How to connect and configure “oars” on car doors

Removing a standard window regulator

If you plan to install rear electric windows on the car, you will have to disassemble all the doors. Therefore, at the first stage, remove the trim from all the doors, and then begin disassembling the mechanisms. Having opened access to the cable mechanism and glass fasteners, you can begin dismantling. First, push the glass all the way up and secure it with tape.

After this, unscrew all the fastening bolts that are on the glass carriages. Moreover, you need to unscrew them both on the mechanism and on the glass. After this, you can pull the entire mechanism out of the door and begin installing the electrical one.

Lada 2114 SnowMan › Logbook › Window lifters without ignition

You stop, turn off the engine, take the key out of the ignition, press the power window button to close the window, BUT IT WAS NOT THERE

. When the ignition is turned off, the window switches do not work. Now, in order to close the window, you have to reinsert the key into the ignition...

I think you are all familiar with this situation.

I overcame this “illness” in the first days of using the car, long before I registered to drive. Due to the fact that during the drive I was asked more than once how I did it, I decided to post a detailed report.

And then I started by studying the materiel.

Electrical wiring diagram for VAZ 2114 electric windows

A little theory:

From the diagram it can be seen that the positive power window power wire passes through the K5 window relay and is open (pins 30 and 87). When you turn the ignition key, a plus is applied to the 85th contact of the K5 relay, the relay electromagnet turns on and closes the 30th and 87th contacts, after which a plus appears on the power window buttons.

Conclusion:

In order for the power windows to work without an ignition key, you need to bridge contacts 30 and 87 of relay K5 as in the figure below.
The red line indicates the jumper.
Let's move on to practice:

I will not impose on you any specific method of making a jumper; I will describe only the most common ones; you can choose any of these methods that seems most simple and convenient to you.

Method No. 2

Here I will describe another method of making a jumper. We will need: - 6.4mm MALE detachable terminal - 2 pcs - 5cm of wire We strip 5-7mm of insulation from each edge of the wire. Using a crimper, we crimp the connector terminals at the ends of the wire.

This is what should happen

We insert the resulting jumper instead of the K5 power window relay in the mounting block (the jumper is inserted between contacts 30 and 87).

Method No. 3

In this version, the role of the jumper will be performed by the K5 window relay itself with minor modifications. We take out the K5 relay from the mounting block, turning the relay over we will see the markings of its contacts. We take a piece of wire without insulation and wind it around relay contacts 30 and 87 (see figure below). We return relay K5 to its place in the mounting block.

Electric windows of the front doors of VAZ 2115, VAZ 2114 (connection diagram): 1 – mounting block; 2 – power window switch for the right front door; 3 – gear motor for the electric window of the right front door; 4 – motor reducer for the electric window lifter of the left front door; 5 – power window switch for the left front door; 6 – ignition switch; K5 – relay for turning on electric windows; A - to power supplies; B - to the external lighting switch

Many cars produced recently are equipped with electric windows. Often, power windows are installed only on the front doors. But previously, VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 cars were not equipped with electric windows at all. Such cars were equipped with conventional mechanical

lifts for both front and rear windows.

In the window lift mechanism, instead of a gear reducer used in mechanical window lifters, there is only a drum into the hole of which the output shaft of the gear motor is inserted. The gear motor consists of a worm gearbox and a DC electric motor with excitation from permanent magnets. Its design is similar to that of the windshield wiper gearmotor. The gearmotor is reversible, the direction of rotation of the output shaft depends on the direction of the current in the armature winding. To protect against overloads, it has a built-in thermobimetallic fuse.

Above is a diagram for switching on electric windows on VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 cars. Gearmotors 3 and 4 are switched on by switches 2 and 5 located on the armrest handles. The supply voltage is supplied to the switches when the ignition is turned on through fuse F6 and the power window relay K5, located in mounting block 1. If the power windows do not work, then it is necessary to remove the door trim and check whether voltage is supplied to the gearmotors, check the fuse and the power window relay, and restore broken connections in the wires, replace the faulty gearmotor with a new one.

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Pinout of the window lifter button on the VAZ 2114

When you need to install ESP (electric windows) yourself, then, as always, on the Internet it is difficult to find correct and understandable diagrams for everyone. Having experience in radio electronics, I am laying out for everyone the correct and understandable diagrams for connecting an ESP, an intelligent glass closer Pandora DWM-210 (but it is better to install a Sheriff PWM-200), as well as simple closers only for raising the glass, installed in the wire gap on the positive side of the motor.

The process of installing the ESP is described in detail by me here: www.drive2.ru/l/4651635/

We take ESP power buttons (NOT low-current trigger (multiplex) from Itelm), namely power ones: a block from Granta, and a new model button from Kalina (it’s the power one), since they are the cutest in appearance. These are, of course, not dual-mode imported buttons, but they will work just as well with an intelligent door closer. We also install the Sheriff PWM-200 type door closer itself.

Power buttons are easy to identify by their contacts - they have thick and flat blades, while trigger buttons have thin pins like needles! We use thick power wires (shown in bold in the diagrams) >= 1 mm2, while control wires can be used thin = 0.5 mm2.

Exception! If the buttons are not on the door, but on the center console, and thick wires >= 1.5 mm2 are stretched from them to each door, then you can do without a relay, since there is no duplicate button here, and each one is on its own door, so the drawdowns are minimal. Then you don't have to read further. Or install two 5-pin relays from each button in each door as close as possible to the ESP motor, while stretching thick wires to plus and minus, and thin control wires from the buttons.

You will need a soldering iron and the following parts:

Power window switch VAZ-2190 AVAR block Article: 357.3769 2190-3709810 — 450 rub. or Control unit for VAZ-2190 window lifters AVAR 3573769 Article: 357.3769 — 450 rub. Power window switch VAZ-1118 N/O AVAR Article: 921.3709 1118-3709613-10 — 230 rub. Power window control key block with 7 wires AENK Article: 2106-3724568SB, 2106-3724568SB7 — 40 rub.

The following relays are also needed:

Electromagnetic relay 12V 5 contacts with bracket AVAR - 90 rub. Connector block with 5 AENK wires - 40 rubles. Terminal (female) 6.3mm tinned with AED clamp - 10 rub.

Plus +12V must be taken from the fuse block, and not from the ignition, otherwise the automatic window closer will not work when arming. It is better to take the weight from the bolt behind the mounting block, and not in the door, since the contact in the door may not be very good. Although the door contact is also good if the car is not old. Take tinned terminals.

Connection diagram for power window lifter button "AVAR"

Contacts 1-6 and 7-3 are normally closed (NC). 1-2, 7-2 - normally open (NO), respectively. That is, 2 pairs of switching contacts When you press the up button, contacts 1-6 open and 1-2 close (window rises). When you press the down button, contacts 7-3 open and 7-2 closes (window down).

Diagrams for connecting the backup button on the driver's door to the main button on the passenger door

When installing two buttons on one window regulator, they are usually installed in series (or in parallel, but then they must be decoupled via a relay).

The main button is the button that controls the power window of the door on which it is installed. The duplicate button is the driver's button, which additionally controls another window regulator from the driver's seat.

Daisy chain connection (for low current trigger buttons)

We connect the output of additional button 1 in the driver's door to input 6, and output 7 to input 3 of the main button on the passenger door. We cut the wires in the block connecting contacts 5-6 and 6-3. The minus of contact 5 now goes only to the backlight, and contacts 6 and 3 now take the output from additional buttons 1 and 7 of the driver's door and in a normally open state the minus comes from them. Attention! Connecting the buttons in parallel will result in a short circuit when raising and lowering, so only in series as in the diagram! Power wires are highlighted in bold.

Since the circuit is serial, there are large voltage drops along long wires and the passenger window moves very slowly! Therefore, when using a duplicate button, be sure to use two 5-contact relays, in which the output 30th contact, without supplying voltage to the winding contacts (85 and 86), is constantly shorted to contact 88 (87a in imported relays), which gives us the necessary negative contact when the relay is de-energized (works as a switch). The backup button (on the driver's door) does not need relays, since it essentially controls its own relay through the passenger button. The relay must be located as close as possible to the passenger's ESP electric motor (if there is no closer) or before the entrance to the closer (after the closer it is impossible, since the electromagnetic noise detector will not work and will turn until it burns out!), that is, as close as possible to the consumer ! If voltage is applied to the winding at pin 85, then output pin 30 is disconnected from pin 88 and connected to pin 87. Pin 86 of the winding is connected to minus (ground). Use only these 5-pin power relays!

Use only such relays!

The power contacts are always marked as 30 (output), 87 (input when control is applied to the winding) and 88 (normally closed input). The wires to them must be used as thick and as short as possible.

Relay 90.3747 - in a plastic case with a mounting flange; Relay 113.3747 or 75.3777 - in a metal case with a mounting flange; When using low-current multiplex (trigger) buttons, connect all ESP motors only through a relay! When using a conventional door closer, relays are also needed, since they are not in the long-press closer block and all the current flows through the buttons and wires from them. If the closer has its own relays and they are used for both short and long presses, then separate relays are not needed.

Parallel connection (only for power buttons)

Since with a serial connection you still can’t do without a relay, you can make a button duplication circuit in parallel by decoupling the main button from the backup button through two 5-contact relays: the wires from the main button next to the driver’s ESP motor go directly to the 88th contact of the relay and from pin 30 directly to the engine, and long wires from the backup button go to pin 85 of the relay winding, and the relay feeds a powerful plus to the passenger’s ESP engine. With a parallel one, there is no need for a relay on the main (passenger) button (the wires are short here), and we thereby eliminate unnecessary clicking of the relay when the main button on the passenger door is pressed. But still, even for power buttons, it is better to use a serial connection so that the contacts in the buttons do not burn. Moreover, for non-power low-current (trigger) buttons, in this case you will definitely have to use 2 more extra relays to relieve the load on the passenger button (therefore, a serial connection is always used for trigger buttons).

Connection diagram for multiplex (low-current) ESP button

ESP connection diagram when the multiplex button closes the contacts to ground

Dimensions of the installation location for the ESP “AVAR” buttons

Terminals of the power window power button block for the diagram

Glass closer Pandora DWM-210

What it gives: - full glass travel in one short press (“one touch”) - BUT DOES NOT WORK ON 2 GLASSES AT THE SAME TIME (since the module has only one sensor for electromagnetic noise of the motor, current and time); — stopping the glass in any position by pressing again in any direction; — automatic stop of the glass when it encounters an obstacle in the window opening; — automatic shutdown of ESP motors when current is exceeded; — automatic closing of windows when arming the car; — automatic opening of the windows when disarming to the previous position before arming, if the parking lasted no more than 20 minutes. (The rev counter works rather conditionally and may leave the windows closed or not closed enough). The closer is installed in the driver's door.

ATTENTION! When you hold the button, the closer does not use its relays, which take the plus (via a 20A fuse) and minus from the closer, but sends all the current directly from the button to the motor, so you need to install a relay after leaving the button with long wires! Apparently this was done so that if the door closer fails, you can always close the window by simply holding the button. When you briefly press the button, the closer with its relays is activated and closes the glass. Place the relay only at the entrance to the closer from the output after the backup button! If this is not done, then due to subsidence along the long wires of the sequential connection of the buttons, the passenger window will barely move. The output of the closer must be connected directly to the motor without a relay, otherwise the detection of electromagnetic noise from the motor will not work and the closer will not work! At the output of the driver's power button, relays are not needed, since all the power wires there are short. It is ideal to install 2 door closers on each door, as is standard on foreign cars - then the AUTO mode will be on 2 doors at once in parallel, and not alternately. In addition, you will not need to pull 2 ​​extra thick wires to the motor from the driver's door to the passenger's door. If I had known right away that the Pandora DWM-210 is such a Ketai crap without its own relays in the power part of the door closer, I would have purchased and installed a Sheriff PWM-200 door closer, in which the power part is clearly separated from the control part and, moreover, you can close two windows at the same time in one touch! So it's definitely better!

Connection diagram for the passenger door button in series through a duplicate button on the driver's door. Contacts 1-6 and 7-3 are always normally closed. When you press the up button, contacts 1-6 open and 1-2 close (window rises). When you press the down button, contacts 7-3 open and 7-2 closes (window down). The 30th contact of a 5-pin relay, without supplying voltage to the winding contacts, is constantly shorted to contact 88, which gives us the necessary negative contact (works like a switch). If voltage is applied to the winding, then contact 30 is disconnected from contact 88 and connected to contact 87. Contact 86 of the winding is connected to ground.

The power windows are turned on by the module sequentially after a trigger pulse is given: first the driver's door, then the passenger door, and the next channel is turned on after the previous one has been completed. If the glass is already closed, the module will immediately switch to the next channel. Closing control is carried out by electromagnetic noise from the motor.

When the power is turned on, the closer module needs to be calibrated based on the protection current. You need to press SHORTLY to lower each glass all the way, then raise it in the same way. At the same time, the closer remembers the characteristics of the engine. The control signal for closing and opening is NEGATIVE ONLY. Control can be done from the central locking or from an additional alarm channel. It is necessary to connect the control output of the security system to the “White/Red” (windows up) and “White” (windows down) terminals of the module, respectively. The duration of the trigger pulse must be at least 500ms. (0.5 sec.). Attention: in older releases the wires of the buttons and motors were swapped - for such blocks we swap the wires numbered: 9<->2, 16<->20, 15<->10, 14<->19, 13<-> 18. On the latest Pandora (November 2011 and newer) the circuit is correct, so there is no need to swap the wires from the buttons and motors!

Closers for breaking wires for lifting ESP type Convoy CL-200 Addition dated 10/05/2014 at the request of SIBUR95

There are closers like Convoy CL-200, which are connected to the break in the lifting wire that goes to the ESP motor. There are 2 wires coming from the closer (input and output) and they are constantly closed in it. When the closer is turned on, they break and a plus + appears on the output. On GREEN, when the door closer is operating (arming), a plus appears and it goes to the engine, and a minus goes from the button (or from the relay from contact 88 to 30) to the engine. When the closer does not work, it simply passes current from BLUE to GREEN by closing its relay and that’s it.

Here the circuit differs only in that the minus of the motor is connected directly to the button (or to the relay, if the button is duplicated), and the plus also passes through the closer, and the relay is only at the INPUT of the closer, thereby not interfering with the detection of engine noise.

There is only one output wire from the closer to the engine - this is GREEN - and you cannot install a relay here since you need to determine the engine noise. Here there are already enough relays at the input to the closer on BLUE, since it will immediately go to the output on GREEN and there will be no drawdowns. But the second wire to the engine goes past the closer. There will be no losses on the closer itself! There will be small losses from the GREEN wire, which goes from the closer to the engine, since it is long and runs under the dashboard from the driver's door to the passenger's door. Important! The second relay, which goes past the closer (to the minus of the engine), needs to be installed precisely near the passenger engine, thus this second wire will be the control wire on the relay, which will switch the plus and minus right here, near the engine, eliminating drawdowns.

You can also make a button duplication circuit not in series, but in parallel on two 5-pin relays. The advantage is that a series circuit is eliminated; the relay will not click again from the main button, which is closer to the engine (with short wires), but only from the backup one. The downside is that for non-power (trigger) buttons in this case you will have to use 2 extra relays (relays 3 and 4 in the diagram).

Scheme for any number of duplicate buttons and number of doors

Excellent low-current control circuit and any number of buttons from McSystem

You can put as many buttons in parallel as you like and simultaneously press them in different directions - a short circuit is impossible from the circuit design! In a situation where we press the up button on the main button, and the down button on the backup button, it will simply stop, since both power lines will have the same potential.

The only difference between the closer is the presence of an MK between the buttons and power relays. The advantage of the circuit is that the power switching is in one place, there are no losses in the harnesses and on the buttons, there is a minimum of “pulling” of wires - 2 in total per channel + ground. In good quality, full-featured closers, the power part and control lines are implemented in the same way + the functions of “auto-detection” of active control levels are also added.

If a door closer of the PWM-200 on Sheriff type with low-current control is installed, then there is no point in these relays, since they are already mounted in the door closer. This circuit with a relay is for understanding the essence of reverse control and duplicating buttons in parallel. Power outputs both in the central locking system and in the door closers are implemented in exactly this way.

It is also advisable to connect non-polar electrolytic capacitors of 22 uF 25V to the contacts of the ESP motors in order to smooth out the range of current ripples in the power channel of the closer so that it works correctly even when the motors are worn out and does not suddenly stop the glass when opening and closing.

The usual scheme of duplicate buttons for 4 doors

Duplicate buttons must also be supplemented with two 5-pin relays (they are not shown in the diagram).

This is what the power button contacts look like - thick rectangular blades

Lada Granta ESP diagram

Power window

The vehicle configuration with electric windows contains additional bundles of wires that make up the VAZ-2114 window lift circuit. In addition, there is a control button on the front passenger door trim. On the driver's door there is a block of buttons that control all windows that have an electrical connection for the VAZ-2114 power windows.

The scheme has the following elements:

1. Mounting block.
2. Front passenger door ESP button.
3. Front passenger door lift motor.
4. Driver's door ESP electric motor.
5. Driver's door switch button.
6. Egnition lock.

The letter “A” in the diagram indicates the wires going to the power supply of the circuit, and the letter “B” indicates the wires going to the side lights.

Electric drive installation

Each set of electric windows comes with instructions that indicate the installation diagram of all drive elements, as well as a circuit diagram. It allows you to see how to connect electric windows to the vehicle's on-board network. The same instructions, which describe installing the drive on the “seven”, indicate how the holes in which the rack is attached are located relative to each other. Measure the distance using a ruler and caliper, mark the location of the holes using a marker.

Make a hole with a 5.5 mm drill inserted into a screwdriver or drill. The power window mechanism is installed through the right hole in the door. Next, align the holes in the rail with those you made in the door. All that remains is to secure the rail with 10mm bolts, which should be included in the installation kit.

FakeHeader

To be honest, I didn’t manage to start making money right away, until I understood all the mechanics of options, I lost about rubles, but as it turned out, it was a precious experience.

Conclusion: In order for the power windows to work without an ignition key, you need to jumper contacts 30 and 87 of relay K5 as in the figure below.

Often, power windows are installed only on the front doors.

Preparing for the installation of electric windows Before starting work, you must purchase all the elements for repair. How to do this is shown in the photo report. After this, be sure to clean the inside of the door so that there is no dust and dirt there. Let's move on to practice: I will not impose on you any specific method of making a jumper; I will describe only the most common ones. You can choose any of these methods that seems most simple and convenient to you.

We recommend: Electrolaboratory is

Replace the fuse with a new one. The sequence of actions is as follows: Remove the glass seal while the work is being performed.

Then I cut off the sides on two buttons, respectively, one on the left side and the other on the right. Next, install the power window in the door through the upper technological hole. The electric motor itself is part of a gearmotor, which also includes a worm gearbox.

Stories from our readers

Preparing for the installation of electric windows Before starting work, you must purchase all the elements for repair. Hi all! It starts with disconnecting the battery. Diagram of electric windows of a VAZ Electric windows are used to raise and lower the door windows and are installed on a part.

Remove the window lift mechanism through the door window. Connecting electrical equipment Now, in order for the power windows to work correctly, you need to connect them. We insert the black wire into socket 1 of the button connector. Black and white - into socket 7. Installing buttons from Granta on 2110 (the simplest diagram)

Electrical work

Remember that using a power window fuse can protect all important components from short circuits.

The electrical setup procedure looks something like this:

1. The electric motor must be supplied with voltage directly from the battery. In this case, the rotor should rotate and the entire mechanism should rise up. And you need to wait for the moment when the holes in the fasteners of the mechanism are aligned with those located on the glass carriages. Only after this can the glass be fixed.
2. If there is no wiring (the installation of ESP is not provided for by the manufacturer), then it must be laid through the technological holes that are located in the door and body. You need to run wires to the instrument panel.
3. You can place the control buttons in any convenient place, but it is best to place them in the door handle. But on domestic cars they are more often installed in the cigarette lighter area or near the handbrake.
4. All moving parts of the electric drive must be lubricated - a CV joint type compound is suitable.
5. Apply voltage to the entire system through the power window fuse and check operation.
6. If there are no faults, you can install the casing and recheck.

The article shows a wiring diagram for the power window button. It is recommended to switch all power circuits using relays to maintain the integrity of the buttons.

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To remove the old window mechanism, you must first remove the windows. It is necessary to disassemble the window regulator, remove the button and clean the contacts if they are oxidized. Pin 3 is the ground on the driver's side and the positive wire on the passenger's side. In addition, the power windows must operate when the ignition switch is on. First, the old windows need to be removed. After this, the casing is completely removed.

First, remove the handle from the standard window regulator; you need to remove the lock washer from under it.

Use only a small amount of lubricant at a time, working in a window between applications to ensure good penetration. If the wiring is not provided for the installation of ESP by the manufacturer, then it must be laid through the technological holes that are located in the door and body. Therefore, at the first stage, remove the trim from all the doors, and then begin disassembling the mechanisms. In this case, disassemble the window regulator, remove the button and clean the contacts if they are oxidized.

See you on the pages of the site. Pay attention to the wiring diagram for the power window button; check it several times to avoid mistakes. American statistics record literally dozens of accidents related to a simple situation: a baby left in a stationary car stuck its head out the window, and with some paw - front or back - accidentally pressed the window-raising button located on the armrest. Do-it-yourself Electric Window Lifter (ESP), diagram and what you need

Power rack-and-pinion windows

Rack and pinion window lifters are considered one of the most “long-lasting” compared to others. Rack-type ESPs operate on the principle of transmitting rotational motion from an electric motor to gears, with its subsequent transformation into linear movement of racks that perform lifting. In addition to reliability, window lifts of this type lift windows much faster and quieter than cable counterparts.

But, like everything in this world, rack and pinion windows are not perfect and have their drawbacks. The main disadvantage is that the gears need lubrication; without it, they very soon begin to wear out, and the power windows themselves cease to function normally. The second drawback especially concerns those devices whose manufacturers decided to “save” on metal parts and gave preference to plastic. The fact is that this material is fragile and is noticeably inferior in strength to aluminum, as a result of which the service life of such ESPs is reduced. Among other things, the rack and pinion mechanism is more bulky, so they are installed mainly in “large” car doors.

Cable-type electric windows

The main advantage of cable window lifters is their high maintainability. In the event of a malfunction, you can easily repair the mechanism, and spare parts can be found in almost any auto store

This advantage, at first glance, is insignificant, but as practice shows, most motorists choose this type of ESP without paying attention to the disadvantages of the cable mechanism. The fact is that the cable wears out or stretches over time; in addition, due to the low strength of the plastic guides, they often fail, and the electric motor is very prone to overheating

Lever type electric windows

Lever-type ESP successfully combines compact dimensions and a high degree of reliability. In such power windows, the motor turns a gear, which transmits rotation to one or more levers. In turn, the levers move the plate on which the glass is mounted. The main disadvantage of this mechanism is the uneven speed of glass movement; the higher it is, the slower the lifting will occur.

As for glass, regardless of the type of mechanism, it moves along guide channels or special rails.

Impulse and non-impulse windows?

In addition to the type of lifting mechanism, ESPs are divided into pulsed and non-pulse. The former are capable of operating in pulsed as well as normal mode. By “normal” we mean that the power window operates only when you directly press and hold your finger on the control key. The term “pulse” means a short touch, after which the glass itself will completely lower or rise.

Pulse power windows are most often equipped with five-position control keys; the lever is set in neutral mode, from which there are two speeds of lifting up and down. By moving the slider up one position, the window lifter will operate in “normal” mode, and the glass will rise exactly as long as you hold your hand on the key. The second position will allow you to fully raise or completely lower the window.

Apr 14, 2015

Removing a standard window regulator

If you plan to install rear electric windows on the car, you will have to disassemble all the doors. Therefore, at the first stage, remove the trim from all the doors, and then begin disassembling the mechanisms. Having opened access to the cable mechanism and glass fasteners, you can begin dismantling. First, push the glass all the way up and secure it with tape.

After this, unscrew all the fastening bolts that are on the glass carriages. Moreover, you need to unscrew them both on the mechanism and on the glass. After this, you can pull the entire mechanism out of the door and begin installing the electrical one.

Cost of electric windows

The cost of the set may depend on many factors, firstly, on the configuration, and secondly, on the transmission mechanism, since it can be worm, cable, chain or direct transmission.

The mechanism can either complement an existing manual mechanism, or a complete set that replaces everything related to the window regulator.

The price for a set of window regulators based on a chain is about $100 for one set (for two doors) from the manufacturer Spal DeLUXE. Considers it the most popular, affordable and high-quality set. It is easy to install on any car and has a universal mount, but the downside is that the mechanical part of the standard window regulator must be in full working order.

Manufacturers Convoy and Tiger have the same structure as Spal window regulators, the price of a set for two doors is $50. Both sets have mechanical force transmission on the chain, thus reducing the load on the entire mechanism and increasing service life.

The set of window lifters CF-5003 from the Challenger manufacturer is designed for 4 glasses, the cost is $100-120, but the downside is that it is based on transmitting force using a cable; after a while, such a mechanism breaks down and requires replacing the cable.

Standard windows

On domestic cars of the “classic” family, only manual power windows were installed. For example, the first “sevens” had rack and pinion ones, and the “nines” and “kopecks” had cable ones. Why were such mechanisms installed? It’s just that domestic designers tried to reduce the cost of the car, so for the sake of economy, devices with plastic gears were installed. And they fail quite quickly.

In the early 90s, the designers who developed the “sevens” realized their mistake and began installing cable-operated windows on the cars, but the drive was still manual. The peculiarity of such structures is that they are repairable. If in rack-and-pinion gears when a plastic gear breaks, the entire mechanism needs to be replaced (and it is very difficult to find it on sale), then if the cable system malfunctions, it is more than possible to carry out repairs.

The principle of operation of all mechanisms (both cable and rack and pinion) is the same - the system on which the glass is attached rotates with a handle. Depending on the type of window lifter, either the gear moves along a toothed vertical rack, or the cable is tensioned.

Adviсe

Let's give some advice.

In addition to calculating the load on the equipment in a specific connection, it is important to correctly select the wires that match the resistance in the circuit. Preference can be given to acoustic wires, which give the purest sound at the output, or to ordinary wires with R not lower than 4 ohms. To avoid damage and short circuit, the polarity of the contacts + to - should be strictly observed. When you turn on the radio for the first time to check, the volume should be minimal

If the sound is distorted, the equipment should be turned off immediately. This effect occurs when the polarity of the connections is not observed, which will have to be corrected.

Video of replacing the vacuum brake booster of a VAZ 2110

Backup video on how to replace the vacuum brake booster of a VAZ 2110:

Welcome! Vacuum brake booster - designed to make the brake pedal much easier to press, it only works when the engine is running, but when the engine is turned off, the vacuum booster will not work, all this is due to the fact that when the engine starts, the air filter housing begins to suck in air from the environment and it enters the intake manifold, air is taken from the manifold a little and goes into the vacuum chamber and therefore it starts to work only when the engine starts.

Note! To replace the brake booster, you will need: A set of all kinds of wrenches, as well as a couple of screwdrivers, and also for this task, a socket head and a wrench will be very convenient!

Where is the vacuum brake booster located? It is screwed to the car body with four nuts, or rather not the itself, but its bracket, the vacuum booster itself is secured to this bracket with two nuts, but they are easiest to remove as an assembly, i.e. unscrew the four nuts that secure the bracket to the body and then remove them, and when the vacuum booster with the bracket is in your hands, you will need to unscrew the two nuts and separate them from each other, but we will talk about this later in this article, a little lower .

When do you need to change the vacuum brake booster? If the brake booster fails, a hiss may appear when you press the brake pedal, and the speed may also go up and then down, in addition, the brake pedal will become difficult to press (This is equivalent to the fact that the car is turned off) basically this is there are all the symptoms that indicate that the vacuum booster has failed, it does not always happen that they all appear together in the car, but a couple of them will still appear when the vacuum booster becomes unusable (the main ones most likely, namely, tight brake pedal and floating speed).

Note! By the way, the vacuum booster can be checked for serviceability as follows: With the engine off, press the brake pedal 5 times and when the last press is made, hold the pedal to the floor, immediately after which start the car, if the pedal falls a little, this will indicate that that the vacuum booster is fully operational!

Installation of electric windows on a VAZ 2106

The main goal pursued when installing electric windows is comfortable control of the door windows. In addition, you do not need to be distracted from the road by turning the handles. Electric windows, which are currently produced for classic Zhiguli cars, are characterized by fairly high reliability, the possibility of self-installation and ease of control from a button. In addition, the mechanism can work in conjunction with the security system, allowing you to automatically close the windows when the car is armed.

Which ones to choose

Power windows can be installed in several ways:

1. With the installation of an electric motor without any major modifications. This method is simpler and less expensive. However, there is a possibility of motor failure due to overheating.
2. With installation of a separate kit. Despite the higher cost of such equipment, it is still justified by the reliability of the system during operation.

The most popular electric window lifters for the VAZ 2106 and other “classics” are rack-and-pinion mechanisms such as “FORWARD”. One of the main elements of the unit is the rack along which the gearmotor with gear moves. The latter are mounted on a metal carriage, to which the glass is fixed, and as a result of the rotation of the electric motor, the entire mechanism is set in motion. The set of the device in question consists of the following list:

• installation instructions;
• two electric windows;
• wiring harness;
• two switches;
• decorative plugs for holes.

Electric window kit contains everything needed for installation

How to install

To install the mechanism in question, in addition to the set of equipment itself, you will need:

• a set of keys;
• flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
• wires;
• circuit breakers;
• fastening elements.

Many car owners power their window lift motors from the cigarette lighter, which is simply convenient. If for some reason this option does not suit you, the wire will have to be routed under the hood to the battery. The device control buttons are also installed at the discretion of the owner: installation is possible either on the door, for example, in the armrest, or in the area of ​​the gear shift knob or other convenient place.

We install electric windows on the “six” as follows:

1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. We lift the glass and secure it with tape, which will prevent it from falling when removing the old mechanism.
3. We dismantle the mechanical device.
4. We attach the adapter plate to the power window at a downward angle so that the glass lowers completely.
5. According to the instructions, we mark and drill holes on the door for mounting the gearmotor.
6. We fix the mechanism to the door.
7. We lower the glass and attach it to the plate through the corresponding holes.
8. We temporarily connect power to the electric motor and try to raise/lower the window. If everything works, install the buttons in the selected places, lay and connect the wires to them, as well as to the cigarette lighter.
9. We install the trim, and then the plug, closing the hole under the handle of the mechanical window lifter.

Video: installation of electric windows on the “six”

Initially, mechanical windows were installed on the VAZ “Six”. Today, many owners of these cars replace them with electrical devices, which not only increases the level of comfort, but also avoids periodic repairs or replacement of the manual mechanism. Malfunctions that arise with mechanical window lifters can be eliminated by almost every Zhiguli owner, as well as installing a structure with a gearmotor. To do this, a standard garage set of tools and familiarization with the step-by-step instructions will be enough.

Installation of electric windows on a VAZ

The procedure is performed in the following sequence:

1. temporarily remove the glass seal located on the inside of the door;
2. remove the glass, and then dismantle the window regulator fastening mechanism;
3. we install devices that will operate from an electric drive;
4. connect the negative terminal to the battery and check the operation of the new window regulator;
5. We install the glass in place and trim the door.

Unlike conventional mechanical devices, power windows are not equipped with traditional gear reducers, but with a special drum. The shaft of a DC electric motor is inserted into its hole located in the center. In this case, the motor is only a component of the gearmotor, on which, as we found out earlier, the speed and quality of raising and lowering the windows depends.

Installation of the lifting device is quite simple. It starts with disconnecting the battery. After this, use a curved screwdriver to unscrew 3 screws, unfasten the door trim latches and remove the door pocket. Using a thin screwdriver, pry off the handle (latch) of the window lifter - the tip of the tool is inserted into the recess between the latch and the socket.

The handle itself is removed. At the next stage, the car door opening handle is dismantled. To do this, use a screwdriver to pry the handle cover and remove it. Now use a screwdriver to remove the 2 fastening screws that were hidden by the cover plate. After this, the handle can be removed without much difficulty. Using a screwdriver, you can also remove the power window button, which serves to lock the door.

After removing 6 pistons, the trim covering the car mirror adjustment mechanism is also removed. As a result, it remains easy to dismantle the door trim. Armed with a 10mm wrench, unscrew the 2 bolts that hold the auto glass clips. Next, 2 nuts securing the lifting mechanism, nuts of the upper and lower fastenings, and 3 nuts securing the lifting mechanism are unscrewed in sequence.

Upon completion of the described stage, it is time to remove the lower guide pin of the lifting device from the door panel. To facilitate and simplify such an operation, the upper pin of the guide must be bent using a screwdriver. Now the entire lifting mechanism can be safely removed through the resulting opening in the door frame.

Programming and adjustment: features

After the unit is installed, you need to program the power windows. The unit registered in the ECU memory will work more efficiently. Training window regulators depends on the vehicle they are installed on, so there is no universal instruction for this process.

Let's look at an example of how to register an electronic signature using the example of a Ford Focus car:

1. First, you need to press the ES control button and wait until the glass in the door rises all the way.
2. Next, press the same button again and hold it in this position for several seconds.
3. Now you need to lower the window; to do this, press the corresponding button until the electric valve lowers all the way. When the glass is in its lowest position, release the button.
4. Then you will need to raise the glass again until it is in its highest position.
5. After that, simply lower the window and try to raise it in automatic mode by pressing the button once rather than holding it down. If these steps do not help you, then repeat the entire process again. It should be noted that if this procedure is carried out on Focus 2 cars assembled in Russia, then such an operation will make it possible to train the electronic control system if the car is equipped with all four power windows. If your car only has 2 ES, then this algorithm will not work.

Connecting power windows VAZ-2109

Owners of a VAZ 2109 car can replace power windows with electric windows. On 2109 cars, electric windows can be connected via standard wiring, which already has everything provided for connecting an ESP.

This circuit is used to connect ESP on more “rich” configurations of the nine and it is advisable to use it when connecting independently. Below are diagrams for connecting an ESP with fuse blocks of new and old models.

Wiring diagram for power windows on a VAZ 2109 with an old-style mounting block (17.3722):

• 1 - Mounting block
• 2 - Ignition relay
• 3 — Ignition switch
• 4 — Right door electric window motor
• 5 — Left door electric window motor
• 6 - Right door power window switch
• 7 - Left door power window switch
• K7 - Power window power relay
• A - To terminal “30” of the generator
• B - To the wiring harness block connected to the heater lever illumination display
• B - to the heater lever illumination display
• G - conventional numbering of plugs in the gear motor block

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Installation and connection diagram for VAZ 2109 window regulators: step-by-step instructions with photos

1. Before starting work, you must turn off the power supply to the vehicle's on-board network from the battery. Or we separately turn off the power circuits for the cigarette lighter and the backlight of the instrument panel and buttons, because The power supply wiring for the power windows will be connected to these circuits in the future.
2. Remove the door trim. It can be removed quite easily, but it is better to stock up on mounting pins.
3. First of all, we dismantle the mechanism of the standard manual window lifter, fixing the glass (for example, using office tape) in a position that provides access to the place where it is attached to the lifting mechanism.
4. Unscrew the bolts securing the door glass to the standard window lifter mechanism.
5. We dismantle the guide of the standard window lifter mechanism (trapezium). Unscrew the bottom nut:
6. Two nuts in the middle:
7. Top nut:
8. The guide is free, now all that remains is to unscrew the three nuts securing our window lifter in the area of ​​the rotation handle.
9. We take out the entire door window lifter mechanism. To do this, we bring the lower pin of the guide into the hole in the door (see photo).
10. By pressing with a screwdriver, we remove the upper fastening of the guide.
11. Done, the window lift mechanism is disconnected. We take it out of the door cavity.
12. That's it, the standard mechanism has been dismantled, let's start installing a new one. The new mechanism is attached using standard fasteners; you don’t have to drill anything new. We place the window lifter mechanism into the inner cavity of the door through the largest technological hole in an “assembled” form (otherwise it won’t fit), as if in the “open” position of the glass.
13. We fasten the mechanism inside the door using two studs, which we insert into two holes that previously held the middle part of the guide of the standard VAZ 2109 window lifter. We combine them and screw on the nuts.
14. The next task is to combine the mounts on the window lift linkage system with the mount on the glass. This can be done by supplying power to the power window motor contacts from an external power source, for example, any working car battery.
15. When the lift mechanism is combined with the strip on the glass, we connect them using the bolts from the kit.
16. It is advisable to lubricate the rubbing parts thoroughly.
17. The mechanical part is complete, let's move on to the electrical part.
18. We estimate the route for wiring from the door from the electric motor of the window lift drive to the installation location of the buttons - activators. The standard place for buttons in the high panel of the VAZ 2109 is two plugs to the right of the cigarette lighter, and we install them there. The hardest part is running the wiring from the door into the rack and then out of the rack under the dash. For this purpose, there are technological holes in the rack. You may need to use a special probe. The wiring is done with a wire with a cross-section of at least 1 mm. sq. We lay the wires in such a way that they do not touch any moving parts of the door or the ESP mechanism itself. We will take power for the electric windows from the cigarette lighter. We make electrical connections according to the following diagram: When the circuit is assembled, it is necessary to connect the battery power and check the correct operation of our system. We turn on the side lights and check the correct operation of the backlight of the ESP activator keys. If the backlight does not work, swap the sockets on the contacts of the keys, indicated in the diagram as 3 and 6. You can install the power windows in the standard way, here are two diagrams: Connection diagram for power windows on a VAZ 2109 with mounting block 17.3722 (until 1998) Connection diagram for power windows on VAZ 2109 with mounting block 2114-3722010-60, 2114-3722010-10 and 2114-3722010-18 (new model)

You can read more about the types of mounting blocks for front-wheel drive VAZs here.

We check the functionality of the window regulators. The glass should move smoothly, without jamming or jerking, and should not come out of the guides. To facilitate the movement of glass in the seal, it can be treated with silicone grease. All that remains is to reinstall the door trim. That's it, the installation of the window lifters is complete, let's enjoy the completed modification!

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