraulic compensator will work properly and for a long time only in cases where the entire working space is filled with oil. Otherwise, dynamic loads will gradually lead to its destruction, which will be the result of knocking. To diagnose hydraulic compensators, you can use a phonendoscope.
An example of hydraulic compressors knocking
Why do you need hydraulic compensators for the BAZ 2112?
My camshafts didn’t turn, I took everything apart, but I couldn’t get the hydraulics out. You press on them, they stand there dead, what could be the reason?
Thank you! Very necessary information. I'll try to change the oil, I'll write what happens.
When it’s cold, it doesn’t knock, or at least barely audibly, but as it warms up, the knocking intensifies. What should be the pressure when the engine is warmed up?
Thank you very much, I’ll also try to change the oil and filter. I'll see what happens.
I got my head full, completely new headers, but the knocking doesn’t stop
Why do the valves knock? The hydraulic compensator was changed, the oil too, the pressure sensor is on, the car does not pull.
The camshafts could be worn out, if new camshafts don’t help, then throw away the head
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Few drivers know what to do if valves or hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 2112 16 valves are knocking. This is a fairly common situation. But most people do not know the reasons for such phenomena and are afraid of them. In fact, this may be quite common and should not be a cause for concern. Depending on the characteristics of the knock, we can draw a conclusion about its nature and danger to the engine. Some types of knocking are quite harmless. You can ride with them, but this problem may lead to others. Therefore, it is still better to eliminate the cause immediately. Moreover, in most cases this does not require any special costs.
Main types of faults
We answer the question of how to check hydraulic compensators for functionality. It can be noted that there are four reasons for the occurrence of malfunctions:
- Increasing the size of the gaps in the areas indicated by the arrows in the photo below. Gaps are formed between the plunger and the plunger bushing. The result will be increased oil leakage. The compensator simply will not have time to “select” the thermal gap;
- In rare cases, the check valve does not close tightly. Which, at a minimum, makes it impossible to create sufficient pressure generated between the sleeve and the plunger;
- The bushing should move freely relative to the plunger. In the areas indicated in photo 3, a blockage may appear, and then the plunger pair jams;
- Clogged engine oil passages are another reason why compensators stop working.
This is interesting: Reasons why the car stalls when braking and troubleshooting
The first failure always occurs as a result of abrasive wear. If you use low-quality oil, you will get the appropriate result. The second malfunction is the result of wear or clogging. The latter, by the way, is more common. Well, jamming can occur due to gradual coking or due to the appearance of deposits.
Each of the reasons received a number from 1 to 4. Next, links are made that say which reason causes this or that effect. Read carefully.